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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance
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This oil was in use for too long a distance for this engine to handle as can be seen by the higher than average amount of wear metals (Iron 35ppm). The TBN was 0.0, showing no active additive in the oil. Silicon at 44 ppm is either from a silicone-based lube/sealer/gasket or it is dirt getting past the air filter, so check that out. Oil viscosity was higher than normal due to extended use. We suggest a 7500-mile oil change to help improve wear and check back to see the results.
Anyone know of a silicon-based lube/sealer/gasket on the PF that could be causing the high silicon reading, or is it likely from dirt. What do you guys think about all this? Anyone else used extened drain intervals?
Ok... I realize this is a really old message to be replying to but I was looking at some of my old bookmarked stuff. Pathstar1, you still alive? So what would happen if you filled the front driveshaft with grease... errr.... hypothetically? :confuse:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Reg. Frank R.
I've also taken the vehicle to independent mechanics and they really aren't much cheaper. Lowest bid I've gotten to replace each oxygen sensor is $300 for the independents.
QUESTION: Is it possible for me to change out the oxygen sensors myself? Can someone tell me if I need to be a trained mechanic , aka, how big a job would this be? I am a fairly handy person and am ready to do it myself to save the $400 bucks the dealer wants to replace each sensor. How do I find the exact position of both the front and rear oxygen sensors? Any information someone can provide me will be greatly appreciated. THANKS!
What kind of gas are you using? If not super, change to it. Granted the cost over the long haul may not make sense, but at $400 a pop for the sensors - that's a lot!
before the tuneup it would chug and idle, the plugs were shot, etc.
any ideas why it would do this?
vacuum, sensor, something? :confuse:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Remove the shifter knobs and pull out the dust boot(s).
Remove the mounting screws and carefully lift the console out over the shift lever and brake handle.
From the graphic there, there's 2 or 3 bolts, depending whether it's a Type I or Type II, and a Pawl (6 places), whatever that means - looks like just a cover hiding some of the bolts.
Maybe this will help:
1. Disconnect the neg battery cable for 10 minutes usually erases codes.
2. On older models, the cpu is under the passenger seat. Follow the manual on how to check and erase codes.
1. Use a pliers instead of screwdriver
2. Take the bottom fan shroud off.
I do both.
2. GOO GONE
Neither one eats the paint from my experience
used by many pilots to clean gauges on cockpit.. also used on space shuttle for cleaning instrumental panels..
go to a smooth paved parking lot... take a chalk with you..... draw a line from across the tire from inside to outside....
the line should wear even all across with correct PSI.... if too low or too high it will show by wearing on the center of the tire or the edges of the tire..
you can google tires psi using chalk to test psi on tire.... good luck
they come with a book and c/d to tell you what the code means...