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Buick Regal



  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,810
    Did they replace the filter in the trans flush and drop the pan or did they just connect hoses and run new fluid in?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    Well, I asked them about that imidaz. They said there was no need to drop the pan and change the filter. As they "backflushed" the filter to remove anything that may be in there. I asked if this was a safe procedure, of course they said it was...saying the machine used the vaccum created from the transmission to move the trans fluid. They said they have never had any problems with this method and it was safe. So, I hope I was right in putting my trust in them. It is a quick and easy way for the dealership to make some money.

    I was going to just replace the fluid myself....but read there was no drain plug on the transmission pan. Didn't want to get into siphoning.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,810
    >saying the machine used the vaccum created from the transmission to move the trans fluid.

    That's a bunch of horse hockey.

    The filter is a cloth-like fuzzy material somewhat like the engine oil filters. I cut apart my last one I took off the car. One particulates are caught in that mesh nothing is going to back it out and make the filter clean.

    You just donated to the company profit plan.

    You can jack the car up a little, place stands to support the weight, remove 20 little bolts from around the pan, catch the fluid that drains in an oil drain pan or plastic storage tub, replace the filter, install a new one securely, put pan back on with same old rubber gasket, tighten the little bolts evenly to about 2 lb-ft, refill with 7 quarts of regular trans fluid from PepBoys of a good brand, and have spent about $35.

    Put down sheets of plastic to catch splash and oil that misses the catch pan-I use plastic protector they have to Lowes and HomeDepot for you to put in your car to protect the trunk from plants.etc.

    You will be surprised what's on the bottom of the pan. If you find metal shavings, save the gunk for a trany guy to look at.

    There are some sites that help tell exactly how to do the change. I've done it 5 times on 98 LeSabre in 130K. I don't change filter other than at maybe 70K miles.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    "You just donated to the company profit plan"

    LOL. I knew going in that a "small" donation would be that part is fine. But, when I called earlier in the day to talk to the service advisor he answered "yes" when I asked that they could do this(backflush) because it was a metal screen type filter. If I had known it was the cloth type filter you described I probably would have taken it somewhere else to change the filter.
    But, whats done is done. Got new trans and coolant fluid so won't have to worry about it again. I will sell the Regal in maybe 5 years.

    That dealership did try to sell...sell...sell though. Wanted to change my oil as well as take my car over to their body shop to get an estimate on small dent on front fender. No thanks.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    <<You can jack the car up a little, place stands to support the weight, remove 20 little bolts from around the pan, catch the fluid that drains in an oil drain pan or plastic storage tub, replace the filter, install a new one securely, put pan back on with same old rubber gasket, tighten the little bolts evenly to about 2 lb-ft, refill with 7 quarts of regular trans fluid from PepBoys of a good brand, and have spent about $35.>>

    This is true, and I've done it myself twice on Chrysler minivans, but a word of warning on these here Regals. While pulling the filter off might require a good yank, getting the bushing out of the hole that the filter fits into can be a real bear. I've read where some guys just leave it in there and throw out the new one that came with the kit, that is if the old one is still in good shape. GM might sell a special tool for this. Also, be absolutely sure you buy the correct transmission fluid. There are different types and pouring in the wrong one will ruin your transmission. And, yes, this can be a messy job if one isn't careful; but a very satisfying job nonetheless.

    For those out there who might be interested in trying this, I highly recommend you invest in a Haynes (or equivalent) manual specifically for your car. It might cost 20 bucks, but can save you hundreds.
  • OK, I have a 2002 Buick Regal LS with 51,000 miles. It has the Grand Touring Suspension and the 16inch chrome wheels. At 45,000 I replaced the stock tires with a set of very similar Goodyear tires.

    At 50,000 I had the tires rotated as I do every 5,000 miles and now there is a noticable shimmy in the steering wheel while traveling at certain speeds.

    Also, at 50,000 miles I had the front and rear brake pads replaced. I would like this shimmy to go away but am not sure where to start. Should I have the tires balanced and get an alignment or do you think there is more underlying front suspension issues.

    I normally do not keep cars this long, but I really like this one and would like to keep it a while longer.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    My guess would be to start with the wheels. When the tire rotation was done they probably moved the rears to the front. A unbalanced rear wheel probably isn't as noticeable as one in the front, so try getting the wheels speed balanced again, especially the front. It might be as simple as one of the weights falling off.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I would suggest to ask if the shop have a Road Force machine and coated weights when balancing. If not, I would go to another shop / GM dealer.

    I balanced my wheels at Firestone when I bought replacement tires from them. I asked if weights are compatible with alloy wheels, and receive a positive answer. A year later the weights started to rust noticeably. Back to Firestone: the managers told that all weights rust and that his shop does not carry other weights.

    When changing air filter at dealership several months later, I asked them also about the rusting weights. Turned to be that the dealership uses special coated weights for alloy wheels.

    I was pleasantly surprised to learn that even at dealership a full rebalancing, on Road Force machine, costs only about $40. About the same as at Firestone, with bad weights and inferior equipment. Unfortunately, my wheels already corroded where the old weights were. Would I know it before...
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    I no longer own the car (2000 Regal GS) but I put about 25,000 miles on a set of four and I'd say I had 40% treadlife remaining. In those 25,000 miles, I had the tires rotated every 7,000+/- miles (every other oil change). No noticebale uneven wear and...I never needed to balance the tires or get an alignment during those 25,000 miles.

    As I said, they were good, all around (quiet) tires. If you're looking for tires that will give you super grip taking a sharp turn at 50 MPH, look elsewhere. These tires were a noticeable improvement over the OEM Goodyear LS tires (that only lasted 30,000 miles).
  • Funny, I had no problem with the OEM tires and they lasted 45,000 miles, they probably would have lasted longer but I was starting a LONG road trip and figured it would be best to have new ones.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    We replaced the OEM tires at about 35k miles. My wife was a primary driver, and she drives gently.
  • Thanks for the info. I have a little better understanding of the system now. Haven't had time to work on it yet but the link you gave me is gonna help out.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Today I upgraded the front brakes of my 2000 Regal GS to Impala LS. Brembo Sport slotted 12" rotors, Hawk HPS pads. The new brakes are awesome! They stop car on a dime. The only problem, if it is a problem: the ABS engages 3 times of 5. Even while the car have performance tires, and the roads are dry.

    Bought all parts online: the Impala brackets and installation hardware from GMPartsDirect, rotors and pads from TireRack. Dealership installed everything.

    The gap between the brackets and wheels is very narrow. I would say, a notch more than 1/4". However, it does not matter as long as the brackets do not rib the rims.
  • jdpinajdpina Posts: 4
    How do you change the rear spark plugs on a V6 3800 for a 96 buick Regal
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I know that I may be in the minority on this problem, but I have the electrochromic mirrors and the outside driver mirror's seal broke thereby leaking the fluid out over time. A new mirror costs about $500.00 by the time it is painted and installed. The mirror is cloudy but I can make due. I just want to know if anyone else has or had this problem. I have a 99 Regal GSE, and I really am thinking this may be my last GM car. This just adds to the long list of electrical problems I have experienced.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    This is a chore I've been looking forward to myself, but with my Regal at only 53k miles it isn't quite time yet. (So you're getting this from someone who doesn't really have the experience yet).

    From what I've read it appears there are two ways to do this. One is to remove the tower strut brace that connects the port and starboard front suspension struts. For some with smaller arms and hands this might be all you need to get enough room to access the rear plugs, but you may have to climb over the top of the engine like a monkey to do it.

    The other is to rotate the engine forward a little. I know it sounds bizarre, but the technique is actually described in the service manual I have for the car. With the car on a level surface and the wheels chocked, put the transaxle in neutral; disconnect the air duct; then remove the bolts from the front two engine torque strut bolts (commonly called "dogbones") and swing the struts out of the way; replace the strut bolt on the passenger side engine bracket so you can use a pry bar and rotate the engine forward, securing it in place with a ratchet strap connected to the bolt at one end and the frame or radiator core support at the other.

    Some guys will rotate the engine by putting the transaxle in park and the parking brake off and pushing the vehicle forward a little, locking it in place by then applying the parking brake. That sounds to me like something that might put undue stress on the transaxle, so I think I'll do it the other way.

    The hardest part of the job might be getting the spark plug boots off. When the time comes for me to do the job I'm thinking of buying a really good spark plug puller.

    And speaking of spark plug boots, be sure to use dielectric grease on the boots before replacing them on the plugs. Oh, and be sure to use anti seize on the threads of all the new plugs before installing them. It will make the job a lot easier the next time. Finally, remember not to over tighten them.

    Anyway, although I've never done the job before, I'm certainly not afraid to try it. Sounds like enough other shade tree mechanics have been successful, so why can't we?

    Good luck! Please let us know how it goes, and any tips you might have.
  • I recently purchased a 2001 Buick Regal LS that had the Keyless Remote missing. I have ordered a replacement. During the process of trying to program the car to the new transmitter you are supposed to get chimes back to tell you it is in the programming mode. I get no chimes and I have also noticed that when I leave the key in the ignition and open the door, I do not get the warning chimes.

    I do get chimes when I turn the key on to start the motor so I guess "some chimes" are working. Could these chimes have been disabled somehow and can they be enabled and if so how.

    Has anyone experienced this
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    After much debate, I purchased the Yokohama Avid T4 tires at TirePlus for $308 on the rim and out the door. Comes with lifetime tire rotation. After 3 days, I have had the opportunity to test them in 3 different elements. The first day it was raining as I was driving home. Were quiet,comfortable with good traction. The next day...streets were dry. Good handling and comfortable ride. Today woke up to dry snow...packed down on streets. I spun a bit under heavy acceleration and slid a bit under hard braking and turns...but were much better than Goodyear Integrity and Firestones FR680 and Fr440 that were on them.

    Yokohama advertises the tires as performance tires. Tire dealerships I have called say it is a Touring well as advertisments in the paper have stated they were touring tires. I liken them to a Performance/Touring hybrid.
    Only about 15 miles on them...but thus far I am very happy with them.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    The front passenger window is now inoperable. It has gotten "stuck" in the past. Now...nothing. After searching this discussion it seems Buick Regals in general have had problems with the power window motors. Any possiblity it may be something other than the motor? Difficulty and expense in repairing? Is this something Pepboys could do...or better off taking to dealer? Thanks.
  • caps1caps1 Posts: 1
    My husband really wants to purchase a 2004 Buick Regal GS. We are not having any luck finding one that is in the New England area. Please help. Thanks
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Someone may be able to give you a lead - I hope so - but please keep in mind that the Forums can't be used for buying or selling anything.

    Good luck!
  • jfalquezjfalquez Posts: 3
    I am trying to change the plugs and wires on my 91 Regal 3.8 Liter. I am having trouble removing the wire from the aluminum heat shields on the rear bank of the engine. I dont think I will have to rotate the engine but I'm not sure. My chiltons and haynes manual seem to say I need a special tool to do this (or suitable pry tool). I cant locate the tool and dont know where to pry with a small screwdriver. Can anyone describe the process to me like I'm a 3yr old? That would really be appreciated. Thanks. Jake
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Go to the home page of this site,, enter your zip code, and proceed to, an Edmunds partner. As of today, four copies of 2004 GS are listed in 300 miles radius from my zip code in CT.

    However, I would not fixate on the 2004 model. We have two Regals in our family, a 2004 GS and a 2000 GS. We found that the 2000 is a much better car. GM deleted a few good things in 2001, and many good things, big and small, during 2003-2004.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
    A reporter in Southern California is looking to interview a retiree who has been very loyal to the Buick brand over the years, right up to the present. Please send an e-mail to [email protected] no later than Wednesday, March 22, 2006 containing your daytime contact information and a few words about the topic of interest.

    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
  • jfalquezjfalquez Posts: 3
    Come on guys...I know there has to be someone who knows how to get the heat shields off the rear spark plug wires off the 91 Regal, 3,8Liter? My car is running bad and is dire need of a tune up. I really didnt want to pay someone to do it IF it's possible to do it myself. Thanks again...Jake
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Maybe someone hanging out in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion will have an idea for you. Post there while we wait to see if someone here can help.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    If I understand your question correctly, it is the metal shield around the spark plug wire boot you are wondering about. I believe that part simply lifts straight up along the path of the wire to expose the boot. Should be able to do it by hand. If it feels stuck you might try giving it a little twist.

    From there I believe the best course of action is to buy a spark plug boot puller to remove the now exposed boot from the plug itself. The one I'm thinking of reminds me of a pair of tongs. It provides more leverage in a tight spot. You should be able to get one at any of the major auto parts stores, or from your local GM dealer (but that will probably cost more, of course). Open the tongs, align them around the boot, squeeze the handle to close them over the boot, twist slightly and pull.

    Inasfar as rotating the engine is concerned, if the 1991 model year allows you to do that, I would recommend it. You will need all the room you can muster back there.
  • jfalquezjfalquez Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. Yes it is the metal shield around the spark plug wire boot I am having trouble with. I have tried pulling, rotating and prying with a small screwdriver. All attempts have been unsuccessful. My chiltons manual states that there is a special tool required to accomplish this or I can use a suitable small pry tool. So far, I have not been able to locate the tool at my local parts store (autozone and O'reilly's). I dont think I will have to rotate the engine as my hands seem to fit just fine. But I'll find out for sure when I get the wires off. I am curious of the location I should be prying (i.e. is there a snap ring or clip to release?) and what does "the special tool" look like? I know what a typical boot removal tool looks like and how it works, but I don't think that is what the manual is referring to. Thanks again
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Ok, I understand now. On my '99 Regal the heat shield doesn't cover the entire boot; there's maybe 1/3 inch of rubber at the top still exposed. Keep in mind I have yet the "privilege" of changing my plugs yet, but I wonder if the tool they are talking about is the standard boot pulling tool we've been discussing. The boot has a lip near the top that one should be able to grasp with the tool.

    I'd first try using the boot pulling tool to twist the boot sideways (not upwards yet) around the axis of the plug. If successful in busting it lose at this point, you've probably won 80% of the battle.

    The reason I mentioned in my earlier post that there might be value to rotating the engine is you will probably need the additional room to initially twist the boot lose. Some people I've read about don't rotate the engine, but instead remove the hoisting brackets around the engine, especially the one in the back.

    The boot pulling tool is usually long enough that you can pry against almost anything that isn't prone to breakage, like a valve cover. But I'd be careful of prying at an angle; could bust off the top of the plug. Might (or might not) need the other hand to position a wide blade screwdriver or something to push outwards against the tool to maintain upward (not sideward) force.

    If your '91 has a plastic cover over the top of the engine, it would probably help to remove it to find good points for leverage. On my '99, the cylindrical oil filler opening unscrews out of its opening, allowing the cover to be easily lifted off.

    By the way, I highly recommend you also replace the plug wires while you're at it. You might end up destroying one or two during the operation anyway.

    I was hesitant to reply to your first inquiry because sometimes following advice from someone who hasn't done the job before (like yours truly) can cause more harm than good. I've changed lots of plugs before, and even busted a couple along the way, but not on GM's 3.8L engines.

    Anyone else out there who has done this job already? Brian, Yuriy?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,810
    I've changed plugs on my 3800s in leSabres. My 93 had metal covers over the boots on the rear plugs due to heat. I could pull the metal sleeves up onto the wire and then grasp the rubber boot on the plug and rotate it back and forth to break it loose from the plug. Then I could rock it slightly to pull the metal snap in the top loose from the top of the spark plug. I used the metal sleeves on the replacement wires. Later had a problem with occasion miss under low speed, high load, and low throttle. Dealer diagnosed it as spark jumping to sleeve. Removed sleeve, problem gone.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    ["I've changed plugs on my 3800s in leSabres."]

    Now we're talking. Someone with experience!! Thanks!

    I forgot to mention in my earlier (and rather lengthy) response that we should remember to use Anti-seize on the plug threads before screwing them in, and dielectric grease on the wire ends. If installing new wires, put grease on both ends of each wire.

    Actually, even if we don't change the wires, it isn't a bad idea to refresh the grease where they connect at the coil packs, too.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,810
    I did a quick search back--but how many miles are on those wires? They're past due. Get a good OEM quality set from NAPA or your dealer or gmpartsdirect or rockauto. Don't fall for fancy, copper coated, antiarthritis, wires at the box stores. You want OEM level.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • gorfygorfy Posts: 1
    :confuse: i need to replace my rear struts and i'm trying to save to either do it my self or have it done ... i'm trying to figure out the best option but i cant get any... 'solid' estimates. i'm hoping someone can help me with my decision and hopefully and estimate or price for having it done by a mechanic... please help me... my one strut is already busted and i don't know how long i can drive on it before it pops through mt wheel well.... :sick:
    thank you
  • 79customd79customd Posts: 87
    Here is a similar discussion I found on Hope this is what you need :) )

    Replacing the rear struts on these cars is a pain.

    These cars use a leaf spring mounted between the two rear wheels instead of coil springs. There is a special tool that you can use to relieve the tension on the spring or you can just put one jack under the center of the spring and another under the side that you are working on to relieve the tension.

    The struts have brackets attached to them which bolt up to the wheel hub. The bolts are very tight and usually rusted. The top strut bolts can be reached through the trunk if you pull the carpet back.

    The difficult part is that the camber of the rear wheels needs to be set when you tighten the lower strut bolts. The lower strut brackets have slightly oval shaped holes in them and the camber is adjusted by tightening the bolts when the strut bracket and hub are in the proper relation to each other. The problem is that the leaf spring is always trying to push the top of the hub outward while the strut is off and the bolts need to be made very tight (I think factory spec is 125 ft/lb).

    I'm not trying to discourage you from doing the work yourself, just if you do replace the struts yourself you will have to bring the car to an alignment shop to have the camber set anyway. You might as well just have the shop install the struts and save yourself the hassle.
  • 79customd79customd Posts: 87
    My granddad bought a 2002 Buick Centry and the truck sat up for 12 months. That lead to the bad hoses and plugs. Also the 1979 technology wasn't as durable as the more modern stuff and nowhere near as refined.

  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    The dealership checked my cooling system, after I brought it in complaining of coolant loss from resevior. I've had to add about a pint every 8 months to a year. They said I had a leak on the upper intake and the water pump. Says its probably burns off before I ever notice it. They "recommended" it get repaired at $1,200. Since the leak is so light, would it harm anything if I just added Dexcool as needed? If I decide to repair...does $1,200 sound like a fair price.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    It would not pay to repair it if you are going to buy a new car in the near future. If you will drive the same car for the next 10 years, the leak, most probably, will increase, and the repair makes sense.

    I have read several times that fixing the the upper manifold leak costs about $800 at dealerships. However, it looks as the additional $400 is for fixing a separate leak at the water pump.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,810
    A few years back the upper intake manifold AND a waterpump replacement was *850$ at my dealer.

    I'd do just the intake and price shop for somewhere else to do it. Then if the waterpump actually does need replaced I would have it done. It almost sounds like the waterpump is being added to pad the bill while they're in there working.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    Thanks for the feedback. I'm pretty sure the car has had this problem (slow leak) since I bought the car two years ago. I posted a question about this very problem about a year and a half ago in this discussion. I'm going to call an independent shop that we've taken our vehilces to in the past and get a second opinion/estimate.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,810
    Frankly, they'd have to show me the trails of color from the coolant to prove that they needed to replace the intake manifold. A pint in 8 months or a year isn't much. Evaporation and seepage around heater hose connectors or radiator hoses could account for that. I also see some slosh come out the top of the overflow coolant bottle.

    My dealer put pressure on the system and couldn't get it to leak--leaks will be next to the throttle body connection to the intake manifold plastic. No water runs through the rest of it. We coiuld see orange dust from the DexCool in those areas. They also showed me that under the water pump there was a trail of orange from the wick hold that lets water out that gets past the seal at the bearing.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    When I had the cooling system flush and fill back in January, the dealership never spoke of a loss in pressure in the cooling system. So, I find it strange that now they would say there is a leak in the system. I'm wondering if they did the initial pressure test....or if the leak is so small it did not register.

    I see no "color" from coolant anywhere that would indicate a leak. Two suspect areas where "something" has leaked a bit. But, are dried out and haven't gotten worse. At this point in time I don't see myself spending $1,200 on this. Though will continue to keep a close eye on it. Thanks.
  • vegasladyvegaslady Posts: 10
    I'm looking for input from Regal owners. I'm thinking of selling my overrated Honda and getting a Buick. I only drive less than 5000 miles a year so I really want comfort and reliability. Consumer Guide rates Regal as the best of both worlds but I'm concerned about gas mileage. Can anyone give me some advice. I'm also considering the Century but I'm a little worried about American made cars. I had a Chrysler New Yorker that drove me nuts with repairs and I don't want to go through that again. Thanks
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    I own a 99 Regal GSE with the supercharged V6. Gas mileage for me is pretty good, but the engine does require premium gas. That might be a concern since gas prices are high, and expected to be even higher. For me overall the ride, handling, and comfort are good. My father owns a 2000 regal LS, same car just different engine and supension setups. I have driven his car, and there is really no difference except in the power dept at the 30mph to 50mph range. I also have driven a few Century's. Again a good car, softer ride, and another engine entirely. If I had to do it again, I would get the LS with the 3800 V6 non supercharged. A good compromise of power, ride, handling, and passenger/ cargo room. The 3800 V6 is a very good engine, one of GM's best. I hope I helped to answer your question. Good luck, and let us know what you decide to do.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,810
    Some of the GM motors, including the 3800 withou supercharger, have intake manifolds that need to be replaced due to the plastic allowing leaks of coolant. Be sure one you buy has had the intake manifold replaced. Demand proof. The date stamp is on the intake manifold if someone knows how to read it to determine if it's been replaced since the car was new.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • exo425exo425 Posts: 15
    In my opinion, I would deffinately choose the Regal over the Century because the Regal is a step above the Century in refinement as well as ride/handling. I have a 91 Regal with a 3.1 engine and i am very happy with it (no gasket leaks). My advice would be to stick with a newer regal (97-04) as those are all equipped with 3.8 engines while Centurys are all equipped with 3.1s. Regals are also a lot sportier especially if you look into a GS supercharged.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    I've owned both the Buick Century(1994 wagon with the 3.1 engine) and currently a 1999 Regal LS (with the 3.8 engine)
    The Century was quick off the line, but solely lacked the muscle when it came to highway merging and passing. Anything over 45mph was a chore. The Regal 's 3.8 200 hp engine is much stronger...has all the power I would ever need. That said, it has recently developed a possible slow coolant leak in the lower intake gasket.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    In doing a "search" in this discussion I've noticed many Regal owners to have had problems with coolant leak and problems with lower and upper intake gaskets.

    One post mentions that there was a recall for all 2000-2003 Regals with the 3800 Series 2 engine. Under the recall GM would replace the engine throttle body fastners with redesigned fastners and add cooling system sealant to the radiator.

    A few questions please: Anyone have this done and what was their experience? My 1999 Buick Regal has the same engine as those under recall...any idea why it may not have been included?

    Would having new throttle body fastners and adding cooling system sealant be an option for me?(see my above posts on coolant leak) Sounds a lot cheaper than the $1,200 for lower intake and water pump my dealer recently quoted me.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,810
    The different bolts connecting the throttle body to the UIM were to change how the force was applied and I believe to spread it out more evenly. The sealant was in the motor on you 99 Regal when it left the factory.

    GM had gone away from putting sealant in the motor from the factory because it tended to leave a crud in the overflow tank after a while or early on. People didn't like seeing that in the clear tank so they left it out. But most motors have it in and it seals miniscule leaks from the factory assembly.

    I added the sealant, two tablets, to my 03 leSabre each time I've changed the dexcool to refresh that sealing material which plugs cracks that _might_ occur. I do the the same for my 98 leSabre.

    If you didn't put a couple of tablets back in you 99 when you changed the antifreeze every two years (I hope you've done that) you should add it now. Buy the packet from your local Buick dealer, take two of the tablets and crush them with a spoon, then add them directly to the warm radiator and take her out of a good run. I drove to Cincinnati one time I did it. I open my hot radiator when it's not over heated but I don't recommend that for others. Do not add the tables to the overflow reservoir; they go directly into the radiator so they can circulate through the motor before they settle out to the bottom.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • exo425exo425 Posts: 15
    This is true, the 3.1 does lack a lot of midrange and upper range torque but it can spin the tires from a start. My friend has a Grand Prix with the 3.8 and i like it a lot better than my Regal's 3.1. Thats not saying i dislike the 3.1 engine, it has been reliable and i am closing in on 200K miles. As for gasket leaks, I have heard a lot about it but i haven't seen it yet. I have heard the older engines didn't have this problem until the mid 90s. Apparently, the Dex-cool wasn't designed to run up to 100K miles as advertised.
  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    I have a regal GS. I average 21 mpg. I don't always run 93 octane. When it is colder out I'll run 89. Usually 91 is fine. I don't get on the gas too much.

    Go Regal LS, if you don't need supercharger. Reliability has been pretty good. I've owned for 5 years now.
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