Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Thanks
Jackie
Has any had or heard of anything like this?! PLEASE help!
-g2 :confuse: ">
Thanks, Natalie
7) Light came back on. No one can tell me what the problem is and since it is warranty work, I was told that my car was not high on the list to get looked at because they have other cars they need to work on too. It has been 6 days since I left my car with them (scheduled an appt and everything) and was told again, we still don't know what it wrong. :lemon: I am really hacked off. I want my money back and told the dealership that. The GM was a jerk and the service consultant is not helpful at all. I never get a call regarding my car, even after I request them to call me. I emailed the customer CARE area for volkswagen, hopefully I will hear something back in the next couple of days.
If you do find the fuse, and it's in tact, the more likely culprit would be a malfunctioning back-up light sensor located on the transmission. The sensor only activates when the transmission is in reverse.
I just bought a used new beetle year-2000.
I am having all kinds of problems with the air not working.
I have taken it to the mechanic three times: twice to the guy referred to me by the dealership and the third time to a German Car expert ( yeah, right? )
Anyway, the first mechanic said it was a short, which he fixed but then soon after it was not working again.
The German car expert kept the car for over a week. Said he did not know what was wrong with it. He had checked the compressor but it was working fine and that the car was full of freon so he could not figure out what the problem was.
He even brought in a friends New beetle to compare it to and still did not know what the problem was. I am frustrated here and because it is a used car, this is all out of pocket expenses for me.
any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated.
pause at Neutral first, then there is a hesitation before the car engages
in drive. If I pause at neutral, then go into drive, it's fine. Could
this be a transmission issue?
When you press the brake pedal, the two rear tail lights on the sides of the car remain illuminated as long as there is pressure on the brake pedal. The center tail light flashes 6 times for each press on the pedal.
I'm just imagining the light constantly flashing in stop and go traffic when I hit the brake frequently... it has to drive the person behind me crazy.
Any ideas what the problem is? :confuse:
Ihave gone through each and every painful step that you have with no resolution.
I don't have a clue...does anyone out there? My car has been garaged,well caredfor,no abuse,origional owner.My car has 23,400 miles.
This is the second "round" for me.The first engine light scenerio was "solved" by putting in a new air-flow condensor...although the car had aproximately 12,000 miles on it at the time, the warranty had expired due to time rather than mileage.The dealer,"Baron Volkswagon,Shawnee Mission,Kansas would not assist me in any way with this.I called Volkswagon Customer Care...three times and no resolution at all.Here I am with the engine light problem again!!!
The engine light reappeared approximately 200 miles previously.The car completely died.I paid bucks to have the beast towed.I was told it was as simple as the battery.A quality battery was replaced. Two weeks later and three trips to the "german car mechanic"-not the dealer...same light and no one has a clue.
I need help...please.
I read a previous message with mention of the "Lemon Law".What steps are involved?
Thank you.
Place
The first day it ran great, I put 15 mi on it and drive around, got some flowers for the vase. Then the next day at work, I started the car to go to lunch, it moved an inch, and then died, the engine cut off, the stereo stayed on. This happened to me 4 times in a row. So I called road side assistance. When they get there, it starts, I drive around my works parking lot, so I send him packing and leave my car there, an hour later on break I took it for a drive, it did it again, so I took it to the dealer.
The dealer says, we think its the battery, we will replace it, they replace it, I wait for an hour, then it comes out, drives fine, take it home, next morning, dead again, starts right back up. So I took it back again, and they said they fixed the problem, some jibberish about coolant and a thermometer tricking the car and making it flood gas, and I can pick it up later , he is gonna give it a quick test run to see if everything is working, and so i hear nothing, and call back, he says it died as they drive it off the lot and they are going to check the fuel pump. Its brand new! I JUST bought and have not had it for very long. This is some BS.
Unfortunately, the night I brought it home a headlight went out, so my dad had to change it. When he was chaging it it started to rain, and lots of water got into the engine compartment. Later that day when I tried to drive it the check engine light started flashing, and the transmission was missing horribly. We let it sit for a while and then drove it again and it ran fine with no light. Everything ran smoothly for about a week. It rained last night, and now today the check engine light is on again. It seems to be driving okay, although it has a little clicking/thumping noise. I'm still nervous to be driving it though. Does anybody know if the water really might be what's aggravating the light, or is it coincidence? Any ideas?
Has anyone experience this or know of a way to fix the tape deck?
Thanks for your help.
My wife was driving her 2004 NB on the freeway when it began to lose forward momentum and began coasting to a halt. Engine ran fine, but car would not continue going forward. She turned off AC, and it the transaxle seemed to "come back" for a few miles, but then faded again after a short while. Again, the engine was rev-ing just fine. She thought she heard a loud noise up front the last time the transaxle "stalled." We had it towed to delaer, and they can find no codes with the engine or transmission, it drives for them, passes shift checks, and they can not recreate the condition. Any ideas? All electrical functions seemed fine when I got to her on the side of the road yesterday, and the engine started just fine. Thanks for your help!
So I just bought a used 99 GLS beetle three days ago and I've already had some problems :sick: . Typically on short distance driving when I press the brake, it started making noise (grinding) and I can feel some thumping on my brake pedal. The worst part is that the noise is followed with the sound of a loose spring being pressed and released. The weird part is that it only happens on short distance and low speed driving and it happens more often on occassions where I just start the car after having not driven it for a night. After speeding up and driving the car for a good amount of time (half an hour or more), the problem disappears.
My mechanic told me it might be an ABS problem but I am not sure if he is aware of what I was talking about. We test-drove it and for some weird reason the noise did not come up, so he was not convinced about it. Does anyone share similar experience and any suggestions about this? Thanks!
The reason I'm asking is that my Wife has a 2000 GLS and she loves it, she just wants a Rag Top...I didn't even know VW had made all those changes on the 06(The interior is much different too) untill we went to the Dealership to buy one today...
Incidentally, they only had two in stock, kind of a Dark Pewter/Silver color with black interior and a 1 Package, which includes the Power Top, Electric Seats, upgraded sound system and a Wind deflector....which apparently is essential at freeway speeds....
One thing is Bugging me (excuse the Pun), my Wife's Beetle is as-new, very low smileage,(She only drives 4 miles to work) new Tires a couple of months ago, Dealer maintained etc etc...I hate to Give it away to the Dealer...
Anyway, back to the reason for my Post...anyone any thoughts on the new 06 Convertible?
Mass Air Flow Meter replaced under warranty extension.I replaced the pre catalyst oxygen sensor 2 days ago myself. Engine runs like new. But:
At 80mph on the freeway, my engine looses all power for a second or a second and 1/2, only to kick back in gear with a kick in the seat. 3rd time in 2 days and it only happened 3 times in 2 years I had the car, before the oxygen sensor replacement. I replaced the sensor since it was diagnosed faulty, the car gulped gas and I was lacking power.
What is your advice here folks because my guess is ...electrical but i don't know where. The problem is in the 5th speed only. It is not of steady reocurrence but random and there never was
any "CHECK ENGINE" light any time this happened, before or after the MAF or Oxygen sensor replacement.
If you can picture my dilemma give me a hint please, I don't know where to start.
Thanks.
What exactly do you mean by "tuning up the engine"? Be careful, you can open youself to unpredicted costs that tont really tackle the core of your problem. You must find out where the problem lies but do that with a mechanic friend. Meaning someone you know who is competent and wont fry your wallet in diagnosis labour hours. Going to the dealer for this type of problem makes you prone to all kinds of unneccesary costs.
1. waste gate had to be replaced . They sold me the car that way thinking i was a chick and i wouldnt know....well i do mechanical work on my car and i knew something wasnt right, and that was just the begining.
2. The gas lid wouldnt open everytime i needed gas i actually had to pry it open. Wow was that interesting.
3. I have this weird rubbing noise in my front end. I had it to be "serviced" 7 times already and going on #8. They claimed at first it was my A/C compressor and harness. They replaced it and still made the noise. Took it there again and they replaced the sway bar bushing. Yea u guessed it still broke. And know they say they cant fix because they dont know whats wrong with it. I love those Vw service guys. ( can u tell im pissed by now)
4. I would go get gas and same grade same amt. when gas prices were the same and the pump would stop at $18 when i know my car would take $26. When i turned the car on it would only read 3/4 full. I had to take it there twice for that and finally was fixed.
What king of noise? Rubbing like rubber or grinding like metals or is it squeaking ...?
Is it occuring at bumps or while the car shakes (i.e. while stopping/accelerating suddenly?)
Is it at certain speeds, while cornering? Try testing the car for the above situations observe those detais and come back and tell me. We'll figure it out.
stabilizer bar bushings. They wear out rapidly or the correct way to say this, they dry out rapidly, may it be hot or cold weather and this happens over some time. Unscrewing them and greasing them with high temperature grease is a temporary solution, replacing them is the most common and lasts longer than the first suggestion.
The other one could be the Control Arm Rear Mounting Bushings. They are puck round shaped, they are under your seat (and passenger's) and they crerate this noise. In order to take them out, an automotive machine press is required. I have replaced both of the stabilizer bar bushings and the control arm ones. I have yet to find a dealer mechanic who would diagnose the control arm bushing noise properly.
Now, you cannot perform either of the replacement operations and i suggest you take the problem to a repair shop since the car has to be on a lift to be worked on.
But, and listen to this... do not go to that shop before doing this:
Make some friend locate all 4 bushings, lift the car on 2 jacks and apply lots of WD40 on both the first set. After 2 weeks on the rear set. Why? Because you will grease the bushings and drive the car and see if you still hear the noise. If not, your problem is solved by elimination, the bushings you greased must be replaced. After this go to the dealer, point them out and get them to replace them without their input, discussion or any other fuss. Tell them the Nike slogan "Just do it". If greasing them does not eliminate the noise, the problem is something else.
I hope this helps. Oh and by the way, first replacement is 15$ in parts and 45 minutes labour, and the second one is one hour overall (do not let them fool you at one hour each side, that's b.s.) and around 15$ per bushing for the parts. Assist them when they repair the car. You are to watch the mechanic and say nothing (do not be in his way) and prevent him loosing his time and charging you for it. Needless to say don't leave the car in their hands for an undetermined period of time. They are EXPERTS at stealing and lying their way around the clients.If dealership refuses to let you in the garage, do the repair where they allow you to watch.
Cheers and let me know how this goes!