For filling gear oil also consider a "Suction Gun". Looks like a grease gun but has a rubber hose outlet. Costs <$10 at Tractor Supply or other auto parts. Pull the lever, it fills up, push the lever, it drains out.
on the tire rotation issue. I still don't see a good reason for not cross rotating, by I will follow it. Fortunately, I only have 24,500 miles on my OBW (and 8k or so of that was on the snows), so I cannot imagine that there could be any real damage, especially in light of the following:
Out of curiosity, I took some tread depth measurements to see how uniformly they were wearing. Numbers are x/32". This is a 5 rib design, and only the 4 inside channels are full depth (the rest of the blocks close up at varying depths, greatly changing the tread design). I took the measurements at 3 points across the tread:
Conclusions: Overall wear is on target, and quite even all around. Original depth was 10 or 11 / 32, IIRC on the RE92's. With legal limit = 2/32", projected range would exceed 50k miles if I adjust the tire pressure upwards slightly to compensate for the lower center wear. Then again, with how badly they handle, why would I want to?
We've talked about various iPod strategies, and people on other forums have tried some. If your radio has any type of CD-changer input, it is possible if you are adventurous and are comfortable with electronics.
On the 05 Legacy/Outback, we're dead in the water since there is no input jack on the radio at all. Even the antenna jack is non-standard, so using an inline FM modulator is going to be difficult.
I'm quite comfy with electronics. My thought was to use the CD changer control input. However, I don't know what the pin-out is, etc. I guess that's what I'm looking for at this point in the game. Any help would be appreciated!
IPOD/Satellite Connection - Subaru of America appear to have done everything possible to prevent this in the 2005 Outback/Legacy. I'm currently trying to source the McIntosh Stereo faceplate etc that Subaru offers in Japan, Australia, New Zealand etc. Looks like we could fit "real" stereos into this hole? Why is this not offered as an upgrade option in the US? These links might rub salt in the wound........
Yeah, I am a little peeved about the stereo -- it's a step backwards in my opinion. My wife's 03 Forester stereo had 6CD changer *plus* cassette, weather band, and a CD changer jack on the back. The new radio in the 05 Leg/OB is considerably less capable and less expandable in my opinion.
If somebody makes an antenna adapter for SUbaru's non-standard antenna plug, we can at least wire in an FM modulator but that's not very good sound quality. Regardless, that's not even an option yet!
It will be difficult/expensive to install one of the foreign stereo options since the climate control is integrated into the face plate. Good luck finding a plate with the US-compatible climate controls!!
IMHO Subaru has take a huge step back - all the way to the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable idea of integrating the radio right into the climate control console. Its one of my pet peeves when looking at the 05's.
Ford was roundly (and rightly) criticized for doing that.
It was a while before the aftermarket faceplates were available and then they were (are?) very expensive. That was one of the reasons I ordered my Sables with the Mach audio and CD built in - not the greatest audio, but way too expensive to upgrade the base system.
Hope this is the right forum. I had a question about a quote I received from a Subaru dealership for my 45,000 mi service appointment. (I have a 2001 Outback wagon.)
From the Subaru site, it looks like this includes: Replace - oil and oil filter Inspect - Disc brake pads and discs/Front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions, Clutch system, Steering and suspension system Perform - Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system, Rotate and inspect tires
The dealership quoted me $345 and told me it would take 2-2.5 hours. I told a friend of mine, and he seemed to think this was very high for only a series of inspections and an oil change.
So, can someone here help me out? Is this quote in the right ballpark? Or am I being taken for a ride?
Any help you can offer would be wonderful. Thanks.
I'll second that. Given the importance most buyers place on sound these days, I can't believe Subaru didn't unearth this in focus groups while the car was in development.
I -very much- like the look of the integrated console, but, if you are going to do it that way, you -have- to offer the buyer some flexibility in terms of an optional system, and you have to anticipate technological developments like inputs for personal music players.
Total ripoff for 45000 but almost sounds right for 30000/60000 service. Make sure there was no misunderstanding. 30000/60000 service includes lots of replacements in addition to engine oil/filter.
Dealers have developed an extreme conditions maintenance plan. What would normally be done on 30/60 is done on 15/45, for the exception of replacing spark plugs. FWIW, I paid $229 for the 15k on my 03 OBW. Rob M.
Seems very high to me. I pay about $20 for an oil change and $40 for rotate and balance. The other inspections are quick and easy (even more so if they are removing the wheels/tires already.
I'm pretty sure my Foresters' (03XS and 04XT) have the diffy stick on the passenger side and the ATF stick on the drivers. Think its the same on the wife's 03 OBW. Were they different on the 2.0L's vs the 2.5L's?
I am sorry to say that I don't have an answer, but I have the exact same vehicle and problem. I will contact you if I find a solution, and would appreciate if you would do the same...
I have a 1995 T-100 4X4 pickup, and it has consistently had a pulsing in the front end. As you accelerate it gets faster, and eventually goes away completely. It seems worse when the vehicle is cold, and it goes away when you pull it into 4 wheel drive. I have had several people look and have found no root cause. I have the automatic locking hubs, which I feel is part of the problem. Has anyone seen this? Any input you might have would be much appreciated.
Dave: Not because we may already have too many Dave's (can you ever have enough?), but more because this is a Subaru forum rather than Toyota, you might get better results there rather than here.
Did I ever tell you that Mrs. McCave Had twenty-three sons, and she named them all Dave? Well, she did. And that wasn't a smart thing to do. You see, when she wants one, and calls out "Yoo-Hoo! Come into the house, Dave!" she doesn't get one. All twenty-three Daves of hers come on the run!
This makes things quite difficult at the McCaves' As you can imagine, with so many Daves. And often she wishes that, when they were born, She had named one of them Bodkin Van Horn. And one of them Hoos-Foos. And one of them Snimm. And one of them Hot-Shot. And one Sunny Jim. And one of them Shadrack. And one of them Blinkey. And one of them Stuffy. And one of them Stinkey. Another one Putt-Putt. Another one Moon Face. Another one Marvin O'Gravel Balloon Face. And one of them Ziggy. And one Soggy Muff. One Buffalo Bill. And one Biffalo Buff. And one of them Sneepy. And one Weepy Weed. And one Paris Garters. And one Harris Tweed. And one of them Sir Michael Carmichael Zutt. And one of them Oliver Boliver Butt. And one of them Zanzibar Buck-Buck McFate . . . . But she didn't do it. And now it's too late.
This is posted in our office. We have ... Many Daves
I have a 1998 Subaru Outback. Frequently, but not all the time, when I step on the brakes I get a "crunching" noise. The sound makes me think the brakes aren't going to work but the brakes work fine. We have had three mechanics check it out and all say there is no problem with the brakes. None of the mechanics have heard the noise but many people who ride with me have heard the noise. Has anyone else ever run into this problem? Any ideas what it could be? Thanks.
How appropriate. I have to attend any kind of Subaru meet where there wasn't at least one Dave, usually 2 or 3.
Crunching doesn't sound good. I would suspect some debris got stuck between the pads and the rotors. Do the rotors look scored? Prolly not, given they've been looked at.
Strange. If the noise is repeatable you'd think they'd find it. Could it just be surface rust being scraped off first thing each morning?
In reference to your concern about the side impact problem... Go to post # 3497, go to the maintenance guide and check your car there. There was a recall issued for side impact bags on some early '05 models of the outback. I called the Subaru service number listed and checked mine, I'm OK. Hopefully yours will be alright also. Be sure to have your VIN# handy when you call.
Refer msg #3192. In msg 3192, I reported that they were replacing my rear diffy under warrantee at 43000 miles and almost 5years. Well, Monday, it failed again!! I was turning around in my driveway, backing up when I felt a 'boom' like something broke. After that, the drivetrain made a loud noise. Took it to my dealer, they said I 'blew' out another diffy. They found that a crossmember supporting the diffy was bent where it meets the body. I do not know what caused this, but it points out a serious defect. If this rear end supports are so sensitive to being out of alignment, what happens when the car gets older and rust sets in? This all-wheel drive system is very delicate. How can they advertise this as an 'offroad' vehicle? Man if you hit a stump or a rock, it ruins the drive train? This will certainly be my last 'all-wheel' drive vehicle. I need a vehicle that I can have confidence in and that I can work on myself without disturbing the delicate balance of the drivetrain. I'm thinking about a Ford or Chevy pickup. What do you think?
Uh, if you hit something hard enough to throw the drivetrain out of alignment, I would expect a fairly quick component failure. So here's the question - DID you hit a stump or rock off roading? If so I'm not sure I'd blame the car....something bent the cross member. Pot hole from Hades?
On the other hand if it was already out of alignment when the first diffy blew, the dealer should have caught it. With all that if its being covered under warranty, be grateful you've got a more than reasonable dealer. If I took my Forester in with a bent frame component, I'd be severely out of luck.
Regarding a pickup, hit a big enough rock, stump, or Boston big-dig pothole and whatever you're driving will be toast eventually... Also, about the time rust alters the drivetrain geometry, there's other problems afoot.
Hi all - I bought a new '04 Outback wagon in May (base model w/AT). I've been quite happy with it, except for one very annoying and potentially serious problem. When I picked the car up, I noticed a tendency to pull to the right. In addition, the steering wheel itself was way off center.
I took the car in a week later to have it checked. The dealer aligned it - or so they said. The steering wheel was properly centered, but the pull was still present.
Two weeks ago, I took it back for the first oil change, and indicated that the problem was still present. Again, the alignment was done - the service rep. wasn't sure why the issue was not corrected the first time.
In any event, steering is better now (it was quite a chore before), but the car still has a tendency to "drift" or "wander" to the right. I've also noticed a slight vibration around 65-70mph and some sloppiness in the wheel.
I have a number of theories: 1. one of the front tires (probably the right) is out of balance; 2. the alignement is still off; 3. one of the tires is bad; 4. ???
Road crown does affect how quickly the car tracks to the right, but it appears to be more than that.
Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I have a friend who has an 04 OB (identical to mine down to the color, but two months older), and he has no such problem.
You are right that crown will affect straight line tracking, but the car should drift to the left when on the left side fo a crown and to the right from the right side of the crown. If your car drifts right from the left side of the crown then there is definitely a problem.
I have had some of the lousiest alignments from dealers, and some of the best from Firestone. I don't normally recommend Fireston for other than tires, but they got my car tracking perfectly.
BTW, if the car is misaligned for more than a couple thousand miles, you can wear your tires unevenly and then it will be difficult to correct the problem.
My plan is to sell my beautiful 96 LC and get something cheap - I'm still paying for the cruiser - useful, and reliable. I need a vehicle that I can use for all the fun stuff I like to do - surf, ski, bike, etc - and fit my big dog too. I live in NYC and only really drive my car on the weekends if that.
I was looking at 90 - 95 4runners/pathfinders, but then I had a thought - Outback.
I have done some reading on 97 outback's (what I am looking at) and have some concerns. Many of the consumer reviews posted here on Edmunds do not sound good; alternator problems, gaskets, brakes,etc.
Buying a car that I will end up sinking money into is exactly opposite to my needs.
I love my LC, but the cost of the car and the insurance / vs. my needs is just too much. That said, it is in great condition and I can see my grand children driving it someday - reliable.
So, are these cars reliable? I and looking at a 97 outback with around 150k mls. It sounds really good, but I am concerned. I have far less apprehension looking at 90-95 4runners/pf because there is so much good buzz about them. Plus, I have owned 3 toys and they were great.
I got a used '97 Outback Ltd back in April, 2003. I had considered another '97 5 speed that had 150,000 miles on it, and it seemed to drive great, but the chances of stuff going wrong on a car with that many miles on it is pretty high I think. I decided to pay a bit more and hopefully spend less time fixing stuff.
I knew someone with a '97 so I dropped some hints and they decided to upgrade to an '04 since they knew they had a buyer for the used one. I got into the OB with 34,000 miles on the clock. If you chat up older folks in the grocery parking lot, you may luck into just such a deal too.
Hello to all. I changed the oil for the first time on my 03 Legacy 2.5 and have a question. The manual says that there is a plastic cover that must be removed before you can gain access to the filter and drain plug. On my car there is no such cover. Is this a misprint in the manual or am I actually missing this piece?
Wild, Sam, but yours is the first and second case of rear diffy failure that I've seen. I think oldjayhawk had some noise, but not an outright failure like yours.
If it's a limited-slip, I'd be inspecting the tires closely. They allow for a little tolerance (1/4" in circumference of the tire) but beyond that you might have binding of the kind that would cause drivetrain issues.
If you hit something, well, Subaru does sell a diffy protector.
You can get part-time 4WD, that would lock the axles together, but when engaged that actually leaves even less tolerance for rotational differences front to rear.
Even then, your issue was not the center diff, it was the rear diff. So you might prefer a 4WD truck with two open differentials, vs. a locking differential. But you'll sacrifice some amount of grip no matter what you buy.
So, 20 stars from NHTSA. Or we should say quarduple 5 stars.
Bob - the Marginal result was from IIHS, not NHTSA. And that was on a Legacy sedan.
nic519: '97 was the year they bumped HP up to 165 and it runs on regular fuel vs. premium for the '96. So 1997 is a sweet spot.
Any car with that kind of mileage will depend on luck and the previous care it was given.
Brake pads are cheap, but ask for a service history. I haven't seen many alternator issues. Gaskets were a common problem but by 150k miles they either would have failed already or have been replaced.
On my '01, there is a black plastic cover that spans under the entire engine compartment. Within that is a smaller 'door' or 'flap' that hides the filter.
Thanks for the line on Firestone. I had wanted to stay away from one of the "chains," but they may have a better handle on alignments and such than the dealers do.
While I hate the thought of spending $80-90 for alignment and balancing, I'd rather be safe than sorry.
RE: "yours is the first and second case of rear diffy failure that I've seen. I think oldjayhawk had some noise, but not an outright failure like yours. If it's a limited-slip, I'd be inspecting the tires closely. They allow for a little tolerance (1/4" in circumference of the tire) but beyond that you might have binding of the kind that would cause drivetrain issues.[...] Even then, your issue was not the center diff, it was the rear diff. So you might prefer a 4WD truck with two open differentials, vs. a locking differential. But you'll sacrifice some amount of grip no matter what you buy."
On various forum I have heard of people blowing rear diff from time to time. I one case, the diff overheated and cought on fire on hwy driving. In that case, the owner used uneven tires which blew and locked the center diff and then put extra stress on rear diff.
Comments
You can also use it as a turkey baster :>)
Out of curiosity, I took some tread depth measurements to see how uniformly they were wearing. Numbers are x/32". This is a 5 rib design, and only the 4 inside channels are full depth (the rest of the blocks close up at varying depths, greatly changing the tread design). I took the measurements at 3 points across the tread:
mmmmm mmmmm mmmmm mmmmm mmmmm
------------X1-----------X2------------------------- X3
outside edge ======> inside edge
Inside Center Outside
FL ------ 8 ------ 9 ------ 8+
RL ------ 9 ------ 9 ------ 9
FR ------ 8 ------ 9 ------ 8
RR ------ 8 ------ 9 ------ 8
Conclusions: Overall wear is on target, and quite even all around. Original depth was 10 or 11 / 32, IIRC on the RE92's. With legal limit = 2/32", projected range would exceed 50k miles if I adjust the tire pressure upwards slightly to compensate for the lower center wear. Then again, with how badly they handle, why would I want to?
Steve
-juice
Also, nobody on this board seems to have ventured and hooked up an IPod straight into the factory stereo. Too bad, I would like to figure it out.
Cheers!
Remember, this forum is rated "PG".
On the 05 Legacy/Outback, we're dead in the water since there is no input jack on the radio at all. Even the antenna jack is non-standard, so using an inline FM modulator is going to be difficult.
Craig
Cheers!
Mazda and Scion are well ahead of Subaru in the stereo game.
-juice
http://www.subaru.co.nz/New_Vehicles/Legacy/GT/interior.php
http://www.subaru.co.jp/legacy/wrlimited/utility/09/index.html
If somebody makes an antenna adapter for SUbaru's non-standard antenna plug, we can at least wire in an FM modulator but that's not very good sound quality. Regardless, that's not even an option yet!
It will be difficult/expensive to install one of the foreign stereo options since the climate control is integrated into the face plate. Good luck finding a plate with the US-compatible climate controls!!
Craig
Ford was roundly (and rightly) criticized for doing that.
It was a while before the aftermarket faceplates were available and then they were (are?) very expensive. That was one of the reasons I ordered my Sables with the Mach audio and CD built in - not the greatest audio, but way too expensive to upgrade the base system.
Larry
Remember, this forum is rated "PG".
Nope, we updated that last year... down to "G"
kcram
Host
Smart Shopper and Wagons Message Boards
-mike
Hope this is the right forum. I had a question about a quote I received from a Subaru dealership for my 45,000 mi service appointment. (I have a 2001 Outback wagon.)
From the Subaru site, it looks like this includes:
Replace - oil and oil filter
Inspect - Disc brake pads and discs/Front and rear axle boots and axle shaft
joint portions, Clutch system, Steering and suspension system
Perform - Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service
brake system, Rotate and inspect tires
The dealership quoted me $345 and told me it would take 2-2.5 hours. I told a friend of mine, and he seemed to think this was very high for only a series of inspections and an oil change.
So, can someone here help me out? Is this quote in the right ballpark? Or am I being taken for a ride?
Any help you can offer would be wonderful. Thanks.
-juice
I -very much- like the look of the integrated console, but, if you are going to do it that way, you -have- to offer the buyer some flexibility in terms of an optional system, and you have to anticipate technological developments like inputs for personal music players.
My 00 AT has the opposite arrangement...
Make sure there was no misunderstanding.
30000/60000 service includes lots of replacements in addition to engine oil/filter.
There's a 45,000 mile service for Outbacks?
Oh-oh :-)
Steve, Host
Craig
Larry
I've already had the 30,000 mile service completed, so I'll clarify this with the dealer to make sure there isn't a mix up.
Using the Edmunds maintenance guide page, it appears it should be ~$100 for the service in this area.
Thanks again.
Dave
Dave
Too Many Daves... wasn't that a Dr. Suess title?
Cheers!
Paul
Had twenty-three sons, and she named them all Dave?
Well, she did. And that wasn't a smart thing to do.
You see, when she wants one, and calls out "Yoo-Hoo!
Come into the house, Dave!" she doesn't get one.
All twenty-three Daves of hers come on the run!
This makes things quite difficult at the McCaves'
As you can imagine, with so many Daves.
And often she wishes that, when they were born,
She had named one of them Bodkin Van Horn.
And one of them Hoos-Foos. And one of them Snimm.
And one of them Hot-Shot. And one Sunny Jim.
And one of them Shadrack. And one of them Blinkey.
And one of them Stuffy. And one of them Stinkey.
Another one Putt-Putt. Another one Moon Face.
Another one Marvin O'Gravel Balloon Face.
And one of them Ziggy. And one Soggy Muff.
One Buffalo Bill. And one Biffalo Buff.
And one of them Sneepy. And one Weepy Weed.
And one Paris Garters. And one Harris Tweed.
And one of them Sir Michael Carmichael Zutt.
And one of them Oliver Boliver Butt.
And one of them Zanzibar Buck-Buck McFate . . . .
But she didn't do it. And now it's too late.
This is posted in our office. We have ... Many Daves
Crunching doesn't sound good. I would suspect some debris got stuck between the pads and the rotors. Do the rotors look scored? Prolly not, given they've been looked at.
Strange. If the noise is repeatable you'd think they'd find it. Could it just be surface rust being scraped off first thing each morning?
-juice
-mike
-juice
Have a great day!
Ken
In msg 3192, I reported that they were replacing my rear diffy under warrantee at 43000 miles and almost 5years.
Well, Monday, it failed again!!
I was turning around in my driveway, backing up when I felt a 'boom' like something broke. After that, the drivetrain made a loud noise.
Took it to my dealer, they said I 'blew' out another diffy. They found that a crossmember supporting the diffy was bent where it meets the body. I do not know what caused this, but it points out a serious defect. If this rear end supports are so sensitive to being out of alignment, what happens when the car gets older and rust sets in? This all-wheel drive system is very delicate. How can they advertise this as an 'offroad' vehicle? Man if you hit a stump or a rock, it ruins the drive train?
This will certainly be my last 'all-wheel' drive vehicle. I need a vehicle that I can have confidence in and that I can work on myself without disturbing the delicate balance of the drivetrain. I'm thinking about a Ford or Chevy pickup. What do you think?
Sam.
On the other hand if it was already out of alignment when the first diffy blew, the dealer should have caught it. With all that if its being covered under warranty, be grateful you've got a more than reasonable dealer. If I took my Forester in with a bent frame component, I'd be severely out of luck.
Regarding a pickup, hit a big enough rock, stump, or Boston big-dig pothole and whatever you're driving will be toast eventually... Also, about the time rust alters the drivetrain geometry, there's other problems afoot.
Larry
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/NCAP/Cars/2005SUVs.html
5 star side impact rating for Outback.
Bob
I bought a new '04 Outback wagon in May (base model w/AT). I've been quite happy with it, except for one very annoying and potentially serious problem. When I picked the car up, I noticed a tendency to pull to the right. In addition, the steering wheel itself was way off center.
I took the car in a week later to have it checked. The dealer aligned it - or so they said. The steering wheel was properly centered, but the pull was still present.
Two weeks ago, I took it back for the first oil change, and indicated that the problem was still present. Again, the alignment was done - the service rep. wasn't sure why the issue was not corrected the first time.
In any event, steering is better now (it was quite a chore before), but the car still has a tendency to "drift" or "wander" to the right. I've also noticed a slight vibration around 65-70mph and some sloppiness in the wheel.
I have a number of theories:
1. one of the front tires (probably the right) is out of balance;
2. the alignement is still off;
3. one of the tires is bad;
4. ???
Road crown does affect how quickly the car tracks to the right, but it appears to be more than that.
Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I have a friend who has an 04 OB (identical to mine down to the color, but two months older), and he has no such problem.
I have had some of the lousiest alignments from dealers, and some of the best from Firestone. I don't normally recommend Fireston for other than tires, but they got my car tracking perfectly.
BTW, if the car is misaligned for more than a couple thousand miles, you can wear your tires unevenly and then it will be difficult to correct the problem.
Craig
I was looking at 90 - 95 4runners/pathfinders, but then I had a thought - Outback.
I have done some reading on 97 outback's (what I am looking at) and have some concerns. Many of the consumer reviews posted here on Edmunds do not sound good; alternator problems, gaskets, brakes,etc.
Buying a car that I will end up sinking money into is exactly opposite to my needs.
I love my LC, but the cost of the car and the insurance / vs. my needs is just too much. That said, it is in great condition and I can see my grand children driving it someday - reliable.
So, are these cars reliable? I and looking at a 97
outback with around 150k mls. It sounds really good, but I am concerned. I have far less apprehension looking at 90-95 4runners/pf because there is so much good buzz about them. Plus, I have owned 3 toys and they were great.
Just another avenue to explore.
Cheers
Paul
I knew someone with a '97 so I dropped some hints and they decided to upgrade to an '04 since they knew they had a buyer for the used one. I got into the OB with 34,000 miles on the clock. If you chat up older folks in the grocery parking lot, you may luck into just such a deal too.
Steve, Host
I changed the oil for the first time on my 03 Legacy 2.5 and have a question. The manual says that there is a plastic cover that must be removed before you can gain access to the filter and drain plug. On my car there is no such cover. Is this a misprint in the manual or am I actually missing this piece?
If it's a limited-slip, I'd be inspecting the tires closely. They allow for a little tolerance (1/4" in circumference of the tire) but beyond that you might have binding of the kind that would cause drivetrain issues.
If you hit something, well, Subaru does sell a diffy protector.
You can get part-time 4WD, that would lock the axles together, but when engaged that actually leaves even less tolerance for rotational differences front to rear.
Even then, your issue was not the center diff, it was the rear diff. So you might prefer a 4WD truck with two open differentials, vs. a locking differential. But you'll sacrifice some amount of grip no matter what you buy.
So, 20 stars from NHTSA. Or we should say quarduple 5 stars.
Bob - the Marginal result was from IIHS, not NHTSA. And that was on a Legacy sedan.
nic519: '97 was the year they bumped HP up to 165 and it runs on regular fuel vs. premium for the '96. So 1997 is a sweet spot.
Any car with that kind of mileage will depend on luck and the previous care it was given.
Brake pads are cheap, but ask for a service history. I haven't seen many alternator issues. Gaskets were a common problem but by 150k miles they either would have failed already or have been replaced.
-juice
Keith
While I hate the thought of spending $80-90 for alignment and balancing, I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Don't ask me why.
"yours is the first and second case of rear diffy failure that I've seen. I think oldjayhawk had some noise, but not an outright failure like yours.
If it's a limited-slip, I'd be inspecting the tires closely. They allow for a little tolerance (1/4" in circumference of the tire) but beyond that you might have binding of the kind that would cause drivetrain issues.[...]
Even then, your issue was not the center diff, it was the rear diff. So you might prefer a 4WD truck with two open differentials, vs. a locking differential. But you'll sacrifice some amount of grip no matter what you buy."
On various forum I have heard of people blowing rear diff from time to time.
I one case, the diff overheated and cought on fire on hwy driving. In that case, the owner used uneven tires which blew and locked the center diff and then put extra stress on rear diff.