Thanks for the responses! I have my concerns about this particular highlander. When I went to look at it, it had already been reduced to just under 18,000. I looked at it yesterday, saw the rust, and left before the salesman could get out of his chair. By the time I got home and posted this message, it had been reduced to 16,000. It seemed too good to be true, and now it just seems like they are desperate to be rid of it. Obviously, I am worried that the rust on the window trim is just the tip of the iceberg.
'07 HL owner here. I was curious if anyone here knows if the 01-07 first generation Highlanders have had any reports of the uncontrolled acceleration issue or brakes. They are not on the recall list and I have not heard of any problems but that doesn't mean anything.
I have an 06. Never had a recall or any problem, other than rear brake disks wearing out prematurely. MIne still runs and rides like new after 4 1/2 years and 87K kilometers (54K miles).
I have not heard of arly highlander problems. Seems toyota has stopped testing of new designs. brakes, throttle, back up lights dim, wind noise from doors, weak key fob button springs- put the remote in your pocket - keys push on the buttons, too sensitive- Buick fobs require more and longer pressure. They just anint testing the products like they used to. And why keep changing the stuff?????
The only problem I've had was the flaky temperature control knob that is well documented. Other than that just normal maintenance items. I've got 55K miles on it, bought it new in May 2004, and still have the orginal brakes and battery.
I think Toyota lost it's focus on quality with the newer recent models.
I think Toyota lost it's focus on quality with the newer recent models.
Agreed, I'm on my 2nd gen 1 HL and have never had any issues with them, no defects or, maintenance problems. They've been the perfect car for me. Sad to say my lease is running out and I don't know what to try and replace it with, nothing out there compares. I was bummed out when the 08 HL came out, too big for me. I may end up just buying it for the residual.
If you've followed these boards for awhile, or read back through the old postings, you'll notice a problem that began when the HL started using "drive by wire" (was that '05?)
Occasionally, when pulling into the fast lane and 'stepping on it', there was an uncomfortable delay before acceleration began. Quite a few stated it was "scary".
Now the new acceleration problems in this recall only reinforce those early posts that there were issues with sensors and/or programming and/or the ECM. But no reports of acceleration or braking issues on those earlier models that I've ever seen here.
Thanks, I've owned an '03 and an '07 and haven't noticed the issue.
The only difference to me was in the transmission. The shift points of the '07 5 speed are not to my liking compared to the '03 4 speed. I've learned to live with it but sometimes when you step on it, the trans. downshifts before it accelerates, really maddening.
My last 3 cars, 1995 Buick w/supercharger, 03 Highlander, and 08 Hyundai Azera all have this dreaded and potentially unsafe "lag" whenever flooring the accelerator.
I dont recall being annoyed by any lag when passing with my V6 2005, and I have a heavy foot. But what does annoy me very much is slowing for a stop sign, then without coming to a full stop, I accelerate, then it downshifts, producing an annoying lurch. My parents' 4 cyl 2002 HL doesn't do that at all, it's smooth. I have always thought this to be a poor engineering problem.
All the Toyota/etc FWD and F/awd vehicles, possibly other marques as well, especially those of asian origin that are more likely to use the same transaxle and firmware source, have this "flaw".
As you slow below 10 mph the transaxle will upshift in order to alleviate the potential for loss of directional control caused by too much inadvertent/unintentional engine compression braking should the roadbed happen to be slippery. It will then NOT shift into 1st gear (from 3rd...4th??) until you come to a final FULL stop....UNLESS you decide to accelerate in the interim, resulting in that annoying lurch.
You will have this same effect as you slow below about 35mph and the trnasaxle upshifts to lower the level of engine compression braking.
Your parents' 4 cyl probably doesn't have enough engine compression braking to be of concern in this matter.
The 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation only occurs subsequent to, quickly following. an upshift. If for some reason the transaxle has begun an upshift sequence (2 seconds) or having just completed one (1 second) the DBW system will be used to delay rising engine torque, ignoring the gas pedal position, until the transaxle full completes the now required downshift.
Not that I could afford otherwise, but this conversation just reinforces my plan to keep our '03 HL and not trade for newer...
I had over 200,000 miles on the Taurus that we traded for this Highlander. Figuring if I could get that many on a Ford, I fully anticipated clocking 300,000 on a Toyota, but now may start aiming for the half-million mark!
I just purchased a new 2010 Highlander Limited AWD. Can anyone tell me about driving in the 'S' gear which is adjacent to the 'D' on the shifter. I accidently put it in this gear and drove about 30 miles @ 70mph before I realized I wasn't in DRIVE. Is this okay, and under what conditions would you use this gear. Any feedback would be appreciated.
You use the "S" setting to manually change gears 1-5. Whatever gear you're in (while in "D") will be maintained upon the change to "S," but any gear changes while in "S" are up to you.
Presumably, you were already at 70mph when you bumped your shifter to "S," in which case you were in 5th gear. Perhaps a bit of a sacrifice on mileage, but not much else.
However, if you drove for 30 miles @ 70mph in 4th or even worse, 3rd gear, I'd be worried you put a lot of unnecessary revs on the motor. In 2nd or 1st, you would have blown it up, so I'm sure that wasn't the case.
The "S" gear is for taking off on "Snow". It's actually 2nd gear. It will then shift throughout the range of gears (after 2nd) just as if you started in "Drive". Check your manual, it will verify this. It has absolutely nothing with manual shifting of gears. You're fine, no damage done at all.
Just a slight clarification (if it wasn't clear). In S you start off in second gear rather than first. 2nd has less torque multiplication than first, so you're less likely to spin your tires. Earlier models had a Snow Mode button near the base of the shifter.
Then why does my manual say differently and my vehicle behave differently than what you describe? There is a "snow mode" button at the bottom of the shifter next to the DAC "downhill assist" button.
I had my oil changed on my 06 Highlander and immediately my tire pressure light came on. Turns out they had put too much pressure in my tires. It's still on, but I'm thinking it's because they didn't lower the pressure in my spare. A week later, my check engine light also comes on, along with the VSC and TracOff lights. They're telling me it's a Code 420, which is Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold and I need the whole new exhaust manifold, since the catalytic converter is welded to the exhaust manifold. Toyota wants $506, and my mechanic will mark that up I'm sure, along with labor.
I've searched the internet, and others who've had the same symptoms turned out to have a different issue. Any thoughts on whether the manifold really does have to be changed, or could it be something else? Thanks for the input.
Sounds like you might be getting a "customer shakedown". It might pay you to take the vehicle to another mechanic and get a second, and even third opinion.
I once had a crack in the manifold in a pontiac and found someone to remove it and weld the crack and put it back in place. It was a muffler company that took it off and sent it out to a welder. It was a lot cheaper. Talk to some shops to see if they know a welder to do the work. BTW I had the car 5 years after and never a problem. Always passed the state inspection in Taxsylvania
Tire pressure is not read. The tire pressure monitor only reads rpms of the wheels to notice a difference in tire pressure, therefore spare tire is not monitored. 2nd generation Highlanders have actual pressure sensors.
my tire pressure light came on. Turns out they had put too much pressure in my tires. It's still on, but I'm thinking it's because they didn't lower the pressure in my spare
Sounds like they didn't hit and hold the reset button, instructions should be in the owner's manual. If they can't do that right, I wouldn't trust them under the hood. Take your vehicle to another mechanic.
I drive about 11k miles per year and I have always went to the dealer for scheduled maintenance. I have come across a maintenance schedule online that could be done at specific intervals which would save money, especially at the dealer. Can anyone tell me if I would be safe in following this maintenance list for my Highlander? The only thing I am unsure of is the Power Steering Fluid and Brake Fluid at 45k, my dealer says they never do this. Some other Highlander online tell me they have over 100k miles and all they have done is changed their oil over the years, is this something that can be true....honestly now. My Highlander is paid off, bought brand new and to ignore scheduled maintenance is foolish if you ask me. I just don't feel like paying the dealer alot for "checking" things anymore.
5k Oil Change 5k Rotate and Balance 10k Check Alignment 30k Air Filter 30k Cabin Filter 30k Transmission Fluid 45k Rear Differential Oil 45k Transfer Case Oil 45k Power Steering Fluid 45k Brake Fluid 45k Engine Coolant 90k Tune Up 90k Timing Belt 90k Thermostat 90k Water Pump
I agree with the dealership and the others...... no need to replace/change those other fluids out. they are sealed units and no reason for the lubricants etc. to be changed unless a problem arises.
That is correct. Have you read the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual? That will differ significantly from the dealer recommended service. Here's my opinion on the items I didn't mention and as such ignore. Others may disagree:
5K balance tires. Nope, only needed if I notice a vibration at highway speeds.
10K check alignment. Nope, only needed if tires are wearing uneven, or vehicle is pulling to one side, also may be needed if vibration at highway speeds
30k transmission fluid. Do what your owner's manual says. Most likely it will say something like "replace at 60K if towing, or if it changes color to brown from bright pink.
45K Rear Differential Oil, Transfer Case Oil, Power Steering Fluid. That is so laughable that they recommend changing these. As someone as already stated, those are in sealed units and no need to replace.
90k Tune Up Do this only if the vehicle is running rough. The days of doing a regular tune up have long past.
90k Timing Belt. Check your owner's manual. I have an 04 HL 4 cyl that does not have the belt, it has the chain, but your owner's manual will tell you if/when to do this
90k Thermostat. If the temp. of my vehicle is fine, why would I ever change this?
90k Water Pump Nope again, unless I had to change the timing belt as usually they have to remove the water pump anyway. You would also want to change the accessory belts during the timing belt change. Most dealers will have a "timing belt change special" where they will do the belt, water pump, and accessory belts all at once.
I also check all the fluids and tire pressure on my vehicles at least monthly.
Hope this helps. And I'm curious if others think I'm scrimping as well, but this has been pretty successful for me
You left out rotate tires. I'm a firm believer that it extends your tire life. I rotate every other oil change which for me happens 3-5k when it's convenient for me.
Others have also said that they never replaced the Rear Differential Oil, Transfer Case Oil, Power Steering Fluid. What about Brake fluid? My dealer says they only do this when the brakes are changed.
Comments
was the car a katrina underwater car?
I think the owners manual tell u how to replace
What type of throttle does it use? DBW?
thanks, concerned owner.
Seems toyota has stopped testing of new designs.
brakes, throttle, back up lights dim, wind noise from doors, weak key fob button springs- put the remote in your pocket - keys push on the buttons, too sensitive- Buick fobs require more and longer pressure.
They just anint testing the products like they used to.
And why keep changing the stuff?????
I think Toyota lost it's focus on quality with the newer recent models.
Agreed, I'm on my 2nd gen 1 HL and have never had any issues with them, no defects or, maintenance problems. They've been the perfect car for me. Sad to say my lease is running out and I don't know what to try and replace it with, nothing out there compares. I was bummed out when the 08 HL came out, too big for me. I may end up just buying it for the residual.
Occasionally, when pulling into the fast lane and 'stepping on it', there was an uncomfortable delay before acceleration began. Quite a few stated it was "scary".
Now the new acceleration problems in this recall only reinforce those early posts that there were issues with sensors and/or programming and/or the ECM. But no reports of acceleration or braking issues on those earlier models that I've ever seen here.
Phil
The only difference to me was in the transmission. The shift points of the '07 5 speed are not to my liking compared to the '03 4 speed. I've learned to live with it but sometimes when you step on it, the trans. downshifts before it accelerates, really maddening.
That 1-2 second downshift delay was/is intentionally incorporated into the engine/transaxle ECU firmware.
"To protect the drive train".
SOP.
All the Toyota/etc FWD and F/awd vehicles, possibly other marques as well, especially those of asian origin that are more likely to use the same transaxle and firmware source, have this "flaw".
As you slow below 10 mph the transaxle will upshift in order to alleviate the potential for loss of directional control caused by too much inadvertent/unintentional engine compression braking should the roadbed happen to be slippery. It will then NOT shift into 1st gear (from 3rd...4th??) until you come to a final FULL stop....UNLESS you decide to accelerate in the interim, resulting in that annoying lurch.
You will have this same effect as you slow below about 35mph and the trnasaxle upshifts to lower the level of engine compression braking.
Your parents' 4 cyl probably doesn't have enough engine compression braking to be of concern in this matter.
The 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation only occurs subsequent to, quickly following. an upshift. If for some reason the transaxle has begun an upshift sequence (2 seconds) or having just completed one (1 second) the DBW system will be used to delay rising engine torque, ignoring the gas pedal position, until the transaxle full completes the now required downshift.
I had over 200,000 miles on the Taurus that we traded for this Highlander. Figuring if I could get that many on a Ford, I fully anticipated clocking 300,000 on a Toyota, but now may start aiming for the half-million mark!
Phil
Presumably, you were already at 70mph when you bumped your shifter to "S," in which case you were in 5th gear. Perhaps a bit of a sacrifice on mileage, but not much else.
However, if you drove for 30 miles @ 70mph in 4th or even worse, 3rd gear, I'd be worried you put a lot of unnecessary revs on the motor. In 2nd or 1st, you would have blown it up, so I'm sure that wasn't the case.
In S you start off in second gear rather than first. 2nd has less torque multiplication than first, so you're less likely to spin your tires.
Earlier models had a Snow Mode button near the base of the shifter.
I just assumed the S you were talking about had replaced the snow mode.
I'll shut up now.
I'm assuming this s gear is on the gen 2 HL transmission(6 speed) only.
My '07 HL has the "DCT snow mode" button which eliminates 1st gear.
I've searched the internet, and others who've had the same symptoms turned out to have a different issue. Any thoughts on whether the manifold really does have to be changed, or could it be something else? Thanks for the input.
Always passed the state inspection in Taxsylvania
Sounds like they didn't hit and hold the reset button, instructions should be in the owner's manual. If they can't do that right, I wouldn't trust them under the hood. Take your vehicle to another mechanic.
57k miles
I drive about 11k miles per year and I have always went to the dealer for scheduled maintenance. I have come across a maintenance schedule online that could be done at specific intervals which would save money, especially at the dealer. Can anyone tell me if I would be safe in following this maintenance list for my Highlander? The only thing I am unsure of is the Power Steering Fluid and Brake Fluid at 45k, my dealer says they never do this. Some other Highlander online tell me they have over 100k miles and all they have done is changed their oil over the years, is this something that can be true....honestly now. My Highlander is paid off, bought brand new and to ignore scheduled maintenance is foolish if you ask me. I just don't feel like paying the dealer alot for "checking" things anymore.
5k Oil Change
5k Rotate and Balance
10k Check Alignment
30k Air Filter
30k Cabin Filter
30k Transmission Fluid
45k Rear Differential Oil
45k Transfer Case Oil
45k Power Steering Fluid
45k Brake Fluid
45k Engine Coolant
90k Tune Up
90k Timing Belt
90k Thermostat
90k Water Pump
5k - Oil Change
5k - Rotate tires
30k - Air Filter
30k - Cabin Filter
When the brake pads need replacing - Brake Fluid
45k - Engine Coolant
I have never agreed to a dealer's routine scheduled service pack and I spend VERY little on repairs, doing so only on an as-needed basis.
5K balance tires. Nope, only needed if I notice a vibration at highway speeds.
10K check alignment. Nope, only needed if tires are wearing uneven, or vehicle is pulling to one side, also may be needed if vibration at highway speeds
30k transmission fluid. Do what your owner's manual says. Most likely it will say something like "replace at 60K if towing, or if it changes color to brown from bright pink.
45K Rear Differential Oil, Transfer Case Oil, Power Steering Fluid. That is so laughable that they recommend changing these. As someone as already stated, those are in sealed units and no need to replace.
90k Tune Up Do this only if the vehicle is running rough. The days of doing a regular tune up have long past.
90k Timing Belt. Check your owner's manual. I have an 04 HL 4 cyl that does not have the belt, it has the chain, but your owner's manual will tell you if/when to do this
90k Thermostat. If the temp. of my vehicle is fine, why would I ever change this?
90k Water Pump Nope again, unless I had to change the timing belt as usually they have to remove the water pump anyway. You would also want to change the accessory belts during the timing belt change. Most dealers will have a "timing belt change special" where they will do the belt, water pump, and accessory belts all at once.
I also check all the fluids and tire pressure on my vehicles at least monthly.
Hope this helps. And I'm curious if others think I'm scrimping as well, but this has been pretty successful for me
I covered that in my first post, and yes I do that when I change the oil & filter.
Also covered in my first post, and yes when the brake pads need changing, I also have them do the brake fluid.