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1}How do I change my platinum plugs; is it just the same as with the older cars, just pull off the wires and unscrew the plugs? Also what size plugs are they?
And I'm not worried about using new platinum plugs; I got 99k now on my first set, so I figure by the time the second set wear out the car will prolly be worn out also... ">})
2} How do I get at a rear brake light? And is there something I have to be careful about when doing it?
I prolly could figure these things out for myself by just taking a chance and doing them, but I figure it never hurts to ask ahead of time in case there are any special things I need to do to avoid any unforeseen problems...
Thanks all,
drummer
The service manual lists the following plugs for the ECHO:
Denso: SK16R11
NGK: IFR5A11
Those appear to be regular plugs. The service manaul I have doesnt specify platinum plugs. That tell you anything?
You have to remove the black plastic valve cover shield with "VTTi" on it. Four 10mm acorn nuts. Each sparkplug connector is held in place with a 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt and the connector. You need a 5/8 inch sparkplug socket a six inch expension and a 3/8 inch drive ratchet. The socket should have a rubber insert to hold the plug while you lower it into place. I spray the rubber insert with WD40. If you dont it might grip the sprakplug so tightly that the socket pulls out of the etension when you try to remove it.
As for your Echo, I might be suspicious - my guess would be that possibly some less-than-totally-ethical (or ignorant) mechanic convinced the last owner that the platinums needed replacement at 30K, and stuck regular plugs in there instead. But certainly it is also possible that Toyota went from specifying platinums to specifying regulars in later years of the Echo's run. I just can't imagine the reason why they would. And of course, since you are not in a California-emissions state, it's possible that CA cars had 60K-mile plugs, and 49-state cars had 30K-mile plugs. The Toyota website shows 30K-mile intervals for the plugs for both the 2002 (mine) and 2004 (yours) model years.
And BTW there's no mention in my maintenance schedule of anything being a 100K interval as you pointed out with the Camry. I am aware though that many Toyota models today (NOT including the older Echo, but including my '07 Matrix) use iridium plugs which are scheduled for replacement at 105K-mile intervals. At the rate I drive, my 105K plugs will be getting replaced before your 30K plugs, so I won't worry too much about being able to get them out. ;-)
BTW, why would they be corroded in there, unless you have a fluid leak getting into the threads? Otherwise, there should be no moisture and hence no corrosion on the plug threads?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The maintenance schedule that came with the Camry specified the 100k interval for the plugs. Since I remove them periodically to clean the threads I can check up on them and change them if they need it before the 100k mile interval .
The work you describe is well within my limited mechanical abilities, and now that I'm not working "in the dark" I'll be agle to do it without worrying! ">})
I have no idea why Toyota appears to have different plugs and different replacement schedules for them on their Echos. I do know that mine are platinums and my manual schedules their replacement at 90K miles. When I bought the car the service manager even warned me against letting an inexperienced mechanic change them at 30K..!
I just picked up a 2001 Echo, 2dr, AT, 40k. It is clean & runs very nice. I have records from the dealer showing regular maint. The only thing I don't see is a change of plugs listed on the 30k maint.
One of the reasons I picked this car is the is the great owner reviews all over the net. I have three college students so I have a fleet of 5 cars & this will help with fuel costs.
I am planning on a K & N air filter like my other cars. Any recomendations???
I'm all ears?
Thanks,
G
Sorry I CANNOT recommend the KN filter for your ECHO. The standard filter is EXCELLENT you could not do better. The standard filters 99% of the dirt. The KN filters 95%. That means it passes 4 times the dirt of the stock! But wait theres more! The oil in the KN filter is upstream of the mass air sensor. Oil gets on the wires and your car runs like crap. Yes you can clean the wires but they are fragile. Break them and spend $200 for a new sensor. KN air filter NOT a good idea.
Good luck with your ECHO it sounds like you got a nice car!
I love the fact that I won't have to deal with a timing belt. This car loooks a little funny, but it seems like a bullet proof little money saver. As I mentioned I have three college students and my gas/car expensives need saving: )
I got lucky to find a slighty used one in TOP shape. I drove it home about 50 miles and it purred like a new car.
I'll pull the plugs when it warms up & check the air filter. I can't wait to check the mileage!!! I really wanted a stick, but this AT model was to good to pass on.
I live on dirt roads in bush Alaska and I have put about $1000 trying to get this fixed. After reading some of the comments I am going to try to clean the MAF but I do not know where it is. I assume it is near the air filter. Someone else suggested cleaning the two wires at, in or near the MAF. I really don't know too much, but it is clear the mechanic in this small town is just guessing at my expense.
Does anyone have any other suggestions? I changed the plugs, PCV valve and something I think was called the air throttle control valve that cost $200. Thanks in;advance for your comments. My car is 2001 echo.
I dont think this is the problem. Usually this results from using a K&N oiled air filter. Have you had the codes read? If you can tell us what they are we can look them up for you. Did the mechanic tell you what they were? AutoZone will read them for free.
One thing about the acceleration, when I am in park and it accelerates I can push the gas pedal and usually get the revolutions to come down for a bit sort of like a stuck choke. But it usually reacclerates all on its own.
I will let you know. Thanks again
Anyone have any of these symptoms and did you fix them? Thanks!
The grinding could be a dragging brake? Does it stop when you hit the brake while cruising? Otherwise, I would suspect the wheel bearings just like it seems you did.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Possibly its been removed and replaced. Looks like Ill have to take it to the shop and let them inspect it. That still leaves the grinding noise. I was thinking its the belts or the components they drive. Unfortunately I cant get the lower alternator bolt loose to remove the belt. Toyota wants $200 to do that!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
About 4 months ago... red engine light on, radiator leaking coolant, took to mechanic. He found radiator half full, but fill reservoir full. Radiator pressure tested, no problems. Mechanic could not find leak again after running, returned car.
Car ran fine for a few months; last 7 days, I've noticed small coolant leaks under car, I topped it off the radiator this morning, fill reservoir read full. Then today the car overheats again after 100 mi drive, spewing coolant from somewhere near bottom of radiator - definitely not the cap or the fill reservoir cap. But the fill reservoir level had actually gone up, so it's apparently not feeding the radiator. I've been carrying coolant in trunk, so I added about 1/2 gallon to radiator and drove home.
What's causing this? My brother seems to think the thermostat (coolant temp sensor?) contacts may be sticking and causing continuous coolant flow - - which (for some reason?) then causes a coolant relief valve to open and release the coolant. But I really don't understand that and have no clue. I'm not sure I want to return it to the mechanic and am willing to try minor repairs on my own - pretty sure I can handle a thermostat or something similar.
Thanks for any advice you can give.
Today after the overheating, I peeked around and saw nothing leaking from the top, just some substantial oozing of coolant from the very bottom, underneath the radiator, and onto the plastic cover below it.
Thanks again.
You can get a can of "stop leak" in a car parts store and add it to the raditor (follow dorections on the package). That might fix things for a while if the leaks are small...
I suppose there's no question of a leaking head gasket or cracked head from the previous overheat? Because that would explain half-full radiators and oozing coolant. A mechanic could perform a gas test on the coolant to determine this.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
No explanation for the fact that the leak stopped after the first leak incident.
I have a copy of the factory manual on my laptop for the first generation Echo, I think it goes to '03? I could try and send a copy if you need it, I can't recall who was looking for it. Ebay is a good source of course.
Has anybody changed their wiper control for one that has intermittant?
Yes Ive done the switch replacement its easy. Search ECHO forum here (dont think its under manitenance) Call this junkyard number they probably have the switch you need. 800 765 7100. Mine was from a 2006 Corolla (variable intermittent) Also RAV4 switches work.
It's an easy swap and any wiper stalk from any Toyota of the same general vintage should work - I took one out of a Matrix b/c that's all I could find at the junk yard.
Could it be a fuse? For only one rear turn signal not working? -I sorta doubt it but will try checking them anyway... Anyone have any clues or experience with this? Is it maybe something in the wiring?
Thanks,
Skip
Found the problem. -The main right side stoplight bulb was loose, and this prevented the signal light from working! Soon's I tightened up the stoplight socket, the directional started blinking again. They must be connected in series..!
Skip
The other possibility is that the spark plugs need replacement. For best performance in this motor; I would recommend one of the following three plugs:
The least expensive would be a Bosch Super Plus # 7957. This is a new part number, which is still not in stock at many stores; but it is now in the warehouses, so most stores which sell Bosch can special order it, and receive it within a day or so.
I would NOT recommend the old Bosch Super number for this application; but another Bosch plug that would be a good choice is the Bosch Platinum/IR Fusion # 4501.
The third recommended alternative would be an Autolite Iridium # XP3924.
The gaps on these particular plugs should not be adjusted. Fortunately, they are right for your engine as they come.