Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Buick Regal



  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    Since I was driving thru the Mojave Desert, I had a few gallons of water and other 'emergency necessities' should the need arise.

    Of course, that only weighed 10 lbs - the other 60 lbs was my girlfriends luggage (I kept my toothbrush and change of underwear in the glove box) :)

    As for that RFV TSB BIGUNIT67 mentions, my only comments are that after 23,000 miles on my two year old GS, only the EGR valve (replaced a few days after buying the car) and exterior thermometer (replaced twice and soon three times) have been troublesome. This car has been 'sweet'.

    Word of advice to all: When taking your car in for service, make sure the service tech writes ALL YOUR CONCERNS down on paper including the work that was eventually performed. All this in the event you'll have a recurring problem that may be taken care of AFTER the warranty period and you'll have documentation to back-up your claim.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    I had the lovely opportunity to change the battery on my 98 GS last weekend. I had to twist it sideways and up and still had to pry it out. Anyway the dealer quoted me $120 to change the battery. I got the Sams club special at $60 so I guess I can go buy a few cases of beer with the savings. Just in time for football season too. Go Dolphins!
  • y2112yzy2112yz Posts: 19
    Most battery changes on GM vehicles are a pain. There is a long black metal crossmember bar that needs to be removed, and in the battery tray there is a black rubber stopper sort of thing that hold the battery from bouncing around. Don't forget about the bug juice tank. I had to do this on my old 92 Lumina and it is was a hassle. Mwdream, I feel your pain man. I looked under the hood of my 2001 GS and looks like the same mess accept just 9 years newer.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    There are a few differences between the $120 and the $60 battery. Besides a fee to install the AC Delco battery is more expensive to begin with and can only be purchased from a dealer. Further, Ac Delcos are maintenance free, all others say so but have caps that can be pried off to the check level. Plus, the cold cranking amps CCA on the Delco I will bet are higher then the Sams you replaced it with. I went out of my way to replace a battery with a delco in my toyota (cost my $86 at a dealer and I installed it) whereas I could have gotten a similar (about 100 CCAs less though) at an Advanced Auto or Auto Zone for $56 . The previous Delco lasted 5 years, (still strong but I just wanted the piece of mind) I tried to get one for my Ford but they do not make one. I believe that Delco batteries are simply better made, last longer, have more power as in CCA and are truly maintenance free.

    Just my opinion and to me worth the extra $30

    In the Ford I did go with another Advance Auto battery for $56 but the old one was only just under 4 years and I did not trust it for my daughter away at school.
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    I to just replaced my battery. The battery cost me $60 at Wallmart and has 950 cold cranking amps which is fairly high. I replaced it myself. You have remove the strut tower brace (3 bolts). Then the windsheild resevior (one nut and two clips and two wires). Then I moved the fuse box aside (one nut and it slides up out of a slot). Then remove the clip down on the battery tray (one bolt). Then you still have to lift it out at an angle. It took me about a half hour.
  • My '99 Regal GS gets only about 17 mpg in combined city/highway driving. Goes to about 22 mpg on highway alone. I admit I'm heavy on the pedal but this seems awfully low to me compared to what others are reporting on this site. The car has 70,000 miles on it and has never had a "tuneup". Any advice on what specifically might need to be done in the tuneup that might provide me with better gas mileage?
  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    I have a 98 LS and a 01 LS, and both of them get about 32 MPG highway with the cruise set at 70. I realize your GS is much more powerful, but I will share a couple of ideas. I run the tires at 35 psi. I understand that the LS has the softer suspension, but it may be okay with the GS also. The other thing I have done is switch the engine oil over to Mobil 1 synthetic oil, and the automatic transmission over to Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Good luck.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    You should be able to find ACDelco batteries at retail stores too. I agree that they seem to be better quality batteries, but I've always been able to buy mine at Trak Auto and they aren't much more expensive than competitors products. I suspect a GM dealer might not have the best prices for it. Actually, it's too bad you mentioned Advanced Auto Parts as not having them because they are buying up Trak Auto. I just hope they'll still carry the same stuff, or that I can find a new place that does.
  • jbmalikjbmalik Posts: 10
    Suggestion: If you're in the market for a Buick Regal GS, look for a 2002 or 2001 with a few miles on it. I got a 2002 Buick GS (no sunroof, no heated seats, no chrome rims - these are the only options (other than the Joseph Abboud package, which I don't like anyway) with 4400 miles on it. I paid $18,410, the original sticker was $27,500 and some change.

    Here's what else I test drove: 99 Oldsmobile Aurora ($14.5K), 2001 loaded Grand Prix GTP ($19.5K), 03 Tiburon ($19.5K, don't ask, I tried to recapture my youth but my 6'3" frame said 'no way'). The Buick was hands-down the best bang for the buck. I really wanted the Aurora but there was no warranty left, can't take the risk. Beautiful car though.

    Anyway, Fans of GM will note that the Pontiac Grand Prix has the same platform as the Regal. The ONLY advantage the Prix has over the Buick is styling. I test drove 3 GTPs, all less with 33K miles and there were more rattles and hums and cheap pieces of misaligned plastic than you could count. I REALLY wanted a Prix, but they're just not put together well. Plus their resale value is higher (more demand) so a nice used GTP will set you back more than a same mileage Buick Regal GS

    The interior materials (and, I suspect, exterior) of the Regal rivals, in my opinion, Japanese cars. My friend is paying $450/mo for a 2001 Nissan Maxima SE loaded and let me tell you, other than the sunroof and the heated seats, I really don't like his car over mine. The Buick has a more comfortable ride and feels richer to me, and I believe it is faster (we both have automatic transmissions), but to each his own. Traction control and ABS work great. Acceleration is neck-snapping, observers/passengers will be surprised w/ the car's power. You can end up doing 80 without even realizing it.

    The only quibbles I have with the car are minor. The standard wheels (not the chrome ones) look a little less masculine than the rest of the car. The rear view mirror could be larger. The fold-away driver's side mirror doesn't fold in all the way. Climate control is a little unintuitive. The multi-control stalk (which operates blinker, hi-beams, cruise control, wipers, etc.) can be a little confusing. Car is a little thirsty, expect 18mpg around town and 27 or so on highway. Driver's side window, when rolled partially down, rattles over bumps (this is the ONLY rattle I can detect in the car). Dark grey lea. interior without the sunroof can appear a little 'stark'. Factory tires (Eagle LS) suck, my next set will be Yokohamas, ranked #3 in consumer reports and $52/ea! (I forget the model name, sorry folks).

    Overall, I do love the car, esp. for the price I paid. Good luck!
  • jpstaxjpstax Posts: 250
    My wife bought a '00 GSE, so I was sold on the Regal before I recently bought a used '98 GS. I also noticed that the GTP was 1-2K higher than my GS. I agree hands down that the GS has more bang for the buck than any other family sedan. Funny thing is Impala and Monte Carlo owners are bitching because the 2004 SS models are "only getting the L-67 (3800SC) motor", instead of a V-8. They should be grateful GM is finally going to be offering this great engine to Chevy lovers.
  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    The dealer replaced this sensor under my extended warranty. It was sticking around 63 degrees on 80+ degree days. Some posts have said that dealers want $120. for this. Here's what I found out; it is a small black plastic piece mounted in the space between the radiator and the grill toward the passenger side, simply unplugs. Looks kind of like the cap for a BIC pen with blue wires attached. GM part number 10248414. Retail price $8.05. Hope this helps someone.
  • masonmimasonmi Posts: 148
    Thats an incredible price for a 2002 Buick Regal GS I couldn't find any Regals in my area which is Michigan for anywhere near that price for a 2002 most of the 2002's were 20,000 or above.
    I do have to disagree with you on the cheap peices and misaligned parts they are not only on the Pontiac's they're also on the Buick's, I have a 2002 Buick Century in which the dash area and arm rest/storage box are all plastic cheap pieces and the dash/steering area has been rattling and creaking every since I bought it, also i've tried to have the dealership fix it several times and of course I get the usual can not duplicate.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    FYI.... My Sams Club battery has 770 CCA same as the Delco and 950 cranking amps.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    I have looked in Chiltons manual and found out the entire backseat has to be removed, the side panels removed and then the top of rear shelf... all this to change a couple 6 x 9 speakers???

    You have got to be kidding me GM, what the hell were you thinking?

    Another 10 minute job, that will take over an hour. I have never heard of dismantling half your interior to change speakers. I can't believe this crap.
  • jbmalikjbmalik Posts: 10
    Masonmi: Sorry to hear you're having rattles with your Century. Assuming it's still under warranty, you should bug the hell out of your dealer/mechanic to get it right, you shouldn't have to put up with that. I am unfamiliar with the Century's interior materials, however the Regal GS has, I think, only a few pieces that are borderline-cheap (Glove box door, middle compartment door, ashtray door). The grade of plastic in the Grand Prix was FAR lower, in my opinion. No doubt GM wanted to build that car very cheaply to get the max. profit out of it. Other than Oldsmobile and Buick, I would be hesitant to buy any GM product until the interior build quality proves significantly. I think they're on the way with the Chevrolet Impala (auto critics have noticed this too).
  • jbmalikjbmalik Posts: 10
    I read earlier someone got even better sound of out of their monsoon sound system by replacing the front door speakers in their Regal with mid-priced pioneers. Has anyone else done such a speaker replacement, and if so how? (I won't bother if the dismantling of the doors becomes too troublesome). Also, does anyone have the technical stats for the system (e.g. which speakers in the Factory Regal GS are 3-way, 2-way, etc.)?
  • jbmalikjbmalik Posts: 10
    I don't know if you guys have heard of it, but 3M (and at least one other company) manufactures a clear UV-protected virtually invisible plastic that you can cut to size (or, alternatively, buy from a reseller as a pre-cut kit). You (or the dealer) install it much like window tint but it goes on the body panels/sections of your car that get the most exposure to wear and tear (e.g. the front-most part of the hood, the air dam/spoiler, the door handles, the rear view mirrors, etc.) Protects the car from sunlight, pebbles, general wear and tear, etc.. ..Has anyone installed this and if so, how laborous was the process?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    window tint, its recommended that you have a window tinter install it for you. May save you both time and money. Unless you're a DIY type of person and don't mind trial and error.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    If i had the monsoon, i might be happy, buy my 98 does not. I am changing both front and rear and adding an amplifier. It was my hope to do the rear myself and save some money, but leave it to GM to make me dismantle half my interior for what should be 5 minutes a speaker.
  • masonmimasonmi Posts: 148
    My Century is still under warranty it has just over 20,000 miles on it, i've been to 3 different Buick dealerships and neither of them can duplicate dash rattles or steering column rattles.
    I did drive a few Regals when I was test driving to buy and the Regals dash is the exact same as the Century they really didn't change much between the Century and the Regal except for engine sizes and some minor outside appearances.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    Post 1991 (Guy21): Excellent information regarding the sensor. Thanks. Can changing the sensor be done by a laymen or are there 'things' to move/remove to get to the sensor?
    Post 1997 (jbmalik): Have you tried Zaino? :)
    I hope this link works to the Town Hall discussion forum on Zaino: <<a href="/direct/view/.ee9975f/4106">gdouble "Zaino Car Polishes/Products--Your Experiences (Part 2)" Aug 10, 2002 5:26pm>
    I had a flashback to being 16, just getting my drivers license and driving my mother's two year old 1975 Impala convertible with a 400 - 4bbl V8. As I as driving up HWY 1 yesterday (along the Pacific Ocean from Santa Monica to Oxnard). I 'played' with a mint '92 Mustang 5.0. Took him on the straights but he'd always catch up on the curves. feel like a kid again :)
  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    Tom Petty (1991) Hmm, seems to match my post number. Anyway, the ambient sensor is in the wide open space between the radiator and the grill. It has one of those push-pin type fasteners, so no tools required. Good luck.
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    I just recently had a Century for a rental and the interior looked about the same as my 97 GS. Tan inserts instead of wood, same dash rattles, same rear window rattles when only part of the way down. This must have been a 2002 model as it only had 2500 miles on it.
  • lotech1lotech1 Posts: 112
    Just returned from a long trip. My 01 LS averaged 30.3 mpg (highway) which included Ozark Mountain driving, running ac, 75mph average, and +90 degree weather. In town it never dipped lower than 24.5mpg and that's good considering all the stop and go driving in Branson, MO. My wife didn't fare so well... she practically wore out the passenger side grab handle on those twisty roads :-) That Gran Touring suspension was a real treat. Entered several 35mph curves at 55mph with SUV's right on my tail. upon exiting the curves I no longer saw said SUV's in my mirrors (LOL). They should of been watching their speedo instead of yaking on those cell phones. Only problem is those blasted goodyear tires. Had them rotated and now I got a thumper on the front drivers side. Can't wait to get them off of there.
  • masonmimasonmi Posts: 148
    I like the Buick Regals as well however the build quality really has went down hill, my 2002 Buick Century has a dash board that rattles and squeaks, the plastic pieces just don't keep quiet, i've driven several cars/trucks in the past this has to be the worst for interior noise/dash noise.
  • andyeandye Posts: 4
    Just returned from an 1800 mile trip in my 2000 LS. Performed like Buick was still trying to sell it to me! Two days later the "service engine soon" light came on . Steady, not flashing. The car exhibits no other signs of a problem. I have checked the gas cap for tightness and have run the tank to almost empty before refilling it. That took several short trips and about 150 miles since the light came on. I now have about 100 miles on the fresh tank. The manual says, if its the gas, I may have to run more than one full tank through the engine. Any other suggestions before I see my mechanic?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Oil analysis on a 2000 Buick GSE 3.8L V6, Supercharged. Three samples reported, first column with OEM fill at 4365 miles, second at 12,190 miles and third at 12,947 miles. Oil and filter changed at each sample and for the last two samples the filter was also changed at about 6000 miles into the interval. Oil added in last two samples is about a quart including the filter change. No nitration or oxidation and the TBN and visc. available only for the last sample. Total engine mileage is 29,487 miles. Total sump capacity is 4 quarts 20 ounces. Oil in engine about 8 months. Filters were the Amsoil SDF 29

    Note two things on these samples. The silicon level which has dropped to normal ranges after about 20,-000 miles on the engine from a high of 173 to 18 ppm. Copper which is still too high for me but reduced considerably from 423 to 194 ppm. Note that on a per 1000 miles basis this went from 97 ppm/1000 miles to 15ppm/1000 miles., quite a decrease. Either the copper components in question are wearing very quickly and the engine will blow soon or the abnormal manufacturing of components has worn down to acceptable levels in the future. May never know. Does show the value of trend analysis and using the same oil over time to evaluate engine wear. .

    Oil used in the last two samples was Amsoil 10W30 full synthetic, not the XL series. However, based upon the TBN of just under 5, I would say I could probably go 15,000 on this oil but very doubtful it would make 25,000. I am going to stick with the 12,000 mile change on this engine, which is about 60% interstate use.
    Miles 4365 12190 12947

    iron 29 21 18
    chromium 4 4 5
    nickel <1 <1 1
    aluminum 8 7 6
    lead 14 13 16
    copper 423 306 194
    tin <1 <1 2
    silver <1 <1 <1
    titanium <1 <1 <1
    silicon 173 47 18
    boron 61 9 3
    sodium 11 7 7
    potasium 15 <10 <10
    moly <5 <5 <5
    phosphorus 1067 1283 1215
    zinc 1023 1502 1655
    calcium 233 2575 3373
    barium <10 <10 <10
    magnesium 977 457 355
    antimonty <30 <30 <30
    vanadium <1 <1 <1
    fuel % vol ? ? 1.0
    total solids .3 .3 .3
    water <10 <10 <10
    visc 100C ? ? 11.5
    SAE Grade ? ? 30
    TBN ? ? 4.99

    The lab is Analysts Inc. out of Hoffman Estates, IL. for all three samples. No oil additives used, gas additives are Amsoil PI, Schaeffer Neutra and Chevron Techron at various intervals.
  • kippy1kippy1 Posts: 2
    heads up out there to all of you who have the 3800 series one engine. Just replaced a plastic fitting that screws into the engine, underneath the intake manifold, behind the alternator bracket to which the hose from the water pump attaches (99,000+ miles, '95 gs). i was told by the parts guy, and again by a mechanic at buick that this is a very common occurrence. the [non-permissible content removed] is having to dig out the part that breaks off inside the threaded hole. this is a $10 part which is now made of metal. if you decide to replace, it is recommended that you spend a good deal of time cleaning the threads with a pick to ensure no leaks. use pipe dope on the new fitting. be sure to find and remove the old o-ring if not on old fitting. and while you,re at it, you may as well replace the hose too. (7-8 bucks).not sure if this is a problem with the series 2 and was told the sc has a different set up which does not include this part.
  • I have a 2001 regal. Took a trip to Atlantic city last week, averaged 31.5 mpg. I left in heavy rains with out using my a/c. On return trip I used the a/c. This includes stoping for about 20 tolls. Not bad milage
Sign In or Register to comment.