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Buick Regal



  • erwisneskierwisneski Member Posts: 18
    Most are simple up front. The biggest difficulty are the ones in back and especially the one that is right next to the O2 sensor. Also I will say if it is anything like mine the wires will be tuff to get off the first time. I would advise you to change the wires at the same time. If you do choose to do the wires, do one at a time so you don't mix up the fireing order. Just compare the lengths. Best of luck!
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyMember Posts: 6,222
    You got screwed. My Buick dealership wanted $189 to change out all 6 plugs.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • tvollytvolly Member Posts: 2
    thanks a bunch for the info
  • abutcherabutcher Member Posts: 33
    Sounds like a heater core leak.
  • abutcherabutcher Member Posts: 33
    edited May 2010
    So my check engine light comes on after my fuel gage goes to 3/4 or less on my 2001 Regal, non supercharged 3.8 liter. It throws a code P0440 which is evaporative emission control system. If I keep the tank full to 3/4 full, it eventually shuts off and stays off. I tried a new gas cap but it didn't fix the problem.

    Any idea what it could be? Thanks!
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyMember Posts: 6,222
    Just a guess.. low pressure from fuel pump.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • lwoodmanlwoodman Member Posts: 1
    I know you posted this a long time ago,. but did you ever find out the cause to your heater and a/c problem? I am having the same problem with my Buick, a 2000 Regal LSE. The heater and a/c work fine for about the first 40 minutes, then they stop working. The car has 162K miles on it and I have had this problem for about 3 or 4 years. Other than this problem, the car has been a true gem and have been very happy with it. It runs like the day I bought it.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Member Posts: 26,595
    What do you find when you stop the car, raise the hood, and analyze?

    Is the compressor clutch engaged and the compressor turning?
    Is the small tube from the compressor to the condensor HOT?
    Is the large tube coming back from the evaporator in the car COLD?

    If the compressor is turning and the tubes cold and hot appropriately, is the air inside the car coming out the dash vents or has it switched to the defroster? IF the car uses vacuum to control the air flow in the HVAC box, the vacuum may be lost due to back rubber connections under the hood, or due to the vacuum reservoir being cracked, etc.

    I do not know if the HVAC box uses all electric actuators or if it does have vacuum. I do know the leSabres up to 1999 had electric to control the blend doors and used vacuum elsewhere. The vacuum connector on the corner of the programmer box on the heater would soften with age and the openings would suck shut. Usually the one for the blue vacuum line going to the door turning off the defroster and forcing air out the dash vent was the one first noticed. No vacuum, the cooled air comes out the defroster.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 36plymouth36plymouth Member Posts: 1
    to change that starter you have to remove the fans, loosen the ac compressor,coolant overflow tank and if you have a helper have them help hold the compressor and lines as far out of the way as you can. remove the starter bolts one from the front side then the other from the rear of the cross member. with some effort you should then be able to get it out under the ac and trans coolant lines. I've bone this and its a tight fit in and out.
    ps. remember to replace the shims! good luck
  • jimd1966jimd1966 Member Posts: 4
    When I turn my heat or air on the blower motor just vibrates and makes noise. It will vibrate 2 to 3 times and then shuts off. When it shuts off it sounds like theres is a vent being closed or something to that extent. There isn't any air coming out when the motor does this and it happened all of a sudden . Any help would be appreciated with this as being winter and not able to defrost my windshield and dont have heat except from it coming as I'm driving down the road. One more thing, when I turn the blower motor on it affects the steering as it seems tighter like manual steering.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyMember Posts: 6,222
    I have a 1999 Buick Regal LS with 108k miles. About a week ago, when coming to a stoplight, after hard acceleration, the engine started stumbling, with rpm's jumping down. After about 30 seconds of this the CEL came on. Ran car 20 seconds more and symptoms disappeared.

    I had the code read at AutoZone, which indicated a fouled EGR valve. Took it to the shop. They said they'd need to run diagnostics at $89. Fine. They come back say the EGR is "clean as a whistle", that there was probably some carbon in the EGR valve that didn't allow a proper vacuum seal, and that it passed through. Everything fine they say.

    Today, same symptoms. Slowing down after moderate acceleration (in a hurry) the engine started stumbling a bit, like it may die. Happened for 45 seconds again, then cleared up. So question is, more carbon in EGR valve...or something else? I did put some Gumout cleaning solution in gas tank a couple weeks before this happened, could this have loosened up some gunk? Thanks.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Member Posts: 26,595
    My car gave occasional symptoms of a really bad idle coming to stoplights. A little gas sped up the motor enough to smooth it out and the symptoms were gone. Happened a couple months later. Then a week later. I tried cleaning the EGR valve pintle. Didn't help.

    Then I cleaned the interior of the valve where the gases go in using a small brush and a liquid cleaner. I may have used gasoline or mineral spirits. Do not turn valve upside down so that solvent runs into the part that has the motors that move things. I soaked it sitting in a small bowl of the stuff to soak the interior.

    But I kept brushing using a plastic bristle brush and brass wire small brush from Harbor Freight. The rod that moves through the tight seal area inside that goes to the motors gets bound up with carbon.

    If you have 3/8 inch drive tool set that is metric your can undo the two nuts. Unsnap the electric connection. And the thing lifts up. The gasket almost always is okay. Just replace same position it's in.

    Thing has worked perfectly since the thorough cleaning on my 1998 leSabre with 180,000.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • antoose1antoose1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello just wondering if you fixed the problem? my car is doing the samething. please let me no.Thank you.
  • k8ysek8yse Member Posts: 4
    Change the fuel pressure regulator. My pressure seemed
    rock solid but it is vacuum controlled and there was apparently
    a vacuum leak in the unit which caused the stalling. Once replaced,
    no more stalling.
  • lowet123lowet123 Member Posts: 1
    Did you resolve your intermittent starting problem with a new battery cable, if not did you find another cause?
  • jimd1966jimd1966 Member Posts: 4
    Trying to figure this out. Have water coming from out of my blower motor every time I turn my AC on. Took blower out and a small thing that looked like an evaporator but not sure. still cant figure out where all this water is coming from. I have even gone as far as putting something up underneath to catch water but it doesnt help. Everytime I turn a corner more water comes out and afraid it's going to short something out or cause some serious damage./
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Member Posts: 26,595
    Most likely problem is your drain tube for the water that condenses off the cold AC coils. There's a rubber tube that comes through the floor and is at the bottom of the firewall behind the motor. If you push something up into that tube, it most likely will let go of a flood of water that's been blocked by goop in the tube.

    The rubber tube is likely 4-6 inches long and has some kind of lips that close to keep air from coming in and that keeps water from coming out until there's a bit of water in the tube. When that weight gets great enough, the lips are forced open and water comes out. It should not back up to the level of the inside of the HVAC box.

    Because you directly tie the water to the case holding the AC and heater coils, that would be my primary guess.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252

    I apologize for the water problem you are experiencing. Please keep us posted when the issue has been taken care of.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • brad88brad88 Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem i pulled everthing out of the car and replaced it by anyway just to be simple move the waterpump first go to fasnal to get bolts to fit the water pump holes. then replace the crankshaft position center ur car was doing exactly what mine did
  • jimd1966jimd1966 Member Posts: 4
    Sorry it took so long to respond I will try that. Sounds like I will be jacking the car up to find it. Hope it solves the issue, I will keep you posted. Thank you so much for your advice.
  • jme4jme4 Member Posts: 3
    replaced the starter but the car still won't start on it's own just clicks... checked the battery and all terminal connections and all look good and tight. Will start no problem when hooked to another vehicle don't know if this vehicle has an inline sensor, or a fusable link to the stater!! computer scan shows no trouble codes... Any ideas would be helpful!!!
  • jme4jme4 Member Posts: 3
    it's an 03 Buick regal...
  • ricksautoricksauto Member Posts: 1
    check your solenoid
  • jimd1966jimd1966 Member Posts: 4
    Hopefully got everything fixed. Found the drain hose on firewall and stuck wire up into tube and water started coming out even though I didn't have anything else come out that was obstructing the water flow. I will find out tomorrow if it's fixed. would like to thank imidazol97
    for your help and advice.
  • den544den544 Member Posts: 4
    Check the tie rod ends for wear. The driverside one on my Regal wore out at 50K miles. Replacing it stopped the shimmy.
  • j_d1j_d1 Member Posts: 1
    Have you replaced the EGR valve?
  • oldharoldoldharold Member Posts: 1
    Changing leaky elbows on belt tensioner. I had to remove fan from radiator, PIA job. Buick cleverly forgot to put a drain plug in the radiator.
    When re assembling rinsed K&M filter with tap water. Did not dry properly, when re installed it (apparently) dripped water onto ECM/PCM. I tried drying but until it sat over night it didn't dry out. I did replace MAP first but that had no effect.
    So for all those with stalling, rough idle, surging or just shutting off, I would check & clean the connections at the ECM/PCM as it is in the air box in the from of the car.
  • shadetreefixshadetreefix Member Posts: 2
    My son has a 94 Buick Regal with a 3.8 litre engine. Recently, the car stopped running (while on the road). He had it towed to work. When he tried again, it started and ran for a day. Then it quit again. Troubleshooting revealed that there was no spark. He replaced the crank sensor and ignition module, but this didn't fix the problem. He suspects that there might be a problem with the ignition key chip/computer, but he's not sure how to check this, and doesn't want to throw any more parts at the problem. He tried reading the trouble code using the "check engine" light, but no trouble codes flashed (perhaps he's not initiating the sequence properly - any help here?). Two questions: 1. Does anyone have any ideas/experience with this kind of problem? 2. If the key chip circuit fails, will it prevent the engine from cranking, or just from starting? Any ideas/suggestions would be welcome. Thank you.

  • shadetreefixshadetreefix Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 94 Buick Regal . Some times the  vehicle anti  theft system will fail due to a wire in the start key switch . Research the vats system on how to bypass this 
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Member Posts: 26,595
    edited January 2018
    VATS system just keeps the car from cranking and prevents the injectors from working IIRC.
    My understanding is that it's only checked for cranking at start. It does NOT turn off car after
    the car is running. Often they'll turn the security light on and then off while driving as a hint the
    system is not working right. But eventually you'll turn the key and nothing but a flashing light on
    the dash saying security for 3-4 minutes.

    When mine in 98 Buick failed, I could turn the key slowly going from step to step and let it have time
    to read the chip in the key and think before I turned to START and it would work.

    Also might be worn contacts in the ignition switch--not the lock cylinder part--the little box that
    has all the contacts for ignition power and crank and power to accessories. It's moved by a little
    wire rod from the key lock. It's on top of the steering column just behind the gauges and can be
    access with small hands or/and dropping the column slightly. Check on the power lead to the
    ISC to determine if you're getting power there when the car quits. Usually a CPS takes about
    30 minutes to cool and the magnetic field to strengthen to activate the trigger signals. The ignition
    switch often breaks contact when hitting a bump or turning and it moves the worn/corroded
    contacts that are moved everytime the car has been started for 23 years. The brass wears.

    I would suspect the CPS which was already replaced. Is this one that's adjustable in positioning and
    you're supposed to use a "tool" to get it in the right position between the two rings on the backside of
    the harmonic balancer? Or was that the 93 that was the last year for that?

    I'd take a close look at the connectors for the CPS along with the wires looking for breaks inside the wire
    due to flexing and look at the wiring coming to the ISC module that's under the coils.

    CPS doesn't give trouble codes usually. I believe the 94 requires a code reader and IIRC the connection is a hybrid between the current one and the earliest. I believe there was a special cable to adapt. Search for 94 buick pontiac and reading codes cables, etc..

    I used to have a bookmark link to a troubleshooting sequence for the ISC that allowed determining if the two separate rings on the harmonic balancer were getting the signals through to the ISC, the 3 and the 18 IIRC. This can be done with a volt ohmmeter as long as the engine cranks. Good for checking a fickle CPS or replacement along with the wiring and corrosion inside the contacts in the connector.

    IF I find that I'll post the link.

    EDIT: I found it.
    It looks like it's been updated from the pictures I remembered.

    Good luck.


    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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