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2000-2011 Chevrolet Malibu
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Comments
The simplest way is to turn off the engine and hit the brakes :-) If you cannot turn the engine off and/or you've already burned your breaks trying to stop, then shift to neutral and coast to stop. But then a professional driver in a Malibu, no less, showed what to do if your key and shifter are also stuck (imagine that happenning!), or you don't have enough space in front of you to coast (i.e. twenty little school girls crossing the road just fifty meters ahead). You hit the emergency break (that locks the rear wheels only), and you spin the steering wheel. The car will then spin around and, hopefully, stop. Sure a dangerous move, but something to keep in mind. They also said stuck gas pedals are very rare.
And now some comic relief. The Ranger driver was a middle aged lady. They played the tape of her 911 call. The operator asked her: "Have you tried to use the emergency brake?" and the tearful reply was: "I don't know, I am a woman!" :-)
b-r-a-k-e
Sorry, sweet old lady!
An unrelated question: is it usual for people who sell certain makes and models to drive a car they do not sell? Not trying to pick on you, but I think it kind of sends a weird message, if you see your Chevy salesman driving a Jeep :-)
02 demo's fully equipped 12/ 15km are going for $14500 Cdn: rentals I would think, but that has to real value. The last batch that come in have more Km but at the same price. if your after a demo do it early for best value.
Antilock brakes are optional instead of standard for 2003 on the base version of Malibu. ABS remains standard on LS, but is now a $400 base-model option.
An all-new Malibu arrives for 2004 on the same front-drive Epsilon platform as the latest 9-3 from GM-owned Saab. Don't worry about price, though: Malibu will remain an affordable, mainstream midsize slotting just under Impala. The '04 gets more angular lines than today's vintage-1997 design, plus more room inside via slight gains in width and height. An unexpected innovation is a second 4-dr body style called Malibu Maxx. Chevy terms it an "extended sedan," but it's actually a hatchback with a 6-inch longer wheelbase than the regular Malibu, though also a similar notchback profile. Like some minivans and SUVs, Maxx features a rear seat that slides for extra rear leg room or cargo space; it can also be folded, of course. Maxx options are said to include a rear-seat sunroof, unique among midsize sedans, and a rear-seat entertainment system. The Maxx looks a smart move, as many buyers crave the room and versatility of a midsize wagon but don't like the uncool wagon image. We'll know soon enough how smart Chevy is.
The redesign is timely, as demand for the current Malibu keeps sinking despite 0-percent financing and other lures. On a year-to-year basis, Malibu sales dropped 14.8 percent in calendar 2001 and another 14.5 percent in the first half of '02.
Really looking forward to seeing the 04. The Opel Vectra it's based on is beautiful.
PARTS. THERE ARE MANY PARTS THAT CAN FAIL IN A CAR
JUST DRIVE IT AND DEAL WITH IT.
The rubber on the old gasket was shifted and contorted -- just not enough thickness to handle the normal stress.
Also, they should call the 2004 Chevy Classic the 'Corsica', the definitive rental car, next to the Taurus and Geo Metro!
1) Remove plastic panel from bottom door frame on front passenger side -- it's holding the edge of the rug down. There are no screws, the panel is snapped on and can be removed by hand pulling.
2) The cable connection is just under the rug where the rug meets the frame on the passenger side (right side) of the car just ahead of the door frame. I can see how someone's right foot kicking at the spot can cause the cable connection to loosen over time.
3) The connection is loose, just push together. If you want it to stay together, wrap electrical tape around the connection.
4) Tuck rug back, snap plastic panel back on. You're ready to go!
a drawing on the main page..
http://www.auto.com
I have a question about auto parts. After GM starts making new Bu's in a year, would that affect the availability of spare parts for the current Bu version?
It looks fine and the old Malibu should hit the rental lots only.
Anyway, the old Malibu is goign to be called Classic and sold to fleets only next fall
I'm curious as to what you have experienced that makes you feel that way.
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Brake Rotor - Lateral Runout Correction System
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-001
Date: February, 2001
INFORMATION
Subject:
Brake Align(R) System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction
Models:
2001 and Prior Passenger Cars
This bulletin is being issued to update General Motors position on correcting brake rotor lateral runout (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002 for additional brake rotor service procedures).
Important : Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs. Refer to those specific repairs in applicable service bulletins. Make sure other possible sources of brake pulsation, such as ABS pedal feedback, have been addressed before checking rotor runout.
Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have .050 mm (.002 in) or less of lateral runout. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation. Until now, the only acceptable methods to correct brake rotor runout were to index or replace the rotor or to refinish the rotor using an on-vehicle brake lathe.
GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral runout on new or refinished rotors. This new method is called Brake Align(R)*. It will allow the technician to meet the .050 mm (.002 in) or less requirement for lateral runout by installing a specially selected, tapered correction plate between the rotor and the hub. The Brake Align(R) Correction system does NOT require the use of an on-vehicle brake lathe to correct for lateral runout.
.......etc........
I bought a used 98 Malibu two weeks ago and the AM radio didn't work, but I removed the passenger side rug and found that the cable connection had come loose as you had stated. It took very little time to fix and tape up so it won't happen again.
The fm seemed to work ok. Also on this vehicle
there is an antenna mounted on the inside drivers side window. An antenna is also on the rear passenger side (near the trunk) Is this the FM antenna or is it a add on for a cell phone? The car manual does not talk about it. Thanks for the advice as I saved money by not having to take it to the shop.
On my 'Bu, there is only one antenna cable. It runs along the right side floorboard into the trunk then up into the fixed mast which is mounted next to the trunk (as you described for your rear passenger side antenna).
I don't have anything on my inside driver's side window as you describe. My driver's door just has a speaker, power windows, power locks, power mirrors, etc.
I looked in my service manual regarding additional antenna's and found nothing -- just the one that I mentioned.
I don't know anything about cell phone external antenna's. Good luck!
Drove new Impala with 3.8 and had the salesman drive the bu. He wonders why the 99 4 cyl seems quicker than his 2003 Impala demo. Some cars are put together correctly and others not so lucky. Gonna keep this for a long time. When brake rotors are due, $23 apiece and they come off in your hands with the brake calipers removed. Two bolts. Doesn't get better than that. $470 brake job at dealer. I think not...
Having roller rockers and chain on the 4 seems like a great idea. Also sorry to hear the new engines are 2.2. Wonder why the down size! 2.4 been around a long time.
The 2.2 eco-tec is easier,you dont have to remove the cover.
Thanks
1) I was driving on I-78 in Jersey in the left lane on Thanksgiving (night time). The roadway was fairly clear so I decided to put on my cruise control. I hit the 'on' button and then fished around the steerign wheel trying ot find the "Set" button. I think I hit the "set" button (it was dark and there are no lights on these buttons). The car went dead. I stepped on the accelerator and nothing happened. Then the power steering and lights (dashboard and exterior) went. Luckily, there was no one inthe lane next to me and I was able to get tot he shoulder and stop the car. I then shut off everything (and cleaned off my seat) and re-started the car. It was like nothing happened. It started fine and the car drove fine afterwards and since. Can anyone explain what may have happened? My thought is I may have overloaded a fuse but everything seems to work now.
2) At times, during high speed braking (above 55 mph), I get some 'chattering' in the brakes. It has not happened with low speed braking. Is this a sign of the rotors warping?
Just wanted to get as muxh information so Ican relay it to the service manger next itme I bring in my car.
Otherwise my 2001 Malibu with 22,000 miles is going along just fine. Although I must warn anyone who needs to have the seat way back for driving, don't buy one of those big comfortable car seats for your child and put it behind you. They tend ot restrict how far back you can adjust your seat. Luckiliy we will be able to turn the car seat around in a couple of months.
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Bulletin No.: 73-32-10
Date: April, 1998
Subject:
Low Pitch Rattle, Clunk and/or Squeak Noise Coming from Front End of Vehicle During Low Speeds (Replace Lower Control Arms or Install Rack and Pinion Steering Gear)
Models:
1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu
1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Condition
Some owners may comment on a low pitch rattle, clunk and/or squeak noise coming from the front of the vehicle while turning and/or driving straight ahead at low speeds, between 10-18 mph, (16-29 km/h). This noise condition is most apparent when driving over rough/spalled concrete, sharp bumps or broken pavement. A squeak noise may also be present during front end "jounce" conditions.
Cause
This condition may be due to vibrations from the suspension damping the rough roads that are being transmitted to the steering gear assembly.
Correction
Upon proper inspection, per the procedure in Section 3 - Steering/Suspension Diagnosis in the Service Manual, one of two conditions may exist:
1. Front Suspension Noise (rattle, clunk and/or squeak) heard while driving straight ahead and/or front end "jounce".
^ Replace both lower control arms, P/N 22606709 (left) and P/N 22606710 (right).
2. Front Suspension Noise (low pitch rattle and/or clunk) heard while turning.
^ Install a new rack and pinion steering gear assembly, P/N 26073200.
Important :The new steering gear may result in a slight increase in steering effort while parking.
Important :Before changing lower control arms and/or steering gear, exhaust all other possible sources of the noise, using the Service Manual procedure. Also inspect for the following:
^ Damaged suspension components
^ Worn control arm bushings
^ Worn strut dampener or mounting
^ Rack bearing preload (Sec: 3B1A8)
^ Loose stabilizer shaft
^ Loose wheel nuts or covers
^ Spring improperly positioned
^ Loose tie rod ends
^ Loose steering gear mounting
^ Intermediate shaft boot mispositioned
^ Power steering hose or line grounding out
Parts Information
P/N Description
26073200 Kit - Steering Gear
22606709 Lower Control Arm Assembly - LH
22606710 Lower Control Arm Assembly - RH
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
E9720 Use published labor
operation time
As for the brakes -- you have the classic symptom of rotor lateral runout, yes warped. These Malibus are very bad about this problem. Can be caused by improper wheel lug nut torquing or the new rotor wasn't within the lateral runout spec.
If a new rotor isn't within spec, it must either be: 1) machined using an on-car lathe, or 2) shimmed with Brake Align(r).
Wagner pad have given me 50,000 with no detectable wear or dust on the mag wheels on my 99. Great site with lots of good advice. I learn something every time I sign on.
I should clarify that it is not every high speed stop but even one chattering stop is too many.
Thanks for the info.
The car still runs good, real good. Although, my brakes are probably the most expensive thing on the dang car. Seems like every three months i have to get my rotors turned. Is that normal for them to warp so easyly, or do i just have a cheep rotors.
Any reputable dealer will attach a Chassis Ear to find the noise source. Heck, I got my own. You hook clamps all over the underside. Each clamp is like a microphone. The closest to the sound is loudest. A couple times like this will zero in on the sound.
Unfortunately, your bad experience is more common that it should be. Like so many car owners, I got so sick of being burned by dealers that I started doing my own car repairs. Once in a while I try out a dealer to see if anything has changed. And I get burned again.
The following TSBs may be helpful.
--------------------
Suspension - Front/Rear Squawking Noise
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 01-03-08-003A
Date: February, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Squawk Noise from Front and/or Rear Suspension
(Lubricate Stabilizer Bushings)
Models:
1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am
This is being revised to include additional graphics and torque specifications.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-03-08-003 (Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a squawk noise from the front and/or rear suspension while driving.
Cause
The noise may be due to a slip/stick condition between the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings.
Correction
Follow the service procedure below and lubricate the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings with Special Lubricant High Temperature, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
Service Procedure for Front Suspension
1. Raise and support the vehicle allowing the front suspension to hang free. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
2. Remove the stabilizer shaft links. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (SI2000 Document ID # 635842) in the Front Suspension sub-section of the Service Manual.
3. Support the rear of the crossmember with an adjustable jack stand.
4. Remove the rear bolts from the crossmember.
5. Remove the lower control arm rear bolts.
6. Lower the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
7. Remove the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of the vehicle.
8. Remove the bolts (1) from the insulator brackets (2) attaching the stabilizer shaft (3) to the crossmember (4).
9. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
10. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
11. Install the insulator brackets (2) and the bolts (1) to the stabilizer shaft (3).
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 69 N.m (51 lb ft).
12. Install the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of the vehicle.
13. Raise the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
Important :Cross member nuts (1) and (6) are captured nuts.
14. Install the rear lower control arm bolts (3) through the crossmember.
Tighten
Tighten the rear lower control arm bolts (3) to 245 Nm (180 lb ft).
15. Install the rear crossmember bolts (2). Tighten
Tighten the rear cross member bolts (2) to 70 N.m (52 lb ft).
16. Lower the vehicle and road test.
Service Procedure for Rear Suspension.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
2. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) and the nuts (6) from the stabilizer shaft (2).
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
4. Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
5. Install the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) to the stabilizer shaft (2) and the nuts (6).
Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator bracket nuts to 53 N~m (39 lb ft).
6. Lower the vehicle and road test.
--------------------------
Front Suspension - Rattle Noise Diagnosis
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 01-03-08-002
Date: August, 2001
INFORMATION
Subject:
Front Suspension Clunk/Rattle Noise Diagnosis
Models:
1998-2001 Chevrolet Malibu (Built After 10/97)
1998-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2001 Oldsmobile Alero
1999-2001 Pontiac Grand Am
A number of front suspension lower control arms have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Input regarding these parts indicates replacement corrected front suspension related clunk/rattle type noise concerns. Analysis of these returned components indicates that they were manufactured to design intent and should have performed satisfactorily in the vehicle. It is recommended that when a front lower control arm is suspected to be the cause of a front suspension noise concern, the technician perform the following fastener tightening procedure prior to control arm replacement.
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface at curb height (supported by the tires).
2. Loosen the four lower control arm to front suspension crossmember attaching bolts.
Tighten
- Tighten the two lower control arm to suspension crossmember front attaching bolts to 60 N.m (45 lb ft) plus 120°rotation.
- Tighten the two lower control arm to suspension crossmember rear attaching bolts to 100 N.m (74 lb ft) plus 180°rotation.
3. Road test vehicle to determine if the noise condition has been corrected.
Plus if the Impala has 205hp, they absolutely COULDN'T let the Malibu have more! LOL!
But hey, this 'new' pushrod '3500' motor is supposed to have TWO camshafts isn't it?
Just my luck found a new clunk while trying to fix a different clunk with the dealer. While test driving the car after having warranty work done we put the car into neutral to quiet the engine to make sure the original clunk was gone. As we slowed in neutral to a stop there was a sudden loud clunk from the transmission. It sounded like a gear change. The tech. in the car had no idea what it was and had never heard it before, although how often is a car in neutral when driving down the road? The car does it consistently only when in neutral and slowing to a stop. The GM tech. doesn't want to touch the thing and is putting a call into GM on Monday to get their opinion. They are worried it might be early stage transmission failure. I honestly can't believe it. The last month with this car has been a disaster. Anyway, wondering if anyone else had this interesting problem arise and what, if anything, did you do about it?