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Imendetta- Here's a direct link to the VW Ignition coil problems discussion where you can get clarification on the matter. Also, be sure to read my post #115 in that discussion... and others to follow.
Others here may have more to add. Good luck in finding a solution. And please keep us posted on your situation. Thanks for your participation.
Revka
Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons
I still own an 84 Rabbit GTI and just had all 4 of my engine mounts replaced due to the same problem you are describing. The difference was amazing! No more dash rattles or popping and a much more solid feel from the front end. The car feels new again! Anyway, have your mounts looked at, especially if you have higher mileage. Good luck and let us know what you find out.
1. Use fresh air (not recirculate), turn the AC on, close all vents completely (if possible, if not, close them as much as you can), turn the heat on all the way up, and turn the fan on high. Exit the car and let it run like this for about 10 minutes. Supposedly, the hot dry air will kill the mildew and get rid of the smell.
2. Close all vents, turn the fan on medium and use fresh air. Open the hood and spray a lot of lysol directly into the opening where air enters the interior (usually at the top of the firewall on the passenger side). Than turn the fan off and allow it to sit. The lysol apparently kills the mildew, but you must be able to stand the strong lysol smell. If you are mechanically inclined and really want to get to the source of the problem, you could try to get to the evaporator core (located behind the center of the dash, accessed via the passenger footwell.) and spray lysol directly on it.
I can't guarantee either one will work, but they have worked on other cars. Good luck!
What should he do?
thanks
Anyways, where can I get another, and is it difficult to install?
Blessings,
Ed
We called the Road Assistance # and they told us to lock and unlock the driver side door manually about 15-20 times. Then wait 15 minutes and go out and manually unlock and lock it again. After that, they said it should start.
Well, it didn't. We ran through that drill again a few times but nothing worked. We also tried to jump it but got nothing.
We left it there till the next day and went back out and tried that drill again. Again nothing. I was just about to punch in the radio code (as I was out of ideas) and all the sudden the interior lights came on. Then, after clicking the exterior lights on and off, the car finally started.
We got the car back to our house and have not been using the key locks since saturday. We plan to take it back to the dealer to get looked at this week.
I just wanted to see if anyone has expereinced this problem though and what, if anything, can I do about it. Is there anything I should know before taking it back to the dealer?
Thanks. Mattwil
If this is a manual transmission car, it will have a clutch interlock, which would not allow it to be started in gear unless the clutch pedal is depressed. If it is an automatic, it would have to be in park or neutral. If this car truly starts and stops by itself, the only explanation is some bizarre intermittent malfunction in the starter switch. Anyway, this is a serious safety issue and I would not drive such a car.
I'd very much like to get the history of the service of the car, and get it from an unbiased source or from the original owner.
Would VOA have a record of warranty/TSB related work done on the car if I provided the VIN?
Thanks
John
Please feel free to also join us in our main VW New Beetle discussion. We look forward to hearing all about your ownership experience. Happy motoring!
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
I know this hasn't been talked about in a while, but as far as the oil consumption problem goes, my 2000 beetle was consuming from 1/2 to 1 quart for 1000 miles (my car currently has 55,000 miles). After having the dealer monitor the consumption for about a year, they agreed to replace the rings under the 100,000 powertrain warranty. So for those of you having the problem I would recommend having the consumption monitored by the dealer (don't top it off yourself!).
Also, for power fluctuations on the highway, at around 100 mph I get a decrease in power and engine noise lowers for about 1,5-2 seconds, no "check engine" indicator comes on and than it goes back to normal. Their computer cannot detect the problem (too sporadic/untestable) and we guess it is the master air flow. What do you think? Can I end up in the middle of the road on the way to NYC with car failures because of this? It scares me since this seems like a heavy problem.
Thanks
As for the gas release, it sounds like an eletrical gremlin in the switch or wiring. VWs are known for little electrical problems. There isn't anything you can do to fix it unless it breaks completely and they can find out the culprit.
This is the first import car I've ever owned, and I'll never own another german car again. I have never spent this much money on any vehicle I've ever owned (all american - mostly Ford).
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
The service manager at the dealership immediately concluded that since it is a wear item it's not covered by warranty. When the car was sold the warranty was represented as "bumper to bumper". Of course they were going to mail me a copy of the warranty document. I haven't seen it yet. I can only blame my own stupidity for falling for that one. I questioned how the clutch failed so soon. The dealership's position was that the car was driven improperly. That's odd, since both my daughter and I have been driving our other car that has a manual transmission with no ill effect. Additionally,in Connecticut, state law requires a 60 day or 3000 mile used car warranty against any mechanical failure in a vehicle which costs $5,000 or more. Repairs are supposed to be made by the selling dealership at no charge.
The dealer proposed a compromise. Repair at their cost, $857 some compromise. By the way that is not cost. Their cost on the parts is around $400 and they could have a tech do the work when their shop is not loaded.
I have three concerns.
1) Volkswagen of America refuses to get involved to help protect a consumer of their product.
2.) Bill Barry, the dealer principal, is ethically challenged and VOA apparently doesn't care. The guy wouldn' even return my telephone call until I made it clear I would file a complaint with DMV.
3.) Certification is smoke and mirrors. What about the next thing that breaks?
My solution. I have instituted a small claims lawsuit against the dealer. I also named Volkswagen of America as co defendant. I have subpeonaed the dealer, his service and sales managers and the Volkswagen Zone Manager.
My worst case scenario is that at least I'll have the satisfaction of costing them a lot of time and negative publicity.
I will never purchase a Volkswagen again. I'm trading this one in against a a Honda fairly soon.
BTW: Did you actually get a lawyer that would handle the case?
In all honesty, your beef should be with the dealer and the former owner, not VW. A good dealer would offer to fix the car for the cost of the parts only, as a good will gesture. I don't think you should blame VW and vow never to buy their cars again due to abuse caused by a former owner. I wish you luck in your repair, but take this experience as a lesson to make sure you understand what "bumper-to-bumper" means.
I bought a new Volkswagen Quantum in 1986 - a piece of crap. Had four speedometers replaced in it before the car hit 6K miles. They kept putting defective rebuilt ones in. The car started loosing power after 3K miles, VW never fixed it under warranty, treated me like dirt, and refused to buy the car back. I have not bought another VW since and likely will never buy one again. I know exactly what some of the people go through with their problematic VW cars.
Any suggestions? Fuse, relay?
JED
Has anyone else had this problem??
My daughters 98 Beetle has a problem at about 65mph the speedometer starts bouncing around between 60 and 70 (even if we continue to increase the speed to over 80. Obviously when we engage the cruise control it goes crazy in a similar fashion. The car sat at the dealer for almost a month they claim they can't see anything wrong at low speeds and aren't allow to test drive at high speeds.
From what I have read it is probably the instrument cluster, which would be easy enough to replace (although I don't know how I would set the odometer assuming I could find a new one). Or the speed sensor, which is less expensive but I havent been able to physically find on the car.
One of the problems she has with the car is that the only indications on the speedometer or in 10 MPH increments (nothing at 5 15 etc except at 55). So I am thinking I should replace the cluster first and at least get one that has better markings. I am guessing I have to buy that from a dealer as an internet search turns up only unknown status used ones on ebay.
This is a 2.0L 1998 VW beetle with about 36k miles on it. Anybody have any similar experience or recommendations. Thanks.
Hey you VW NBturbo (GLS, GLX, S) folks out there. How do you like your cars? Anyone got one in a 5(6)-speed? Can you recommend these new buggies even with their less-than-stellar reliability issues?
I hear (pardon the pun) that the factory audio is no good. True?
How's the gas mileage?
You can get a new 03 Mustang Cobra convertible with a 390 HP supercharged V8 and 6 speed for $ 35 K even. There is a $ 1500 rebate on it and some dealers are discounting the left-over 03s to the invoice price minus the rebate. The 35K sale price includes the $ 1000 gas guzzler tax. So the price is actually $ 34K.
Just some food for thought. The Cobra's transmission is built in Mexico, but the engine is hand assembled by a two man team in the US, so this should be the best part of the car. I guess what I am trying to say is that the new Beetle convertible price is absolutely outrageous for a small, shoddily assembled, Mexican built subcompact.
Try to find a new German car with a 390 HP engine for $ 35K! They will laugh at you.
And Cobra's resale value will definitely be far better than that of the Beetle, not to mention the fun factor.
that sits in the garage until it's needed! Reliable, and good on gas. Standard trans. (maybe
auto). Price range, year 2000 or 2001.
Never owned a VW, just sold a Mercedes SLK!!!!
What problem areas should I look for or are there
any with this model? Do I want a diesel?
I do all the work I can on my vehicles, so minor
maintance is ok.
I'm a Toyota/Honda fan, do I WANT a VW beetle?
Mick
Matt
Jeremy
While on the freeway at around 80miles/hour, for about 1.5 - 2 secs, I feel a sudden loss of power after which the car kicks back in gear and I can
feel the engine as if it chokes and comes back to normal. No warning lights, or anything.
Same thing while I upshift to the 2nd. I cannot figure it out for the life of me. How do you diagnose such a problem? What do you do, go to the dealer and be open to charges of all sorts while they figure out what is wrong?
Please guys, if any ideas, give me a hint. It doesn't sound like a coil problem neither does it sound like a spark plug issue. Fuel pump filter?
Fuel itself?(tried premium, no change!)
Any guess?
Jeremy
Had a 1966 bug back in the day..sunroof was manual...everything worked beautifully...so much for electricity and progress.. HAS ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCED THIS CRAP!!!!