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Comments
There are no adjustments for disc brakes per-say.
On most subarus and we do a lot of work on subie brakes, 30-40k is the life of the fronts and 50-60k on the rears. Rotors usually last 80k so roughly every other pad replacement the front rotors should be replaced.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
As you stated.... very odd.
The previous post mentioned parking brake, but on ours it's a rather interesting drum brake type design which resides inside of the rotor, so in our case I think a problem with the parking brake would be unlikely to affect the wear of the disc brake components.
I'll add that in my opinion brakes are by far the weakest part of our Outback. I have two friends who have the same generation Outback, and they have struggled with numerous brake pad/rotor issues over the years as we have. Could be all the crud we drive through in the long NE winters that is contributing, but other cars I've owned didn't need nearly as much attention given to the brakes. Despite this, we all love our Outbacks - especially in the snow!
Good luck.
That would be amazing, considering that the parking brakes on subarus for the last 15 or so years do not use the regular brake pads for the parking brake. They do a drum-in-disc setup where they have their own pads that press into the inside of the rear brake rotor hats.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
im starting to get irratated, i asked a few people, one said it might have 2 do with the security system and i have to reset it, one said something w the starter and the guy at the dealership in town said ummm idk just get it towed in and we will look at it
im a girl lol i need help :confuse:
If you still get a click, you might have a bad starter. I don't think this has anything to do with the security system. Don't go there.
Visiting Host
A few smacks upside the starter may help from the first few times.
Jim
Drum brakes.
Though his 03 Legacy would have discs, so your point is valid in the OP's case.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
When I was having problems with mine (also a '96 Outback), it never once recorded a code that indicated a possible problem with the MAS.
Nah, didn't find anything....very annoying.
BUT STILL, all kidding aside, all tailgates should have a little knob or at least an access hole so that you can manually release the lock.
However, it can be a very awkward maneuver to perform. I had to do it several times with my '96 Outback, as the gas struts were shot on the gate and I held it open with a prop pole. More than once, I locked myself in while adjusting a load in there (with rear seats folded down) by bumping the pole from the inside. A few times, I managed to not lock myself in by having a strategically placed body part to keep the gate from closing. Personally, I preferred being locked in over that.
Thanks for your advise on this. The way the car was acting poorly only during the warm up phase I also thought it had a Gas / Fuel ratio problem but all the code readout would say was that the # 4 cylinder was misfiring. I bought a used MAS sensor , cleaned it up and the car is running fine during the warm up phase. So I am crossing my fingers and hoping that was the source of the problem.
Thanks again,
Tim
Here are the current specs:
2001 Outback Limited (4EAT), 125,000 miles
Have replaced (within the last 2 years): Water pump, timing belt, fuel pump, head gaskets and ALL work has been done by Subaru.
The smell happens in winter (only) and my only inkling would be something to do with the sand/salt on our NH roads. We have received a LOT of snow this year and enough cold weather too.
I am currently unemployed so not really willing to take it to Subaru again to have them tell me (and charge me for) nothing.
Anyone had this issue and know how to address it? Where can I access the assembly to diagnose it? I'm guessing there is some splined fit between the wiper arm and the motor assembly, and that my arm has either (a) become loose from the fitting (i.e., popped up), or (b) the "gears" that fit the 2 together are stripped.
What's the procedure for disassembling all of this so I can see what's up?
Thanks in advance for any help.
2001 OB wagon.
--Jay
Thanks for any help.
As I suspected, the problem is that the wiper assembly/arm has come loose (worked its way up) from the base. To fix it: pop the plastic cover off, loosen the nut, pull the arm off and clean around the base (in my case leaves and things were there), refit the arm, tighten the nut, and pop the cover back on. My grooves on the arm were a bit worn but not enough to make the assembly slip when the nut was tight.
Subaru paid for half of his repair but the first rep I called gave me a real hard time and then offered me $500 dollars in goodwill. I took my car to Colonial Subaru in Danbury Ct and Art the service manager got Subaru to cover the entire headgasket
repair. I ended paying for the waterpump, timing belt, timing tension adjuster, V - Belt and the very late 90k service. The total price was $980 for everything. I took my car to Colonial because of advice I received from this forum (60k service) and it really paid off. If you are in the Hudson Valley NY area forget about Smith Cairns in Brewster and stay clear of Curry in Yorktown as well. Colonial Danubury is the most professional of all that I have been to. I would like to thank SOA for going above and beyond and I also want to again thank Art Azzarito of Colonial Subaru Danbury.
I took it in to a local trusted mechanic to have the clutch replaced last week. After completing the job the car began to overheat on the test drive. He thought that air may have gotten into the system and tried everything he new to fix the problem but nothing worked. I had the car towed to Van Bortel yesterday. They tested the engine and found no leaks from the engine or tail pipe. They said that the thermostat was not holding and wanted to try replacing the thermostat and flushing the radiator which would cost $322. They called back to inform me that the radiator was clogged but the thermostat was changed and the car is still overheating. The engine will need to be taken apart and it is either at best case a head gasket problem which will be $1,500 or a major engine problem in which case the engine may need to be replaced for the tune of $4,000-$4,500.
Any advice??
JJC
Visiting Host
2. Remove access hole cover.
3. Disconnect fuel pump electrical connector.
4. Start engine.
5. Crank engine an additional 5 seconds after it stalls.
6. Turn ignition OFF.
7. Drain fuel from tank into a suitable container.
8. Remove clamp and disconnect fuel filler hose from fuel filler pipe.
9.Remove clamp and disconnect air vent hose from fuel filler pipe.
10. Loosen clips and disconnect air breather hoses from pipe.
11. Loosen clamps and disconnect fuel delivery, return and evaporation hoses.
12. While supporting tank, remove band retaining bolts and remove tank
.
13. Reverse procedure to install.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor