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2013 and earlier-Mercedes Benz E-Class Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • Hi kevinc5,
    I made a homebrew spreadsheet where I could enter variables for items such as acquisition fee, car option invoice pricing (drop down), DMV/registration fees, etc. I set it up so I could see a side by side comparison when the MF is varied (i.e., lease with MSD and lease without). As noted in my post below, I had it calculate the individual components of the monthly lease (monthly depreciation, monthly interest, and monthly tax).

    My wife loves her bluetech: White, Sport, P1, parktronic, spoiler pkg, tinted windows, split folding seats. We had an A6 3.2Q previously which is quite a tight ride and great for trips to Tahoe and handling rain soaked roads (we lived in SF previously). The bluetech is not as performant a ride, but the torque is great nonetheless.

    Cheers!
  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 953
    It is almost that easy...but in the case of maintenance, you have to know if they are putting it in the calculator to be fully paid over the life of the lease....or if they are including it in the capitalized cost as a feature and you are only paying for the cost of the maintenance less the residual value of that "feature".

    I believe Mercedes lets you add it as a feature...and that's a big benefit because instead of paying $1200, you are actually only paying $300 for the maintenance (example numbers). warning..you can only do this if you buy the mercedes maintenance package and many dealers try to sell you a "better" package...don't fall for that little dealer trick which my dealer tried by not even mentioning that mercedes had a package (autonation dealer in Fla).

    You also have to be careful about how they add the credit for the MSD's...make sure they reduce the mf and make no other changes...and make sure they aren't charging you taxes on the security deposits?

    Finally, you need to know the "origination fee" they are charging....are the charging the mercedes $795 or are they marking that up for additional profit that they don't talk about.
  • rob5893rob5893 Posts: 3
    edited June 2012
    Here is the deal
    E350 Conv - 36 Month lease
    MSRP = 69,685
    Total discounts including conquest = -7185.00
    Residual 62% = 43,205
    Trade Equity = They are giving me 19k for my car which i owe 17,564 on.

    MONEY FACTOR i am told is .002

    Out of pocket $4170 includes Tax First Month Payment, bank fee, and Tags.

    According to the online calculator here
    http://www.edmunds.com/calculators/car-lease.html?sv

    My monthly should be $591

    The dealer is telling my monthly is $750!

    WTH???? anyone can help?
  • hx_guyhx_guy Posts: 39
    How did you come up with $591? I plugged in your numbers and came out with $772.

    I think a point of confusion here is the $4170 that you are paying out of pocket. On the calculator, don't put that down as a down payment because that is not what it is. Aside from that amount being too high, part of that amount is for first month, tags/title, doc fee and acquisition fee.

    Couple of things...what do you mean by "tax"? Unless your state is different, tax is charged on the monthly payment each month and is not paid up front...if they are telling you to pay it up front then they are trying to swindle you.

    Your out of pocket should be first month, title/tags, doc fee and acquisition fee and really should be $2500-$3000. If they are truly giving you $1476 more for your trade than what you owe, then you should be able to apply that toward those out of pocket fees which would only leave you to pay $1000-$1500 left to pay out of pocket.
  • Ditto to hx_guy's calcs, I'm not sure how you arrived at $591/mo. Assuming a $795 acquisition fee and $0 down (cap cost reduction), I arrive at $728/mo (pre-tax).

    Cap Cost = MSRP - Discount - Trade* - Cap Cost Reduction + Acquisition Fee = 69685-7185-1436-0+795=61859
    Monthly Depreciation = (Cap Cost-Residual Value) / 36=518
    Monthly Interest = (Cap Cost+Residual Value)*MF=210
    Monthly Total (pre-tax) = $728

    *Some dealers treat trade as a form of downpayment (aka cap cost reduction).

    Again, assumes that all you would pay at lease inception is $0 down + DMV fee + 1st month's payment.

    I hope this helps.

    Cheers!
  • hx_guyhx_guy Posts: 39
    Another quick thing I didn't mention earlier related to the sales tax...

    When I leased my Audi A4 a bit over a year ago, the finance guy actually tried to add the sales tax into the Cap Cost and then also charge it again on a monthly level. I couldn't believe it.

    They gave me a price of the car of $38,000 then added $3,500 in sales tax, had the Cap Cost as $41,500...payments came out to $530 and then they added $50 for tax for a total of $580/month.

    I didn't even catch it until after we left the dealership and ended up going back only to have the finance manager say that he did it correctly and that I didn't understand and that is how it's supposed to be done. I insisted to see the sales manager, who looked over the contract, agreed with me, and had the finance guy change the contract. Payment dropped to $535/month. I later found out the finance guy was let go...not sure if it was that incident or other things he had done.

    Just be careful as apparently dealerships try tactics such as this and put it under line items such as "Sales Tax" figuring the buyer will take it at face value. Speaking of which, I think Mercedes may have taken me as well for $250 looking at my contract. They have "Registration Fee" as $886 (which is correct, it is very high in Arizona) but then they had "Title Fee" as $250. On my Audi, the Title Fee is $4.00 and from my knowledge, it is supposed to be a $4.00 fee...so it looks like they inflated that and I paid it as part of the up front money.
  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 953
    edited June 2012
    Most dealers will treat a trade in as a capital cost reduction unless you speak up. 95+% of lease buyers buy on the monthly payment....if the monthly payment is lower, they go for that deal. The other 5% are hopefully here and realize that you should put no money down, you probably should use the trade in money for multiple security deposits, you should buy mercedes maintenance and include it in the lease and so on.

    There are a few states where you have to pay the taxes up front...but then you don't pay it monthly. I vascilate between thinking many dealers are dumb and many dealers are shifty crooks.
  • a5caba5cab Posts: 3
    Hi Car Man,

    Would you happen to have the money factor, residual, etc... for a 36 months lease on a 2012 E350 Cab with 15000k miles/year?

    also, side note... I heard 4matic may become available on the 2013 E350 Cab. Would you happen to have any insight? I know at this point, its probably still speculation, but feel free to speculate ;-). Thanks in advance.
  • robertw477robertw477 Posts: 179
    GH-well stated. I like your comment about the dealers are dumb or shifty. I believe with car dealers the latter. They play dumb. So many leases are truly fleeces. I look at the deals on swap a lease and lease trader and the vast majority of leases have monthly numbers way higher than they should be. On the few times a dealer asks me how large a cap cost I want to do, I usually say cap costs are for suckers who dont know better. The dealer says people do it to lower the payment, with no cost benefit to them. That is a joke. Sign and drive only on any lease makes it less complicated and the basic idea of lease is to not put money down. They are not understood by most people.
  • new_to_enew_to_e Posts: 11
    I'm considering purchasing my first Mercedes (used) at a local dealer. I'm happy with the price at about $27,800 with 42K miles. But it is not certified pre-owned, and is being sold as-is. It has two new front tires (one is Michelin the other is a Pilot SS I think). It looks like it could use 2 new rear tires. I usually keep my vehicles for a long time.

    I'm concerned about the extended warranty price I was quoted of $4,400 for an add'l 48,000 miles. It has less than two months original factory warranty left. Does anyone know what a reasonable price might be for an extended warranty? Is that the same as being certified? Thank you for tolerating my ignorant questions.
  • abacomikeabacomike South FloridaPosts: 3,772
    Extended warranty on 2009 Mercedes

    I would not buy that particular car. Whenever there are two different tires on the front end of a car being sold by a dealer, it means the car has not been properly maintained. Also, the price is way over what I would pay for a car with 48,000 miles and an E350. I truly believe you are looking for trouble if you buy a car sold as is. If the dealer is a Mercedes dealership, they usually don't sell cars without extended warranties if the are reputable. Be very cautious!

    2014 Mercedes Benz CLS 550 - best car ever! 2nd best car ever, my 1967 Corvette Stingray Coupe with 435 hp.

  • robertw477robertw477 Posts: 179
    I agree with the other post. I would not buy that car. Repairs on MB are very costly and not being a certified car with the tires as you mentioned can be an issue.
  • art14art14 Posts: 6
    Hi,

    I am looking to see if I am getting a good deal or not on a 2012 E350 Luxury. I am new to buying so not sure. The car has less then 50 miles on it and has a MSRP of $60,395. I got the price down to $50,157.00 Please let me know if you think this is a good deal or not. Thanks for any help.
  • abacomikeabacomike South FloridaPosts: 3,772
    I got the price down to $50,157.00 Please let me know if you think this is a good deal or not. Thanks for any help.

    I am going to assume you are getting a conquest incentive ($4000 or so). Yes, that is an excellent price for a 60K car.

    Good Luck!

    2014 Mercedes Benz CLS 550 - best car ever! 2nd best car ever, my 1967 Corvette Stingray Coupe with 435 hp.

  • ghstudioghstudio Posts: 953
    I wouldn't worry much about even 100 miles on a new car. It's likely that the car was used for some test drives....and test drives really don't tax the car very much at all. As long as it's sold/registered as a new car with the full warranty (less that 100 miles, I guess), I wouldn't sweat it at all if I was getting a great deal on the car I wanted.
  • new_to_enew_to_e Posts: 11
    Thanks so much for the sage advice. I will proceed cautiously and keep checking out other options.
  • new_to_enew_to_e Posts: 11
    Thanks for the input!
  • abacomikeabacomike South FloridaPosts: 3,772
    Thanks so much for the sage advice

    For a 2009 E350 with over 40,000 miles on it, and considering it is the old body style with old technology, you should not pay more than $25,000 including that it is certified by Mercedes and has 4 low mileage tires that are the same brand and size. Remember that the car is 4+ years old. I sold my 2009 E 350 sport with 7000 miles on it in January of 2010 and got $39,000 for it. They had $6000 rebates on those 2009 cars because of the body, transmission and technology upgrades. Most people bought those cars new for $43000 back in April of 2009. So you have to take that into consideration as well!

    2014 Mercedes Benz CLS 550 - best car ever! 2nd best car ever, my 1967 Corvette Stingray Coupe with 435 hp.

  • sksksksksksk Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a 2010 E350 (new shape). I wonder what is a good price to pay for it ? I am in no hurry and can wait , any suggesstions from anyone ?

    If anyone can suggest on negociating on the CPO prices at the dealer , that will help as well.

    Currently the best price I have seen is $41000 for 2010 with 38k miles.
  • abacomikeabacomike South FloridaPosts: 3,772
    2010 E350 with 38,000 miles...

    First of all, make sure the car is certified by Mercedes Benz. Secondly, you should not pay any more than $38,000 for the car. Remember, there is a new engine out in the 2012's. They had tremendous incentives on the 2010 E350, so most people paid about $47,000 new for the car.

    Offer them $36,000 and counter their offer at $38,000.

    Good luck.

    2014 Mercedes Benz CLS 550 - best car ever! 2nd best car ever, my 1967 Corvette Stingray Coupe with 435 hp.

  • art14art14 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the help. I did get the price down some more to $49,700 plus tax and tags. The MSRP is $60,395. Is it still a good price because before I did not mention Tax and Tags. hanks for your help.
  • kevinc5kevinc5 Posts: 204
    Good luck with your new E350. Sounds like a great deal. Where did you get it?
  • That sounds like a really good deal. I thought that the Conquest cash is only $2000. Can you give us a breakdown from $60k to $50k?

    Thanks!
  • new_to_enew_to_e Posts: 11
    Greetings. I'm still looking at a 2009 E350. It's been on the dealer lot for over 45 days. They usually sell their used cars every 16 days, but things are slow here. It's got 42K miles, is not CPO. They are asking $27,879. The dlr registration expires again on 6/30. I'm thinking of making an offer contingent upon a few things. I apologize for the long message, but hopefully folks with different expertise might have a comment. I would appreciate any input.

    I searched the Mbusa site for a comparable vehicle to help me with any price adjustments and come up with an offer. I found a comparable vehicle that:

    1) Is a CPO - (a $1,300 value according to dealer)
    2) has 265 more days of factory warranty (3/4 of a year) - I guestimating is worth about $1,000
    3) has slightly lower miles - $238 Edmunds mileage adjustment.
    4) and is priced $1,100 more than the one I'm looking at

    If I'm calculating things correctly:

    $1,300 + $1,000 + $238 = $2,538 add'l value of the comparable car
    less $1,100 add'l cost of the comparable vehicle
    = $1,438 to reduce the price of the car I'm looking at.

    $27,879 my dealer asking price
    - $1,438 adjustment using comparable
    $26,441

    I'm thinking of offering $25,000. What should I really expect to pay?
    What I don't understand is that the Edmunds trade-in value is shows around $28K. Can I really expect to pay less than that at a dealer?

    And then I’m thinking of adding on a GM Protection Plan Major Guard warranty (hopefully I don't have to pay the tax on it).

    I can get a GMPP through the dealer with 4 year/48,000 miles and $200 deductible for $3,035 (basically same price online). That compares to paying $1,300 for a CPO plus $2,295 for a 2 yr MB extension for only 3 years. Personally I hate the idea of having to entertain a warranty in the first place. It's like having to prepay for expected repairs. If I was in the market for a Honda or Toyota with 80K miles I wouldn't be thinking about a warranty. But, hey, I want an E-350 and I think the look of the W211 is classic.

    They also offer a 5-year tire & wheel warranty for $850. Considering a 3rd party rim is $800 and a factory one is $1500, this sounds tempting considering historic forum posts and NHTSA issues... but I’m not certain this is needed for a 2009?

    The car now has 4 Michelin tires. Two front tires are new. One rear tire has 80% tread, the other rear tire has 50% tread. The dealer is willing to replace the 50% tire with a new one (same brand). It has 45 days left on the original factory warranty. They filled the tank with gas two days earlier. On Sunday we drove it in the service garage but I didn't know where to look to smell for gas to see if the sender unit was leaking. I didn't smell anything, but wasn't sure if I would. They are willing to inspect the sender unit when the mechanics are on duty and I can be there. I have pictures of what one should and should not look like.
    The other weird thing is the interior is beige (ok cashmere) but the floor mats in the trunk are black. Should I get these switched out with another car?

    Thanks for reading through this.
  • abacomikeabacomike South FloridaPosts: 3,772
    2009 E350 at dealership

    $25,000 is a reasonable offer, however they are agreeing to make concessions on their $28800 pricing.

    *offer them $27,500 if they include the new tire, a Mercedes certified used car designation (100,000 miles and 2 year extension), and discover and repair the gas leak/odor. My 2009 had a problem with the same part in the fuel system.

    *if the floor carpeting is black, then the mats should be black. Is this a sport or luxury? If the carpeting is beige, then have them put in the correct front and rear mats.

    I think you are getting too analytical in your decision making process. Do you like the car? Does it drive nicely and handle nicely? Will they allow your own mechanic to look over the car? Will they include everything I have delineated above for $27,500?

    If your answers are YES, then buy the car.

    2014 Mercedes Benz CLS 550 - best car ever! 2nd best car ever, my 1967 Corvette Stingray Coupe with 435 hp.

  • new_to_enew_to_e Posts: 11
    Thanks for the thoughtful response. You nailed me on the analytical part - I'm a researcher by trade.

    It's a luxury sedan. It has the premium command package and sport package. It recently had the 40K mile service completed. I got a print out of all service records from dealer. They agreed to order new beige floor mats & replace the tire. I have a scheduled appointment with their service department on 7/6 to inspect the fuel sender unit and take care of the details.

    I found a certified Mercedes mechanic in town who will also inspect the car & and costs a lot less for service repairs if needed. I understand he can also reset service light.

    I drove it again today and YES! I like the car, I like the way it handles and drives and looks. I like the way the dealer treated me with absolutely no pressure and accommodated all of my requests at the Alderson dealership in Lubbock, TX.

    I have a colleague in town who bought the same vehicle when it was new and hasn't had any problems and referred me to his mechanic.

    I've got a few months factory warranty left. I negotiated a price of $26,600 before TTL no warranty (no doc or inspection fees either). Best I could do.
  • abacomikeabacomike South FloridaPosts: 3,772
    You nailed me on...

    I have a PhD in educational administration and am quite analytical, as you mentioned.

    I would not purchase that car without an extended warranty. Negotiate and see if they will "certify" the car of you gave them another $1200 or so. Bery, very important to keep a Mercedes on warranty if at all possible as they are extremely costly to maintain and repair.

    But, you seem very happy with the car. Just try your best to stay happy by getting the certification or extended warranty!!!

    ENJOY

    2014 Mercedes Benz CLS 550 - best car ever! 2nd best car ever, my 1967 Corvette Stingray Coupe with 435 hp.

  • new_to_enew_to_e Posts: 11
    I wil do that (i.e. negotiate on the 'certify' part). Right now I'm negotiating with my husband to see how much I'll let him drive it ;)
  • new_to_enew_to_e Posts: 11
    Just got back from the dealer. The CarFax showed the vehicle manufactured July 08 and delivered to the dealer in August 08 where it had been used as a demo vehicle for about 8K miles. Everyone assumed that it was put into service in Aug 08 and the factory warranty would expire soon. Evidently as long as the miles aren't too high the dealer does not have to put it into service until it was leased in October 09. The car was returned to the same dealer so it didn't go to auction after the lease was up.

    So we discovered the car still has factory warranty for another 14 months or 8,000 miles (that will come up first). No extra charge. So I have some time to get to know the car before having to decide if I need/want to buy an extended warranty. Guess you could say I'm a happy gal.
  • abacomikeabacomike South FloridaPosts: 3,772
    CARFAX showed...

    That's what is most important. BUT, you have negotiating power now! You won't once you buy the car! See what they will do about getting the car certified. I'm just trying to get you to see the importance of that extended warranty!!!

    2014 Mercedes Benz CLS 550 - best car ever! 2nd best car ever, my 1967 Corvette Stingray Coupe with 435 hp.

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