Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Glove compartment rattles over bumpy road.
My driver's door buzzes intermittantly (even with the radio off-it's not from the radio). Does anybody else have the same problem(s)? Please help!
Rick
I've had Buick evaluate it to no avail.
longo32 "Synthetic motor oil" Mar 23, 2002 3:29pm
I am hanging around this board for 2 years, starting several months before I bought my Regal GS. Also frequent the Gran Prix board, because GS and GTP, basically, are the same. There was an old board about Regal problems; also cannot remember anybody mentioning the SC.
So, GM and Eaton probably know a couple of things how to build superchargers.
However, I believe that extra care would not hurt. Possibly, replacing the supercharger oil regularly will let the part to live extra 100k miles or so. The oil costs about $5.50 according to longo32, and replacing it does not look difficult.
Anyway, for peace of mind I have the extended warranty to save a $2700+ repair bill if it does go bad. Although someone posted awhile back that the SC has a 7/70 warranty.
I contiune to question the fact that you NEVER change the oil in it though. Perhaps an Eaton tech can help us understand.
I would rather spend 10-15 bucks for oil, syringe, and a short hose to get the bad oil out versus a new S/C or an expensive repair bill. Yeah the S/C have 7/70 warranty, but why take a chance.
Since we are on oil changing, I am from the old school of maintanence where you change the trans fluid at every 25,000 mi. I know Dexron III is suppose to go up to 100,000 mi, but has any one changed the trans fluid at 25,000 or somewhere in that range?? I would rather spend 60 bucks now for a fluid replacement then a new trans later. The new Hydramatics are not cheap, especially the one in the S/C vehicles with the heavy duty gearboxes. I don't know the price, and I don't want to find out either what a replacement is.
Indeed the SC does have a 7/70 warranty. But for all you knuckleheads out there, the cheapest insurance for a car is frequent oil changes (that also goes for the sc). I've had cars that went a healthy 300,000+ with no oil-related problems because I change the oil every 3,000 - 3,500 miles (no matter city or highway driving). Next week I'm taking my 2000 GS in for service to change a B pillar molding (seems the sun warps these moldings.. at least here in L.A.). At this service, I'm going to change the supercharger oil. I may be nuts doing so after 20,000 miles on the odometer, but for $100, its cheap insurance for a car I like a bunch and plan on putting "a few more" miles on the odometer.
Just my opinion...
SO, I am considering using a pump to pump out the fluid on the Buick and replace it around 25-30,000. You can tell a lot though by just looking at the fluid and smelling it so depending on driving 50-100,000 maybe okay
I am going to change my SC oil this weekend, its a little over due at 50k, but better late than never. I also change my oil every 3000 to 3500 miles. Has any one had a problem with there seat heaters? My drivers side went out and its not a fuse as far as I can tell.
Is it $100..my dealer says they do not do...but then again they are a incompetent bunch of folks.
let us know how you make out.
I questioned further and she said the lubricants and oils of today are so far advanced that it is not necessary to change like your engine oil. Similar, I guess, to the Dextron III trans fluid and the coolant flush intervals. Hmm, how confident am I in this?
She aksed me if I had the Regal, GP or Bonneville. She did say that most of the sales reps at Eaton like the Regal over the other GM vehicles using the S/C.
When my Malibu had transmission service about a year ago, the filter cost $80. The Firestone mechanic was surprised by high price.
To change the filter, pan must be dropped, right? It can explain why GM does not use the drain plugs.
The dealer now has my car and is changing the s/c oil for $102.50. In about a year when I take my car in for the last 'under warranty' service, I'll try and have the transmission & brake fluid flushed and replaced. Just have to figure out a way to get this done under warranty ; ). To replace the B-pillar costs about $30 though for myself, its a warranty issue.
.
Footnote: If your car is still under warranty, take a look at your (black) front spoiler/air dam. Although flexible, it can crack under routine driving conditions. Have it replaced (if damaged and ) under warranty. Otherwise, its an expensive piece and an expensive repair (I was told over $500).
However, some part prices are crasy. The Malibu wheel cover cost $114.
Would you tear open your sealed wheel bearings to change the grease anyways?
I also don't see why manufacturers recommendations on oil change intervals are so hard to swallow either. I mean, how do you determine where to draw the line? You change at 3,000 miles because you always have? How do you know changes at 1,000 wouldn't be better, or 10,000? Manufacturers use science and testing to determine their recommendations, so I'm not sure why people think intuition is more accurate. GM isn't paying for your oil change, so why would they care to extend the interval artificialy? Do people buy cars based on the maintainence schedule? The Corvette has a maximum oil-change interval of 15,000 miles if you drive it just right. I doubt they did that so that Corvettes will only last 100,000 miles before hitting the scrap heap. That is one nameplate that has too much going for it to screw up.
I can understand being worried about your car, and I could see changing the oil early under special circumstances like when the car is new or if you think something leaked into it or if you drove in unusual conditions, but under normal driving I think the recommendations are quite reasonable. I can also understand wanting to buy quality parts, oils, and filters. I could also understand if you did some research (like oil sampling) at 3,000 and also at 7,500 to see how much difference it makes. I just don't understand the "that's how I've always done it" reasoning. Just my thoughts...
However, there is a report by a serious person about the SC oil he drained at about 50k miles. The liquid was in bad condition. Bad smell, and a lot of metal particles.
So, at least some owners can have oil-related problems. Or possibly the bad oil points on related problems, e.g. a bad bearing at the SC nose.
Given the oil costs $5.50, and draining it with syringe looks simple, I'd rather change it...
a bottle from my dealer to top up the oil & used 3/4 of it just to top up!. I think the bottle only
contains about 4 or 5 oz.
Ed
longo32 "Synthetic motor oil" Mar 29, 2002 11:08pm
Better ask him, not me. Looks as you need 8 oz (2 bottles) of the oil.
As to the SC oil, I think I will change mine at next oil change, seems simple enough and see what it looks like at 25,000 miles.
I thought about A/C condensation, but it happened in December. (We don't use A/C in December in New England)
OK, I give up. Why was my floor all wet?
I had the same problem 3 visits to fix..had carpet replaced due to the time frame the water was in there. The first two visits they allegedly fixed a body seam that was not welded at the factory. Kept finding water though...On the third visit they claimed that the seam was not leaking so I asked them to pull the TSB on Water in Passenger Compartment...this is where the evaporator is allowing water to not drain out the car but in thar car. The solution was to install an elbow hose on the drain......
I notice now that the A/C water escapes towards the middle of the car...So Far DRY......
Question though. It was obviously not at the top of the plug and probably had 1/4 to 1/2 inch of space to add more oil. How do you know when it is full. Is it supposed to leak out of the fill plug as in a manual tranmission gear oil change??? How do you know when some needs to be added of if changed when you have added enough back in??
I will change it anyway once I receive some replies to those that have done this,
My regal is a 2001 LS (as much as i would have loved the GS, i'd probably get pulled over too often)
anyway, the car was built in June 2001, and the leak happened in December 2001. i froze my but off trying to sopp up the water (that was after i melted the ice)
It's only happened once in the 10 months i've owned the car.
I guess I'll call the local dealership tomorrow.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Thanks for the info.
longo32, who recently changed the SC oil, frequents there. He have a Park Avenue Ultra.
I seldom drive the car, mostly my wife, and she is very smooth. However, when I drive and it rains, I slip the wheels once or twice almost every trip. I have a lead foot. The tracton control lamp illuminates sometimes on dash, but not every time, and I never feel it to kick in.
However, I never tried to spin intentionally, even more for as long as 3 seconds...
1. What kind of discount can I expect on a demo car with 4,900 miles.
2. Is it reasonable to expect that discount off the "invoice price" ? In my mind, I start with invoice and work up on a new car purchase ( down in this case ).
3. How is this car to drive....what do folks like & dislike about the car ?
4. I am thinking about getting an extended warranty to take the 3yr/36k manufacturers warranty to 5yr/60k miles.
Thanks in advance....I will check back tonight & tomorrow.
Yes, a quiet car, the tires, not the best in the world.
No real squeaks or rattle although I am not sure about the front glove compartment one that many seem to have, Not sure if I have that at times. No water leaks of any kind.
Leather seats are fine, long distance is okay ( I drive a lot of long trips) , leather though is cold in the winter and hot in the summer, I may actually prefer cloth.
This is a highway car, suspension is not the greatest for curvy roads, it handles ave to poor on corners at higher speeds, may be partly the tires too. Great highway car. Mileage is 19-22 around town but on the highway I get 30-31. The overdrive is great, at 70 mph the tach is at 2000 rpms, pretty low. Great engine, smooth power. Uses about 1/2 quart of oil in 7,500 miles.
It does not have the built in auto garage door opener button which most new cars have today. It does not have a drain plug for the transmission pan, GMs just don't it seems. Oil filter a little difficult to get to but at least it is vertical. Battery will be tough to change, support rod has to be removed to replace battery.
I don't like the way the wipers are designed. You cannot get them up to clean the windshield when they are in the down position due to the hood being in the way. Unless they changed that it is a pain. Passenger air filter really easy to change, engine air filter easy but had difficulty opening canister/box. Mechanical issues, well, at 750 miles they had to re-torque the oil pan bolts as it was leaking oil badly, all the bolts were loose according to the dealer. at 19,000 brakes were chattering, well, had been for a while, finally got it in they replaced all 4 rotors
(why, in lieu of turning I don't know) but solved the problem. lug nut came off one week later though.
This is a low maint vehicle basically, 50,000 severe trans fluid change, 100,000 normal. Coolant is 5 years or 150,000. Oil change indicator light seems to work pretty well. Basically a proven engine, timing chain not a belt.. Quality I would say is pretty good.
I am getting ready to turn in that lease and buy a new Buick. I was not going to get another Buick after the problems that I have had with this car, however, the rebates ( $2002 and $750 ) plus the GM dollars that I have saved up make it worth a second look. If I can get the dealer to come down somewhere near the invoice price, I should get a good deal. My main worries are reliability over 6-7 years and resale/trade-in value.
Reliability: With 20K on my car, I have had theEGR replaced under warranty (after just a few hundred miles on the odometer). I have had the dreaded glove box rattle (not that bad but a slight annoyance) and for whatever odd reason, I have had the interior B pillar plastic molding warp twice! I have the part on order and the third piece will be installed next week (takes a minute installation). Mechanically, the 3800 is a proven engine as is the transmission. As for quality, I'd give the car a 8 out of 10. Calculate the purchase price (value) into the equation, and the car is a perfect 10. Its tough to find another car that gives so much for (relatively) so little.
Now, if the car only had a GPS system...
I now drive a TOTALLY different car.....I now have more control over torque steer on launches. I no longer hear the tires howling for help on a fast turn. Handling and ride have become so much more crisp and tight. GREAT change!
I wonder if you'd feel the same if you replaced the GoodYear's with NEW GoodYears!
I'm not trying to instigate anything. Just that fresh tires from practically any manufacturer (even Pep Boys!) would show great handling improvement over the worn out tires they replace.
The dealer gave me $100 over invoice, plus rebates of
another $3,252. The car was sold once I took it for a test drive. I STILL cannot believe how much standard equipment comes on the car.
I see in the Wall Street Journal today that some car makers are increasing the sticker price with various bumped up fees ( prep, options, etc ) and THEN coming out with a rebate.....circle jerk stuff, but this cannot be anything new.
I also purchased the GM 5yr/60k bumper to bumper warranty.
On the glove box rattle...I have a 1999 Buick Century with the same problem....funny how these "defects" run through the car lines.
However as I remember the BRAND new Goodyears on my Regal, I noticed from day one that those tires simply just did not really have it (based on my driving habit), just the way the car behaved with them left something to be desired and I know fellow owners have shared same concerns.
I noticed this also on my previous Goodyear tire cars 94 Grand Prix and 89 Regal GS each time I went with another brand the car and a step above the stock tires the car was better off.