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I'll reiterate that the higher octane is only masking the real problem (dirty heads) but it's still cheaper than the alternative (taking the car into the shop for an expensive head cleaning). For your Subaru, it's worth a shot just to see if it cures your condition...if it does work, then you can decide if it's worth it to you to pay a shop to clean the gunk out or whether you'd rather just keep on putting in premium.
B
Has anyone gotten this fixed, or better yer, has anyone actually fixed this themselves? Thanks, folks.
Eric
I think it's getting the engine up to sustained full operating temperature that makes it run better. My old Dodge 360 alway ran best after about an hour of driving. A modern car should get hot quickly, but it won't if the thermostat is a bit off or there's some other problem.
-jaj
Krzys
Based on some science, actually. A strong fuel additive and a good blast for 200-300 miles will sometimes cure issues related to carbonization of valves or piston tops.
I was quite surprised that my Frontier's engine was dirty enough to require premium with only 50k miles, but I was even more surprised that simply switching octane levels would quiet the thing down so quickly.
Brian
Thank you
Any input would be appreciated.
If you are experiencing constant pinging you may consider changing your knock sensor. When engine knock is detected, the ECM retards timing (the spark happens a little later during the cycle) a bit to stop it.
I experienced ocassional knock in my '00 OBW at throttle tip-in from idle, but it'd only do it once. This is not a bad thing, as the ECM takes care of it. I did notice that I do have slightly improved milage and no knock when I use 88 octane fuel.
I have an automatic transmission 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon,in good shape, under 50,000 miles. Recently it has been making an odd humming sound when I shut the engine off. This is a low pitched sound, steady (not vibrating or oscillating), and it can last up to 45 seconds or so with the car shut off and key taken out, until it eventually fades off to silence. I've never heard anything like this before it started a week or so ago, and I haven't taken it for service or anything--I figured I'd start here. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Ryan
P0171 : Fuel trim malfunction (A/F too lean) :
There is no P0174 code in the manual or the H6 supplement.
If this is the case, it is normal and many cars do this.
Eric
I hear that the problem is the switch mechanism in the driver's door and the fix is to access it and adjust it (it wears with time/use). So far, if I really want to open all the doors from the driver, I just repeat the lock/unlock motion repeatedly until it works. That is the stubborn man's solution. Darn old cars, anyway.
I know this topic has probably been beaten like a dead horse, but I have a few questions that I have not been able to find answers to before I buy my 1st Subaru:
1. I was all set to buy an 03 Outback assuming that by 03 SOA must have addressed the HG issue in their new cars. But I have heard some owners of 03's have experienced HG problems. At what year is it safe to buy a 2.5L engine Subaru and not have to worry about the HG issue: 03, 04, and 05?
2. What did SOA do to eliminate the HG issue: newly designed HG? , new HG manufacturer? , new HG sealant?, new install procedure? , etc. Basically what was the original problem and how was it redesigned so it will not happen any more?
3. If your Subaru is one in the HG campaign, you are advised to put in a 'special conditioner'.
What is that conditioner?
What's in it?
How does it stop or prevent the leaking?
If the conditioner can plug or clog small leaking passages, why won't it clog or reduce the flow through small passages in the radiator or engine?
4. If an engine is included in the HG campaign and SOA authorizes the HG to be replaced, when the new HG is put in are you still required to use the special additive?
5. I found a 02 outback for sale, it has a HG that leaks externally. I called SOA, they said that cars VIN is not part of the campaign and is not covered. How is that? Did this happen to many owners with the HG issue? Is this a way for SOA to say they are doing something for their customers, but in most cases they are not?
6. What percentage of the 2.5L phase II engines had the HG problem?
Do some years have a worst percentage than others? If yes, which?
7. Does anyone know the VIN ranges that are included in the SOA HG campaign?
2. The HG material was revised more than once, I believe.
3. Conditioner = Stop Leak. basically.
4. Not sure, but I think so. You have a sticker that says whenever you flush the cooling system to use the conditioner again.
5. Some 02s were included, others were not. Our '02 Legacy L was not included, but it's been just fine. We did not add the conditioner.
6. Hard to say. It was common enough that I would be concerned about the 99-02 used models. At least those are covered. Just make sure they did have the conditioner added (so I'd avoid that 02 just in case).
7. No, but call 800-SUBARU3 with any particular VIN to find out.
-juice
Most of your questions have been correctly answered in existing threads.
It's important because the HG warranty was extended if you add the stop leak product. I forget the brand, but it is a commercial product.
So if you have a 2003 or newer, you supposidly have the conditioner. (I hope this stuff does not affect the radiator) Anyone out there with an '03 or newer who can look at their owners manual(or maybe a sticker somewhere) and tell me if the conditioner is in fact required on coolant changes.
And because I'm :mad: about it I'll reiterate that Subaru did not see the need to extend the warranty on HG failures for its Canadian customers. Why bother, eh?
I wanted to check fuses, but where are they? I can't find a mention of window fuses in the manual or on either of the two fuse panels. Anyone know?
I just finished replacing the power widow regulator assembly on my 02 Caravan. The job took me 4 hours. But the Subaru regulator assembly is simpler. I never had to work on the power windows on any of my Subarus. Yours is the first power window malfunction I have heard of.
I have seen estimates of over $500 for the job. The part will probably run $100. If your time is worth less that $200 an hour, I would recommend you order a motor and do the replacement yourself.
Jim W
Where did you purchase the service manual? Eventually I would like to get one. Thanks again.
But having done the diagnostic and much of the disassembly work It shouldn't be too much for labour. I found the motor online at a Subaru dealer for US$165 and at a non-Subaru parts supply place for $73 exchange. Which probably means its about CAN$300 at my local Subaru dealer.
Excellent resale value.
I am very happy to be rid of the vehicle.
Needless to say, I won't be making anymore entries into
this forum.
So anyone have any advice on it? Is it really something that I should bring in?
1. remove intake duct and intake chamber
2. remove battery
3. disconnect spark plug cord
4. remove spark plug
5. recommended plug NGK PFR5B-11, tighten to 15 ft-lb
This doesn't sound too bad assuming that you have a socket set with various length extensions and a u-joint.