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Buick Regal



  • I was reading some earlier posts from way back and someone was asking about upgrading/changing speakers in their regal. In my 98 LS it was a HUGE pain in the rear to do an extreme audio makeover.

    Rear Deck speakers:
    Yes, you need to remove the entire backseat along with the rear paneling that houses the tailight. Only then can you access the 6x9 speakers even though they can be clearly seen from the trunk.

    Front Door Speakers:
    These are 5.25" i believe, and ya, the regal will make you work to remove these. You essentially have to remove all the plastic trim until you hit bare metal. Its definately easier than removing the backseat, thats for sure.

    Good news - the regal uses a double-din sized headunit so any aftermarket stereo should fit no problem.
    Bad news - getting it to fit. You have to take apart the black trim that that surrounds the radio and stretches across the whole dash. Then you need to pull back on the lower dash part ... and then the whole process becomes a mess. Do note that the space or depth behind the headunit is not sufficient, some dremel tooling is in order for a piece of metal that was hanging out back there [i think to brace the stock unit].

    Looking back at it , the regal is quite possibly the last car on the planet fit for a stereo retrofit. BUT, if you got the $$$ and can pay straightup retail prices for your equipment, go the no-hassle route and get it done by pros at Circuit city or some-place similar.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 6,023
    I've had my 1999 Buick Regal LS for 3 years this April. Thus, far I have been extremely happy with it. I've replaced the tires and the battery(normal wear), had the rotors turned once, and had a new Mass Airflow Sensor put in. Though I learned after the fact that more than likely the MAF sensor could have been cleaned instead of being replaced.

    Oh, I also did a trans. and coolant flush about 6 months after I bought it. I change the oil around 4,000 miles or 5-6 months. It now has about 72,000 miles on it. Except for a couple dings from idots in my workplace parking garage, it is still in very good shape.

    It handles like a Buick, which if fine. But, the powerful engine and comfortable ride more than make up for it. I plan on keeping another 2-3... maybe 4 years, which will put it around the 100,000 mile mark. At which point I'll probably look at the LaCrosse, Nissan Altima or maybe the Mazda 6. :)
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2008 Mercury Mariner, 2007 Kia Optima
  • k8ysek8yse Posts: 4
    I am having the same problem with a 2001 Regal LS. I'm not sure about the cover on the gearshift console, but I'll look for it and try some WD-40. When I put it in park, the door locks pop up. I'm wondering if there is linkage to the column that allows the key to turn to the release position. Apparently it is not an electrical release. Thanks for your post.
  • k8ysek8yse Posts: 4
    I would appreciate any ideas you have about the ignition key that doesn't always come out of the lock, but always goes in just fine. I am not sure about the shift lever switch. Is it the same switch that causes the door locks to pop up when you put it in park? My door locks always pop up. They key comes out easily at times, but then it refuses to turn to the release position. Both keys do the same thing. How is the key prevented from coming out. Is it mechanical or electrical? Thanks.
  • gweilogweilo Posts: 118
    :confuse: Anyone have an idea whether a '99 regal LS could have its rear seat modified to either fold down or remove? I know newer versions had that but I would like to know if a '99 could be modified. Even if it took some tools to pull it on the occasion it was necessary.
  • I have to R&R the starter out of my Buick Regal and I bought a Haynes manual which didn't shed much light on how to do this. The starter looks almost impossible to remove but I know this can't be true because another manual shows it as a B-Level maintenance level of effort and takes 1.1 hours. The Haynes manual says the corss member may have to be removed to gain access to the starter -- my cross member is welded in. The Haynes manual also says in extreme cases the front engine mounts may have to be disconnected and the engine rotated. The best I can figure this is what I have; the extreme case - so, how do you rotate the engine or is there another way short of taking the car to a dealership to get the starter removed and replaced.

    Any and all guidance extremely appreciated! TIA

  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    I just bought a 2005 mazda 6 and it is a great car. If you do get a mazda 6 try and get the V6 version because the 4 cylinder 4 speed is a little under-powered for me. All and all it is an awesome car and in the automatic version the tip-tronic option is great fun. Good Luck
  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS. The SES light, the anti-lock light, and the traction off light all come on at the same time. I have noticed this usually happens when the car gets wet. When the lights are on the cruise will come on then shut off right away, but when the lights are off the cruise works fine. I was wondering if the lights coming on have anything with the water possibly shorting them out. If anyone knows how to fix this problem it would help me tremendously.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    Two things come to mind:

    With a clean towel, wipe off any dirt from the computer chip in your key (both sides).

    The other item is you have a faulty sensor (duh!). Many things can come to be when all those lights appear. If you take the car to the dealer, most likely he'll get a vague computer code and their answer is often to change the ABS pump ($1,800). Don't go for it (unless you think you have such problems). Have them change the sensor (most like one of the sensors near the front wheels). FWIW, get the computer code from the dealer.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    The thiings I'd check would be the ground conections and positive connections at the battery and at the other end where they connect to the fender grounds and motor grounds. If you have a double layer positive cable with two main leads from it check carefully between them for corrosion. Check for corrosion going down into cables inside the plastic covering.

    How is your battery? A weakened battery can cause funny reactions.

    After that I'd go to Advanced Auto and have them check for codes even if that SES light isn't on. There may be stored codes that hint at the symptom of or the cause of the problem. The systems involved may not show codes with their reader. They may require a Tech II or equivalent that a good shop would use...

    The antilock and traction light could be from a related problem. I'm not sure how th SES engine light would work there and be from the same problem.

    Check leads, battery, and get codes read. All free so far!

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    Thanks for the help i will try those and get back to you if it doesn't work.
  • robins13robins13 Posts: 1
    Are there any special tools to replace belt tensioner and how do you do it. I bought a car without one on it. It's a 3.1 - 95 regal.

  • erwisneskierwisneski Posts: 18
    Okay I have 2 questions for the guru's out there. I have a 3.8 regal custom 1996. When I hit higher when acceleration around 45mph the Blower stops blowing until I level off on accel. I assume that this is probably a vac switch of some sort? First what is the location? Be as detailed as possible. How do I get to it to replace it? I have looked on the fire wall. Can't find it. Second question, where is the PCV
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    Are you saying that the blower fan stops blowing because of electrical problems
    are you saying the air stops coming through the dash vents since it's summer and you probably have air conditioning on?

    If it's the latter that may mean your motor is lower in vacuum and the vanes inside the heater box that direct the air to the floor or defrost or dash vents are controlled by vacuum. When the vacuum amount drops those doors go to their default setting which is defroster--for safety incase your car loses vacuum and you need to see out the windshield you can always have defroster.

    Try holding your hand above the defrost outlets when this happens to see if the air is coming out there. When you let off the gas the vacuum in the intake part of the motor increases and the heater A/C should go back to the original setting. This is easier if the blower motor is on high speed.

    If you are saying the blower motor quits completely, this could be connection problem. Unless you have automatic temperature controlled air conditioning, you can check this by turning the blower on high speed and see if it still happens. The high speed blower on a manual switch unit uses a different circuit and a different relay to give full electrical current to the blower.

    IF it's an automatic control blower speed with a digital readout, I assume it works much like my 98 leSabre's. There is a blower control module that is an electronic unit that varies the power to the blower. There could be a flaw it in.

    If your problem seems vacuum related, there will be a small black plastic or rubber tube about 1/8 inch diameter coming from your intake area of your motor. It will go to a tank that stores vacuum. It may be on the firewall or under the front fender somewhere. The tube may have a split or crack that's leaking vacuum away hurting the vacuum level.

    An engine that's worn may have less vacuum also. One test I would do is do the acceleration up a long hill where a vacuum drop occurs and keep the car in a lower gear so the speed of the motor is high. Start in 2nd gear and shift it manually to 3 and see if keeping the motor speed high 3000 rpm, e.g., helps keep the vacuum higher.

    Also the motor cuts out the AC compressor when you push the gas pedal down a certain amount, maybe 2/3, to let the motor produce more power. The cooling stops but the blower and internal air movement should stay the same. Same cure; keep the motor moving at higher speed so you're not pushing as far down on the pedal. I have a long hill with a merge from interstate to interstate where in 4th the motor required more opening so I just keep the motor in 3rd with the shift lever.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • erwisneskierwisneski Posts: 18
    Hey thanks! I however I think I may have discovered my problem today. My line going to the What I believe to be the vapor canister?? Unit. Some circular ball under the driver side fender. Anyway the line was completly severed. So I am thinking it was that. I am however surprised that the Check Engine light did not go on.I will have to wait to get onto the freeway to test. Maybe you know the answer to this I also noticed another vacuum L line going to the fire wall just an L line with no hose hooked up and none in site.This was a used vehicle so I know I did not disconnect it. Would Pictures help?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    I don't have a service manual for a Regal that works (I have a computer disk but it doesn't install). The globe container is probably a storage container for reserve vacuum to use when the motor's vacuum drops; it has a one way valve to let vacuum in from the motor but keeps the vacuum in the globe for the interior heater vacuum.

    The vacuum line at the firewall?????

    Was the line completely severed? In that case you'd have no vacuum inside.

    Even if it's not for the heating AC controls if the line is open that drops vacuum for the motor overall.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    I have tried everything except replacing the sensors. I think i am going to my friends mechanic shop and have him replace them. Thanks for all the help.
  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    I was wondering if the black air scoop under the front bumper is necessary because every incline i hit it scrapes on the ground.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    Because of the oddity of the problem, I suggest you'd be better off going to a good dealer who can read their tech II and diagnose the problem to understand what's needed. I'm concerned that your mechanic may replace parts and not hit the right solution...
    Just my 2 cents worth.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    Are you missing the whole tensioner, pulley, spring and rotation arm? or just the pulley? If it's only the pulley the bolt usually is left-handed threads; to unscrew turn clockwise.

    I don't know how the whole unit bolts on in your 3.1.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    I have got a diagnostic scanner that didn't give any codes. I also talked with a GM dealer mechanic and he told me something similar happened on another buick regal and when he replaced the sensors the problem was gone.
  • nschehlnschehl Posts: 1
    Suddenly noticed the engine has a roaring sound, gets higher as you increase the speed -- sounds almost as if you had snow tires. (Edited message per my husband after he drove it.) This is a 2003 Buick Regal. Nicki.
  • anyone know how much this will cost:

    fixing glove box handle [it got stuck and trying to pull it open resulted it in breaking off.] Glove box is now taped close :(

    Serpinebelt change

    just curious what it will cost to get it fixed at dealership.
  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    I have a 1999 buick regal gs and the crappy cup holders just snaped off. is there any replacements or do i have to just glue it together?
  • precious5precious5 Posts: 1
    Not sure where you live but I'm in TN and my Buick Dealership wanted $119.00 to replace the serpentine belt on my 99 Regal GSE. I paid 15.00, the cost of the belt.
  • 1996 Buick Regal 3.8 custom 135,000 miles. Okay I put in a new radiator. I went with 1 1/4 inch core instead of the standard 3/8th or whatever it is due to the heat in AZ. I finally got the low coolant lights to quit but I noticed I am getting no pressure. I am not over heating but when I pop the safety switch to depressurize no bubbles or liquid comes through. The cap is no older than 6mths. Any idea's? Should I even be concerned. The temp comes up to normal operating temp and it runs very well. I am new at this auto mechanic work so the help is very appriciated. Secondly were are the engin mounts?
  • I am having same problem - I have 91 regal- I replaced my tires and still have the sound - I do not think it is a cv joint because there is no grinding or shaking - just that crazy noise that begins after 20 mph or so - did you find out what it was?? Can use help pinpointing what is wrong. Kim
  • Has anyone heard of the rims corroding on the inside of the rim? I have one spot on all my rims that is rusted out and getting sealed hasn't totally fixed the problem, I still have to fill up the tires every 3-5 days.
  • I just bought a 1999 buick regal GS and the paint is a light blue color. I have never seen any other regals with the same color, only a dark blue. I was wondering if it would be a new paint?
  • I have the same problem. I brought it to the dealer and they could not locate any leaks and they said they have no record of this being a known problem. Yet I ran into someone who has the same year 2000 Regal GS and he had the same problem. How does this get elevated to Buick as a widespread problem. I only have 62k miles on my car and I'm looking at at least $1,000 for new rims.
  • Low Coolant light comes on until engine is warmed up, then goes out. If I fill with coolant past the line, the light will go out and not come on for a 10-15 days. Park it nightly in garage, have checked floor repeatedly for leaks -- there are none. Still after 2-3 weeks the coolant level does go down maybe a 1/2 to 1 inch.

    Is this one of those crazy deals with the Body Control Module where it is relearning what the correct level is?

    Any ideas? Many thanks.
  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    I just recently checked under my hood because after driving it for only 10 minutes i thought i smelt burning oil. I opened the hood and didn't see anything dripping anywhere, even on the ground. Then i revved the engine up just a little and a puff of smoke came from the back of the engine, so i quickly turned the car off. I checked the oil level and it was full. I didn't see any spots under the car. Any suggestions on what is going on?
  • Check your Valve covers. Mine are currently leaking and hitting the exhaust pipes. If so I am not a mechanic but I would probably say you need a new valve cover gasket.
  • I am think I may have bad engine mounts. Can anyone tell me the location of them in relation to the oil pan. This is a Buick Regal 3.8 1996. Any help is welcome!

  • gsboostgsboost Posts: 11
    Thanks for the advice, I will get that checked out. Is it still ok to drive around town like that?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    If you're interested in lots of info about your car, the Helm GM service manual for the car will be the best money you spend.

    Example; ebay link

    or you can price them here

    Helm inc.

    note that most of the manuals are a 2 or 3 volume set. You can read on the front how many books they are--it will say 1 out of 2, etc.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Like I said not a mechanic. However I have been driving around with my seals leaking for awhile. I could be completly wrong at what I think it is... But I have been to busy to change my gasket so I have just put up with the smell. That said... Oil and heat make fire so I may be just risking it.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 6,023
    One of my first cars had leaking seals. I probably drove it 2 or 3 years with smoke coming from hot exhaust pipes undernbeath. I was a "cheapster" back then so I never had it fixed. Guess I was lucky it never caught fire, though if any car was going to I would think it would have been that car.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2008 Mercury Mariner, 2007 Kia Optima
  • Valve cover gaskets leaking seem to be a common GM product problem. I had a 1988 Chevy Celebrity that starting leaking at 30,000 miles and it was 8 years old at that time. I drove it another 10 years with out ever replacing the gasket. My 1997 Regal, which I bought last year with only 42,000 miles on it, starting leaking about two months after I purchased it. The Celebrity had one gasket and oil never leaked on the manifold. The Regal has two, front and back. The front will leak onto the exhaust. The cost to pay a garage to replace the front gasket is cheaper, because there is less time involved getting to it, than the back gasket. I am hoping to run this Buick as long as I was able to run that Chevy, but I am afraid that I may have to replace the gasket, it is a fire risk. Maybe I'll just buy a fire extinguisher. Easier on the wallet.
  • My remote started acting like it needed a new battery. So, I replaced it. Now, I cannot get the remote to do anything. At first, after installing the new battery, I could get the three beeps that indicated that the remote was reset, but the buttons were still not responding correctly. I tried the spare remote and it was not working as well as it should. I put a new battery in it and I cannot get the three beep reset. Any ideas what could be wrong? All the buttons had been working, just had to be right at the car to get them to work, before I installed the new batteries. The dealer wants like $60.00 just to put it on the computer to see if it is some sort of module. Could my keypads just be worn out? The car is a '97. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    I don't know if they're the same as my 98 LeSabre but once of twice it got out of synchronization. The service manual said to hold down the lock and the unlock buttons for several seconds at the same time near the car. The horn would beep and voila we'd be back working again.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Went to GM dealer yesterday. I was told that it couldn't be the remotes, it had to be a "module or something within the car". Estimated cost, just to put it on the computer to check out what the problem "might" be, $60. Then I would have added expense in fixing whatever they might find. Schedule a service appt. Thought about it most of day. I went to a Ford dealership a few streets from my home. Explain the problem, this guy pulls out a little tester gadget and tests my remotes. As it turns out, my lock and unlock buttons are not responding. They are wore out. The car is a '97. Since these buttons are not working, I can not reset the remote after installing a new battery. I have to ask myself, why wouldn't my Gm dealer, where I bought the car, had not thought to test the remotes first. I called my GM dealer and told them that I had the remotes tested and to order me a new remote. I know that I am not a mechanic and I am a woman, but common sense was telling me the car was working fine up until the battery change, and up until that point I would have to push the buttons in certain areas to get them to respond. It wasn't that I needed a new battery, the remote buttons were not making contact. I would have had wasted money on the dealer running a computer check and still would have ended up buying a new remote. It just bothers me that I had to go to a Ford dealership to resolve this problem. I have been a Chevy owner for over 27 years. My first car was a Ford, nothing but problems.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    Replacement remotes with the same FCC number and GM number on back are available on the internet. Check price.

    You may be able to repair.The remote pops open using a coin or screwdriver to carefully open it. The keypad you push is a rubber layer with rubber buttons that stick up through the hard top of the remote. The back of those button have a conductive material that touches copper layers on the top of the circuit board under them and shorts between the two circuits there. That's what makes the remote operate. Lightly wipe those contacts on the circuit board with a clean cloth with rubbing alcohol. It make take off the gooey stuff that accumulates there on touchpads made like that.

    I fixed my Panasonic phone handsets the same way when the "three" button quit working unless you pushed several times to make contact. It was hard to take apart however...

    If your remotes don't work, try that on one.

    Remote seller google search

    Ebay search

    It's the FCC ID number that needs to match the on on your remotes. If you have remotes that have a large #1 or #2 on the back for memory seats and mirrors on your car, you will have to have the dealer or someone with a Tech II computer connect to the car to program them.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    Notice the black gummy stuff around the top two contacts for unlock and lock. There seems to be a lubricant or a breakdown of the plastic rubber around the buttons that goops up the contacts. I already wipe these with a dry cloth while I had it open.

    I wouldn't clean the button side unless the contact cleaning doesn't work. I'm hoping you can get your old ones working and just don't pickup the replacements at the dealer or ask for your money back.



    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • My remotes have no gunk inside of them, they really look like new inside. The remotes for my car only lock/unlock doors and trunk, no mirrors or anything. I have already tried cleaning them. Still won't work. Thanks for all the suggestions and help, though. I guess I will just have to get a new one.
  • i have a 91 buick regal with the 3.8 l engine and the low coolant light wont go off and the heat will not work, it does not appear that the engine is overheating or anything severe, but heat would be nice. I figure the thermostat is where i should start, but any input would be greatly appreciated
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,068
    Check the coolant level in the radiator. When coolant level goes low, now coolant flows through the heater.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • I have 140,000 mi on my 94 Regal. A friend on mine said I need to replace the timing chain. The car runs great with no problems. He, my friend, said all cars should have the timing chain replaced at 90,000 mi.. Would anybody have any info. on this, or should I let it go? I would hate to be on the highway and the car stops running.
    Thanks, Dave :confuse:
  • I don't know what this part is but it may be what you are looking for. On my 96 3.8 Buick Regal on the radiator, there is what looks to be a sensor with a probe at the end of it that goes into the radiator. This is on the left side side of the radiator. My probe was looking warn but not bad. However yours being a 91 Could be toast. Again I am not even sure that sensor is for low coolant. But on mine that it was logical that it would be.
  • the coolant level never appears to go down, in the radiator or the resevoir
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