My 96 dodge 2500 4wds' front end will start bouncing uncontrollably when trying to brake. I have had the front end checked and the brakes. It is really bad if I am towing something and trying to brake going down hill. It even happened when I wasn't towing something and just pulling onto an off ramp that had a small decline at 40 MPH. It shakes so bad I have to come to a complete stop before it will quit. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab Diesel Automatic with about 1300 miles on it.
Periodically, when taking off from a stand still, I get the impression that the overdrive is off. The engine/transmission sound a little louder (whooshing noise). The problem clears itself after a few shifts, or if I change gears into 2 or 1 while stationary, and then I switch back into Drive, or if I turn the overdrive off and turn it back on again.
Anyone else experienced this before? Is this a common problem? Or I am just hearing things (this is my first automatic, and my first truck :-)
BTW, I love the truck. It’s a pleasure to drive.
2001 cummings diesel ext cab w/auto.4 wheel drive.I love the truck.you guys are scaring me about the tranny! any body know what type transmission this is? how many quarts of oil. changing to amsoil!! has 60,000 miles on it.
I have a 2004 ram 2500 with a cummins diesel. I have 12,000 miles on it at this time and have been running chevron delo 400 in it so far. I have changed it religiously every 2500 miles. I am planning on switching over to amsoil 15w-40 diesel oil at about 20,000. How long do you think I can leave that in. I thought about running it for about 20k each oil change, changing the filter about every 5k. I have been running the NAPA filters which are made by WIX. Do you think it is worth the cost of the amsoil filters. Has anyone put a remote mount filter on their diesel. The manual says that the differentials and transmission do not need to be serviced regularly if operated under schedule A conditions. Does that meen that they have synthetics from the factory. My truck is run pretty easily. I appreciate anyones input, it is nice to have someone elses opinion. Also when do you normally start using your block heater, does that same cord also run the battey blankets.
I'm doing 100% towing, between 12,000#-15,000# with my '03 Cummins HO. I dropped the first oil changed at 4k miles, and since have switched to approx. 7k mile intervals. The book calls for 7.5k miles for severe service, 15k miles normal)
I ran Rotella T (dino) until the 25k mile service. Cummins recommends using dino oil until the engine is broken-in, which can be as much as 20k miles if you baby the truck. I had the dino oil tested at 11k and 18k miles and it was WELL within specs. 7500 miles for severe service is apparently very conservative for my driving, which is mainly highway even though it's pulling a lot of weight.
I switched to Rotella T synthetic at 25k miles, but am sticking to the 7k mile oil/filter changes at least during the warranty. I will likely start testing around 100k miles (when warranty is up) to get an idea of how long I can extend the intervals. I'm guessing at least 15k miles with the synthetic and how clean the dino oil was at 7k intervals. Cummins doesn't have any adjustment in its service schedule when using synthetic oil on these engines. I wouldn't want to risk voiding the warranty, in case some massive failure takes place. Ever priced one of these engines? LOL!
My '01 has over 160k miles with no issues and it had book maintenance throughout the warranty and I now go 10k miles on Rotella synthetic. It has a less sophisticated oil system and was only rated for 5k mile changes for severe service. I always use Cummins/OEM or WIX NAPA Gold filters.
Newer Chrysler automatic transmissions have a sensor inside them that detects fluid temperature. This sensor sends a signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which defeatures the overdrive until the transmission fluid reaches a certain operating temperature. This is to ensure adequate transmission lubrication (flow)is available at low engine RPMs.
I own a 3500 4x4 and the outer edge of both front tires were wearing when a bought the truck 3 months ago with 160k. Prior to buying new tires I had an alignment done and the mechanic reported he expected to see the camber out but all the #s were in spec. In addition he could not find any individual steering part worn to the point of replacement. I put a new set of rubber on it (BFG Muds) and continue to see extreme tire wear on both outer edges. The mechanic orginaly suggested to replace all the tire rods as maybe stackup error was contributing to the movement. Ant ideas?
What exactly do you mean by (dino) oil. Also where did you have your oil tested. I know amsoil tests oil, or a lab that they use. It is around $15.00. I know these engines are expensive, and therefore want to maintain it the best that I can. I believe that amsoil makes a very good product, just don't want to change it too often, It really adds to the maintenance cost when you are putting in $80.00 worth of synthetics at a time. what other maintenance have you done to the rest of your truck, differentials, transmission, transfer case, etc. Thank you for your input. joe
blackstone labs does my testing. You can get the kits online or from many oil shops. I think Amsoil makes a good product, but IMHO, their pricing and distribution leaves a lot to be desired. You can buy the Rotella synthetic for $13-$15/gallon if you watch for it to be on sale. That's about 1/2 the cost of the Amsoil and tests out quite fine. The cheaper priced synthetics are a good compromise because I think they work just as well (we're not dealing with 10,000rpm racing engines here) and are reasonably priced. I have personally seen these engines go over 300k miles with conventional oil changes at the recommended intervals. I'm not sure the synthetic isn't overkill, however the extended drain intervals are convenient. But as I said, I don't extend my drain intervals until after the warranty.
My other fluids get dropped at 30k mile intervals.
My gas 99 ram shucked its tranny at 54000 miles. The tranny repair shop (a friend works there), says that they remove the check valve in the cooling line so that there is no restriction, this is per a service bulletin, and they also do valve body updates. He claims that after these things are done, the tranny shouldn't be feared.
That sounds reasonable to me, but this also happens after I've done a 20 mile drive on the freeway, and the temperature gauge is showing that the truck is at normal operating temperature.
Anyway, I've confirmed with my local Dodge dealer that there isn't a problem, so you were spot on!
Hi there I have a 99 Dodge 1500 Quad cab. I have about 70k on it and recently it seems like the tranny is not shifting. It almost seem like it's missing a gear. AT one point the car almost died and the check engine light began to flash. Since then it drives, but it still seems like the tranny is not shifting. A friend told me it might be a sensor, I'm worried it may be the tranny itself, any suggestions?
The older "RE" series Dodge automatics had the anti-drainback valve installed as a retrofit in the mid-nineties after complaints of engagement lag in cold temperatures. This valve, placed in the transmission cooler return line, prevented ATF from siphoning out of the torque converter. This siphoning caused intermittent loss of torque converter action.
As a warm engine and transmission was shutdown in extremely cold weather, the cooling of the fluid caused hydraulic contraction and fluid would be sucked out of the torque converter. The anti-drainback valve prevented reverse fluid flow under these conditions.
Unfortunately, the anti-drainback valve inserted a potential complexity in the system should it become clogged, which they did when the fluid became oxidized and dirty. The valves themselves could also become stuck shut in extremely cold weather if moisture collected around the internal valve plunger. Since the valve was external to the transmission and a fair distance from any heat generating components, a frozen valve would remain stuck long enough to cause a lack of lubrication flow that damaged clutches and other moving parts as the vehicle was moved.
In 1998 the "RE" series received a number of significant upgrades to increase fluid flow within the transmission, especially the overdrive unit. Other changes reduced the effects of a siphoned torque converter and cold weather operation was greatly improved. However, Dodge continued to install the anti-drainback valve on four-wheel drive versions and trucks shipped with a 360 motor. In 2001, except for trucks equipped with the cold climate retrofit, the anti-drain back valve was removed from production units altogether.
Your rebuilder is a good one. Removal (or replacement at intervals) of the anti-drainback valve is now recommended. The valve body update includes new solenoids with a more stable non-magnetizing plunger material.
i wanted ot see if my 4 wheel drive worked nd it seemed to but when i go to shift it back in my shifter goes up to the 2 hi position but when i turn u can still tell that it is in 4 wheel drive by the turning radious pls help me i need my truck for work
If you were testing it out on a firm surface you will have loaded up the axles and transfer case. To disengage under those circumstances you need to back up while snaking from side to side. You should only drive in 4WD on a soft or slippery surface that will allow the wheels to slip a little.
please help. ever since i charged a/c in april,,periodically, my engine will have a rough idle gasping for air. it sounds like a vacuum leak and dealer told me to have intake and plenum replaced. same problem. a/c was drained for this and seems better for 2 months. started up agai and i hear it could be ecm is bad..mechanincs and dealer have tried but cant find solution. seems to be related somehow to a/c...any ideas are very helpful...going back to dealer on the 15th,,,thanks
when i popped spring,,screwed up valve and had both heads replaced,,,now i have another problem,,mine had 75000 when it died. i bought aftermarket heads for 500 a pair
If the steering wheel shakes when you start to brake, it's probably warped rotors, but it sound's like your caster is off, find a good front end shop or a frame shop that does alignment
I have a 04 2500 quad cab, short bed diesel, same problem, had to 2 dealers, week's of no truck, they say it's an odd problem they havent found souloution yet, every time i went to dealer to ck on veh, they were telling anouther cust, the same thing, no matter what veh, they said it is an odd problem,we havent found fix yet, good luck
I own the same truck, has 16000 mi. has had the same vib. since new,only gets worse, i'v had to dealer they say they dont have the fix yet, there is several truck's out there with the same problem, hope they come up with the repair, good luck
I had the same problem with my 96 dodge. It turned out to be that the catalytic converter was coming apart shooting the little pellets into the exhaust plugging it up.
Hello everyone! I'm a newly registered member with a '96 Dodge Cummins and only 265k mi. This is a great truck, but I did have the transmission completely rebuilt at 165k and in the last few days it's the 47RE is starting to slip in 4th/OD. It really holds well up to about 60 mph and then acts like it's trying to downshift while the rpm jumps 100-200 revs. Otherwise, the shifts are picture perfect. This all started 5 days ago and today the downshift or TC slip caused the engine to rev up to 2500 rpm while cruising at 75 mph. I thought the transmission was downshifting and almost instantly shifting back to OD except for the occasional higher rev. The shift back up is the normal "soft" shift I regularly feel as the transmission shifts into OD.
Today I put the truck into the shop and the service manager told me there was evidence of metal shavings in the fluid and the filter was actually partially blown out. No wonder! I've driven over 100k mi without doing a thing to the transmission. I've never even had to add a drop of fluid. Perhaps a fluid and filter change could have saved me this repair cycle. The service manager recommends a complete rebuild because he thinks the problem is the torque converter is coming out of lockup. I thought of that, but I just can't figure out why the engine would rev 400 or 500 rpm because the TC was not in lockup.
I don't mind the $1700 to $1800 this is going to cost because the truck is worth every penny. I just wonder what the collective brain trust here thinks.
The best bet on these trannys (47RE) particularly with the diesel is to do an upgrade. Suncoastconverter.com sells a good kit/tranny, but you can look around for others. They're about twice the cost of a cheap rebuild, so it might be too late in the game for that much investment in this particular truck. If you would have upgraded the first time the tranny went, it would have been a no-brainer because you wouldn't be facing this second tranny rebuild.
My '01 has over 160k miles and I expect it will fail sometime soon, although I don't have any indication that there's a problem. I'll most likely be upgrading to a suncoast at that time. Unless I replace the truck before the tranny goes, LOL! Might not be a bad plan as I could use a bigger rig anyway and save the $3,000 or more for the upgraded tranny. My '03 is a six-speed and that's what I'll buy next time around as well.
Thanks, Sebring95. I probably will not do a Suncoast conversion because I plan to keep the truck only to 300k mi and trade it for a 5-speed with lower mileage.
As it turns out, I told the shop to change the filter and oil yesterday. They couldn't start on the truck until Friday, so I said I'd continue to drive it while arranging a rental car. Wouldn't you know it? The darn thing runs perfectly now.
I also heard that the TPS can be noisy (electrically) and cause the tranny to drop out of OD. I cleaned/lubed it also. I've put 150 miles on the truck and it's working perfectly, so my motto is, "If it ain't broke . . . ."
I'm going to call the shop and let them know I'll keep driving it until more problems show up. It's just a commuter 99% of the time, so if a problem shows up again, I'll get it fixed. JayPa
When I went to test drive this truck the Dealership knew what they were doing and took me on a smooth ride. The ride smoothness is just not there on older Highways / backroads. My question to anyone who has this experience is this : What can be done legally to the truck to make it a better ride while still under warranty ? Also, noticed water coming from the Catalytic converter. Is that normal ?
Tires will make or break a vehicle, it's the #1 factor on ride/handling. A good set of tires will do both well. I've seen a lot of Goodyear Wrangler RT/S on the normal sized wheels and those aren't the best tires by a long shot. If you've got the 20" tires, you have a lot less choices and you may not have luck getting a real smooth ride. Softer shocks could help as well, but you might wait until the new ones are broken in a bit.
Oh, almost forgot. Check your tire pressure. I've seen vehicles come off the rail cars with very high tire pressure (something to do with shipping) and the dealerships forget to lower them. You can also check the shock supports, some vehicles are shipped with blocks on the suspension that will screw-up a smooth ride quite quickly.
The wheels are 17.5 Michelins. The dealer has wanted me to bring it back for a test ride. Has said that the tires could be a problem. I'm just wondering if the Truck sat on the lot for a year or so ( just bought a '04 )could there be flat spots on the tires ? The only thing I dislike about the truck so far is the suspension. I find it odd that there isn't a shock absorber in the front. Why ?
I could be wrong, but as far as I'm aware it has IFS with upper and lower wishbones, and is sprung by torsion bars. Shock absorbers are still required and fitted.
Jaypa, I hate to tell you this but I know eight people that have the 47RE behind the Cummins and they've never had a problem. Most of them are over a 100K and some almost as much as your mileage (although, you're right up there!).
The difference is they've all done some kind of routine maintenance on the tranny. I don't want to say that you would've never had a problem if you had changed out the filter and fluid, but the 47RE is a tough transmission and a lot of other people just don't have a problem with them.
As far as the slipping out of fourth, this could be caused by a number of things that wouldn't necessarily mandate a rebuild. But if the filter's blown out like you say and there's an inordinate amount of shinny metal particles in the pan, it might just be better in the long run to rebuild that unit.
My 47Re is over 120,000 right now, and it's behind a stock 1996 Cummins. Like Dusty mentioned, I get this trans service annually, regardless of how much or how little I have driven between services. And it's a complete service: fluid, filter, screen, bands, pan gasket - not that "suck it out the dipstick tube" corner cutting method. The trans itself has never had a problem; the only trans-related problem I had was one of the colling lines sprung a leak, and the dealer took care of that with no sweat. Still snaps off the shifts.
I just got a commercial fueling card and on my account it says it is for low sulfur diesel. I have also been hearing about a new low sulfur fuel in 2006. I am curious about what effects this could have on my cummins motor? What exactly does the sulfur do? Will it cause me to have problems with the very expensive injection pump?
I have a 2004 Quad cab 4X4 with a six speed and cummins diesel with 3.73 gears. I commute 33 miles to work each way wich is mostly flat highway cruising at about 60-65 MPH. I average between 18 & 19 MPG. I have found that speeds above that can reduce your mileage dramatically though. I have had a trip where I only got about 14 MPG, that was driving at speeds around 80-85 MPH with lots of wind. Hope that helps.
I am also considering the purchase of a 2500HD 4x4 Cummins or Powerstroke in 2005 but i'm a little bit hesitant because of the ULSD that'll be in effect by 2007. My question is, how will it affect 2005 or earlier diesel engines? Are the current '05s "ready" or designed to run with ULSD? or Will there be dealer supplied add ons for older diesel engines to run using ULSD?
Is ULSD the new low sulphur fuel that will be deployed across the US? Also, do you know if that fuel will be the same across or will they continue with these regional mixes that drive up the cost of fuel.
The ULSD is going into effect acrossed the country. Not sure how this will effect some of the regional mixes, but regardless all will have to meet the sulphur content requirement.
As for engine problems, etc.....
The lack of sulphur is not what can cause problems. It's how the sulphur is removed. The cheapest way to remove sulphur at the refinery is to treat the fuel with hydrogen. But hydrogen can reak havoc on seals and such due to it's non-lubricating properties. I'm not sure how the end fuels will arrive here, it will depend on how each refinery goes about it. If hydrogen is used to remove the sulphur, they will then need to add a lubricity agent to the fuel. Either way, there won't need to be any modifications to your vehicle. If anything, you might need to add a quality fuel additive to be SURE there's a lubricity agent in the fuel if you're not buying from a known fuel source. Might be a little learning curve to it, but I don't anticipate any problems really.
I've got over 40,000 miles on my '03 Cummins 2500, and I drive mostly city stop and go miles, with a high cap and a lead foot. If this were a gas truck I'd be getting mileage in the single digits. As it is, I'm getting 16.66 mpg overall since I got the thing - computed on a spreadsheet. Funny thing, my trip computer is pretty accurate, since the average from it is 16.47 mpg. This is with no towing, occasional heavy loads, and regular long trips (to include my 5,245 mile trip to Wyoming this summer - 1,902 of which was driving from Kansas City MO to VA in a single day!)
well, sorry to be a spoil sport but a relative of mine had her 47re go out with only 30k miles on it. unfortunately truck was just past the three year warranty period (2000 model). lucky for her chrysler only made her pay about 500 bucks worth of the 2k tab. i can't remember what exactly went wrong but it required a complete rebuild...
I have about 70k on this truck.I checked the fan belt to me it looks good. Is it safe to run these belts into the 80-100k range or change around my milage? thanks
The fuel miliage, power,ride,etc. is great, except, before you buy the veh. drive it 60 mpi. then gradually go to 75 mpi. if you feel a vibration dont buy that truck. dodge factory cant fix it and dealers cant fix it, most of it is the factory wheels, and tires. Dont make the mistake I did.
I wish I had known, Ford is going to have the cummin's in 2005 I purchased a Dodge 2004 that has a vibration at 70 to 75 that will shake your teeth out, Dodge, and all the dealers can not fix, I've driven several ford's sinse, and they dont vibrate I probably will have to trade for a Ford when they have the cummins eng.
Ford is NOT going to have the cummins engine, they have a contract with Navistar for the Powerstroke through 2010 I believe. Ford DOES NOT own any part of Cummins, nor do they have a contract with them. The 2005 Super Duties are already out with the 6.0 Powerstroke diesel. Cummins has a contract with Dodge for several more years.
Comments
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab Diesel Automatic with about 1300 miles on it.
Periodically, when taking off from a stand still, I get the impression that the overdrive is off. The engine/transmission sound a little louder (whooshing noise). The problem clears itself after a few shifts, or if I change gears into 2 or 1 while stationary, and then I switch back into Drive, or if I turn the overdrive off and turn it back on again.
Anyone else experienced this before? Is this a common problem? Or I am just hearing things (this is my first automatic, and my first truck :-)
BTW, I love the truck. It’s a pleasure to drive.
Thanks,
J.
http://gblorry.blogspot.com/
Thanks, Jim
I ran Rotella T (dino) until the 25k mile service. Cummins recommends using dino oil until the engine is broken-in, which can be as much as 20k miles if you baby the truck. I had the dino oil tested at 11k and 18k miles and it was WELL within specs. 7500 miles for severe service is apparently very conservative for my driving, which is mainly highway even though it's pulling a lot of weight.
I switched to Rotella T synthetic at 25k miles, but am sticking to the 7k mile oil/filter changes at least during the warranty. I will likely start testing around 100k miles (when warranty is up) to get an idea of how long I can extend the intervals. I'm guessing at least 15k miles with the synthetic and how clean the dino oil was at 7k intervals. Cummins doesn't have any adjustment in its service schedule when using synthetic oil on these engines. I wouldn't want to risk voiding the warranty, in case some massive failure takes place. Ever priced one of these engines? LOL!
My '01 has over 160k miles with no issues and it had book maintenance throughout the warranty and I now go 10k miles on Rotella synthetic. It has a less sophisticated oil system and was only rated for 5k mile changes for severe service. I always use Cummins/OEM or WIX NAPA Gold filters.
Newer Chrysler automatic transmissions have a sensor inside them that detects fluid temperature. This sensor sends a signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which defeatures the overdrive until the transmission fluid reaches a certain operating temperature. This is to ensure adequate transmission lubrication (flow)is available at low engine RPMs.
Best regards,
Dusty
I put a new set of rubber on it (BFG Muds) and continue to see extreme tire wear on both outer edges. The mechanic orginaly suggested to replace all the tire rods as maybe stackup error was contributing to the movement.
Ant ideas?
blackstone labs does my testing. You can get the kits online or from many oil shops. I think Amsoil makes a good product, but IMHO, their pricing and distribution leaves a lot to be desired. You can buy the Rotella synthetic for $13-$15/gallon if you watch for it to be on sale. That's about 1/2 the cost of the Amsoil and tests out quite fine. The cheaper priced synthetics are a good compromise because I think they work just as well (we're not dealing with 10,000rpm racing engines here) and are reasonably priced. I have personally seen these engines go over 300k miles with conventional oil changes at the recommended intervals. I'm not sure the synthetic isn't overkill, however the extended drain intervals are convenient. But as I said, I don't extend my drain intervals until after the warranty.
My other fluids get dropped at 30k mile intervals.
That would be conventional oil (which comes from dinosaurs that have been squished deep underground for a long, long time!)
:--)
That sounds reasonable to me, but this also happens after I've done a 20 mile drive on the freeway, and the temperature gauge is showing that the truck is at normal operating temperature.
Anyway, I've confirmed with my local Dodge dealer that there isn't a problem, so you were spot on!
Regards,
J.
As a warm engine and transmission was shutdown in extremely cold weather, the cooling of the fluid caused hydraulic contraction and fluid would be sucked out of the torque converter. The anti-drainback valve prevented reverse fluid flow under these conditions.
Unfortunately, the anti-drainback valve inserted a potential complexity in the system should it become clogged, which they did when the fluid became oxidized and dirty. The valves themselves could also become stuck shut in extremely cold weather if moisture collected around the internal valve plunger. Since the valve was external to the transmission and a fair distance from any heat generating components, a frozen valve would remain stuck long enough to cause a lack of lubrication flow that damaged clutches and other moving parts as the vehicle was moved.
In 1998 the "RE" series received a number of significant upgrades to increase fluid flow within the transmission, especially the overdrive unit. Other changes reduced the effects of a siphoned torque converter and cold weather operation was greatly improved. However, Dodge continued to install the anti-drainback valve on four-wheel drive versions and trucks shipped with a 360 motor. In 2001, except for trucks equipped with the cold climate retrofit, the anti-drain back valve was removed from production units altogether.
Your rebuilder is a good one. Removal (or replacement at intervals) of the anti-drainback valve is now recommended. The valve body update includes new solenoids with a more stable non-magnetizing plunger material.
Best regards,
Dusty
Today I put the truck into the shop and the service manager told me there was evidence of metal shavings in the fluid and the filter was actually partially blown out. No wonder! I've driven over 100k mi without doing a thing to the transmission. I've never even had to add a drop of fluid. Perhaps a fluid and filter change could have saved me this repair cycle. The service manager recommends a complete rebuild because he thinks the problem is the torque converter is coming out of lockup. I thought of that, but I just can't figure out why the engine would rev 400 or 500 rpm because the TC was not in lockup.
I don't mind the $1700 to $1800 this is going to cost because the truck is worth every penny. I just wonder what the collective brain trust here thinks.
Thanks, JayPa
My '01 has over 160k miles and I expect it will fail sometime soon, although I don't have any indication that there's a problem. I'll most likely be upgrading to a suncoast at that time. Unless I replace the truck before the tranny goes, LOL! Might not be a bad plan as I could use a bigger rig anyway and save the $3,000 or more for the upgraded tranny. My '03 is a six-speed and that's what I'll buy next time around as well.
As it turns out, I told the shop to change the filter and oil yesterday. They couldn't start on the truck until Friday, so I said I'd continue to drive it while arranging a rental car. Wouldn't you know it? The darn thing runs perfectly now.
I also heard that the TPS can be noisy (electrically) and cause the tranny to drop out of OD. I cleaned/lubed it also. I've put 150 miles on the truck and it's working perfectly, so my motto is, "If it ain't broke . . . ."
I'm going to call the shop and let them know I'll keep driving it until more problems show up. It's just a commuter 99% of the time, so if a problem shows up again, I'll get it fixed. JayPa
The ride smoothness is just not there on older Highways / backroads.
My question to anyone who has this experience is this :
What can be done legally to the truck to make it a better ride while still under warranty ?
Also, noticed water coming from the Catalytic converter. Is that normal ?
Roy
Oh, almost forgot. Check your tire pressure. I've seen vehicles come off the rail cars with very high tire pressure (something to do with shipping) and the dealerships forget to lower them. You can also check the shock supports, some vehicles are shipped with blocks on the suspension that will screw-up a smooth ride quite quickly.
Obviously check the easy stuff first!
Water from the exhaust at startup is quite normql.
The only thing I dislike about the truck so far is the suspension. I find it odd that there isn't a shock absorber in the front. Why ?
Roy
No front shocks, are you sure??? If the shocks were missing the front end would be bouncy and 'floaty'.
The difference is they've all done some kind of routine maintenance on the tranny. I don't want to say that you would've never had a problem if you had changed out the filter and fluid, but the 47RE is a tough transmission and a lot of other people just don't have a problem with them.
As far as the slipping out of fourth, this could be caused by a number of things that wouldn't necessarily mandate a rebuild. But if the filter's blown out like you say and there's an inordinate amount of shinny metal particles in the pan, it might just be better in the long run to rebuild that unit.
Good luck and best regards,
Dusty
kcram
Host - Wagons
Thanks for any insight.
Thanks
j
As for engine problems, etc.....
The lack of sulphur is not what can cause problems. It's how the sulphur is removed. The cheapest way to remove sulphur at the refinery is to treat the fuel with hydrogen. But hydrogen can reak havoc on seals and such due to it's non-lubricating properties. I'm not sure how the end fuels will arrive here, it will depend on how each refinery goes about it. If hydrogen is used to remove the sulphur, they will then need to add a lubricity agent to the fuel. Either way, there won't need to be any modifications to your vehicle. If anything, you might need to add a quality fuel additive to be SURE there's a lubricity agent in the fuel if you're not buying from a known fuel source. Might be a little learning curve to it, but I don't anticipate any problems really.