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Cadillac Deville Starting / Stalling Problems

2

Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Crank Position Sensors.
  • I have experienced a similar stalling problem to the OP. The car drops out of idle intermittently while in D, stopped at traffic lights. The stall is very quick and silent - no chugging or revving. I had a dead battery - drained because the running light relay had gone bad and left the lights on. So the mechanic fixed the relay and charged up the battery, and told me very confidently that my problem was fixed. I questioned his wisdom at the time, and I was (unfortunately) vindicated. As others have said after their cars were "fixed," I drove it again for a few days, then the problem re-occurred. I am told by an engineer that this is very unlikely to be a sensor problem, because no check engine light or codes. The IAC valve is the most likely culprit, so it needs to be removed and cleaned, and I will clean the throttle body at the same time. If this solves the problem, I will reply in this thread to let you all know.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Crank Position Sensors shut the car down so fast it doesn't have time to set the check engine light code, in some cases.
  • quick64quick64 Posts: 1
    I had similar problems with no start on my son deville took it to a machanic shop and to caddy dealer they couldnt figure it out. Check your fuse panel under the steering wheel area, fuse #'s 20 and 21 or 21 and 22 control your injectors. 1 of them may be blown, that was th problem with ours. There is usually a spare fuse in I think #10. Let me know if this helped.

    Ken
  • I am not a mechanic, but my profession does involve loads of troubleshooting on complex systems. It does not make any sense whatsoever that a car which only stalls while idling stationary or at low coasting speeds would have a problem with the crank sensors, especially when no code comes up on the computer. One time could be an anomaly, a few times could be unusual, but repeated stalling without any indication of an electronic problem would point to a problem and solution which are purely mechanical. I'm not trying to be arrogant here, but it is a huge waste of resources to go around replacing crank sensors on the off chance that they are actually causing the problem.

    That said, I took off the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve, which is a small but expensive cylinder fastened by two torx screws above the throttle body. I cleaned the valve by spraying loads of electrical parts cleaner on it. At the same time, I cleaned the throttle body. There is an online manual on how to do this here:
    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/167181-tb-iac-idle-air-c- ontrol-valve.html

    The poster who created that guide to cleaning the IAC valve had Phillips screws in his newer model, but check it first and make sure you have Torx bits/drivers if that's the sort of screws on your Cadi. Note that you should disconnect the battery and unplug the controller wires when working on this type of stuff, and use the appropriate cleaner. I wonder whether MAF sensor cleaner would work fine both for the IAC valve and the MAF sensor, but my local store was out of it, so I didn't try or even look into it. I hate having to buy 10 different kinds of cleaners if 2 or 3 will suffice. The important part is not to get water or other corrosive stuff on the coils of the IAC valve.

    Since cleaning the valve, my car has not stalled even once, I have no problems starting or idling, and I could not be happier with its performance. It even idles at least 25 RPM lower.

    The IAC valve is only open while the car is idling. If the car never stalls with yor foot on the gas, this is the possible source of your problems. If you are stalling during acceleration, or experiencing rough acceleration (or similar issues), then the culprit could be the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve. The solution is the same - take off the EGR valve and clean it. It's considerably harder to access and remove, though. I've never done it, just read about it. When I have the time, I will clean it as a bit of preventive maintenance.

    If you don't feel comfortable doing this stuff yourself, at least suggest these issues to your mechanic before agreeing blindly to replace sensors that have not even caused a check engine code. I am an inexperienced, low-level mechanic who was able to do the job with $5 worth of cleaner, an old toothbrush, and an hour and a half of my time, including a run to the auto parts store.

    One more thing - these valves can fail as well, and you can check to see if they are functioning, but if you don't know how to do that, at least make sure to try cleaning it before paying loads of $$ to replace the part. The movement of the valve is sort of like a solenoid. It has to be actuated electrically, meaning that you cannot test it manually without having it hooked up to a power source (the controller wires).

    I hope my experience and my post are helpful to those who are having similar problems.
  • troundatrounda Posts: 5
    dont see any codes has plenty of fuel at the fuel rail think its crank sensors told it has 2 sensors exactly where are they located
  • I think that the response by bolivar "motor died" is wrong, since the window did go down.
    I just had the same thing happen to my '98: The driver's window went down, but not back up. The other 3 window switches all work fine. It turned out that the switch failed. I pulled the switch assembly out & tried to clean the switch contacts, but N.G. The Cadillac dealer wanted >$175 for the switch assembly (they are PROUD of their prices), but Advance Auto was able to get one from the OEM manufacturer for ~$100.
    NOTE: Both Cadillac and my local garage said that the book calls for 90 minutes labor to replace the switch (probably claiming to have to take the door apart). I just pulled the entire assembly (including the side mirror switches) up from the armrest, unplugged the cable, unplugged the switch assembly, and then plugged the new switch assembly in. It took me a total of 4 minutes, and I did it in the dark with just the interior light on!
    Hope this helps....
  • web6web6 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 DeVille which started giving stalling problems at stoplight idle around 100K miles, now at 103K. Mechanics could not find any problems, so we replaced the IAC and EGR valves ($900) but still have the problem. Now getting hard to start. Any other solutions? No stalling at speed, only at idle, and only after warmed up. Stall is sudden, no rough idle. I hope yours stays fixed.
  • rich_crich_c Posts: 2
    I have an '89 DeVille with 77,000 (actual) miles. 1½ years ago, I had a problem starting it after driving about 5 miles, then parking for a few hours. I waited about 15 minutes, then it started immediately. All was fine for about 2 weeks, then it did the same thing. Waited about 10 minutes, and it started right up. Happened about 2 more times, took it to my mechanic, where he changed a "module". Everything was then fine for about 6 months. Took it back, he replaced the module again, and all was fine for 4-5 months. It did the same thing again, but my mechanic said the part supplier "checked" the returned module, and declared it was "fine". Now they won't replace it unless I pay for a new one. Any ideas?
  • Hi,All,
    I'm new to this forum. I'm looking at a 1997 Deville for sale very inexpensive. The catch: The current owner said it was running great and then the digital dash went blank (off) and the engine quit. The car will not crank or anything. He has only one key and thinks it might be the computer chip in the key. Is this possible or is it possibly a real risky deal? I do not know how many miles it has on it yet, but it looks good. Thanks, George
  • My '89 Coupe de Ville with 77,000 miles apparently has a blown head gasket. (It tested positive for hydrocarbons in the coolant. 85!) I'm told to either get a rebuilt or a used engine. Think I'm throwing good money after bad? Is there no "easy" way to take the heads off and replace the head gasket? It's obviously not like the good 'ol days when you could do it in your garage on Saturday morning. I can't seem to find anyone that wants to tackle the job. Everyone says $1500 to $2000, or more! Any suggestions?
  • i have checked the battery....it has a brand new starter. wont make a noise when u turn the key over.....please help me its a 1992 cadillac deville
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    First thing to check is both battery cables. Check where both are bolted down, both ends. Check that there is not extensive corrosion INSIDE the rubber insulation. A cable can rot away inside there where it cannot be seen.

    Next place would be the security system. I think this year had a lot of problems with a small wire inside, or at the bottom, of the steering column that breaks. This is the wire that takes the signal from sensing the small 'pellet' in the key to the system that controls the security system.
  • Will this work on a 96 4.6 deville also? keeps saying service emissions, rough idle but runs good.
  • i have a 2001 dts 78,000 miles serviced regularly at dealership, noticed lately idle is low at start up sometimes, within a month car refused to start twice because idle was at about 400 to 500. sometimes while driving idle will be high around 1500 to 2000 with foot off gas pedal and u can feel it pulling at a complete stop. sometimes car runs fine with no problem. check engine light came on and the codes were 506 and 507. ive cleaned throttle body but not iac also was wondering if it was a vacuum leak could the idle fluctuate both low and high idle sometimes??? please help with any suggestions. thank u very much
  • when I try to start I get a message, "Starting disabled, wait 3 minutes". Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Is this the chip in the key or the computer going out or something else.
  • Hello gang. I have been trying to get an answer to this problem for about a month now from all over. My 2000 Deville (Base) will not crank. Everything works, battry new, replace key cylinder, crank sensor A & B, ignition switch, starter and starter relay, and check all connections and grounds (to the best of my knowledge). There appears to be a break down between the starter and gound. If you connect a separate ground from body to starter the engine will turn over slowly. If you run the additional ground to the body, it barely turns the engine over I used jumper cables and also tried at the battery ground. The only codes were P0335, P0340, P0385, which all point to to crank and cam sensor curcuit, all of which seem to have tested fine. Even used a scan tool not a Tech 2 (loaded with updated software, except for the GM high priced subscriptions) a friend has, but could not get a crank request. Any help would greatly be appreciated. I do have the factory service manuals. :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You've thrown a lot of parts at this problem without much success. I think it's about time to tow it to a dealer.

    A problem with my wife's 2005 Deville - I like to bring up all the displays occasionally. The voltage was continusly bouncing between about 13 and 15.5 volts. Staying on any voltage only a few seconds.

    What I found was the negative battery cable, under the read seat, grounds to the body there, right next to the battery. It was a little loose, plus the red paint (car color) was under the cable. I removed the bolt, ground the paint off with a Dremel tool, and scraped the cable end, etc. This totally stopped the voltage bounce.

    If you haven't done it, you sure need to check this battery ground back there!
  • i ws told that the solenoid in the tranny of my 2000 deville needs replacing. will that cause a leak around the seals?how much for the repair
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    First off, I don't think a solnoid problem would be related to a leak problem.

    There are 3 solnoids in a Northstar's tryanny.

    There are A and B shift solnoids. There are simple to replace with only the pan being removed.

    There is the solnoid that does the 'lockup' for the top gear in the tranny. You cannot get to it by just dropping the pan. The motor and tranny usually are pulled out of the car to get to it. This is known as the $40 part buried $2,000 deep in the transmission....

    There is a diffferent error code set for these different solnoid failures.
  • clewislclewisl Posts: 1
    The body control module is located in the truck attached to the upper back seat. you must remove the cover to get to it. They are expensive new, but mine went bad and I found one at a salvage yard for $35.00 which works great. I hope this info helps you clewisl
  • sounds like what happend 2 me iac & intake needed cleaned & had bad vaccum leak ruber boot intake gasket had a 2inch slit in it on the bottom back side. sucked alot of air. $185 fixed problem went away thank god!! o forgot replaced converter 2 cloged up gave me alot more power. my car is a 2002 deville.
  • 1998 Cadillac Deville Wont start, new key dosent workby cadillacman98Jan 30, 2012 (11:00 am)

    I lost my keys to my 1998 cadillac deville, I had the dealer make me new keys but the ignition had been changed and key did not work, I found a copy of my original key i lost but does not have a Chip so i had a locksmith make a new key like my old key using the chip the dealer made me. But the car still says starting system disabled after a few seconds, then it says remove key, wait 3 minutes, wait 2 minutes, wait 1 minute, inster key, start car. but only elctrical turns on, i cant hear the starter or anything then it says the same thing remove key, waith 3 minutes..I dont know what to do. I have bought two keys , from dealer and locksmith
  • 1998 Cadillac Deville Wont start, new key dosent workby cadillacman98Jan 30, 2012 (11:00 am)

    I lost my keys to my 1998 cadillac deville, I had the dealer make me new keys but the ignition had been changed and key did not work, I found a copy of my original key i lost but does not have a Chip so i had a locksmith make a new key like my old key using the chip the dealer made me. But the car still says starting system disabled after a few seconds, then it says remove key, wait 3 minutes, wait 2 minutes, wait 1 minute, inster key, start car. but only elctrical turns on, i cant hear the starter or anything then it says the same thing remove key, waith 3 minutes..I dont know what to do. I have bought two keys , from dealer and locksmith
  • 1998 Cadillac Deville Wont start, new key dosent workby cadillacman98Jan 30, 2012 (11:00 am)

    I lost my keys to my 1998 cadillac deville, I had the dealer make me new keys but the ignition had been changed and key did not work, I found a copy of my original key i lost but does not have a Chip so i had a locksmith make a new key like my old key using the chip the dealer made me. But the car still says starting system disabled after a few seconds, then it says remove key, wait 3 minutes, wait 2 minutes, wait 1 minute, inster key, start car. but only elctrical turns on, i cant hear the starter or anything then it says the same thing remove key, waith 3 minutes..I dont know what to do. I have bought two keys , from dealer and locksmith
  • 1998 Cadillac Deville Wont start, new key dosent workby cadillacman98Jan 30, 2012 (11:00 am)

    I lost my keys to my 1998 cadillac deville, I had the dealer make me new keys but the ignition had been changed and key did not work, I found a copy of my original key i lost but does not have a Chip so i had a locksmith make a new key like my old key using the chip the dealer made me. But the car still says starting system disabled after a few seconds, then it says remove key, wait 3 minutes, wait 2 minutes, wait 1 minute, inster key, start car. but only elctrical turns on, i cant hear the starter or anything then it says the same thing remove key, waith 3 minutes..I dont know what to do. I have bought two keys , from dealer and locksmith
  • My '95 deville stalled 1/2hr after running. Is it gas or spark? I was ready to perform expensive parts replacement but if it were spark it should be backfiring/missing, right? I ran 3/8" hose from PCV fresh air inlet to driver window & hosed starting fluid @ stall...guess what!!! (ran out of starting fluid). stopped to get more fluid & fuel, opened gas cap..WHOOOSH. Suction when cap opened, hmmm. LEFT FUEL CAP LOOSE. Haven't had a problem since. (200+miles).
    carlwintheiser@yahoo.com
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    My 2000 DHS with just 40,000 miles on it was occasionally stalling out at stop signs and rarely when driving at moderate speeds.

    I had the dealership replace both crankshaft position sensors and the tech also suggested replacing the fuel filter. I did both.

    1100 miles later, the car is running perfectly and hopefully it will continue to do so.
  • zuransky2zuransky2 Posts: 1
    It was missing and if you babied the gas you could keep it running bout 45-50 mph. I had a friend look at it. They said dist cap had a hole in it. So I changed the dist cap,coil,rotor button,plugs and wires. It started up ran bout 5-6sec and died. Now it will turn over but will not start. I took fuel filter off its fine. I replaced it anyways. Any thoughts,help ideas would be great!
  • I got in and drove to a store, when I came out the car wouldn't start. After waiting a while, I was able to start the car and drive home. I let the engine cool down for a couple of hours went back out to start it and it did the same thing. I sat there for a while turning the key into the on position for a few seconds and then trying to crank it again. After about 3 minutes, the engine turned over and started just fine. I took it for a drive, came home, shut the engine off, and tried to crank it over again. It worked just fine, I couldn't repeat the problem. I replaced the battery a few months ago and just checked it again and all of the connections. Everything there seems to be okay. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?
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