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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
You may be seeing a sludge build up just below the oil fill cap but that does not mean the inside of the engine looks the same way. On the 4.7 motor the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is placed just below the fill opening. The oil fill assembly is plastic and does not conduct heat well.
As the engine is run the PCV valve pulls warm, moist air from inside the engine to this plastic oil fill assembly. In winter the temperature of this plastic assembly is cold enough that the moisture in the crankcase air condenses inside the fill assembly. With a combination of oil vapors the moisture turns the oil in this area to a sludgy form.
I've never seen a 4.7 apart so I cannot provide absolute testimony, but I suspect that there is little to no accumulation of sludge in most other areas of the engine.
On mine I do get a small amount over the course of the winter, but it easily cleans up in the spring with a little carburetor cleaner and/or the wipe of a clean cloth. If you're getting more than that then I suspect the engine is not getting a good hot run in your daily commuting.
I run 0W-30 Mobil 1. Regardless of the miles on the oil, I change just before winter and as soon as possible in the spring for the reason of sludge. For me this usually means about 4500 miles of driving, maybe a little more. Mine does not exhibit any signs of sludging at the oil assembly during the warmer months.
So far, with the exception of the visual signs of sludging around the plastic oil fill assembly, I know of no report of more serious sludging or engine problems associated with sludging on the 4.7.
I hope this helps.
Best regards,
Dusty
I think you're more than covered either way. My VW has a recommended service interval of 10k miles when running synthetic. I've had the oil tested at 12k miles and it is still very clean, but I generally try to change it between 10k-12k miles. I could probably go 20k miles based on the testing, but would need a filter change prior to that. Plus I'm about 90% highway in that car. Most filters need replaced between 10k-15k miles regardless.
I've gone 9000 miles on my 4.7 Dakota with Mobil 1, which included a oil filter change at a approximately 4500 mile interval. The oil color change was less than moderate during that 9000 mile oil change. This was in summer months.
The problem with longer oil change intervals on synthetic is that regardless how many miles can be driven with the oil still in the relatively close protection range, it still gets dirty and contaminated with moisture, acids, and other elements that cannot be filtered by the engine oil filter. That's why I change more frequently based on climate and/or driving pattern.
To answer your other question about the 70-75 mph run once a week purging moisture out of the oil, it's hard to tell. It depends on how much moisture has been collected by the oil. High-speed operation for that duration will generate enough heat to evaporate the moisture, in my opinion, but it won't convert sludge back into oil. (That's assuming that the radiator thermostat is regulating the correct operating temperature, of course.)
I would suggest checking the engine oil over time to determine if there is any appreciable amount of sludge build up.
Best regards,
Dusty
In Mexico they only have 10-40 oil. no such thing as 5-30 or 10-30. Due to the hot weather, over 70f all the time, they use 20-50w to 40w. Ouch! Driving from Los Angeles 2 Cancun with a jet ski then on the way to Panama, will 10-40w be okay if i change it at 2k miles????? Mexican gas is bad too. So what other stuff should i change or do more frequently? Doing trans&filter at 20k intervals. Should i change the fuel filter or insert one in the engine befor the pump?
Cleaned my KN air filter at 50k with only 20k miles on it. Changing oil every 2k and oil filter at every other 2k.
been averaging almost 20mpg in usa freeway driving but in Mexico it´s been about 16-17mph highway and about 14mpg city-mixed. Mexican gas is bad. plus they sell you 9liters for the price of 10 at some gas stations. should i put a 2nd fuel filter between the tank and engine....
oh, steam cleaning the engine does not make the wire system go nuts. in Mexico, i had the engine steamed cleaned and the entire under side too for $12, includes degreaser, hand scrubbing and steam. Total polish and interior cleaning was $10 with camper shell. Wow, Mexico is cheap for services.
Costa Rica autos sell for 130% more than Panama, so that is where i will sell my dodge and jet ski, after reaching Panama city. Example is small nissan is $10,000 in Panama and in Costa Rica, same car is $23,500. That´s a big percent difference. LET´S SEE IF I CAN GET MY STICKER PRICE OF $27,800 IN COSTA RICA.
will 10-40 oil mess up my miles on this 4.7 motor or is it okay in 70 to 100 degree weather.....
Well I travel alot to mexico, and while I agree that gas is really of bad grade what i would recommend is what I do, buy the highest grade of gas possible, and while most will have water in it I recommend you buy some Chevron Techron gas treatments to add to the gas. Believe it or not this will help your engine run alot cleaner and help elimanite any gunk that the gas might have. I also recommend you take an extra case of engine oil, with the different climates you will be entering you will need the right grade. At least that is what I do when I take my truck on long trips and I know I wont be able to get my hand on the right oil. Peace of mind is what I call it, it might be a hassle in the beginning but it is well worth the pain. Other than that you shouldnt have that much of a problem, I take my F-250 which has a 5.4 triton engine and so far no problems. I just bought the Dodge recently and I love the horse power!! But any how I hope I helped
Chrysler does not recommend the use of 10W-40 motor oils in any of it's engines. This formula is the most chemically unstable motor oil on the market. Although probably okay when used in more consistently stable higher temperatures, I would highly recommend that it be changed within 4000 miles. I would recommend against it's use as an "all-weather" motor oil, especially in climates where the temperatures range into freezing or below part of the year.
For the 4.7 motor 5W-30 is recommended to 100 degrees F ambient. If prolonged use is anticipated at 100 F, 10W-30, 15W-40 would be far better choices. I'm not sure how many miles you plan on driving, but a good synthetic 5W-30 should be more than sufficient for 7500 miles or more under the temperature conditions you describe.
Best regards,
Dusty
2004 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab, CTD, 48RE auto, 3.73 gears. 13k so far. Only problem was the horn went off on a Saturday morning in the garage. The wire was pinched in the steering column support. Dealer knew about that and fixed it. 19 MPG average so far. I hope this truck lasts as long or longer than the old one. It cost twice as much as the old one, but has twice the power and torque.
Is the '04 RAM a Hemi or a diesel? Your 19 MPG average is above average for the 5.7 Hemi.
Regards,
Dusty
Bests,
Dusty
Will change oil every 2k vs 3k, got that quick change oil plug.
Anyone change their Fan Belt & Spark Plug wires at 60,000 miles on a 2004 dodge 1500 4.7L V/8??
Do i have to to maintain the Warranty????
There are no spark plug wires on the 4.7 motor. Each spark plug has it's own coil.
I think the fan belt is a "use-to-failure" item.
Best regards,
Dusty
I have also had a strange vibration from the center of the truck at 70 mph that lasts until I hit 75 mph, then it goes away. Any clues?
Dusty
I have a 1998 dodge v10 4wd ex cab. while driving down the freeway at any cruising speed with your foot barley on the gas i gently accelerate and the truck starts jerking slightly like its cutting out. If i floor it no problems At slow speeds no problems. Any ideas,thanks for any help.
Question I have for you being you are the source for all the answers well most. I was reading the maintnence manuel on my 04 hemi 1500 and it says I should change it at 15000 miles, is this correct because it is a new truck and it seems pretty early to do such a change on the rear axle. I have a heavy duty F250 truck as well and I didnt have to change the oil from the axle to later. Just seems odd, but any help would be appreciated
Best regards,
Dusty
One thing most high test fuels will give you is increased fuel system detergents that will (usually) keep engine performance at optimum.
Bests,
Dusty
Engines and transmissions especially can get real gummy when sitting for long unused periods. But in all fairness, problems with the intake manifold gaskets were fairly common on the 3.9 V6 and the 318 and 360 motors of those years.
Best regards,
Dusty
After that we bought a 99 Ram 3500 V10 4x4 with only 11k on it in late 2003. Today its in for rear axle seals, t-case seal, front end is leaking and there is oil all over the bottom of the engine.......although they haven't found the leak yet. The truck has just 27k on it. Excellent reliable truck, but its leaky.
My Focus is just 6 months old and has 21k on it, no problems to date and I drive it 165 miles/day.
Age will kill a car quicker than miles me thinks.
ahasher
Thanks cgroves
av1cadet
The truck has been great - it's got 155K miles on it, and has had no unusual mechanical problems. However, I've got one nagging one that's been happening for a while now, and hope I can find a solution:
When I drive the truck, it shifts from 1st to second exactly as normal, but doesn't want to shift from 2nd to 3rd. If I let it, it'll run all the way up to redline (of course, I don't do that!) without shifting. Shifting from 3rd to 4th and then into overdrive happens as it should. It's only in this particular shift-point.
The temperature outside does not seem to be a factor, nor does the amount of time the engine (or tranny) has been running, as it'll happen any time, day or night, warm or cold, in any weather.
I have noticed, however, that if I "get down" on it or am towing a boat or other trailer, I don't experience it.
If I get to the normal shift point between 2nd and 3rd and it doesn't shift (it is intermittent - did I mention that?), then to get it to shift, I have to take my foot off the accellerator, and, as the truck slows, it'll eventually shift up, then I can hit the gas and go on as normal.
I'm wondering if perhaps I've got some fluid blockage or the computer is whacked out or something - looking for suggestions that I can try.
Todd
I'm wondering if a simple idle adjustment is all I need, or if it's doing any damage sitting where it is. The truck never stops, although I think another 50rpm and it probably would.
Todd
My questions are:
How reliable is this engine, mechanically? Any problems with condensation/sludge? Valve lifter’s realize the 3.7 is an overhead cam design based on the 4.7) Any inherent problems with the belt, belt tentioner idle pulley bearings, or water pumps etc.? The misfire at idle; could this be a bad coil? (I assume the 3.7 has independent coils for each spark plug) Or is this simply the characteristics of the 3.7? (I rented a Jeep Liberty with the same 3.7 for a week long vacation last winter and it idle very smoothly in comparison).
Since the truck has about 1 month left on the factory warranty (3yr-36K for 2002), I don’t want to end up with someone else’s prior problem (truck is at a used car lot, came from auction).
Anything owners of the 3.7 & auto can pass on would be very appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
Just found this site, great place! I have a '98 2500 RAM, 5.9 gas/5 spd manual that I bought used in the summer of '02 for $19 K CDN off a dealer lot. I love the truck, although it hasn't been entirely trouble free. Early last year, I had to replace the pinion bearings on the rear axle, as they were failing, as well as the fact that I have never been particularily happy with the power output, and the fact that it seems to burn a fair bit of oil although it doesn't foul the plugs. Thanks to this site, I am now aware of the potential sealing issue with the intake manifold, and I will perform the test when I get time the next few days.
The truck had 96,000 kms on it when I bought it, apparently the previous owner used it to haul seafood products on Vancouver Island. I decided to redo the brakes last fall. I shot the wad and replaced everything on the wheel assemblies. Unfortunately, in the process of trying to remove the spindle nut on the drivers side front axle, the thread galled on me and screwed up the stub shaft. I replaced it with a used one I found at an autowrecker. As well, the bearings on the passenger side front were failing, so I had to replace that too, as they are a unit construction, it cost me $300 for a new one from the dealership. Oh well, the joys of owning a used vehicle!
On the plus side, I can say that without a doubt this is the best 4x4 I have ever owned, and I have owned several. I am running BFG AT's, and have limited slip with the heavy duty axles. We recently had a bad snowstorm (20"+), and where I live is quite rural with really bad hills etc. This truck performed flawlessly in these conditions! A buddy of mine just bought a brand new F350 1 ton, diesel with ALL the options. He took it down a road I had previously been down (unplowed) and got hopelessly stuck! I didn't find out until the following day, when I was back there again, saw what looked like someone having all kinds of fun rototilling around in the snow. Found out later who it was, offered (in front of everyone at bar of course) to help him out in future should he require it, and that it was a good thing I had been there first, as otherwise he'd still be there......
I'm still reading earlier posts, some great info here, I will be happy to contribute what/when I can.
-=[al]=-
'98 2500 4x4
5.9 Magnum/5 spd manual
Neo 35 Jukebox - 18,000 songs
It tends to want to wander when taking curves -most noticeable at any speed over 50 miles and hour and right curves are far worse than left curves... it seems the entire truck wants to move as well as the back end kick out. I've had it aligned and I constantly check the tire pressure
Any ideas?? I've never had this problem before!
If it's just been 4 months, sounds like you're much harder than average on cornering. You may have accelerated wear in a suspension component. And regardless of time frame, check your front tires for either strange treadwear or possibly a cut/slow leak - this would also cause unusual handling problems.
kcram
Host - Wagons
I have had the tires checked - with the miles I drive the truck is at the dealer monthly for oil changes etc.