The midwest price (Chicago to St Louis) is around $600 for the hood, bumper, lights (including fog), and mirrors. This is on a 2003 540 with the sport package. Other 5 series (with or without sport package) will run about $100 less.As previously mentioned, all the companies use the 3M product known as Scotchcal. Their technics at cutting the pattern to fit the car is what varies. The company I'm going with is Ultra Shield. Make sure you get references of the person doing the work. I found several in my area but only one had worked on BMW's (the price was the same with all). The local dealership used the individual and he knew just what to order. You will save by not going to the dealer. For a 540 with sp, you must order the M5 bumper kit. Hence the extra cost. Everyone whom I talked to is very happy with the product. I'll let you all know how it comes out.
... was not installed by dealer. Is it necessary to drill (gasp) into front fairing to install? Where do the little hooks on the bracket go? l'd love to go without it but have already been stopped once....
...the bracket is an interchangeable part of the bumper. The existing middle strip pops out and the license bracket pops in , each side strip slides under the remaining part of the bumper....
I did the reverse...my car came with bracket ,I did not like it and had dealer replace it with matching narrow middle strip. I kept the bracket in case I ever live in a state requiring two plates on the car.
Do I feel your fear? Yes, I was afraid to pop the strip,the dealer did it in seconds. Snap, snap, done! Put the drill bit away.
I have 530 with SP, so maybe this is different from 540. I had previously posted some before and after closeup pictures,but the website has now closed them . I'll see if these can be posted to another website where you can take a look and compare to your car. The dealer should definitely know so you can contact them too. ( I have tried to access imagestation.com ,a picture storing site, tonite, but their server is down)
Thanks for your help -- and patience. I must have had a bowl of STUPID for breakfast and can't upload pix directly, but if you click on this link I hope it will bring you to pix of bumber and bracket.
I have a 1998 528i with an extended warranty coverage.
The car broke down on July 3rd, just before we were to go on a long-weekend trip. The water pump and thermostat failed, the car overheated, and we were unable to drive it even 1/2 mile.
I called my BMW dealer in Schaumburg, IL, where the car was purchased. I was told they couldn't help me that day, and that they would be closed until July 7. I wasn't offered a loner or a rental car.
I subsequently took the car to a local mechanic who repaired the car. I was glad that they were able to help me and that we didn't have to cancel our trip.
Since July 7 I tried to receive a compensation from the dealer for the $700 repair work. After a visit to the dealer and several call to various BMW offices, I am told that they cannot reimburse me since the mechanic was not authorized by BMW.
Am I being treated fairly? Is there anything I can do about this situation?
evunia... You wrote, "I have a 1998 528i with an extended warranty coverage." But you don't say who provides the warranty.
Is it BMW CPO? If yes, you really needed to get it serviced by a BMW dealer. That is part of the agreement. Just as if the car were under the original new car 4/50 b-to-b warranty. These warranties don't let you go outside BMW network. And CPO provides BMW roadside assistance. (Thinking it includes trip interruption benefits.)
If not CPO, then your issue would seem to be with the 3rd party warranty company.
cbgb: Mystery solved (I think). The '03 540 Sport Package comes with the front bumber from the M5. BMW Tech tells me ya gotta screw it in to the bumper, no way around it. Gulp.
Any good advice on door "clunks" over bumps--kind of a heavy rattle. Also, my throttle seems a little sticky. Hard to make smooth minor adjustments w/acceleration. I have seen the door problem from other posts--just wondering if anybody has a good solution. Any advice appreciated. -mtjohn
I have a '99 528i and it overheated after I stopped at idle for about 10 minutes on a long trip. I let it cool down and started up and finished the trip while keeping an eye on the temperature. Did not do it again for a week, but didn't trust it anymore so took it to the dealer. The diagnostic was bad water pump.
It's been over six months since and haven't had a problem yet (knock on wood).
I have a '99 528i and about three times now, after turning off the car, one or two outside lights stay on! (Usually its the rear driver's red light that turns on when the headlights are on, the last time it also left on the front yellow light on the driver side).
Once I notice this, I have to go to the car, turn it on, turn on the lights and turn them off again. The lights will go off and it won't happen again for a while.
My concern is that it may happen again and discharge the battery and leave me stranded.
Can't help you with the door rattle, but the sticky throttle that has been a common problem on E39s/E46s does have a fix. BMW finally solved it about a year ago after much prodding. No recall notice went out, because this was not considered to be a safety issue nor did it affect all production. Take the car to your dealer and ask for the sticky throttle fix (sorry, I don't have the part #). I did this last August, and the problem has not recurred in my '01 530i.
I just took my car in to the dealer after complaining of rattling from the passenger side door area. They did some work on the b-pillars but the noise is still there. It's definitly froom the door area. I now have to go back to the dealer next week and take a tech. for a spin so I can point the noise out.
Cheeks. I had a rattle coming from the passenger door in my 00 323Ci. I took it to the dealer and my tech rep said it may be a wear and tear item not covered under warranty. I couldn't believe what I was hearing. I told him it was a workmanship defect. Anyway, they fixed it as a warranty item and said it was a bulb that worked itself loose inside the door. I don't know if this is what your problem is but it could be, or I understand sometime door speaker mounting brackets loosen in the front door. Please let us know what it is when they take care of it.
After further research on other bimmer boards, I have concluded that I'm a victim of the E39 infamous door seals. It seems that this is an issue many E39 owners have. I plan on taking it in this week and see what the dealer can do.
My 540 had this noise from passenger window area. i.e. if window is completely closed. It was plastic seal on the door. They have already replaced it twice! One tech recommended spraying some liquid silicon on the inside of seal. Seemed to have helped. Now I hear noises from the seat belt latch area :-)
My 525, 5spd, PP, CWP is now two months old. Yes, it's not the sportiest model, but man, I love this car. However, I've recently noticed the following:
First, the auto-dimmer feature on my rear view mirror doesn't seem to ever kick in. Usually after about 30 seconds to a minute, I have to readjust the mirror because I'm getting blinded by the car behind me. Am I not waiting long enough for it to take effect?
Second, my headlights (halogen) seem to be pointed too low. I know this is a bit subjective, but it's pretty noticeable to me and also passengers, and I always have the urge to turn my brights on. I swear it seems that only about 30 feet are illuminated. Almost like the hood is blocking the top of the light. Has anyone else noticed this? Is there a way to manually adjust these or am I left to contact my service dept?
I too have recently purchased a 525i and unfortunely they are not equipped with auto-dimming mirrors (on the 530 it is included in the prem package and it is on all of the 540s). I was suprised that there was no lever on the 525's mirror, therefore you have to manually adjust the mirror at night.
I have not driven mine at night that much yet but it also seems the the headlights are adjusted a bit too low. I just figured this was to prevent the xenon lights from blinding oncoming drivers.
Wow, that was an embarrassing oversight on my part. I was certain that I had read that the PP included the autodimming rear view mirror. When I got the car and didn't see the lever, it (incorrectly) confirmed for me that it was autodimming. Unfortunately, you are right, the 525 d/n come with the autodim.
You can Dim the rear view mirror by turning the clown nose (alarm light under the mirror) clockwise, it will flip up, then turn it back counterclockwise.
Who knew the clown nose was so versatile. Btw, if I remember correctly, you've got a great looking car. It seems deeper in color than imola red, but I'm not sure if I'm remembering it right. Congrats and nice ride.
I am happy to find out that there is a way to dim the mirror without having to manually adjust it. I guess I had not tweeked the clown nose yet and therefore had not discovered it's other function. Thanks!
I appreciate the advice. I'm just graduating from auto-tard to auto-newbie, so I'll do some research to make sure I don't break anything (which is usually what I accomplish).
I had the same problem with door seal noise. Tried everything to no avail. Then I got a can of silicone spray from Pep Boys, sprayed it on both the door and the body frame at the top where the door closes. Noise gone.
I drove over to the dealer and bought a tube of Gummipfledge from the parts dept. This is a silicone based product that BMW sells for those of us that have creaky door seals. It costs about $8.00. I put it on the door in question and I have to say I didn't hear anything. I remain cautiously optimistic that this is the solution. I'll post my findings after a few weeks.
Little help? Just purchased a used 540i-- of course it's a pleasure to drive. Only thing is that I purchased it from a lexus dealer and I'm thinking that the oil service they conducted might not be everything a BMW mechanic would have done. In fact, I think it's likely.
Does anyone know of a good garage in the western suburbs?
kschaffs... Bought my '98 540i6 11/01. She had about 52,000 miles. Bought her CPO from a BMW dealer in Wisconsin (Enterprise BMW, Appleton). She now has about 78,000 miles. Had only a few problems, but am glad she was CPO. Had to have the dash computer LCD replaced at about 58,000 miles. Would've cost me a small bundle if out of any warranty. Also had a passenger-side airbag sensor go faulty.
Make sure you know the service history. Your's should be ready for an oil service. Normally goes oil service at 15K, Schedule 1 maintenance at 30K, another oil service at 45K, and Schedule 2 at 60K. Repeat cycle.
Remember to change your brake fluid and coolant per the manual. Thinking 2 year and 3 years respectively, regardless of miles.
What tires is your's riding? I had Yokohama AVS dbs. When they wore out (around 73K), I put a set of Continental ContiSportContact 2s on. Happy so far.
She is a blast to drive. I get 26 mpg on highway cruising in 6th at 74 mph. Have had her up to over 140 mph a few times (indicated speedometer and BMWs are notoriously liberal, so really likely only around 130-135).
Join BMW CCA. Get their magazine. I'd recommend you subscribe to Bimmer magazine, too. Lots of great info on maintaining our BMWs.
My new 540i showed a reading of 115 degrees in Burbank, CA today while the real temp was probably about 90. Is there a known problem with the outside temp indicator in the 5 series? Thanks.
Just to clarify -- in addition to the 15,000 mile interval for oil changes and service, don't go over one year either! if your Bimmer is fairly new and under warranty for regular maintenance, BMW dealers will honor the one year oil change.
This is something for your dealer to look at in your next service visit. Temp readings have been reliable and are constantly within a degree of temp reported on radio here in North Carolina, which can be very hot in Spring/ Summer ,and surprisingly frosty in winter. I would not make a special trip in to dealer unless this is related to some other problem with your car.
The temp sensor can pick up heat from the road so if you were moving slowly, stuck in traffic or stationary that would account for the high temp reading. If you were moving at normal speed for a while when you got the high reading then I'd have the dealer check it out.
Last Saturday I washed my new 530iA (1065 miles, 6 weeks new) and my wife's MB E320. As usual, I opened all 4 doors, trunk and hood of both cars and dried inside, then used my hand vacuum.
Pulled both cars into the garage around noon. Drove the Benz on Sunday, and on Monday I tried to start the BMW. Nothing but "click, click, click" with battery too low even to turn over the engine.
This morning BMW Roadside Assistance showed up 45 minutes after my call and jump-started the car. Took it to the dealer's -- battery checked ok, and they can find no problems thus far. If they can't ID the problem, they said they'd put a new battery in.
Anyone else have any similar problem? I'll post tomorrow re final outcome.
Late yesterday the dealer's service advisor called and said they could find nothing wrong with my car. But he said sometimes a battery checks out okay, but really won't hold a charge. So they put a new battery in the car and advised me to make sure I drive the car every 3 or 4 days.
I found that advice to be ridiculous. My 2000 MB E320 has probably as many or more computer chips that BMW says drains the battery, and I've never had a similar problem with it. Also, my neighbor has a 2002 identical 530iA, and he's left the car untouched for several weeks while in Europe with his family. He never had a problem with battery drain.
But to be safe, I just bought a BMW trickle charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter. It shuts off automatically (it says here) to avoid over-charging the battery. We'll be traveling soon and won't drive the car for almost 3 weeks, so I'll have the charger at the ready. But I won't leave it plugged in.
That is really weird. I left my new 530iA in the garage for over a week while on a family vacation and had no problems wen we returned. It probably was a problem with the battery.
My 02, 530i only keeps the same settings for A/C and fan speeds about half at the times. It is supposed to keep your last personal settings. I have keep resetting the A/C or fan speeds a few times until it keeps them the same. Any ideas?
My experience is if you leave the car in the "auto" position, it will remember that setting ONLY if you have not adjusted the fan speed up or down prior to shutting the car off. If I have adjusted the fan speed while driving, my car remembers this adjusted manual setting when I start up next time...so I need to tap the auto button once if fan speed needs to kick in to achieve desired temperature, which has remained the same throughout.... Usually,it seems I reduce the fan speed in driving , and need increased fan speed when I restart. The system will be working to achieve the set temperature in either case, it just takes longer if auto feature has been overridden & fan speed has been manually reduced on prior drive. Hit the auto button when you start the car.
Yes, it sounds like the battery suffered from infant mortality; my E39 sits in the garage for 10+ days at a time(when the weather is nice the Club Sport is much more fun) and it has never failed to start. It still has the original battery, and the car has a build date of 06/96. Ditto for my 10/95 build date E36. One tip: top off the battery with distilled water every six months or so-if the cell caps are covered by a big sticker simply peel it off. It's easy to do; see: http://www.bmwdiy.info/battery-maint/index.html
It just seems that some things are more likely to fail early on in the life of a vehicle. The steering rack on our brand new 1998 3er died 150 miles after delivery-all the seals were blown. It seems ZF sent Munich a batch of bad racks. We had no problems with the car after that; the only reason we traded it for the 5er is because we needed more room.
I think your problem was just the case of a bad battery. Over the summer, we left our 2000 MB S430 and 2001 530i (both with 22K) in the garage for about three weeks while we were on vacation. Upon our return, we took the MB for one road trip and the next time I tried to take it for a spin, it would not start. Luckily, I was able to jump start it from the 530i and took it to the dealer. All they did was to put a new battery in the MB and we have had no problem since then. By the way, I drive the 530i to work daily but use the S430 on Sundays only. Good luck with the new battery.
I have a new 2003 525i that I got in June. Since day 1, I cannot get it to program in my garage door opener. It simply does not work. I tried the procedure in the manual multiple times.
<One important note - the BMW UNGO requires the 3 confirmations as described well in the on-line instructions. IE - once it is recognized by the garage door opener receiver - you must do press and hold 3 times for it to lock the UNGO.>
Comments
I did the reverse...my car came with bracket ,I did not like it and had dealer replace it with matching narrow middle strip. I kept the bracket in case I ever live in a state requiring two plates on the car.
Do I feel your fear? Yes, I was afraid to pop the strip,the dealer did it in seconds. Snap, snap, done! Put the drill bit away.
I must have had a bowl of STUPID for breakfast and can't upload pix directly, but if you click on this link I hope it will bring you to pix of bumber and bracket.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289713425&code=5792306- &mode=invite
The car broke down on July 3rd, just before we were to go on a long-weekend trip. The water pump and thermostat failed, the car overheated, and we were unable to drive it even 1/2 mile.
I called my BMW dealer in Schaumburg, IL, where the car was purchased. I was told they couldn't help me that day, and that they would be closed until July 7. I wasn't offered a loner or a rental car.
I subsequently took the car to a local mechanic who repaired the car. I was glad that they were able to help me and that we didn't have to cancel our trip.
Since July 7 I tried to receive a compensation from the dealer for the $700 repair work. After a visit to the dealer and several call to various BMW offices, I am told that they cannot reimburse me since the mechanic was not authorized by BMW.
Am I being treated fairly? Is there anything I can do about this situation?
Thank you for your help.
-Eva
Is it BMW CPO? If yes, you really needed to get it serviced by a BMW dealer. That is part of the agreement. Just as if the car were under the original new car 4/50 b-to-b warranty. These warranties don't let you go outside BMW network. And CPO provides BMW roadside assistance. (Thinking it includes trip interruption benefits.)
If not CPO, then your issue would seem to be with the 3rd party warranty company.
Mystery solved (I think). The '03 540 Sport Package comes with the front bumber from the M5. BMW Tech tells me ya gotta screw it in to the bumper, no way around it. Gulp.
Thanks for your help and perseverence.
Any advice appreciated.
-mtjohn
I have a '99 528i and it overheated after I
stopped at idle for about 10 minutes on a long
trip. I let it cool down and started up and
finished the trip while keeping an eye on the
temperature. Did not do it again for a week,
but didn't trust it anymore so took it to the
dealer. The diagnostic was bad water pump.
It's been over six months since and haven't had
a problem yet (knock on wood).
David
I have a '99 528i and about three times now,
after turning off the car, one or two outside
lights stay on! (Usually its the rear driver's
red light that turns on when the headlights are
on, the last time it also left on the front
yellow light on the driver side).
Once I notice this, I have to go to the car,
turn it on, turn on the lights and turn them off
again. The lights will go off and it won't happen
again for a while.
My concern is that it may happen again and
discharge the battery and leave me stranded.
Anybody else seen this before? Thanks!
David
area. i.e. if window is completely closed. It
was plastic seal on the door. They have already
replaced it twice! One tech recommended spraying
some liquid silicon on the inside of seal. Seemed
to have helped. Now I hear noises from the seat
belt latch area :-)
I.I.
First, the auto-dimmer feature on my rear view mirror doesn't seem to ever kick in. Usually after about 30 seconds to a minute, I have to readjust the mirror because I'm getting blinded by the car behind me. Am I not waiting long enough for it to take effect?
Second, my headlights (halogen) seem to be pointed too low. I know this is a bit subjective, but it's pretty noticeable to me and also passengers, and I always have the urge to turn my brights on. I swear it seems that only about 30 feet are illuminated. Almost like the hood is blocking the top of the light. Has anyone else noticed this? Is there a way to manually adjust these or am I left to contact my service dept?
Thanks for your time and help.
I have not driven mine at night that much yet but it also seems the the headlights are adjusted a bit too low. I just figured this was to prevent the xenon lights from blinding oncoming drivers.
Spyderred,
Thanks again.
Does anyone know of a good garage in the western suburbs?
Much obliged.
Have you considered having it worked on by your local BMW dealer?
You should join BMW CCA. Their wonderful monthly publication, Roundel, has tons of ads, including from independent garages. Check out their web site.
You should also check out Bimmer magazine. They, too, have zillions of ads.
There is an association of independent BMW garages. They advertise. Thinking in both Roundel and Bimmer,
Both publications have great Tech Q&A sections. Lots of good info on maintaining your car and things to be on the watch for.
It's a '98 540i w/41K miles. My oil service "countdown" light isn't showing that I need attention, but I just want to do it right.
Hey, saw that you and I have the same car. It's a nice vehicle, don't you think?
thanks
Make sure you know the service history. Your's should be ready for an oil service. Normally goes oil service at 15K, Schedule 1 maintenance at 30K, another oil service at 45K, and Schedule 2 at 60K. Repeat cycle.
Remember to change your brake fluid and coolant per the manual. Thinking 2 year and 3 years respectively, regardless of miles.
What tires is your's riding? I had Yokohama AVS dbs. When they wore out (around 73K), I put a set of Continental ContiSportContact 2s on. Happy so far.
She is a blast to drive. I get 26 mpg on highway cruising in 6th at 74 mph. Have had her up to over 140 mph a few times (indicated speedometer and BMWs are notoriously liberal, so really likely only around 130-135).
Join BMW CCA. Get their magazine. I'd recommend you subscribe to Bimmer magazine, too. Lots of great info on maintaining our BMWs.
Pulled both cars into the garage around noon. Drove the Benz on Sunday, and on Monday I tried to start the BMW. Nothing but "click, click, click" with battery too low even to turn over the engine.
This morning BMW Roadside Assistance showed up 45 minutes after my call and jump-started the car. Took it to the dealer's -- battery checked ok, and they can find no problems thus far. If they can't ID the problem, they said they'd put a new battery in.
Anyone else have any similar problem? I'll post tomorrow re final outcome.
I found that advice to be ridiculous. My 2000 MB E320 has probably as many or more computer chips that BMW says drains the battery, and I've never had a similar problem with it. Also, my neighbor has a 2002 identical 530iA, and he's left the car untouched for several weeks while in Europe with his family. He never had a problem with battery drain.
But to be safe, I just bought a BMW trickle charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter. It shuts off automatically (it says here) to avoid over-charging the battery. We'll be traveling soon and won't drive the car for almost 3 weeks, so I'll have the charger at the ready. But I won't leave it plugged in.
Anyone else had this problem?
http://www.bmwdiy.info/battery-maint/index.html
Since day 1, I cannot get it to program in my garage door opener. It simply does not work. I tried the procedure in the manual multiple times.
Any tips?
A friend of mine on a HMBICN(Helpful Message Board I Cannot Name) has further advice:
<One important note - the BMW UNGO requires the 3 confirmations as described well in the on-line instructions. IE - once it is recognized by the garage door opener receiver - you must do press and hold 3 times for it to lock the UNGO.>
I hope this helps.