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I own a 2000, and i can't figure it out.
Issue- select station- up, and down functions properly.
Modual doen not light up when lights are engaged.
How do I disassemble wheel for replacement?
Where do I locate part (modual)?
Dealer only?
Discribe replacement process-am mechanically inclined (LOL)? :shades:
I previously had my Devilles garaged and wondered how much more wear and tear leaving the 2002 outside will take on the car. The climate here is very mild with temperatures going below freezing only about 40 days of the winter and almost never going below 20
degrees at night. Our summers here are also mild with temperatures rarely going above 70 degrees.
The car was bought to drive in rainy weather and short errands. My expectation in buying the car and leaving it outside was that it will not take to much extra wear and tear given the climate described above.
If there are other Deville owners that have their cars parked outside it would be helpful to have tips on how to deal with leaving this car out in the elements or any extra maintenance tips to keep car at maximum performance.
All comments and suggestions appreciated.
Yea, I know, you can buy headlight modules on eBay much cheaper. If I remember, I think I just epoxyed the lens back in place, the one that was completely loose. I may have pried the other one off and epoxyed it back also.
That white 97 is long gone.
But the wife continued to bi*cH about wanting a Cadillac. So, we now have a 2005. And she is looking at a 2008..... I don't know what will ever make her happy??????
Each car has dropped about 2mpg, highway and city milage, since our state went to ethenol in the gas.
Ethenol is a total failure, but it is totally political. And none of the media will give coverage to the problems with its usage. So, we are stuck with it.
Any 'savings' of gasoline is totally wiped out because of the reduced milage.
Does anyone know how to fix any of these problems or have any idea wat is causing them?
It's had a coolant leak in the 'crossover' pipe (now sure of this name, it's a solid connector on left side of the motor (actual rear of the motor) that moves coolant between the heads. Took 3 or 4 days to fix that.
The heat had never been right, but last year it was totally cold. This took 3 trips to repair. I think 3 actuator door motors and the complete dash control unit were replaced. It still doesn't heat like it should. Previous Devilles would start throwing heat in a few blocks - this one is slow to heat up.
One tire pressure monitor was bad, but I think this is because the car has one miss-matched wheel/tire on it - one from a salvage probably. Seems like there was something else, but don't remember.
Ah, pulled the file. Front impact sensor bad. Left outside mirror directional signal out, replaced and painted entire mirror (this was bad when we bought the car). Oh, looks like a previous pressure monitor was replaced. Loose switch on memory seats.
Cadillac history indicates before we bought it, it had a leaking water pump replaced, resurfaced all 4 disk and replaced front pads and put one new tire on it (driven low on air and ruined). I think this was done at dealership after they bought at auction and before we bought. I've had to replace a tire. I think whoever leased the car ignored tire pressures.
It had 37,000 when we bought it in 9/2007. Has about 53,000 now.
I consider this about average for a Cadillac. I have an extended ($2,000+) warranty on this car because Cadillacs scare me to death, especially the Northstar head gasket problems and general electronic complication problems. But the wife wants a Cadillac. I've got a little over 2 years and 22,000 miles or so left on the warranty. When it's out, the car will be sold.
Probably have to buy another for the wife, but I don't want to keep a Cadillac without a warranty.
Offer $12,000 and buy an extended GMAC extended warranty (if available).
The GM power train coverage started in 2006, about August. It is for 5 years, 100,000 miles. I don't think that Cadillac would have this coverage.
As I said, I would look into getting a GMAC extended warranty if I bought this car.
Here is where I got mine http://www.gmoutlet.com/p&hfee.html
Black Pontiac Cadillac, Our 48th Year
3929 Admiral Peary Highway
Ebensburg, Pa. 15931
877-472-9550 Toll Free
814-472-9550 Local
814-472-4741 Fax
allen@gmoutlet.com
www.gmoutlet.com
This was cheapest place I could find in 2008. But I don't know if they will cover a 5 1/2 year old Cadillac.
Can anyone give me a clue of what the problem might be? and what it might cost to repair?
Thanks.
I have a big problem tring to get my car inspected. The computor keeps throwing O2 codes. We have replaced 2 that have been said to be the prob. One under the motor and the other a bit farther back around the area of the drivers seat.
The dash pc says to check the Emissions system. Tha air cleaner is fine and the motor is running well. It had a vaccum leak but got that fixed. We done the EGR valve. Checked the PCV also. We had a water leak problem but ended up using that liquid glass stuff. It was not blowing out the tail pipe. I thought the prob was the radiator. Replaced that , the hoses, and some belts.We cancel the pc codes drive it a bit and the light comes back on. When the light is out the AC works , but when its on it goes to "econ" and doesn't... Oh we had heater core prob too. We by passed it temporarily, tell we have other things working. Its not losing water now the temp is staying normal. Oh we also replaced the Thermostate too. Its got near 200,000 miles.
HELP I am at lose to fix this thing and can't replace a car now. the inspections been out a month now and I'm on borrowed time . Becky
You've thrown a lot of money at the problem. It might be time to find a good Cadillac mechanic and see what he can find.
But just for something else to look at - on old Northstar motor the rubber tube that goes into the intake will sometimes rot out at the bottom, where you can not see it. This is a large black tube. With addional air coming into the motor here, you will get a lean running car all the time. I think it's quite a disassembly job to repair this. But you should be able to fill around at the bottom of the tube and see if its bad.
None of the Cadillacs had/have very comfortable seats. Laugh away, but one of most comfortable seats was in a 1981 Chevette. And, my 2007 Corvette has very comfortable seats.
I just bought this car yesterday, and it came with the GM Keyless Entry Remote, but no battery. Does anyone know how to program the remote? I really want to afford paying a dealership for something I, myself, can do.
Thank you.
Seriously, is there something “simple” to do, check, or replace? I am obviously “no mechanic,” but I can hit a dash! My wife however, is much smaller and doesn’t know the “hit the dash technique” and probably better for it. Is this being 2005, is this a motor or module problem or both? If it’s the module that I’ve read about on other blogs, is that easy to replace?
By the way how do you reset the engine light? Do I need any special equipment?
Thanks
You do know how to get into Diagnoistic mode, and view error codes, and then reset them, right?
If not, you need to google other Cadillac forums. There are ones out there that tell you exactly how to manipulate the controls on your dash and get it to display any error codes that are set.
This forum does not have anything like this. How to do this takes several steps and differs for different years of CAdillacs. You should be able to google it and fine the info.
Problem areas
-Head gaskets leak which cause thousands to fix because heads have to be pulled and special threads put into alumium block. (2000 redesign of motor helped this problem a lot.)
-1997 should have a recall on ABS brake pump. Check to see this has been done.
-Solonid for 'overdrive' lockup fails, and it also cost thousands to repair because motor/tranny must be pulled to get to it.
-High oil use because the high-performance Northstar has been 'babied' and the rings carbon up. Can be reduced many times by wide open throttle application several times.
-As I said, there are a lot of electonic on the car which can fail.
With that being said i don't know if i want to totally give up on owning a Caddy, i just cant get over them haha they're beautiful. In your opinion what would be the best year/model to buy as far as being issue free? My max is $8,000
I've had, Devilles all, a 95, 97, and now 2005. My wife wants one.
The 95 had several problems. I didn't keep the 97 very long because I didn't have a warranty on it. When the 2005 was going out of the factory warranty, I bought an extended warranty. It has had a lot of things fail on it. Oh, the headlamp lens also fall off 97. I glued mine on.
I would not own one without an extended warranty.
You could offer $3,000 on that 97. Which, in my opinion, is about all it is worth. That is a 14 year old car. And you could look at it as having that other $3,000 in your pocket for potential future repairs. And, don't make an offer if you don't want to buy it, because you just might get it for $3,000.
In general, except for the head gasket and oil consumption problems, a Northstar motor is bullet proof. You can try to 'blow out the carbon' for the oil consumption, or just ignore it. Oil is cheap, even if it uses a quart every 1000 miles. A head gasket failure on a 97 - I would sell it for parts. Other than that, 150,000 miles on a Northstar is easy, mechanically. Valves, cam, pistons, etc don't wear out.
In general the transmission behind a Northstar is also bullet proof. Except for the solonids failing. It has 3 of them. The two shift ones can be reached by dropping the pan. As I said before, the lockup one has to have the motor and tranny pulled to get to it. 'A $40 part buried $2,000 deep' because of the labor to pull it.
Everything electronic could fail at any time. And look at it - everything is an electric button with a sensor or motor on the other end. Dash, radio, heat/AC, seats, rear air shocks, etc, etc, etc. And the motor and tranny mechanically are very strong, but there are sensors all over both. Crank sensors sometimes cause trouble, but these are on the outside front by the crank and are easily changed.
The sway bar linkages sometimes fail. Rear air shocks fail. But these type things go on all cars as milage accumulate.
The DTS is just the Deville under a 'new' name.
The CTS, I'm not sure. Wife wants a Cadillac, and wants a big 'tank'. The CTS is smaller, would be fine for me, but she's not very interested. Our small town lost its Cadillac dealer. Two days ago was in larger nearby city, and looked at the CTS-V. Detuned Corvette supercharged motor. 560 something HP. I don't like to test drive unless I really am interested, but I almost test drove this.
Sell the wife's Deville. Sell my Corvette. Keep my truck. Buy an automatic CTS-V 4 door. (Sticker says it has a $2,600 gas guzzler tax.) Be able to keep all/both (CTS and truck) in my garage. Wife doesn't have much interest in this, starts talking about an Escalade. Not gonna do an Escalade.