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I, like many, have issues with my beetle. The first is that the "blue" coolant light always stays on, regardless of engine temp (it IS at proper operating temp). once in a great while, the light will go out, but generally only for a few minutes.
the second is that although the engine is quite full of oil and only has 60k on it, the oil light will blink at me at random times.
Third, the EPC light comes on occasionally, but its NOT the brake switch, as its already had the recall done (twice, I believe) and the brake lights work fine. There are a few trouble codes stored relating to it, but the information I have is limited.
After doing as much research as I could online, Ive found that the probable failure for the coolant light is probably the coolant temp sensor, although the light does NOT shut off when the sensor is unplugged (although that may in fact be normal).
Ive found many, many complaints about massive oil sludging on the 1.8 turbo, causing the oil light issue (although the actual oil pressure has not been tested yet).
Ive found thousands of complaints about the brake light switch effecting the EPC light, but that is not the case in this situation.
how many people here have similar issues, and what did you find to resolve them? Chances are im just gonna throw an oil pressure sensor and coolant temp sensor at it, as they're reasonably cheap.. but that still leaves me with a failing throttle actuator, or something more sinister.
Has anyone here dealt with anything like this?
I am not specifically familiar with your exact problem. However I will say this about electrical problems in general. They can be difficult to diagnose and expensive to repair. It just may be that you will buy and install an oil pressure sensor and a coolant temperature sensor and have the same problem. Meanwhile you've just spent $150 for zip.
Just maybe it would be worthwhile to have a mechanic with a code scanner diagnose the problem. That may indeed be the cheaper solution. Keep in mind that electrical components are not returnable.
I like you, had to learn the hard way and pay for my mistakes.
Also, if your coolant is a tad low in the resivour, it will not satisfy the level-sensor. (which is plugged into the side of the resivour) It is OK to add up to a 1/2 cup of DISTILLED water to bring the level up.
When you mention "unplugging" the sensor above... I hope you are NOT thinking that the LEVEL sensor on the side of the resivour is the same as the TEMPARTURE sensor which is elsewhere.
fortunately, I was correct with the failed OPS and coolant temp sensor, and the total cost was 35 bucks.
The last problem (multiple codes for an issue with the throttle actuator (P1171, P1542)) seems to be quite simple. Upon inspection of the throttle, its BENT. Someone was in a wreck, and the repair wasn't caught or ignored previously. The voltage readings are all right on the money, but the problem is intermittent, and a smashed throttle body is a good place to start.
Thank you.
However if the latching mechanism is truly broken then you are due for a repair.
The reason I ask is because the chime (and many other options) are programmable and the chime may simply be turned off.
Personally, I use a my VAGCOM software to do it.
You have several options;
*)Purchase a VAGCOM (if you have a laptop computer)
*) Search internet for list of VAGCOM owhers in your area. (most are HAPPY to help out fellow VW owners)
*) Pay dealer to do it
*) Forget the whole thing -- LOL
BTW: This link explains some of the items which are programmable.
For another car that I have owned (a base Pontiac), these chimes only work if the original OEM radio is still in the car. If the radio has been replaced with an aftermarket radio it will be unlikely that the chimes will work. Somehow they run the chime elctronics through the radio. The chimes will work whether or not the radio (or the car) is turned on.
Because of the chime issue I stuck with a pretty crappy (but original equipment) AM/FM radio that I would have liked to upgrade to a CD player.
Don
I am having the same problem with my 2003 VW Beetle.. but no leaks!
So check the brake fluid, and check the brake pads. If that's not the case then you have a problem with your brake system.
Thanks.
It does sound like coolant to me. Power steering fluid feels more oily. The engine oil is brown or black. I don't know what color the manual transmission oil is but it will feel oily.
Does it steam or smell like coolant when the engine is hot just after you have turned off the engine? Is the coolant overflow/recovery tank full ? Whatever you do don't let the car go without coolant. That's how you get stranded or burn up an engine.
Check the hoses (radiator and heater hoses) and connections for leaks, (viually) check that the radiator doesn't have a pinhole leak.
Is there a radiator cap that is leaking ?? (check that only when the engine is cold or you'll get badly burned).
My bet would be on a hose or hose clamp or on a pinhole leak in the radiator.
If you can't do these checks yourself get some professional help right away. Coolant leaks need your attention right away !
DO NOT USE ANY ANTIFREEZE EXCEPT THE VW-spec (G12) PINK STUFF! There is nothing else that is compatable with it.
You do not have to get it from a VW dealer....
There are a couple companies that make G12 antifreeze.
Also, I would be EVEN MORE surprised if you get an an answer in reference to a 2-year-old posting.
Perhaps if you described the symptoms you are seeing with you 2002 NB (New Beetle) we may be able to offer some help.
Can't list all the problems I've had with this little gem! Is there a way we can ban together and redress our grievances with this company? Is there a lawyer reading this board? Come on! This shouldn't be legal!! What give?
In my opinion, class action lawsuits are for the benefit of the lawyers, not the plaintiffs.
I had planned to buy a 2007 beetle hardtop, but the posts I have been reading have scared me to death!!
I currently own a 1998 Civic, so massive electrical, check engine, etc, problems are new to me.
Have all the issues from the earlier models been corrected in the 2007 model or should i stick with the Hondas?
Love my Civic just thought the Beetles were so cute.
many thanks in advance for any comments. :confuse:
(Before you ask... we were looking for foglight lense that the dealership wants over $100 for)
I am curious, what kind of electrical issues are you refering to... I would like to keep an eye open for them on my daughters NB.
imho the primary issue with the 2007 beetle is that you can't get the 45 mpg diesel engine in 2007s!
if you are interested in maximum reliability, you should probably consider only american or japanese nameplates, and avoid all the euro nameplates!
As for consuming oil... I am VERY aware that some early 2000 -> 2001 VWs with the 2.0L engine consume oil. My *other* daughter with a Gulf has this issue... in any case it is NOT a "problem"... just need to add oil once in awhile. No big deal.
The window-regulator issue you mention was not just NBs... it was across all VWs and was promptluy fixed by VW at no cost to the consumers.
The brake-light-switch was a situation whereas the brake-lights may stay on when parked thus draining the battery. Again, this was recalled by VW at no expense to the consumers.
I beleive I have explained-away EVERY one of the "issues" you meintion. EVERY VEHICLE I HAVE EVER OWNED had some kind of recalls against it.
There is no such thing as a perfect machine. If the manufacturer pays for the repairs...why the heck do you call it " a very expensive mistake." ?
Just what are you expecting from your car anyway? Tell us what vehicle manufactured on planet earth has never been recalled for some goofy thing.... or worse (Like Honda automatic xmissins burning up, or Toyota engines sludging to death, or Suberu xmissions being noisy...etc)
All in all, people should buy what they LIKE to drive.... every car will need some repairs at some point.
Does that about explain what some of us think we should be able to expect of a NEW car!!?? Stay away from VW Beetles as cute as they may be! There's more, but I've lost track of it all. It's THAT BAD!!
A burned out lightbulb, once, is NOT an electrical problem. Having to replace the bulbs every 2 months IS an electrical problem.
Adding oil once in a while is NOT an engine problem. Having to add oil once a month IS an engine problem.
My brakelights didn't stay on; they DIED. Different problem than the recall issue. Nearly causing an accident.
Having 'check engine' and 'temperature' icons go off all the time ARE electric AND engine problems.
You did NOT explain these cars suddenly dying at 60 mps on the freeway.
As I mentioned, there are other problems with these cars which I didn't list, because if you peruse the older posts, you'll find them. I also mentioned that not every car has the same problems. I have never had my car die on the freeway, though it has died in a parking lot while I was sitting there. My interior isn't bubbling and falling apart too much, but some folks have interiors that are literally falling and breaking apart.
I never said there was a perfect machine. That wasn't part of your initial question. I never said people should not like their cars. That also was not in your initial post. These two issues are not relevant here. You asked what the problems were and you got some replies. There was no need to yell at me in response.
The original bulbs are about 3X more expensive so I understand why some folks do this. Truth-be-told, I used the cheeper bulbs once... and after they burned out within a few months, I went back to using the CORRECT European lower-wattage bulb.... burnout problem solved.
ps. when you use capital letters, it's yelling. Please use the italics button if you mean to emphasize a word or a phrase. Otherwise I'm just going to consider you yelling at me, which isn't appreciated.
I am really trying to help you out because you seem so disgruntled with your 2001 NB (New Beetle) With this in mind, I have reviewed all 9 of your appends to the various edmunds forums.
I find it very interesting that your oil-consumption issue went away after the accident. I am assuming that the engine was not replaced, so this makes me very curious about what happened.
As for your issues with various lightbulbs burning out... I also noted this started after the accident. My many years of experience (I am trained in electronics engineering) tell me that your car likely has a problem with a ground connection which was caused by the accident. Ground problems are often difficult to isolate/fix.
The fact that your MPG has dropped from 54MPG down to 15MPG since the accident also smacks of a problem with the electrical system. The onboard computer cannot do its job with noisy electrical system. (bad grounds) This is because the signals from all of the sensors are inaccurate so the computer injects the wrong amount of fuel based on this bad data.
Also your comment about the CEL (CheckEngineLight) coming on once in a while points to a possible ground problem.
Based on your own appends, the bottom line for you is not really because you have a Volkswagen... it is the accident which brought on most of the issues.
Please tell me more about your fuel-pump getting clogged. How do you know the fuel pump is clogging? I assume you already know that t The only thing that can clog the fuelpump is bad fuel. (That would also explain your stalling problem)
I sure wish I had more details about the oil-consumption going away after the accident. That one is a real puzzler.
While the car may have a bad ground, I would first check the voltage coming off of the alternator. Burnt out bulbs are a good sign of the alternator's regulator failing which would allow the voltage to go too high. Other electrical problems can also follow the overvoltage issue.