i have a 2000 catera i have put much money in it now im having this problem plus abs light tc light level light and power stearing problems when these lights come on took it to one shop they told too many codes needs togot the dealer but im now looking for another cadillac and this catera is almost paid off but ive already put plenty of money into it and now its really getting old
where in the car is the multi-function relay located? Is it under the hood or under the dash? Close to what? This is the relay that controls the radio, gas cap and trunk. :confuse:
Superior Cadillac of Kansas City replaced the relay. Their service department # is 800-549-6531 give them a call and the part #. They should be able to help you out.
I need some body parts for a 2000 catera I love this car and it has being very hard to find parts for it I neeed a hood and front bumper it is a 2000 catera.
I have 98 catera I just got it out the shop and I tried to play my cd but it will not play it keep telling me cd error what does that mean is my memory off or what.
I SIT AND WAIT FOR MY SHIFT TO COME OUT OF GEAR??WHEN I GET IN MY CAR AND TURN IT ON ,,IT I HAVE TO FIDDLE WITH IT TO GET IT OUT OF PARK???? WHATS GOING ON??
i have a 2000 catera and this happened to me twice on your break there is two switches one is the cruise control switch and aslo the break light stop switch i think there are both next together replace both of them at the same time and you should be ok all they are is safety switches. you can also bypass them with a jumper wire i had to just toget my car back to my house.
Hi Folks, I am new to the forum, my name is Sean and I own a 97 Sport with 116K miles on it. Recently it would not start, dead battery. Jumped it, got the electriacl system tested at a Firestone store. Checked OK. A few weeks later - the same thing - but for several days I would jump it, Volt gauge woud show a healthy charge taking place then I'd come back later and battery would be dead again. Then for weeks it was fine. Now - its more the rule than the exception. Anyone have an idea as to would is going on? Do I have an intermittant short somewhere? Thanks in advance -- Sean
I have a 98 Catera, with 106,000 miles, the check eng light came on about three months ago, but it was running fine so I hadn't bothered with it, then a few weeks ago , it started sputtering very lightly at idle, which has became worse and is now a dead misfire, sometimes it runs well at first then the misfire returns after several miles, I scanned it and got a secondary air injection code plus a random misfire, #5, and #2 misfire, my question is could the secondary air injection be a likely cause for the misfire ?..., or is it more likely a separate problem causing the misfire ?..., I noticed that the #2 and #5 wires are adjacent to each other where they plug on the coil pack, so could there be arcing between them ? Also I cleared the codes and now the secondary air injection, catalist, and evap IM status won't reset, is that normal given the other problems I mentioned ? And I also would like to know what are the most common causes of the secondary air injection problems ?...I found a broken vacuum line and fixed that but it didn't help, or maybe it did but the misfire is causing it not to reset ?
yes i have an 2000 catera the miss firing that you have going on is the spark plugs and its time to replace them and prob your coils also. mine started to miss fire at 125000 miles replace all spark plugs and one coil. other than that the code for the air flow i have that code also and im am not sure what is causing that problem if you find out please let me know and reply to that thanks.
acurry i have a catera as well and the abs light, tc light and the speed and odometer are not working. did you find out what was causing yours. i was told to get a new speed sensor and that there are two minor exhaust leaks. i just spent a "GRIP" on repairs a month or so ago. the lights on the dash went out and came right back on. i have gotten a new o2 sensor, fuel pump...............
yes i have an exhaust leak also i can hear it a guy tried a speed sensor off another catera and it didnt make a difference at all took it to the dealer said i need a new computer and its really getting high on cost due to the money i have already put into the car for many prev repairs
I am replying to an older message by " vickorlac" I got a wake up call my first summer with a '97 Cat that I bought used ( but fully serviced by a Volkswagon Mechanic ! ) Oil pressure bottomed triggering the alarm/idiot light. What was suggested was using an oil stabilizer and the one I prefer is the Lucas brand. ( I know,. I hate plugs ) The maunal calls for 5W-30 but under heat and pressure most motor oils can liquify too much, hence the oil stabilizer. Caution: ensure your oil sender and gauge is calibrated to within reason, and don't overdo it with the Lucas stuff ( 1/3 bottle will do in most cases ). Also in summer months I tend to blend QUALITY motor oils of the same brand but different visc rating - sometimes 20W-40/50 and my oil pressure is now quite healty at idle. My big problem with the German Caddy is the front facia is a tad low. Ouch !
What the heck.... I just experienced the same problem this morning! I thought because I was in Canada and its getting cold that something must of contracted. Can anyone come up with a solution.
Hello. I'm very new here. I've been watching this forum for some time now and decided to join. I bought a 2000 Cadillac Catera for $6300 with 59,665 miles on it 11 months ago. I have had only (1) issue with the car since I bought it. A wear and tear item went out on me and was a bit pricy to fix, around $450. The dealer was upfront with me and told me about the oil leak the car had. Like others in this forum have described, it's coming from behind the valve cover on the passenger side and rolling to the driver's side and then burning off on top of the engine. Little poofs of smoke can be seen escaping from under the hood on the driver's side from time to time. I have not had an estimate yet to fix it but I have had it looked at. The repair shop that looked at the problem told me that not alot of oil was escaping but it could get worse if I don't have it fixed in a reasonable amount of time. I am concerned about a couple of other things I have noticed during the summer months with the car. Perhaps someone here has had this happen to them. This summer has been hot and one day a few months ago, the car began to run a little hot. I didn't pay too much attention to it but as the weeks progressed, the car began to run hotter. There were a couple of times that I was forced to shut the car off for fear of burning up the engine. Now it is very cold outside but the car still likes to run a little hot. Anybody know what the deal is with that? Any tips to keep this girl cooled off? Fans not kicking on? Add another couple of fans? Also, it's rare, I mean really rare but sometimes when I jump on the expressway, I speed up and somewhere between 50 and 60 MPH the car falls into snow gear. A light on the dash flashes repeatedly. If I stop the car, it is in 3rd gear and accelerates very slowly. The only way to return the car to normal operation is to turn it off and then back on again. Very odd and rare. Anybody have that happen to them? In any event, the car now has 71,000 miles and other than a couple of nuisance issues, I love it. I'm sorry to hear that others have not had good experiences with this model car. I guess I have been lucky. At any rate, if anyone can provide some tips I would appreciate it. Thanks a million.
Greetings all. I just replaced my brakes and rotors on the front. I ran in to a couple of problems. The rotors are secured by an extra allen type bolt used during assembly. Both were seized up so I drilled off the head of the bolt. I used some cobalt drill bits and they cut through it like butter. After putting the new rotor on I snapped off a bolt that holds the caliper on. The local Lowes had a replacement.
I've had reasonably good luck with my `00 Catera since I've bought it ~3 years ago(knock on wood). The CSPS was the biggest repair although I've had a coolant leak on the driver side around the time of purchase and can't remember exactly what it was they fixed. Whatever it was the dealership said it was a fairly common problem. I'm at 96k miles so I'm sure the worst is to come. I'll keep you updated.
I have a 2001 Catera. The zone climate control is malfunctioning. On the driver's side, it blows out cold air, while on the passenger side, it blows hot air. This in spite of the fact that the temperatures settings are identical for both sides. Any suggestions?
only a portion of the center high-mounted stoplamp works, on my recently purchased 1998 catera, looking through the owners manual, it shows how to replace all bulbs except these. manual says ' see your dealer '. there is a snap on type trunk lid liner, must this be taken off ? I'm afraid if I do take it off the plastic snaps will break ..as they often do and the liner will not attatch as secure. Thanks
recently purchased 1998 Catera this seems really strange, but my heater / defrost / rw defogger will not come on untill the car is put in Drive gear and go mabey 20 feet or so. It's getting COLD here in Wisconsin and I would like to warm up and defog / defrost ' BEFORE ' I pull out of the drive way and into moving traffic. tried auto mode, manual mode and " NADA " any help would be mucho appreciated.
well all i know about the third light is that the dealer has to replace that light. and trust me its a pain that is the only one that you cannot replace
You probably have a door that is not opening & closing. It is located in behind dash. I have same problem. My right side kicks out hot air & left side cold. You will probably have to take it to Cadillac dealer & have it diagnosed. I took mine to a reputable mechanic but he couldn't diagnose the problem.
Crankshaft position sensor needs replacing. It is located behind oil filter & line runs up just below firewall area. I had same problem. Would run a few minutes & die.
Advice requested. Own '01 catera with more repairs done than I can list. Latest problem is car went in day before warranty expired with oil light on and low oil pressure. Dealer added 1 Qt. oil and sent me on my way. (oil had been changed about 3400 miles prior) Car had been in on many occassions with oil light or engine light on. Warranty expires and 3months and 3000 miles later, car had loud engine noise- diagnosis- damaged lifters/ badly damaged cylinder heads, burned and scarred camshafts, camshaft bearing surface and camshaft bearing caps due to lack of oil. Estimate- $7000.00. I contacted cadillac and asked how all of this could happen in less than 4000 miles. Basically told- my problem.
Hi everyone ! i got a 97 catera and my break pad wear light and the radiator light came on. I changed my breaks but the problem still there. Matter of fact, while driving when i step on the breaks, the wheel shakes...anybody out there, please help. thank you...
2000 catera starts then revs to 2000 rpms then dies or idles rough just replaced valve cover gaskets had oil leaking i plug wells allso replaced crank shaft position sensor need help does not throw any codes
I have succesfully done a small block engine swap in my 97 Catera.. as most of you I had problems with my electrical system that was going to cost alot of money to fix.. therefore after reading many horror stories I decided that It was in my better interest to keep the car.. #1 reason.. I really like the car...#2 nobody would buy it anyways.. but i did a 5.7L 350 swap with a TH-400 and used the stock rear end.. and wow what a difference I have all the style of a cadillac with the performance it should have had originally.. I plan on starting a website with pics soon for you guys that wanted to see it done :surprise:
Small block swap is a good idea...GM builds the same car in their GM Holdens division in Australia. They will import this car as the Pontiac G8 later this year. Very good platform and great performance [eats BMWs].
PS: my 2000 Catera is still running strong with 98k miles, with no electrical problems.
Hello everyone, I've got a black 2000 Catera I've had for 3 yrs bought it with 61,000 mi as a lease trade in. I've not had any problems until just recently as it's about to roll over to 99,000 mi. I'm starting to smell the oil and see the little smoke coming from the hood on the passenger side. There was one feed on here this summer that got my attention that made me copy and store it on my computer for future reference. Just thought I'd repost it for all the newcomers to save a lot of questions, the guy seems to be really credible. GOOD LUCK!!! Oh yeah... Thanks CADDYGUY1
#297 of 406 Lets Shed Some Light on the issues by caddyguy1 May 05, 2007 (6:35 am)  Total Posts: 1 Member Since: May 05, 2007 Replying to: cissie (May 04, 2007 5:18 am)
Hello I am a master certified GM technician. Not currently in a GM dealership I work at a BMW/MINI dealership. I worked at a Cadillac dealership for about 6 years. First of all Cateras are not that hard to work on. Many GM technicians have problems with it b/c they are used to GM this is not a GM it is basically an Opel which is German. Let me tell you guys a few of the problems these cars have Battery Draw---Check the rear defroster relay (they stick) Oil Leaks---Valve Covers and Head Gaskets Coolant Leaks---Water control valve, Head gasket, oil cooler cover Problems with Oil Pressure----Pressure sensor or the actual gauge(it can be replaced separate of the whole cluster) Coolant Light stays on---replace the jug it has a sensor (or sometimes you can beat on it and it will go out) No start---crank sensor (only replaced on fuel pump in 6 years on a catera) Rough Running---Pull spark plug boot check for leaking valve covers. Also the ignition coils would go bad on these. Cant get vehicle out of park---Needs the Shifter assembly. Have not seen a whole lot of transmission issues. Noise from front of Engine----most likely timing belt related. I have replaced a lot of A/C control panels. I have replaced a few a/c door actuators for air not blowing out of proper position. I have replaced quite a few brake light switches. I have replaced few wheels speed sensors I have replaced quite a few o2 sensors. I have seen a few Air Injection faults. As I said these cars are German with some GM influence. Thing is Saab uses the same engine as the 3.0 catera and had not had half the problems the catera has. These car are not hard to fix, can be tricky to diagnose.
Hi, everybody. I have several problems with my 2000 Catera, but now I want to ask if somebody had the same problem. When I drive my Catera for some time, after shutting down the engine I cannot start it again for a half hour. I have to wait a the it would start again. Could you tell me what is happening?
Hey Helik, yes several people have had the same problem and found it to be the Crank Sensor that needed replacing. Lots of people talked about it in this forum over the summer. It's my understanding that when it was hot you would have to let it cool off before trying to restart it and that was the only way of knowing it was bad. Hope this puts you in the right direction.
My 1997 catera has been the car from (----) replaced radiator,ac,and now the pulleys on the timing belt went out does anyone know if this an interference motor the dealer said they dont know
M y daughter bought a1997 catera 6 months ago and i am still repairing it ac radiator and now timing tensioner assembly do you know if this is an interference engine? I am frustrated HELP
I DON'T KNOW IF THIS LADY IS EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEM THAT I AM HAVING. WHEN I DRIVE MY CAR, JUST HAVING AN ALTERNATOR AND A BATTERY INSTALLED. AFTER LEAVING THE REPAIR SHOP. I DROVE FOR ABOUT 9 MILES IN THE EVENING TRAFFIC AND THE CAR SPUTTERS AND THEN ON ABOUT THE 10TH MILE 3 BLOCKS FROM MY HOME, THE CAR STALLS AND WILL NOT RESTART. AFTER HAVING IT TOWED. I STARTED THE CAR AND LET IT RUN IN THE DRIVEWAY, MY HUSBAND DROVE IT ABOUT 4 BLOCKS FROM OUR HOME AND THE CARD STOPS AGAIN. AFTER 2 HRS I WENT BACK WITH SOMEONE TO DRIVE THE CAR HOME BEFORE CALL A TOW TRUCK AND THE CAR STARTS. IT IS DRIVEN BACK HOME. DROVE IT ABOUT TO THE STORE 2 BLOCKS FROM MY HOME NO PROBLEM. WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO DRIVE TO WORK THIS MORNING, THE CAR STALLED AFTER WARMING TO STANDARD OPERATING TEMPERATURE. I LET IT COOL DOWN FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES AND THE CAR STARTED BACK UP. I DROVE FOR ABOUT 1.5 MILES AND THE CAR STALLS ON THE EXIT NEAR MY JOB. 2 HRS LATER I 2 EMPLOYEES TO PICK UP MY CAR AND IT STARTED RIGHT AWAY. CAN YOU PLEASE GIVE ME INCITE?
Comments
Here's the link:
http://www.edmunds.com/dealerships/drr/jump.html
I am new to the forum, my name is Sean and I own a 97 Sport with 116K miles on it. Recently it would not start, dead battery. Jumped it, got the electriacl system tested at a Firestone store. Checked OK. A few weeks later - the same thing - but for several days I would jump it, Volt gauge woud show a healthy charge taking place then I'd come back later and battery would be dead again. Then for weeks it was fine. Now - its more the rule than the exception. Anyone have an idea as to would is going on? Do I have an intermittant short somewhere?
Thanks in advance -- Sean
Also I cleared the codes and now the secondary air injection, catalist, and evap IM status won't reset, is that normal given the other problems I mentioned ?
And I also would like to know what are the most common causes of the secondary air injection problems ?...I found a broken vacuum line and fixed that but it didn't help, or maybe it did but the misfire is causing it not to reset ?
wake up call my first summer with a '97 Cat that I bought
used ( but fully serviced by a Volkswagon Mechanic ! ) Oil
pressure bottomed triggering the alarm/idiot light. What
was suggested was using an oil stabilizer and the one I prefer is the Lucas brand. ( I know,. I hate plugs ) The
maunal calls for 5W-30 but under heat and pressure most
motor oils can liquify too much, hence the oil stabilizer.
Caution: ensure your oil sender and gauge is calibrated to
within reason, and don't overdo it with the Lucas stuff ( 1/3 bottle will do in most cases ). Also in summer months I tend to blend QUALITY motor oils of the same brand but different visc rating - sometimes 20W-40/50 and my oil pressure is now quite healty at idle. My big problem with the German Caddy is the front facia is a tad low. Ouch !
Thanks
Tony Rinella
I just replaced my brakes and rotors on the front. I ran in to a couple of problems. The rotors are secured by an extra allen type bolt used during assembly. Both were seized up so I drilled off the head of the bolt. I used some cobalt drill bits and they cut through it like butter. After putting the new rotor on I snapped off a bolt that holds the caliper on. The local Lowes had a replacement.
I've had reasonably good luck with my `00 Catera since I've bought it ~3 years ago(knock on wood). The CSPS was the biggest repair although I've had a coolant leak on the driver side around the time of purchase and can't remember exactly what it was they fixed. Whatever it was the dealership said it was a fairly common problem. I'm at 96k miles so I'm sure the worst is to come. I'll keep you updated.
there is a snap on type trunk lid liner, must this be taken off ? I'm afraid if I do take it off the plastic snaps will break ..as they often do and the liner will not attatch as secure.
Thanks
this seems really strange, but my heater / defrost / rw defogger will not come on untill the car is put in Drive gear
and go mabey 20 feet or so.
It's getting COLD here in Wisconsin and I would like to warm up and defog / defrost ' BEFORE ' I pull out of the drive way and into moving traffic. tried auto mode, manual mode and " NADA " any help would be mucho appreciated.
Did warranty expire because of in service date or miles?
When did you purchase car [exact date] and from dealer?
i got a 97 catera and my break pad wear light and the radiator light came on. I changed my breaks but the problem still there. Matter of fact, while driving when i step on the breaks, the wheel shakes...anybody out there, please help.
thank you...
PS: my 2000 Catera is still running strong with 98k miles, with no electrical problems.
#297 of 406
Lets Shed Some Light on the issues by caddyguy1 May 05, 2007 (6:35 am) 
Total Posts: 1
Member Since:
May 05, 2007
Replying to: cissie (May 04, 2007 5:18 am)
Hello I am a master certified GM technician. Not currently in a GM dealership I work at a BMW/MINI dealership. I worked at a Cadillac dealership for about 6 years.
First of all Cateras are not that hard to work on. Many GM technicians have problems with it b/c they are used to GM this is not a GM it is basically an Opel which is German.
Let me tell you guys a few of the problems these cars have
Battery Draw---Check the rear defroster relay (they stick)
Oil Leaks---Valve Covers and Head Gaskets
Coolant Leaks---Water control valve, Head gasket, oil cooler cover
Problems with Oil Pressure----Pressure sensor or the actual gauge(it can be replaced separate of the whole cluster)
Coolant Light stays on---replace the jug it has a sensor (or sometimes you can beat on it and it will go out)
No start---crank sensor (only replaced on fuel pump in 6 years on a catera)
Rough Running---Pull spark plug boot check for leaking valve covers. Also the ignition coils would go bad on these.
Cant get vehicle out of park---Needs the Shifter assembly.
Have not seen a whole lot of transmission issues.
Noise from front of Engine----most likely timing belt related.
I have replaced a lot of A/C control panels.
I have replaced a few a/c door actuators for air not blowing out of proper position.
I have replaced quite a few brake light switches.
I have replaced few wheels speed sensors
I have replaced quite a few o2 sensors.
I have seen a few Air Injection faults.
As I said these cars are German with some GM influence. Thing is Saab uses the same engine as the 3.0 catera and had not had half the problems the catera has. These car are not hard to fix, can be tricky to diagnose.
I have several problems with my 2000 Catera, but now I want to ask if somebody had the same problem. When I drive my Catera for some time, after shutting down the engine I cannot start it again for a half hour. I have to wait a the it would start again. Could you tell me what is happening?
This forum has alot of good info on it.