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Things to look out for in 2001 Auroras:
low VIN numbers: the first 3349 (14103499) cars had a different caster (tilt of the front axle)6 degrees vs. 5 degrees for later models.
Warranty work: Any new car that has had any significant warranty work (not cosmetic) should be suspect (at least from a price point).
OK. just drive it, these are great cars. What can one say about over 100 years of American driving history? If you like it, buy it! The Aurora (any year) is now, and will always be (sorry Spock) a piece of world automobile history.
I've been using regular gas in my '95 Aurora for 5.5+years with no apparent problem. After 117K miles, I'm going to turn it in for a 2001 V8 Aurora. Does any 2001 Aurora owner use regular gas in their V8? If so, any problems?
Thanks.
2) You post messages about missing your car on Edmunds.
3) You have spent hours upon hours building, re building and maintaining a web site devoted to something sitting in your garage.
4) You have pictures of your car in the "family album" or posted on the web.
5) You have read all the above listed dribble contained in this message and yet you continue to read on.
6) You have an Aurora
And I'll add:
7) If your wife told the kids "We'll have to cut back on some things now, due to your dad's car."
8) You still drive it with problems because you can't bear to drive another car for a month while the Aurora's in a time-warp called The Dealership. *shudder*
9) You don't know why your neighbors whisper to one another while you wax the car on the driveway.
10) Co-workers look forward to your repair horror stories.
11) You begin to enjoy telling repair horror stories.
12) People greet you not with "How are you?" but with "How's the Aurora?"
13) You get a tingle in your stomach thinking about driving the car while you're away on a skiing trip. (this one's from vwbus)
But, when I think of the twelve hours spent on Saturday doing an expense report for last week, it's nice to have a place to get away without having to leave the house. The Classic site would have (and has) existed in other forms if it wasn't for the car. It was originally an HTML hobby that got a bit out of hand when the Aurora offered so much material - and no one else did it. Unfortunately, I was told that there may be a lot of copyright issues, and it may not be around much longer
Fuel economy for our Aurora was in the mid 20s. We drove it up to the summit of Pikes Peak ( a nasty road on a drizzly day) and came down looking like we'd been four wheeling (muddy up to the windows. We also went up through the Breckenridge, Winterpark and Estes Park areas. Fuel economy in the mountains was not as good.
The amount of fuel we put in never matched the D.I.C. number exactly but was close enough that I figured the difference was related to me topping off to the nearest even $.
Yes, why yes I have compared the computer info with the pump data. In fact I keep a very accurate spreadsheet of all data for our cars. In the 2001 Aurora, while single fill data has varied by as much as 10% (in both directions), the overall for the first 7000 miles is within 1%. I also keep track of MPG vs. average speed, MPG vs. miles per day (both create very tight curves by the way), and a host of other incredibly trivial information.
15) You are not done with the polish job until you're sure that anyone who tries to lean on your car will slip and hurt themselves.
16) You pay more than some states charge for registration to get "2K1 OLDS" plates. I just ordered "2K2 OLDS" for the 2002 Silhouette Premiere AWD we just ordered.
17) You order the owner's manual for the 2002 Aurora, just so you can drool over it while you talk yourself into ordering the actual car.
Is this a warranty issue, or a service issue? I had an Infinity with a 3rd party warranty (WYNNs - they suck!). On a major repair - over $5K - they refused it and I wound up taking them to court. My baby was sidelined for 5 months until they finally realized I was going to hold them to it and they paid. Hope this isn't the case with yours.
May it be fixed quickly and cheaply!
BTW, my '95 is doing great (Knocking wood as I write this). I love it and have already put 10K miles on it since I bought it in May. She's up to 59K - and everything works! (knocking doubly on wood, now)
According to said chart, my '95 is a champagne metalic with sandstone(?- I guess that's the tan) leather. Seems to be an extremely popular color. I bet more than half of the classics I see are similar. Just in the past week or so, I've come along side 3 classics in the same color scheme.
Just an observation...
Looks a lot like champaige
looks a lot like beige.
So, I do not know how close your color is to mine.
Week six - I looked at a used Seville STS. The steering is so much lighter than the Aurora as far as manuvering in a parking lot. I still am not ready to retire the 95. The Seville is nice but I think I would probably do the GS400 over the Seville.
But you dodged my question on the service delay... service or warranty? It's hard to imagine a dealer would have that much trouble finding parts, so I'd guess it's warranty. If that's the case, I can empathize (see my last post). It's why I opted for a GM bumper-to-bumper this time on the Aurora. Haven't had to use it yet, though, so I can't report.
My 2cents on the GS400: Would be a great car but be VERY CAREFULL. I've heard service horror stories that would put those from my Q45 to shame. Be sure you can get a complete and thorough service history on the car you're looking at. Just MHO.
Week six - I spoke to the dealership today and they continue to have issues with Warranty Gold's administrator. So I got to waste half a day dealing with the warranty company myself in an attempt to fix the situation. In the end we may have gotten to the right result for the wrong reasons.
Ask me about the car again on Tuesday. That is when I get the next update on the car's progress.
My other mechanic brought up the Aurora today. He said I must be really missing the Aurora after "not having any" for over a month. I told him that most of the driving I have been doing is around town, and I don't like the aROARa for around town driving because it burns too much gas and is more difficult to manuver into tight city parking spaces.
Have you seen her
Tell me Have you Seen her?
Oh I see her wheel reaching out to me
Only her horsepower can set me free
Have you seen her
Tell me have you seen her
WHY OH WHY?
Did it have to leave and go away
for so long. .
Firstly, thanks for the great info, pix, recommendations. I hope to buy the I & N filter soon. My mechanic said he would show me how to install it and advised me that it does require some light maintanance.
I bought this beast in December of 1999, after owning a Chevy Corsica V6 with 4 speed Get rag for 12 years - sold it at 115,000 miles and after shopping around for new cars and losing my patience after going through 3 Chrysler, dealers (Concord), I looked at the used rags and found this close-to-immaculate 95 about 10 miles away. Had been bought in MA, was with his second owner who was selling it to get a company car. I think he was asking 11.8 or 11.9, I offered him 11.5 and he took it.
It was test driven by my mechanic, who gave it his blessing. Within less than a week, it needed a new water pump. So the $500 I spent on that I consider as part of the purchase price, so I round it off to $12,000. I have amazed friends in many ways with this car, one of which is I drive a $33,000 car, but paid for it cash as a result of a national travel video gig.
I have never been thrilled with the acceleration. I know they say that weight (3,950 lbs.) nixed any great performance. Even when I test drove it, my first Aurora drive ever, I though, its adequate, but not thrilling. I'd like to know... Is that weight contributing towards its great handling? Is that the payoff?
Does anybody know if anybody has succesfully put an STS engine inside or done any modification to bring the HI and torque up?
We all know its strengths like the best dashboard/cockpit I have seen and which gives you a thrill every time you step inside! The numerous features, the sound of the door and trunk closing, good braking, and on. I would like to raise a few negatives for your comment.
I have wind noise that is caused by the space between the drivers side door and the weatherstriping. When I go through a car wash, a bit of water sprays in. Does this mean its time to take it for weatherstripping replacement? I know an autbody shop will do it, how about something faster like a glass replacement place or general mechanic?
That plastic piece of molding under the bumper, which I understand directs air into the radiator, is constantly being scraped. I had to replace it 5 months ago. Do the new 2001-2 have this problem?
I find it odd that the DC player gets so hot - and so do the ODs when you've got your heat on.
I will be taking my first big trip in my Aurora within a week. Its my 31st reunion in Rockville, MD. I only wish I had time in my schedule to deal with the air filter and weatherstripping, we'll see.
I just put 4 new tires, a balancing, a new battery, and new front brakes. The tire mechanic said my rear (air) shocks are leaking slightly, but there is no urgency to change them.
Regards,
Aurorabill
To all - Well, if anyone's been around long enough to remember vwbus, aka Van Man, he just received the aROARa plates he's been waiting for months to get.
Henri-
Saw your Aurora on the road
last night, on empty desert flats.
Her searching foglights brightly shone,
and, squinting at familiar slats,
I heard her faint and sadly moan:
"You know where Henri's at?"
Henri - sorry to hear you've been Auroraless for so long - hope it soon returns home. Can't imagine being without my Bonnie for weeks on end.
Aurorabill - Congrats on that beautiful car! Best wishes for many enjoyable years and miles of cruising.
Ken
Let us know how she does on the trip.
Zinc....Its good to here about VWBus, I was beginning to think he disappeared into the Aurora void.
Henri..... I guess Im glad I don't have warranty gold. Hopefully warranty direct will be easier to work with in time of need. I still have till february of 2002 on factory warranty. I think if I were in your situation warranty gold might have one less administrator (My constant hounding, whinning and being generally obnoxious would cause him/her to resign)
However, one person posted to this board stated that the dealer had shown him an engine brace on the NorthStar that would cause the engine to sit too high in the compartment for the Auroara hood to close.
The guy at the Caddie drive-off also stated that caddie increased the displacement of the Caddie by increasing the stroke. Therefore, if you really want to "upgrade" the engine you can put in the Caddie crank-shaft and the other parts to bring the liter size up to the 4.6L.
Lets keep this dialog on putting in the Caddie engine going. I do want to make this mod but I want to talk with someone who has actually done it.
Also, I would suggest putting the 2001 chrome rims on the Classic. I think it would give the car a nice look. If you do this mod, you will need new tires since the 2K1 chrome rims are 17".
1. Dual Aircondition only cooling on passenger side and back seat (South Texas heat is unbearable without A/C).
2. Fuel gage is going up and down from full to empty (Randomly - Never know how much fuel I have . . .)
3. Headlights are blinking on and off - had to take the Headlight breaker and fuse out in order make it stop. Found black box located under dash, and replaced that, but it did not fix. Hope it is not a switch ($363 just for the part)
Like my A, but am looking forward to buying a larger vehicle (i.e. Ford Expedition possibly).
Any feedback would be great.
Thanks, Bib Tex
both the Aurora V8 and the Northstar V8 use the same stroke. the difference between the two is the bore of the cylinders, which is 89mm on the Aurora, and 93mm on the Caddie motor. so it's not necessary to change the crank, just bore out the Aurora by 4mm and you'd have yourself a 4.6L engine.
I would suggest that you verify by part number the crank shaft between the two engines to eliminate the inrease in stroke possiblity.
I was also told that it is not a simple thing to just bore out the 4.0 because f how the metal sleeves were used. Whether the source was saying it was the bore or the storke, each said that I am better off finding a wrecked seville and puting the engine in the Aurora.
Not withstanding the "fuzzy numbers", I hope it is a little clearer now.
First, the fuzzy numbers: from car mags I have the stroke of both Olds and Caddie as 84.0mm. Bore for the Aurora is 87.0mm while the Northstar is 93.0mm. Know nothing about stated problem of boring out the Aurora. All three engines have 10.3-to-1 compression ratio and require 91-octane gasoline.
I know of two versions of the 4.6-liter Northstar engine: 275hp in the Seville SLS and 300hp in the Seville STS; I think the deVille has the same 300hp as STS. I have tried without success to find out what makes the difference between the Cad 275hp and 300hp engines. If you compare them to the Aurora engine by dividing horsepower by displacement, the Aurora fits neatly in the middle -- 60hp/l, 63hp/l and 66hp/l. Not a significant difference and therefore no technology in the higher horsepower Cad engines to benefit our Auroras.
I suspect that swapping either Northstar for a good Aurora engine is a very expensive way to increase power (even assuming it can be done without or compensating for the suggested engine mount problems). A free-flowing exhaust may be a better power-per-dollar modification. Does anyone have real experience?
I've also chased the elusive computer performance chip without success. Anyone had a positive experience?
Has anyone experimented with cold-air / ram-air induction? I haven't found any manufacturer that lists anything for Aurora -- except K&N replacement for the stock air filter, which I installed first week I owned my Aurora. Also, I removed that appendage to the air intake, which I assume to be a silencer (I have never considered quietness a virtue in my cars). Made a plug out of pvc tubing parts to plug the hole. Recently I inserted a remote thermometer (inexpensive Radio Shack) to measure the intake air temperature. WOW -- in stop-and-go traffic the temperature of the intake air is 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit over what the instrument panel indicator shows for outside temperature. If stopped on a hot day, the thermometer goes over 156 degrees F, which is the maximum it will indicate.
I'm thinking of adding a duct under the bumper on the driver side to force outside air toward the stock air box. I'm also eying the driver side fog light opening as an excellent air intake. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
BTW, if you haven't figured it out by now, I'm trying to relive the glory days of the 4-4-2 W30s of the late '60s and '70.
1. The caddy 4.6 and the Aurora 4.0 are virtually the same except for the bore. All the literature confirms this. The comment about just boring the cylinders out a bit more might be valid. The block is the same I believe. I'm not sure about any changes to the heads or if those are the same as well. I'd definitely upgrade the air intake to feed the bigger cylinders and use the caddy exhaust system if it different from the Aurora. I think a lot of the small differences in the various northstar HP/cubic inch output is due to differences in the air intake, exhaust, and small changes in the computer tuning. They do that on purpose to make it worth spending the money for the higher performance model. I've also read car reviews that noted a 5 HP increase over last year's model from an improvement to the air intake box.
2. Superchips has or at one time did have a performance chip for the 1995 Aurora. It supposedly added 20 HP and 33 to the torque. However, starting in 1996, GM changed the computer (OBD1 it is called I think) such that replacing a chip is not possible. Instead, a "microtuner" is needed to download the stock program and replace it with the performance program. You can go back to stock at any time. Unfortunately, they have not come up with a microtuner for the northstar engines. I've talked to 3 people there and 2 said that it is being looked into, but is a low priority and one said no-way. With the increasing number of northstars out there each year, I hope it happens. What all of us Aurora owners (and Caddy too)can do, is call superchips and show some interest. It might help. The number is 407-260-0838. Keep checking back every 3 months too. Call! They have these things for other GM cars with the "newer" computer. They even make these things for Ford Escorts for crying out loud, so you would think these wonderful cars would be considered.
3. I put the K&N in and I think it is a little better. No computer problems. I swear I'm getting about 2 mpg better on the highway with it. They confidently claim a 2 to 4% HP increase, so you are getting 5 to 10 more HP. That's great for less than $100.
4. RSM racing (rsmracing.com) makes an air induction system for the Aurora. It is basically a K&N FIPK kit (if K&N were to make an induction system for the Aurora). It replaces the air box and utilizes a K&N cone filter on the end of the induction pipe. The air box on the Aurora is a piece of crap in my opinion. The air enters the box through a few small ports and is basically pushed through one end of the panel filter thus limiting the full use of the filter area. I think the induction system system would help greatly. Maybe 15 HP. (Crankandchrome.com did an air induction on a 2000 Corvette and it added 21 HP at the rear wheels on the dyno! - that's about 28 HP at the engine!) On the Aurora, it is supposed to pull air up through the opening left my the removed air box.
5. RSM also makes a performance exhaust system including a supersized catalytic converter. However, a seemingly knowledgable guy at the dealer said that reducing the back pressure can sometimes "evacuate" the cylinders prematurely and you could lower the low-end torque output. High-end HP would go up, but you may be slower off the line. Who knows, RSM did not dyno test this individual improvement to see what happens. They told me they dyno'd an Aurora with the air induction, the larger throttle body and the exhaust, and it put out 289 HP. Call a Caddy dealer and ask about the exhaust system. How is it different from the Aurora?
6. I think I'll do the air induction from RSM and hope for the chip someday. The two together should give you 280 to 285 HP and over 300 torque. That should just about match any Lexus 400 and if you have an Autobahn, you will probably be quicker. Of course you always look better in a beautiful Aurora. Make sure you tell the chip people of any other improvements you have made so they can custom tune it - otherwise it won't work right. Let's hope for the chip/microtuner.
I've got a black 98. Go over it with Meguires mirror glaze No.7. Rub it in good. Then use their gold class liquid wax. It will look like a wet piece of candy. If you work the glaze in good, it will remove all the micro scratches that accumulate and make it look hazy - especially a black car.
Your thing about the air temp was really cool. Thanks. When stopped, it doesn't matter, but I hope those temps went down when you started moving.
My only concern with the RSM racing air induction is that you would pull too much hot air off the engine. RSM says no, and I guess it depends on how much or how well air will flow up the opening created by the removed air box. K&N told me you drop 1 HP per 40 degrees of air temp. The air temp is a concern of mine with that air induction system.
OH where did it go?
When I need it on the road
And the perfect story ended at the SHOP
I thought we would drive forever
but warranty gold kept us apart
Left hanging on
On the chance my repair would be approved
How could a car repair
Turn out to take sooo looooong
---- Thank you Gibb brothers (Bee Gees)
For those of you not old enough to remember, think Saturday Night Fever soundtrack
I'm back...Got my AroarA here in Portland now and I am enjoying the summer months here. So far, no trouble. Maybe a little trouble starting when it's warm...Any ideas?
Zinc---You post those photos on your site yet?
sounds to me like it's your fuel pressure regulator.
to the guys wanting more performance:
i'm enjoying the conversation, and i'm thinking of going the RSM air induction route myself. i work in the sheet metal department of a decent sized manufacturing shop, and i am planning on fabricating a ram-air scoop to pull cold fresh air from underneath and funnel it right to that huge K&N filter. with the correct venturi shape,and alot of luck i will gain a few psi of boost to feed those 8 cylinders.
Autobahn95 - your underneath scoop idea sounds really interesting. If you do it and you are really happy with it, I'd be interested in implementing your system on my Aurora. If you have the 95, call superchips. They might have the chip for your car. It's listed on their web site. I think you have to send them your chip and get a rental car. If you call, let us know what happens. Remember to tell them you are ramming some air so they can custom tune it.
Thanks for your interest and support.
Air box temp goes down very slowly; that's why I want to do something about it. Part of the slow reduction in temperature after getting up to speed after sitting in traffic may have to do with my measuring system. Still, when you want to beat that 5.0, 528, or Lxs at a light, every little bit helps. I have a vague memory of reading 1% loss in hp per 10 degree (F or C?) rise in temp; I'll have to look into this more.
I appreciate your excellent information on performance mods. I will contact Superchips.
Peter Lute,
I am interested in your ideas about air scoops. My initial thought was to keep the stock air box and to feed it cooler, higher pressure air from under the bumper or through the fog light opening. Hood scoops are not an option for me. Maybe replacing the stock air box is good idea. I want to be careful about not picking up water.
Little things that I love about my Aurora:
- Carpets are so plush and even thou my car has 93K, they look almost new
- Seats so comfortable that in trips up to 3 hours I still feel comfortable. I'm about to try nearly 6 hours - Bergen COunty, NJ to Montgomery Co, MD. At one time (early-to-mid 60s) I used to be able to make it in 4.5 hours.
- A trunk which has those out-of-the-way hinges. There appear to be 2 hydraulic and one mechanical, per side.
- That temperature outside is useful and very accurate 98% of the time. I impress friends when I drive by a bank which displays the temperature and then display mine and its only one degree different!
- The steering wheel is the best I have put my hands on. When I test drive a 94 SLS, it wasn't nearly as nice even though they were both padded leather.
- Seat adjustments on the door (Instead of at the side of the seat cushion.
- The performance button the the side of the shift lever - when pushed in and activated - gives me just the right amount of 'rev' before shifting.
Now, a comment on the rear window. I can't see what people are complaining about. I work with lenses, optics and have a trained eye (in my job)and if a magazine article hadn't pointed it out, I wouldn't have noticed. It is very subtle compared to if there were no glass in it!
Oops, let me ask you about this problem. My gas cap latch won't open unless I go into the trunk. I had it replaced 9 months ago! Suggestions??
Aurorabill (4 days til countdown)