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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair



  • marvinrmarvinr Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 new beetle VW has no working back-up lights. I am looking for the fuse box and as of yet I have had no luck finding it. Any suggestions would be appreciated
  • jackies1819jackies1819 Member Posts: 1
    Sorry if this is too novice of a question, but I'd like to switch the shifter knob in my 2001 Bug and have tried to get off the old knob, but am afraid to crack or otherwise break the thing off.

    Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Thanks

  • g2floridag2florida Member Posts: 1
    i am hoping someone out there can help me... i have a 2000 beetle w/ 40,000m. about a month ago i woke to find that sometime during the night my stereo had come on by itself while the car was shut off. i turned it off but then later that day it happened again while i was at work. i called the dealership & they said they had only had ONE other car with this issue: a 2004 convertible beetle. the dealership told me that they never established what was causing this & to try making sure my stereo was off prior to turning off the car. & for a month this worked. then while driving to work this morning my stereo shut off by itself & would not turn back on. i even turned off & restarted the car. nothing. then about 20minutes later the stereo came on by itself while the was off & locked up.
    Has any had or heard of anything like this?! PLEASE help!
    -g2 :confuse: ">
  • jevans1jevans1 Member Posts: 1
    I've had a good laugh reading some of these all too familiar posts and wish I read this forum before buying my 99 used new beetle from carmax in December. I've had starting problems, keyless entry problems, battery problems, and the handle falls off every other time I push the seat forward to access the back seat for my kids (I feel kind of like George Bailey) but now, in addition to the sticky shifting, and sad sad first gear pick up, my possessed little clown car, as I drive - fast or slow- intermittently makes the beeping noise a car makes when the keys are in the ignition and the door is open - really loud. The interior lights go on with the noise. Sometimes the lights flash while I'm driving. This problem started a week or so ago. About 2 months ago, I stupidly locked my keys in the car, putting groceries away, and even more stupidly, allowed a very determined man to help the police open my door. (It was very hot and I had my 2 young kids with me.) After about a half hour! they managed to get into the car by wedging open the driver's side door and pushing in the unlock button with a long metal rod, which resulted in scratching the red metal, the plastic, disabling my automatic locks, my keyless entry, the interior light on the driver's side doesn't go on when the door opens anymore, and starting a new problem with my alarm going off randomly. Of course I take responsibility for letting them do this and given the chance to do it again, I'd call a locksmith, but I think this may have something to do with the car's current confusion about the door being open. That, or something is horribly wrong with the car and it's just beeping at me instead of showing an idiot light. Last week I took it to get an oil change - a little late, after 3500 miles, and I had to sign a waiver because the dipstick showed no oil. Geesh. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding the beeping? I guess I just have to take it in - but I'm broke and putting it off. I wish I bought an old Corrola. :sick:
  • pinkbugpinkbug Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 bug I had painted pink which I love to death, the problem is my air compresspor started knocking today and I pulled over and checked my car and under the hood my car was smoking, andeverytime I replace the left tail light it goes out in like 5 minutes, and the truck no longer opens! Anyone with information please let me know!
    Thanks, Natalie
  • vwdavevwdave Member Posts: 1
    I replaced mind on 2000 Beetle without going to dealer...went to Autozone... did it without special tools.... Remove plastic round panel inside vehicle with srewdriver.... Unscrew knob on threaded rod. Twist entire tail light housing from outside to loosen it ... Took little effort to work it lose...twisted it counterclockwise and pulled out .... cannot pull it straight out.. theres a little slot on the body that has to align with taillight assembly before it can pull out... Once out changing bulb is quick and easily.... putting back in was very easy.. $5 for two bulbs is all it cost.
  • js3906js3906 Member Posts: 1
    purchased this vehicle used, vw certified pre-owned on March 15,2005. Love the car, always have loved Beetles. Anyway, the 1) check engine light came on about 10 days after I bought it. Brought it back to the dealership, 02 sensor was bad. Replaced it. Problem solved. Nope, it wasn't.2) 2 weeks later, light came back on. Replaced 02 sensor again and glued the housing in place?. Maybe the sensor was bad. Ok, fair enough. 3) 2 weeks later, light came back on. 02 sensor and crimped wire. Ok, but, now kinda getting a little put out. 4) Light came back on 1 day after having it out of the shop. Back in to be told, again..02 sensor. But,. they kept the car for 2 days to give it a once over. Drove the car for almost 2.5 weeks (whew-problem solved) nope, light back on again. 5) Kept car for 5 days. 02 sensor and another sensor replaced. Told problem was solved. 6) Drove car for 7 days. Light came back on. Back to the dealership. Ok, now I am pretty hacked. They kept the car for 10 days. Replaced the computer, 02 sensor, re wired. Basically put all new stuff in (or so they say). Drove car for 3.5 weeks. Yeah!!!
    7) Light came back on. No one can tell me what the problem is and since it is warranty work, I was told that my car was not high on the list to get looked at because they have other cars they need to work on too. It has been 6 days since I left my car with them (scheduled an appt and everything) and was told again, we still don't know what it wrong. :lemon: I am really hacked off. I want my money back and told the dealership that. The GM was a jerk and the service consultant is not helpful at all. I never get a call regarding my car, even after I request them to call me. I emailed the customer CARE area for volkswagen, hopefully I will hear something back in the next couple of days.
  • dodgedudedodgedude Member Posts: 17
    I'm not sure how the lemon laws work where you live, nor would I know how they would apply to a used car purchase. However, here in NC, if they attempt to fix the same problem several times (I think it's 4 or 5 times) and it is still not fixed, you can get your money refunded through the lemon law. I have a friend who had a 3-year old Malibu that had been taken to the dealer 6 times for brake work and they still could not fix it. She hired an attorney and GM bought her car back from her AND paid all of her attorney fees. My neighbor just had his Saturn L300 taken back through the lemon law (transmission) and now drives a brand new Saturn Vue V6 (loaded) and didn't have to pay a penny out of his pocket. Sounds like you may have a lemon on your hands. It might not hurt for you to contact a lawyer and see if you have a case.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    The fuse box is normally located on the left side of the dash (the drivers door needs to be open to access it) - check the owner's manual for the location and the fuse box diagram. One fuse may operate several items.

    If you do find the fuse, and it's in tact, the more likely culprit would be a malfunctioning back-up light sensor located on the transmission. The sensor only activates when the transmission is in reverse.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Actually, it is a backup light switch, not a sensor. Just about every car has one of those. I had one go bad in a 1992 Mazda Protege.
  • max24max24 Member Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone!
    I just bought a used new beetle year-2000.
    I am having all kinds of problems with the air not working.
    I have taken it to the mechanic three times: twice to the guy referred to me by the dealership and the third time to a German Car expert ( yeah, right? )
    Anyway, the first mechanic said it was a short, which he fixed but then soon after it was not working again.
    The German car expert kept the car for over a week. Said he did not know what was wrong with it. He had checked the compressor but it was working fine and that the car was full of freon so he could not figure out what the problem was.
    He even brought in a friends New beetle to compare it to and still did not know what the problem was. I am frustrated here and because it is a used car, this is all out of pocket expenses for me.
    any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    You could have coolant contamination of the A/C compressor clutch harness. This will not allow sufficient currect to pass through to the compressor clutch coil, making compressor operation intermittent. Just one possibility.
  • whit3whit3 Member Posts: 1
    installed new contact points, condenser , now when I try to start engine, points get hot and melt, have checked for shortage in distributor, check o.k., can anyboy help ? (1971 model)
  • davek70davek70 Member Posts: 2
    On my 2001 New Beetle, my left rear brake light doesn't work. Changed the bulb and the tail light works (indicating the bulb is ok), but the brake light doesn't work when the brake pedal is pressed. The right one works, so I'm thinking it's the wiring. Any suggestions on how to fix?
  • davek70davek70 Member Posts: 2
    On my 2001 Beetle, when I shift from reverse into drive, if I don't
    pause at Neutral first, then there is a hesitation before the car engages
    in drive. If I pause at neutral, then go into drive, it's fine. Could
    this be a transmission issue?
  • tarrant2003tarrant2003 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 vw beetle with a center tail light that flashes when I brake.
    When you press the brake pedal, the two rear tail lights on the sides of the car remain illuminated as long as there is pressure on the brake pedal. The center tail light flashes 6 times for each press on the pedal.
    I'm just imagining the light constantly flashing in stop and go traffic when I hit the brake frequently... it has to drive the person behind me crazy.
    Any ideas what the problem is? :confuse:
  • sprockethead1sprockethead1 Member Posts: 1
    My beetle alarm is going off periodically for about 45 seconds. It happens without provocation. Has anyone had this problem? or, does anyone know how to turn off the alarm without leaving the car unlocked?
  • mec51mec51 Member Posts: 3
    hello all i have a 1999 beetle automatic trans 2.0 it will shift fine one day and the next day it wont come out of first gear i can only do about 45 mph i took it to a transmission shop and thay told me that the trans is fine that there is a eletrical problem some where and it would be better to take it to a VW dealer but the VW dealer sucks in my town does anyone know how to fix this problem please please help me thank you nelson
  • whitecdwhitecd Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had this experience? All three of my brake lights quit working. The tail lights work, so I know the bulbs are okay, but no additional lighting when I press on the brake. I checked the fuses and the switch under the brake pedal and everything looks fine. Any suggestions?
  • placeplace Member Posts: 1
    Ihave the"enginelight"nightmare with my 2000NewBeetle 1.8 turboglx.
    Ihave gone through each and every painful step that you have with no resolution.
    I don't have a clue...does anyone out there? My car has been garaged,well caredfor,no abuse,origional owner.My car has 23,400 miles.
    This is the second "round" for me.The first engine light scenerio was "solved" by putting in a new air-flow condensor...although the car had aproximately 12,000 miles on it at the time, the warranty had expired due to time rather than mileage.The dealer,"Baron Volkswagon,Shawnee Mission,Kansas would not assist me in any way with this.I called Volkswagon Customer Care...three times and no resolution at all.Here I am with the engine light problem again!!!
    The engine light reappeared approximately 200 miles previously.The car completely died.I paid bucks to have the beast towed.I was told it was as simple as the battery.A quality battery was replaced. Two weeks later and three trips to the "german car mechanic"-not the dealer...same light and no one has a clue.
    I need help...please.
    I read a previous message with mention of the "Lemon Law".What steps are involved?
    Thank you.

  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I just had my MIL (Engine light) come on this past weekend in my '04.5 Passat. I was still able to drive my car, but it ended up being the N80 Valve. Good luck!!
  • gigglalotgigglalot Member Posts: 1
    I bought this silver beetle on Monday, today is Thursday, and I have had it to drive a total of 1 day. :mad: It has been in the shop SINCE I BOUGHT IT BRAND NEW!

    The first day it ran great, I put 15 mi on it and drive around, got some flowers for the vase. Then the next day at work, I started the car to go to lunch, it moved an inch, and then died, the engine cut off, the stereo stayed on. This happened to me 4 times in a row. So I called road side assistance. When they get there, it starts, I drive around my works parking lot, so I send him packing and leave my car there, an hour later on break I took it for a drive, it did it again, so I took it to the dealer.

    The dealer says, we think its the battery, we will replace it, they replace it, I wait for an hour, then it comes out, drives fine, take it home, next morning, dead again, starts right back up. So I took it back again, and they said they fixed the problem, some jibberish about coolant and a thermometer tricking the car and making it flood gas, and I can pick it up later , he is gonna give it a quick test run to see if everything is working, and so i hear nothing, and call back, he says it died as they drive it off the lot and they are going to check the fuel pump. Its brand new! I JUST bought and have not had it for very long. This is some BS.
  • tuba_jentuba_jen Member Posts: 1
    I just got my 1998 VW Beetle about a week ago, with 82,000 miles on it.
    Unfortunately, the night I brought it home a headlight went out, so my dad had to change it. When he was chaging it it started to rain, and lots of water got into the engine compartment. Later that day when I tried to drive it the check engine light started flashing, and the transmission was missing horribly. We let it sit for a while and then drove it again and it ran fine with no light. Everything ran smoothly for about a week. It rained last night, and now today the check engine light is on again. It seems to be driving okay, although it has a little clicking/thumping noise. I'm still nervous to be driving it though. Does anybody know if the water really might be what's aggravating the light, or is it coincidence? Any ideas?
  • mybeetlemybeetle Member Posts: 1
    :blush: the alarm in my car goes off too.. when its been raining very hard for more then a few hours, and when i go in the car to shut off the alarm, it shows that the trunk is open by the dash board lights, even tho the trunk is not adjar... dealer said they couldnt find any probem :surprise:
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    And you thought I was kidding when I advised people to stay away from VWs: FAR, FAR AWAY! Read some more posts in this forum and then go to www.myvwlemon.com.
  • kusechekuseche Member Posts: 1
    We just bought a 2000 Beetle and knew the brake lights were not working. We, like you, figured it was the fuses. If you get an answer PLEASE email me. :sick:
  • mewildmewild Member Posts: 2
    Me too! Same car , same year, same problem. However, my pass. side is the same way. Did you spray in the WD 40 before the problem or after? I do not know where it is either. I guess it might be part of the latch.
  • mewildmewild Member Posts: 2
    Check with VW dealership! I belive there is a (Recall) on the brake light switch. VW takes care of everything.
  • hittletshittlets Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I have a 2001 Beetle. I am having problems with the factory installed tape deck. What is happening is when I insert the tape that allows me to play my XM radio and Ipod, an error comes up and the tape ejects. This happened a lot over the winter and I thought it was a "cold" thing. I tried changing the cassette, but it still comes up with an error. Nothing seems to help. It used to be that after fighting with the cassette deck long enough (inserting the tape after it was ejected), the tape would play. Not it doesn't play anymore.

    Has anyone experience this or know of a way to fix the tape deck?

    Thanks for your help.
  • kim727kim727 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Beetle has only 34,000 miles on it - and I think I'm hearing the brakes screach alittle at stop signs. Is this normal for them to be replaced at only 34,000 miles? ">
  • mark1965mark1965 Member Posts: 1

    My wife was driving her 2004 NB on the freeway when it began to lose forward momentum and began coasting to a halt. Engine ran fine, but car would not continue going forward. She turned off AC, and it the transaxle seemed to "come back" for a few miles, but then faded again after a short while. Again, the engine was rev-ing just fine. She thought she heard a loud noise up front the last time the transaxle "stalled." We had it towed to delaer, and they can find no codes with the engine or transmission, it drives for them, passes shift checks, and they can not recreate the condition. Any ideas? All electrical functions seemed fine when I got to her on the side of the road yesterday, and the engine started just fine. Thanks for your help!
  • anita_083anita_083 Member Posts: 8
    Hi everyone,

    So I just bought a used 99 GLS beetle three days ago and I've already had some problems :sick: . Typically on short distance driving when I press the brake, it started making noise (grinding) and I can feel some thumping on my brake pedal. The worst part is that the noise is followed with the sound of a loose spring being pressed and released. The weird part is that it only happens on short distance and low speed driving and it happens more often on occassions where I just start the car after having not driven it for a night. After speeding up and driving the car for a good amount of time (half an hour or more), the problem disappears.

    My mechanic told me it might be an ABS problem but I am not sure if he is aware of what I was talking about. We test-drove it and for some weird reason the noise did not come up, so he was not convinced about it. Does anyone share similar experience and any suggestions about this? Thanks!
  • jaguar27jaguar27 Member Posts: 4
    My Wife's 2000 had a similar problem, except none of the Stop Lights would work, in this case it was the Solenoid...in your case it seems like you have a loose wire somewhere...
  • jaguar27jaguar27 Member Posts: 4
    Hello everyone, I'm a Newbie here, just wondering whether anyone has any experience with the 06 Rag Top?? I see they've made some Body changes, the Fenders, front and Rear Bumpers mainly, also, they now have the i5 Cylinder Motor, which delivers 150hp and by all accounts is much smoother...??
    The reason I'm asking is that my Wife has a 2000 GLS and she loves it, she just wants a Rag Top...I didn't even know VW had made all those changes on the 06(The interior is much different too) untill we went to the Dealership to buy one today...
    Incidentally, they only had two in stock, kind of a Dark Pewter/Silver color with black interior and a 1 Package, which includes the Power Top, Electric Seats, upgraded sound system and a Wind deflector....which apparently is essential at freeway speeds....
    One thing is Bugging me (excuse the Pun), my Wife's Beetle is as-new, very low smileage,(She only drives 4 miles to work) new Tires a couple of months ago, Dealer maintained etc etc...I hate to Give it away to the Dealer...
    Anyway, back to the reason for my Post...anyone any thoughts on the new 06 Convertible?
  • jaguar27jaguar27 Member Posts: 4
    The same thing happened to my Wife's 2000 Beetle, it was the Solenoid...a cheap part, you just have to find out where it is, it's normally a little black Plastic Box that Plugs in....ours was fixed under warranty so I can't help you locate it unfortunately....
  • jaguar27jaguar27 Member Posts: 4
    34K is pretty good for a set of Brakes, especially if you do a lot of stop/start driving....it could just need new Pads??
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I had a similar problem with Nissan Maxima. Light application of brakes resulted in this grinding noise. Heavy braking was normal. The brake pads were contaminated with wax from using car wash soap. Replacing the pads and sanding the brake rotors with 100 grit sandpaper took care of the problem for good.
  • anita_083anita_083 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks p100, I've brought it to the mechanic so I really do hope its only a brake pad problem.
  • anita_083anita_083 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone know whats a "normal" range of mpg for Beetle automatic? I have a 99 GLS and its drinking gas like there is no tomorrow .... I drive in highways and my Beetle can only go up to 24mpg, which I think is pretty bad comparing to the Honda accord I used to drive. I am thinking of tuning up the engine, but I am not too sure that will help either. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance :shades:
  • sector1sector1 Member Posts: 22
    99 New beetle. 117.000km, manual.
    Mass Air Flow Meter replaced under warranty extension.I replaced the pre catalyst oxygen sensor 2 days ago myself. Engine runs like new. But:

    At 80mph on the freeway, my engine looses all power for a second or a second and 1/2, only to kick back in gear with a kick in the seat. 3rd time in 2 days and it only happened 3 times in 2 years I had the car, before the oxygen sensor replacement. I replaced the sensor since it was diagnosed faulty, the car gulped gas and I was lacking power.

    What is your advice here folks because my guess is ...electrical but i don't know where. The problem is in the 5th speed only. It is not of steady reocurrence but random and there never was
    any "CHECK ENGINE" light any time this happened, before or after the MAF or Oxygen sensor replacement.

    If you can picture my dilemma give me a hint please, I don't know where to start.
  • sector1sector1 Member Posts: 22
    Anita, there may be many causes for the car eating so much gas. First it is the Mass Air Flow Sensor. If faulty, it can work randomly and open the valves at times not needed and make the engine consume. Oxygen sensors, are another cause but this is only if the car has been on the road for some miles and a couple of years. One thing certain is that the advertised mpg on the decker sticker when you buy it is not going to be matched by your car. Meaning Beetles consume more. The engines are oil guzzlers also because this is how they were engineered and they consume oil that passes in the catalyst and damages it in the long run.
    What exactly do you mean by "tuning up the engine"? Be careful, you can open youself to unpredicted costs that tont really tackle the core of your problem. You must find out where the problem lies but do that with a mechanic friend. Meaning someone you know who is competent and wont fry your wallet in diagnosis labour hours. Going to the dealer for this type of problem makes you prone to all kinds of unneccesary costs.
  • vw18t1vw18t1 Member Posts: 4
    I do have a 2001 1.8t Beetle...i have had so many problems with it. My beetle has been to the dealship for service i think about 9 times already and going again this week. these are the problems i have/had:
    1. waste gate had to be replaced . They sold me the car that way thinking i was a chick and i wouldnt know....well i do mechanical work on my car and i knew something wasnt right, and that was just the begining.
    2. The gas lid wouldnt open everytime i needed gas i actually had to pry it open. Wow was that interesting.
    3. I have this weird rubbing noise in my front end. I had it to be "serviced" 7 times already and going on #8. They claimed at first it was my A/C compressor and harness. They replaced it and still made the noise. Took it there again and they replaced the sway bar bushing. Yea u guessed it still broke. And know they say they cant fix because they dont know whats wrong with it. I love those Vw service guys. ( can u tell im pissed by now)
    4. I would go get gas and same grade same amt. when gas prices were the same and the pump would stop at $18 when i know my car would take $26. When i turned the car on it would only read 3/4 full. I had to take it there twice for that and finally was fixed.
  • vw18t1vw18t1 Member Posts: 4
    I did post a message here yesterday about my 2001 1.8t new beetle. I am having this really bad rubbing noise in my front end. It only happens when it wants to basically. I can feel it when im driving and I can definately hear it. It gets louder the more i drive my car. I have also had many many other problems with this car already in the 6 months ive had it. It is used but only had 53000 miles on it. :( I have taken it to my VW dealership and they have "tried" to fix it 7 times already. Now they tell me they cant fix it. They dont know what the noise is, they say it also maybe my tires but i know they're not because i rotated them and i still have the noise in the front end. Please help!!!!!!
  • sector1sector1 Member Posts: 22
    Please be specific, I will try to help you. Where do you hear the noise? Front left, right, under your feet, or where? Is it at high or low speeds? While braking or while coasting? Do you hear it more at certain times or is it random?
    What king of noise? Rubbing like rubber or grinding like metals or is it squeaking ...?
    Is it occuring at bumps or while the car shakes (i.e. while stopping/accelerating suddenly?)
    Is it at certain speeds, while cornering? Try testing the car for the above situations observe those detais and come back and tell me. We'll figure it out.
  • vw18t1vw18t1 Member Posts: 4
    the noise is coming from both sides in the front end...and the noise is more of a rubbing its not a gringing noise nor a squeaking noise...honestly its hard to explain the only way i could basically explain it is say if you put 20's on a beetle and u know that they would rub against you wheel well.....its kind of like that but i can feel it on the drivers side when im driving....the noise also happens whenever it wants to...lately its been doing it more and louder...it seems to keep getting worse
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Have you checked the engine bottom splash shield for proper installation? It could be improperly installed and rubbing on the rotating axles.
  • sector1sector1 Member Posts: 22
    Ok, I have an idea of what this might be. The most often cause of this noise are the front
    stabilizer bar bushings. They wear out rapidly or the correct way to say this, they dry out rapidly, may it be hot or cold weather and this happens over some time. Unscrewing them and greasing them with high temperature grease is a temporary solution, replacing them is the most common and lasts longer than the first suggestion.
    The other one could be the Control Arm Rear Mounting Bushings. They are puck round shaped, they are under your seat (and passenger's) and they crerate this noise. In order to take them out, an automotive machine press is required. I have replaced both of the stabilizer bar bushings and the control arm ones. I have yet to find a dealer mechanic who would diagnose the control arm bushing noise properly.
    Now, you cannot perform either of the replacement operations and i suggest you take the problem to a repair shop since the car has to be on a lift to be worked on.
    But, and listen to this... do not go to that shop before doing this:

    Make some friend locate all 4 bushings, lift the car on 2 jacks and apply lots of WD40 on both the first set. After 2 weeks on the rear set. Why? Because you will grease the bushings and drive the car and see if you still hear the noise. If not, your problem is solved by elimination, the bushings you greased must be replaced. After this go to the dealer, point them out and get them to replace them without their input, discussion or any other fuss. Tell them the Nike slogan "Just do it". If greasing them does not eliminate the noise, the problem is something else.

    I hope this helps. Oh and by the way, first replacement is 15$ in parts and 45 minutes labour, and the second one is one hour overall (do not let them fool you at one hour each side, that's b.s.) and around 15$ per bushing for the parts. Assist them when they repair the car. You are to watch the mechanic and say nothing (do not be in his way) and prevent him loosing his time and charging you for it. Needless to say don't leave the car in their hands for an undetermined period of time. They are EXPERTS at stealing and lying their way around the clients.If dealership refuses to let you in the garage, do the repair where they allow you to watch.

    Cheers and let me know how this goes! :)
  • sector1sector1 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks to all for the many repair suggestions. That WAS irony since I got NONE. I found the problem and fixed it. Car runs ok now.
  • vw18t1vw18t1 Member Posts: 4
    Thank-You so much....I will definately try what you said and I'll let you know what happens. :D
  • firebug2firebug2 Member Posts: 4
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