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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
1)Is anyone else experiencing soft breaks with their '05 Tacoma? I don't have to push the breaks all the way down to the floor, but it seems it takes a little more to stop this thing than tapping...
2)Is anyone else experiencing a slight jerking action as the automatic transmission is trying to shift into 1st from 2nd when coming to a stop? It's nothing violent, but is noticed. Kind of like the truck is trying to downshift, but it is going too fast to get it into gear. No noise though....
Thanks in advance.
However, I also have a problem with the security alarm going off for no reason. Last Thursday night it went off at 1 and 2 AM! Saturday it went off 4 times in the later AM. Turned it in to the dealer to do the instrument panel change on Monday. They have had my truck for three days and reported to me that they had no problems. Brought it home tonight and just now at 8 pm the alarm went off again. So basically, it can go off anytime any place. I am going to include the temperature which is 38 degrees along with the time in my observation in case that may have anything to do with it. The service manager called this in to Fremont and they assigned it a case number. So they will now check back on this. I recommended to the service manager that they gut the system and give me a new one. Then install this one in the head honcho's Lexus and let old Shemp Howard experience this first-hand. That way the alarm will wake up his dogs and drive his neighbors crazy.
FEDEX the Frankenstein alarm back to Fremont to take it apart for analysis. If they want an answer, they won't get it by leaving it in my truck.
And if papa ain't happy--ain't nobody happy.
B
is this a problem with all 05 automatic transmissions?
John
I feel that a full quart of consumption in a 1000 miles or less is a bit on the high side, particularly once an engine has broken in, but you won't find a mfr that will initiate repairs just because of oil consumption at that level. OTOH 1/2 to 1 qt in 3k or more is not unreasonable at all. This is why oil should be checked frequently. Mfrs will often say w/ every fillup, I try to do it at least every 2 or 3 fillups, and before leaving town for out of town trips.
Make certain that you are checking the oil with the vehicle on a level surface. (Many filling stations have concrete floors that are sloped for drainage.) Also, if you are not changing the oil yourself, make certain you check the level immediately after an oil change, some shops don't prefill the filter (a personal peeve of mine), and once the engine is started, as much as 1/2 qt may fill the filter. If they don't recheck and fill to the full line, then you may be starting a bit lower than you assume. (Note, the "full" mark is a not to exceed level. It doesn't have to be at that level, though admittedly, I generally try to keep it very near. The closer you are to that mark, the more oil there is for cooling, though anywhere in the acceptable range should be good. Don't overfill, however, as that can result in foaming.)
I think you can rest easy, but check your oil frequently as normal preventative measure.
B
I bought a 2004 Tacoma a few Months back and I have the EXACT same problem you are having with Starting.I have 4,000 Miles on it.I have taken it to the Dealer(3 times)and the Electrical- Ignition System was replaced.No Luck!It is still difficult to start.Getting very frustrated.
Perhaps you have figured things out and any help will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,Roc revelino@hotmail.com
i am buying a 99'tacoma with other than the original motor and would like to verify that the correct motor type was installed.
Any other things to be on the lookout for with a replaced motor? Runs good, drives good and looks good.
We had a similar problem (one of many) with my wife's 1999 Honda Odyssey years ago. Turned out it was one of the (many) prblms with the transmission on that vehicle. The tranny would improperly shift(I don't recall if the lockup was involved), engine would bog, computer would add throttle to keep engine rpm up, driver would have to mash down on the brakes to keep from, say, going thru the stoplight you're stopped at.
-My wife found this very disconcerting, to say the least.
I wouldn't drive it under these conditions, and I shouldn't think the dealership would want you to (because of their liability exposure). You might even suggest that they need to be more aggressive, perhaps they need Toyota tech help, in finding the prblm because they surely don't want the liability of you driving off with it and it causing a crash.
good luck
Can anyone recommend good wax and soap for washing? And, a good type of cloth to use?
Also, what is a good interior protectant to use?
Thanks.
I got mine last month and used Mothers carwash and Mothers new Reflections, worked great.
I will say I did it twice, used claybar the second time and it really came out much better, as good as any pro shop could do, also noticed it had and outstanding paint job, not one flaw in the whole truck.
I only use micro fiber towels on my cars.
Here are two good websites about waxing cars..
http://www.mothers.com/waxforum/
http://autopia.org/forums/
kbshadow
Stockton Ca
The truck doesn't seem to be shifting right (auto), going from 3rd to 4th. It just seems like it's straining.
Question at what rpm's should the truck be changing gears?
Anybody else here have a problem with paint chipping?
And...
The truck has a hard time starting, doesn't matter if it's cold or not. For christmas I bought my husband the remote starter and I don't no if the problem is caused by that.
Thanks
Missy
She also confirmed for me that the fix has been implemented in the factories, and that all new Tacos being produced have the new manufacturing process to fix the problem in production. I don't know when the factory implemented the fix, though (forgot to ask!)
gdwtch1969@aol.com
I am in the same boat you are in.Had mine to the dealer 5 times and still no solution.I had the wiring harness an fuel pump replaced.But I am still having the same problem.Now sometimes when I am trying to start it,it will just stop cranking and not start.I had sent you an e-mail.on this paticular problem.The longest my truck has started everyday has been 3 weeks.No longer.Since I have owned it.I will continue to take this truck back to the dealer until they can fix it.or figure out the defect.But I would like to stay in touch with you.Maybe together we can figure this problem out.
gdwtch1969@aol.com
The crossover pipe, although forward of the transfer case, hangs lower as well. So, I guess Toyota is not the only manu. to do this. Just in case, as stated before, put a spare hacksaw in the truck. Just in case!!
(Warning note, don't engage the starter for more than 15 seconds at a time. The electric motor in the starter would be rated for a small fraction of the load it carries if it had to run continously. But since a starter normally only runs for a few seconds, the heat buildup is not an issue. But continuing to run a starter for longer than 15 seconds or so will cause heat buildup which will break down the insulation on the windings and short them. As individual winding short, the amperage goes up, causing more heat and more shorting until the starter just can no longer turn the engine.)
The earlier suggestions were based on the assumption that the starter was able to crank the engine without fail. If this happens after you wash the truck, that should be reproducible. (While they can't read a code from the onboard computer if there is no MIL light on, they can plug a monitor in and leave it plugged in for you to drive home with it to wash it as you usually do. After you wash it, and attempt to start it, possibly a code could be picked up.) However, if it is a starting circuit issue, there will likely be no codes generated. I don't think that the OBD II diagnostics accommodate sensing of anything that would find a loose, leaking (water) or corroded connection in the high amperage starter circuit, nor a bad starter, starter solenoid, or starter switch.
Have you mentioned to the dealer that this happens after washing the vehicle, and that the starter will fail to continue to turn? If it were in my driveway, I would check all the cables to/from the starter and starter solenoid (both positive and ground cables) for loose connections, corrosion, etc. I would check the wiring between the starter switch and the starter solenoid, particularly for bad boots/seals that might be affected by moisture. Then I would check the switch itself, the starter solenoid, and the starter.
Good luck.
However, I recently bought my 3 volume set of 2005 Taco manuals on eBay for half the retail price. If you search, I'd bet you would find them. Seller was Jcmanuals1, transaction was smooth, delivered as promised, in pristine condition.
Granted, a couple hundred bucks is still a nice stack of change, but for every new vehicle I have ever purchased, when I bought the factory service manuals I did not regret it, and the one time I did (with a 1984 %^&#$#$ Ford Ranger), I regretted not having bought the factory svc manuals. (Haynes and Chiltons are fine if you know nothing about basic service/maintenance of vehicles, but the detail is badly lacking and they provide virtually no value to me. What I find in those manuals, I either learned in high school while maintaining my parents' cars, are have read in Popular Science or Popular Mechanics.)
Often the value of the factory svc manual is not so much in helping you to do the work (which it often does), but to know what needs to be done, so that you know whether you need to bring it in to the dealer or just another mechanic, and if so, how much time and $$$$ it should take.
After heavey rains last week -- checked the truck and it is soaking wet -- really need this solved as it is starting to get musty. all the best Dudley
The most common cause of something like that is a bad ground connection.
There are a number of reasons for that, but suffice it to say that's the first place to look. Not necessarily the quickest (or cheapest if you have to pay for labor), but it's the most common. The poor ground may result in a "backup" in the system, and provide some current to lamps that are "off". Since the high resistance of the connection causes the "potential" at that connection point to be at a higher voltage than the battery ground, and since the voltage across the panel lights is the supplied voltage (12- 15 VDC, depending on whether the engine is running and the variation in your regulator) minus the voltage at the ground connection for the lamps, increasing current from the high-amperage fan raises the voltage at the ground connection, lowering the available voltage to the lamps, resulting in dimming of the panel lamp.
You don't mention year model or mileage, but if it's in warranty, give them the symptoms -exactly what you observed, not presume, and then suggest that they might want to look for a bad ground.
Good luck