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Steve, Host
Automakers say dealers will repair faulty parts on Lexus, Highlander, Altima and Sentra models.
WASHINGTON -- Toyota Motor Corp. said Wednesday it was recalling 367,500 Toyota and Lexus sport utility vehicles in the United States because a piece in the front console area could come loose and interfere with the gas pedal.
http://www.detroitnews.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20060713/AUTO01/607130390/- 1148
Otherwise I will just say - BUYER BEWARE! - the sunroof is not warranted separately. I am driving around with a duct taped sunroof and unless I fork over the $1400, there is not much else to be done except continue to tell others that - yup, thats duct tape on my sunroof and no, you should not buy a Highlander!
I had a new Toyota Supra that was just out of warranty and the windshield wiper motor quit. Cost me $300 to replace. How many times have you heard of that happening? All my many Toyotas have had sunroofs and none have ever failed.
tidester, host
I appreciate your words of support and advice. I am not going to give up just yet. I still have too much steam to let off.
I had recently done a larger service to replace brakes, 50k maintenance, power steering fluid replacement, induction clean and was hoping it was minor
For those in metro DC, Koons Arlington charged me $300 and took 20% off of the bill given my recent visit.
2. The MAS/Mass Air Flow sensor went bad.
3. Koons was kind enough to give you 20% off?
I'd immediately suspect there's a relationship between 1 and 2, and that 100% off would be much better.
Just a suspicion, mind you.
Power Steering Fluid replacement? Is that in the owner's manuals?
Jonas
The problem is more prevailent in heavily populated areas.
It won't hurt to continue driving with the check engine light on--more an annoyance than anything--but it may cause the fuel mixture to be a bit on the lean side--not a good thing over long term.
You could ask the dealer to just clean it. Just don't be too quick to blame Toyota for this problem. It's common to all makes.
they more worrysome piece was that the VSC light was on so played it safe and paid them.
looks like it a common problem given a few of the other recent posts..
shop. Both said that did not need to be done. In fact, the new rotors have large 2" diameter hole in the center.
Toyota and brake shop said "beat the crap out of them 'til they pop off"...glad I didn't.
What is involved about this axle/grease cap? And can I install the new rotors that won't be locked in place because of the large hole in the center of the rotor? Any help appreciated.
And thanx!
My vague recollection is once the wheel and calipers are removed the rotor simply lifts right off. (I also have a vague recollection that you have to remove a cotter pin and unscrew an axle nut in the center of the rotor but think I'm getting confused with another vehicle I used to own.) Also make sure you are pulling on the rotor itself and not on the stationary shroud encompassing the rotor. If I'm not getting mistaken with my other vehicle there is a threaded hole in the rotor that you can drive a screw in to force the rotor off; I may have had to do this when removing the rotors from my HL.
(One thing I do remember is the HL does not have a dust cap covering the center hole of the rotor. I was somewhat surprised as this was the first vehicle I owned that didn't have one; was almost thinking of trying to purchase a set of dust caps that would fit my HL.)
My 2001 Highlander is doing the exact same thing. Local city use, no oil consumed. On a round trip from Louisiana to Chicago, we burned 5 quarts of oil.
I have a 2006 HL base, V6 4WD just purchased new last month. At highway speeds with the windows rolled up, I can hear a high pitched whine that sounds as if something such as a window is not sealed properly; it sounds like it is in the front area of the interior. It does not sound as though it is mechanical in nature. I let the windows down and up and the whine is still there. I do have the roof rack and hood protector on the vehicle so maybe one of them is causing the whine. Any thoughts?
Thanks
think of an airplane wing cross-section. the thick part goes towards the front, and the thinner part towards the rear. this is the way to get airflow around the cross-member without "singing" or noise created by the non-smooth flow of air over the member surface.
definitely try adjusting the location of the cross bars as was mentioned. some people with racks indicate good results if they move the cross-bars to the rear of the rack.
Another option would be to uninstall them (if convenient) until they are actually needed.
http://www.automotive.com/2005/12/toyota/highlander/recalls/index.html
I'm assuming this is the recall since it's from July 13th.
I apologize if this was posted earlier - just did a quick check under "recall" and didn't see it.
Mike
Thanks
Sounds like it is much better.
I have read that the version in the Prius is a newer generation (4th in the Highlander vs 5th in the Prius - better graphics). Any insight into the truth in that, or are they confusing the DVD versions (4.2 vs 5.1)?
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f0e0a33/65!make=Toyota&model=Highlander%2- 0Hybrid&ed_makeindex=.f0e0a33
Yes, the Prius and Camry have different head units with better resolution and more features.
bad u joint in the lower steering shaft
mine made that noise/feeling when backing up from parked
I notice people are talking about higher RON fuel - I have been running mine on 98 octane for a long time now - love the performance lift it gives but does nothing for my two probs.
What do you all think would happen if I asked dealer to re-set ECU - Car was originally set up to run on 91RON which is our standard - I certainly don't want to go back there.
Thanks
Her's were not loose, but they were replaced anyhow. I guess others rest their foot against this plastic piece and cause pressure on these plastic 'pop-on' fasteners to the point that they come loose or out. Then the top of that plastic extension can fall down and keep the pedal depressed after the driver removes their foot.