BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

manybmws · January 2004

Get the Michelins PA2s. I have run PAs for 4 winters without any issues. And running them today on the interstate at 95 they were great, just reaffirming their dry weather performance. And I run Michelin Pilot Sport A/S the rest of the year so I have a high performance tire to compare them to.

glaker · January 2004

I usually find myself in awe of Shipos responses to issues on this board (he seems to be a wise man), but when I read his response to Viz about the Michelin winter tires, I chuckled. The key to his response was the Michelins are the best winter tires in non winter conditions - but why would one buy winter tires to begin with except for winter conditions. If you've ever tried to drive home through an unexpected blowing snow storm (like we get in upstate NY), you don't want to do it on non or "quasi" winter tires. You need something with a good knobby tread pattern. So, IMO if you're gonna drive in winter conditions, get something to handle the dark days when you get caught in the storm - so you can get home in one piece. On the other hand, if you're lucky enough that your BMW is just used for taking a ride in nice weather or you never encounter serious storms, then Shipo's advice is right on.

shipo · January 2004

I think maybe I failed to fully explain the attributes of the Michelin Arctic-Alpin tire. For starters, they are GREAT snow tires, and that is exactly why I bought them. I live in New Hampshire, and last year we had 114" of snow in our town (which by the way is very hilly and has roads that wind over hill and dale), and there was not one single day where my car was out of commission. My point was that while the Blizzak tires may well be marginally better in deep snow, the difference is just not that significant. On the other hand, once the roads have been cleared, the Arctic-Alpins have a substantial advantage in the noise and ride department.

Another point I want to make is that having a knobby tread pattern does not a snow tire make, if it did, my Michelin Pilot Primacys would be a decent snow tire, and trust me, snow tires they aint. What makes a great snow tire is the rubber compound and all of the fine little cuts made in the tread pattern that can grip the snow. Like all of the best winter tires, the Arctic-Alpins have said slices, in this case, six slices per linear inch of tread.

I hope this helps clear up any confusion I may have caused by my previous post. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

div2 · January 2004

Your explanation made perfect sense the first time. A lot of "experts" don't understand that the multicell tread compound that makes the Blizzak so effective on ice is completely gone by the time the tire is half worn. Several of my friends have noted that the Alpins are excellent on ice/snow and-even better-they have wet/dry performance that equals or betters many all-season tires. Besides, anyone who lacks the ability to drive an Alpin shod 5er in the wintry stuff should be taking public transit anyway.

designman · January 2004

Riez, people understand economics better than you think. Thats why none of the gentleman around here vilified your purchase when you went from 540 to IS300, unlike what you have done with my Boxster S purchase. Ill spar with you as much as youd like on this, but if you really want a workout maybe you should take your logic over to the Porsche threads.

I like the cars you mentionedMiata, S2000I even considered buying them. Bottom line: they arent Porsches, and as well-read as you seem to be on automotive subjects, if you dont realize this then youre not as erudite as I had thought. Its that simple. The only knock on the Boxster is price, an issue that I got past, as do most financially responsible owners of luxury cars.

With regard to the M5 comparison. I like this stealth bomber and seriously considered buying it. Bottom line: I wanted handling and open air more than I did power. On the switchbacks the M5 will roll off the mountain a lot sooner than the Boxster, Miata and S2000... saved myself 15 grand also. BTW, I saved 58 grand by not buying a C4S... pretty frugal I think.

Yes you CAN compare different types of cars when you are considering buying them. What's more, you're crazy if you don't. But go ahead, lets see how much dust you can find in the pepper shaker now.

george94 · January 2004

I own a brand new set of Michelin Pilot Alpin2 and I've been extremely happy with them. I have driven them in deep snow, slush, ice and dry roads and these tires didn't disappoint me. Very capable tires. Strongly recommend to anyone.

riez · January 2004

designman... Pace your erudition, I cannot agree with some of your basic premises. A most basic one, inter alia, appears to be that you can legitimately compare a Porsche Boxster to an M5. Would be interesting to see how many potenial buyers, who actually buy one or the other, cross shopped these two cars. Besides the significant price differential (depending upon options might be anywhere from $10-25,000) and the utility factor (the 4-door sedan's interior space for 4 adults and a decent trunk), there are other cars that appear far more likely to be cross shopped: Z4, S2000, Miata, etc. There is just too basic a difference between a sleek 2-door, 2-seat roadster and a 4-door, 4-seat sedan.

If you want to compare Boxsters to BMW sedans, maybe the M3? They share two doors and 6-cyl. engines.

If you want to compare a Porsche to the M5, then maybe the 928 or Cayenne?

And if you haven't noticed, I'm NOT in awe of marques. I don't live in constant need or desire of having to have the right marque. I had no trouble going from BMW to Lexus. I want a fun car to drive that is affordable and reliable.

I love many marques: BMW, Lexus, Infiniti, Jaguar, Porsche, Ferrari, Aston Martin, etc. Some have more cachet than others and some have been around a lot longer than others. But Porsche are too expensive, too impractical, and too unreliable for my tastes, today; however, wait till my 2 kids (13 and 11) grow up and leave home. I'll finally get a roadster. And will be looking at Miata, S2000, Z4, and Boxster.

bentleyfam25 · January 2004

Where else but this forum can you read someone using "inter alia" on a discussion Board? Love it.

Over on BMW tips, you're more likely to see "F--- you" than inter alia.

Thanks, Riez (good comments, too).

mbisnotabimmer · January 2004

I got a set of Bridgestone Blizack tires for my 03 530. These tires are great in the snow. I took it to the UP of Michigan last winter and it snowed over a foot and my car was solid and stable on the road where most SUVs were sliding off the road. I however live in Southern Ohio, where it hardly snows. The dry traction leaves something to be desired. I peel out almost everytime i start to move no matter how careful i am in accelerating. they're a little noisy too, but i hear that's common with snow tires.

viz · January 2004

Thanks a lot for the discussion. Unfortunately Michelin Artic is out of stock on tirerack. Now my choice boils down to Dunlop Winter sport M2 and other tires like Blizzak LM 22($128). Local dealer is offering goodyear ultra grip for $109. Blizzak WS50 is only $92 on tirerack but I am not sure how it would be. By the way the shipping charges are around $65. I am not sure whether tirerack is giving me the best deal.
Please help; I am totally confused.

jbf5 · January 2004

Viz,
FWIW, I got a set of Dunlop Winter Sport M2s for my 530i SP about a month ago and have been quite pleased so far. Handling seems nearly up to par with the stock tires and they aren't noticably noisier. I haven't had to test them yet in deep snow, but Consumer Reports.com rates them very highly for handling in snow. (CR preferred the Michelins for dry handling, as do the previous posts here).

shipo · January 2004

Did you give them a call? Last year when I ordered my wheel and tire set, they were out of the wheels that I wanted. When I called them, I was told that they were able to look in their ordering system and determine when the next shipment was due and to what warehouse. As it turned out, all I had to wait was five days and then they shipped my order.

Best Regards,
Shipo

viz · January 2004

Tirerack does not have michelin for this season. Sold out.
Now 2 options DUNLOP M2 or Blizzak LM22. Since you all have suggested, I would like to have Michelin Artic Alpin.

Any ideas ?

shipo · January 2004

I have a suggestion, and while not necessarily what you are looking for, you may like it none-the-less. ;-)

Over on the RoadFly classified board, they have a complete wheel and tire set for a 5-Series that has only been on the ground for 6 weeks. The owner explains that they were bought for his old car prior to trading it in. He states that he has the new receipt dated in November 2003, and that he paid $1,020 for them and is willing to sell them for $800.

So, what's the catch?

The deal is for Borbet Type E wheels with Blizzak 225/55QR16, not the Michelin Arctic-Alpin tires that you wanted. Given that you cannot easily get the Michelin's this year and need a fallback, why not save a couple hundred dollars while you are at it?

You can see the ad via the following link:
http://www.roadfly.org/bmw/classifieds/wheels/detview.php?view=10- 557

Best Regards,
Shipo

viz · January 2004

Thanks a lot for your suggestion and help. Few minutes back I placed my order for Dunlop M2 whith fox wheels from tirerack. The sales guy said they are same with regard to Michelin. Other sales person recommended Blizzak lm 22.
I hope I would be satisfied.

Thanks again,
Viz

george94 · January 2004

Check out http://www.1010tires.com. The prices seem to be comparable to tirerack and they appear to have Michelin in stock. I purchased thru tirerack Michelin Pilot Alpin2 including the rims and have been extremely happy with them. Good luck.

viz · January 2004

Thanks a lot for your suggestion and help. Few minutes back I placed my order for Dunlop M2 whith fox wheels from tirerack. The sales guy said they are same with regard to Michelin. Other sales person recommended Blizzak lm 22.
I hope I would be satisfied.

Thanks again,
Viz

ndegroat1 · January 2004

We have this car, afternoon (temp out side has been b/t 10 and 40 degrees for the last two weeks)
I have two problems I need to fix:

1. The car will not remain idling in weather closer to 50 degrees and lower. It will stay on for about 3 minutes and then try to adjust; finally failing and shutting off. This is a problem now, of course, since it is cold.

2. I tried to start this afternoon (temp 36 degrees) and it made several clicking / grinding noises when I tried the key. The dash lit up and the interior light came on. After I returned the key to the off position, it made the "winding down" sound like a small motor coming to a stop.
The vehicle would not turn over until my husband jump started it and then did not remain on for long. Is this a battery problem or something much larger? Also, the orange light at the gear shift remains on after the vehicle is off. Is this normal?

psychobabble · January 2004

I recently purchased a 1990 525i with 91000 miles. It's in fine condition and normally runs great; however, on cold mornings I often have great difficulty with it holding an idle. It will turn over, or attempt to do so, but will not hold the idle and will continually stall out. After repeated attempts it is possible to get the car to maintain enough of an idle to warm up to the point where it will run fine but I'd like to know whether this may be the oxygen sensor or something that's an easy fix.

Also, anyone have trouble with the CD magazine in the trunk not working at temperatures under 32 degrees?

Thanks.

ndegroat1 · January 2004

Psychobabble:
I have these same problems, though on a 1999. Incredible that nearly 10 years did not make a difference. I am also wondering if my car is not getting enough oxygen, making it stall in temps below 50....yesterday was the worse, so i will bring it to the shop (again) to have that checked out. I have noticed the CD magazine did not send info to the radio a fe weeks ago when temps dipped into the 20's.
Any explanation for this would be greatly appreciated!

glaker · January 2004

Viz- I bought the exact same thing, Fox wheels and Dunlop Sport M2. You're gonna like 'em a lot. You didn't go wrong at all!

viz · January 2004

Thanks for your assurance.

bmw_lover · January 2004

Hi all guys im new member here. I wanna buy the new 530i but im a fraid about the maintanance cost. I know that BMW main costs alot compared to Merc and Audi What do u think MAintanance is it costy for bmw 5-series usually or not.

riez · January 2004

bmw_lover... You really have to do some basic homework. New BMWs come with:

1. 4/50 bumper-to-bumper warranty.
2. 4/50 free maintenance.

So if you keep the car for 4 years and drive it less than 50,000 miles, you won't pay a thing in maintenance or repairs.

About all you'll have might be a new set of tires, but that will depend upon how you drive. RWD 5 Series really needs dedicated winter tires if you live in the snow belt.

MB, Audi, and other marques also provide free maintenance periods. These can vary in time and mileage so you have to check each one out. The premium Japanese marques like Lexus and Infiniti do not.

If you keep the car more than 4/50, you'll essentially have similar maintenance concerns with any premium European marque.

330iii · February 2004

Can anyone recommend a dealer in the NYC/NJ metro area that will provide a service loaner even if you did not purchase from them? Thanks much!

Correct me if i am wrong but Mercedes' offers free "scheduled" maintenance not like BMW's free "full" maintenance.

jguerra1 · February 2004

I bought a new 1998 528i, have always had it dealer serviced and maintained, and have 74,000 miles. Last year at around 64,000 miles the thermostat, water pump went. I had it replaced. Last week, after a car wash, the thermostat went again. Once the needle lit in the red zone, I immediately pulled over and had it flat bedded to the dealer. The car never over heated. It was repaired and the day after I picked it up the Check Engine light came on. I called the dealer, was advised to check the gas cap. Gas cap was OK, and I returned it to the dealer. The dealer did a diagnostic and said that the 4th cylinder indicator had misfired due to a wet spark plug. The dealer shut the indicator light off, and sent me on my way. That evening, the Check Engine light came on again, I drove approximately 9 miles, the car was running fine. The following morning when I went to start the car, it sounded as if the engine ceased. I have had it flat bedded to the dealer again. How is this possible?

nkwazi2 · February 2004

I bought a 2003 525i last year.
did not opt for the hands free phone installtion at the time of purchase.
Called BMW dealer in Fremont, CA today and they said it can be installed at a cost of $1695 (approx.).
Is there any other way to get it added on without going thru BMW?
Thanks in advance for your help.

vifiver · February 2004

I have about 5 months and 6K miles left of 3/36K coverage on my '01 530i, and am contemplating getting BMW's Full Maintenance Coverage extension to 4 years/50K miles. For $595 and based on my commute, I would essentially be getting about another 12-15 months worth of coverage. The car has just had its Schedule 1 Maintenance completed, and I think I would be paying to cover the next scheduled maintenance plus any unforeseen maintenance items that might crop up. Is this basically a wash or am I missing something? Thanks for your feedback.

cotmc · February 2004

If you just had a Schedule 1 service performed, I believe your next scheduled service will be an oil change service.

I say this based on my experience with a '00 528i I purchased almost 2 years ago as a CPO with 29K miles on the odometer. The Schedule 1 service had been performed during the certification process. I purchased the $595 Full Maintenance Coverage thinking that my next service (at about 45K miles) would be a Schedule 2 Service. I even had a service advisor tell me such! Imagine my surprise when I find out it is only an oil change!!

In my case, this was a wasted purchase, especially because the front brakes were already replaced when they certified the car. With my mostly freeway driving, the rear brakes never reached their indicator bars within 50K miles.

Fortunately for me, I was able to get my alternator and A/C belts replaced, and the control arm bushings replaced, at 49K miles. All in all, I am guessing I probably received about $400 worth of services for that $595 purchase, maybe a little more.

I'm no expert, and I expect many others can share more expertise than I, but if you don't have the front brake pads replaced by 36K miles, then I recommend purchasing the Full Maintenance Package. Or maybe consider waiting; inspecting the wear on your brake pads just before 36K miles, and then decide. I recently enquired about my rear brakes, which are finally wearing down after 53K miles, and a BMW service advisor told me their rear brake service typically runs around $545. Ouch. I'm glad I know an independent shop (that specializes in BMWs) that will do this work for $300.

killick382 · February 2004

Recently purchased a pre-owned 2001 525 wagon (sport package) with 17' wheels.

We live in Calif Bay Area and so while snow not an issue do want to take the car to the mountains on occasion and that requires snow cables / chains. The dealer said would be no problem to put snow cables on the car, though they may have to be special ordered. I've checked with several suppliers all they are all recommending against putting cables on this car due to the low clearance. Anyone have experience putting cables on 17' wheels? and suggestions on where to source in SF Bay area (Marin County)?

Thanks

vifiver · February 2004

Thanks for the insight on your Full Maintenance Coverage experience. I'll verify, but I think the brake pads were replaced just before I bought the car. I'll probably take your advice: hold off on purchasing the coverage and check the brakes again just before 36K.

syku · February 2004

In Rochelle Pk, NJ, Park Ave BMW will provide Service loaners even if you didn't purchase the car from them. The service is very good, but the loaner is a Ford Focus. Sorry.

cotmc · February 2004

Hello! Hope some of you E39 5-series owners can provide some helpful and appreciated feedback!

I purchased a CPO '00 528i Sport less than 2 years ago. Both the original Continentals, and my replacement Yokohamas (ES100s), exhibited very loud road noise after ~10K miles on each set. Both were relatively quiet initially, but eventually they sounded like a set of knobby 4x4 monster truck tires! With the original tires, I was told the noise was caused by "cupping" -- irregular tire wear. My Yokos now seem to be experiencing the same problem.

I had the car's alignment checked, and I was told it was within spec. However, I was told that "within spec" for the 5-series Sport Pkg is not a true "neutral" alignment. I was warned that this performance-oriented alignment may cause some irregular tire wear, depending on the tires.

For all of you who have owned a 5-series Sport for a couple years or longer, does this story ring true? Are there any particular tires that you recommend for improved tread life and reduced pavement noise with these cars?

manybmws · February 2004

Don't install the accesory phone. Get Bluetooth installed for ~$600 by the dealer and get a GSM phone with Bluetooth ~$100.

manybmws · February 2004

I use Michelin Pilot Sport A/S and they are VERY quiet with nice handling and smooth ride.

jbf5 · February 2004

The battery in my '03 530i is completely dead for the second time in the last few months. I'd welcome some expert opinion on whether the battery is defective, or whether I'm just asking too much of it.

Both times have been after a series of snowstorms when I've had to leave the car in the driveway (regrettably, uncovered) for about two weeks -- so there's been a combination of freezing temperatures, and not starting the car for two weeks.

Last time, I had the dealer check the battery after the obligatory tow-truck jumpstart, and they said it tested out fine.

On a related note, does anyone know whether you can jumpstart the car from the trunk? I think the owner's manual says to use the terminals under the hood, but at this point, my easiest access is to the trunk.

Many thanks.

riez · February 2004

cotmc... Welcome to the wonderful world of high performance sedans and the tires that go with them.

My '98 540i6 had the same issues. My initial set of Yokohama AVS100 DB became horribly noisy after about 10K miles. Wearing on the inside, especially the two rears. I also had them do a 4-wheel alignment. Kept them for another 10K (with the noise become worse and worse) before replacing them with ContiSportContact 2s. I only put on about 7K miles on these before I traded her in.

You absolutely must keep in mind a couple things. One, BMW does not recommend tire rotation. Though there are many owners that do rotate, for those that can. But the 540i6 comes with staggered tires (bigger in rear than front) so you can't rotate.

Two, BMW's use their own unique (rather aggressive) suspension set up. You have to compare camber/castor, etc. Not kind to tire wear. They tend to wear tires from the inside. That is how my tires wore.

High performance summer tires tend to be "softer" and have less tire life in them than other tires. The suspension set up combines with this.

My replacement Lexus IS300 had about 3 warning stickers on it talking about tire wear, essentially saying you might be lucky to get 20,000 miles.

bentleyfam25 · February 2004

...a slow short or light left on (can you check?), but oddly enough at my last pass by the dealer I saw a pile of clearly used batteries near the parts department. In any case, it should be covered by your full maintenance, so if a new battery is needed, go for it.

cotmc · February 2004

Thanks, riez and manybmws, for your replies!

I agree with riez. These tires definitely seem to wear out along the inside of the tread. However, I can't see putting up with the tire noise for too long. These tires also grew loud after 10K miles, and you can bet I won't put up with this noise level for another 10K miles!

Since this tire wear problem has occurred with two different sets of tires, it's rather difficult for me to take a chance on the expensive Michelin Pilots. What if they also wear out along the inside and provide similar road noise after 10K miles? I'm almost wondering if I should resign myself to buying new tires every 12K-14K miles, and stay with less expensive models?

I might see if some "Z" all-season tires wear any better than the soft "W" performance tires I've used in the past.

By the way, I never had this problem with either of our previous 3-series cars. I'm guessing they didn't have the same situation (negative camber setting?).

riez · February 2004

cotmc... I just turned the stereo up a bit louder and reminded myself that the tire noise was a small price to pay to drive such a magnificent vehicle as the 540i6! I wasn't going to spend $800-1,000 every 10,000 on new tires. Didn't mind doing it for 20,000 miles.

Just make sure that you car has proper 4-wheel alignment, ensure the tire pressure is right, and the tires are properly mounted/balanced. Then drive the heck out of 'em!

shipo · February 2004

I wonder if the tires on our SP equipped 5ers would be more even if we routinely "tracked" our cars. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

cotmc · February 2004

Well, I decided to order a new set of tires. I'll have about 13K miles on the existing Yokos when I swap them out. The new set will run me about $475 installed at Discount Tire. (All 4 are 235/45R17s.) I went with a new, and cheaper (obviously!), set of Falkens (ST115). The literature stresses these are "quiet" Z-rated tires, but I don't expect them to last any longer than the previous two sets.

I should probably try to take Shipo's advice and take harder corners, to help balance the treadware toward the outside of the tread!

jfgp05 · February 2004

I have a 2001 530i, black. I recently put some scratches and dents on the left rear fender, close to the back door. I did not hit the door at all but it did cause about 6 to 8 inches worth of scratches and dents on the rear fender.

I have gotten 3 estimates so far ($960, $650, $300). The first 2 are from body shops "recommended" by the 2 dealers in town and the 3rd one is from a body shop that claims to repair BMW's (among other foriegn made cars).

Here's my question: has anyone had any experience dealing with body shops not recommended by the BMW dealers and what were your experiences? Thanks!

designman · February 2004

So I'm looking at 15k on the 530 and 10k on the Boxster. My Outback which is almost identical to the 530 in weight has 52k with the original tires and a good 10k left on them. I figure next October I'll be into three sets at once. Do any of these state lotteries give tires as prizes?

cotmc · February 2004

I'd ask the tire dealer for a "volume discount"!

designman · February 2004

I'm gonna ask the tire dealer if he could spare some loose change for a bowl of soup.

srfast · February 2004

dealer's recommendation is always good because of the quality of the work, but it will probably cost you more money. If you decide to go to a non BMW recommended shop, check the shop out. A well organized and clean shop is always a good sign. Ask for references if you really want to be sure. I use a shop that specializes in BMW work. I pay more, but I believe you get what you pay for when it comes to craftsmanship. I am never disappointed.

Hope this helps....JL

seloo · February 2004

I have a 2003 525, Leather, Rear Shade, and no Fold-down Seats.

Over rough roads and speed bumps, I can hear a rattle coming from the rear seats/doors.

I put silicone on the door seals and that did not fix the problem.

Could it be the rear headrests? door panels?

Some of the old messages discussed this issue, but no final resolutions were posted.

Anyone? Anyone?

Thanks!

robopop · February 2004

I have an '01 530 step.(47000 miles) and seem to be having problems with the engine/transmission although the dealer and BMWNA both say it is normal. The situation is when I am in third gear (manual sport mode) and running about 2000 rpm in traffic, the traffic opens up and I accelerate up with about 3/4 pedal, the rpms go up to 3000, drop down about 200 rpms and then continue up normally. This rpm "drop" can happen in 2nd and 4th gear as well. The situation didn't occur for the first 15000 miles and stopped for about 5000 miles after one of the software down loads but now seems to be getting worse. BMW says it has to do with the torque lock up but I don't understand their reasoning. Anyone can explain this to me or have a solution?

george94 · February 2004

Check the tool kit in your trunk. The tools often become loose over period of time.

BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

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