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1. RAM 3500 SRW QUAD 4X2 Cummins 6-spd: The brochure said payload 4580lb, the truck 'built' came in at 3198lb, a difference of 1382lb! The brochure doesn't distinguish between the SHORT/LONG BED or the tranny type, so that may account for some of that, but I was still surprised. The salesman is looking at the details and promised an explanation.
2. GMC 2500HD SRW SHORT BED CREW 4X4 Isuzu/Allison: The brochure said payload 3342lb, the truck 'built' came in at 2770lb, a difference of 572lb. The brochure doesn't distinguish between the various engines available, and that would account for a big part of the loss.
The GMC 2500HD with 2770lb payload is marginal for my plans, so I now have the RAM guy 'locating' a RAM 3500 in the spec described above.
I have taken all of the advice I have gleaned from these pages to help me choose my truck and I want to thank everyone for their input and time. One exception: I really do not want to go to the long bed unless ABSOLUTELY necessary despite some concerns I have seen in these forums. Do the 'sliding hitch rigs' or other solutions solve this problem or am I asking for trouble with the short bed?
Also, I have eliminated my 4X4 requirement in favour of the 4X2. I don't really need a 4X4 and there were payload and trailer tow weight benefits to that decision (and $$$ savings). I also saw some concerns about the height of the 4X4 truck possibly colliding with the trailer on uneven terrain. Is this problem real?
The bottom line is: I'm in the market for a RAM 3500 SRW QUAD 4X2 Cummins 6-spd, thanks in many ways to the information provided in this forum.
My '01 is a short-bed and I have no problems. However, the trailers I pull with it are goosenecks, with slightly tapered noses. A fully boxed front 5th wheel type trailer would need some sort of slide. I've not messed with them, but my understanding is the sliders do work, they just take extra effort on your part. It really depends upon your trailer. Here's a pic of my '01 attached to my biggest trailer. It's overloaded, but there is no problem turning on a short-bed with this type of trailer.
BTW, my next truck will have the 4.10 rear end, long bed, along with the cummins, AND 4X4.. Didn't think I would ever need 4X4, but have had to use it several times.. When you need it, you're glad you have it.. My wife made me get a truck w/4X4... Also, 4X4 has a better resale value. Options we would buy again are: adjustable pedals, sliding rear window, red two tone looks good.
I would not get the fold down rear seat shelf.. never use it. Things slide too much on it.
This truck has 20K miles on it, and not one problem.. Best new vehical I have ever owned.. Would buy one again.. but will look at then new '06 Ford 250 when they come out...
So far we have 40k on the 2003 and about 21k on the 2004. We haven't had to take either truck back to the dealer for anything!!!! I mean weve never had any car or truck before that didn't have to go back for something. Were hoping that this new 3500 dually will be our only hauler since the other trucks will are used for more regular chores and just getting around.
hope you have as trouble free service from your RaM as weve had.
Any...repeat...ANY automatic with the 4.7 or hemi engines require ATF+4. Those two engines get the 545RFE five-speed auto which was designed around ATF+4.
This is the second report from somebody in here that got the wrong ATF at a Dodge dealership. They should know better. Fortunately, using ATF+3 is far, far better than using Dexron-Mercon, but I would go back to your dealer and demand that you get a complete flush and reinstall ATF+4.
As far as the rear axle lubricant, that's fine.
Please let us know how you make out on this one.
Best regards,
Dusty
I wouldn't mind getting the 4X4 but have also heard in this forum that there are potential problems with clearance between the bottom of the 5th wheel trailer and the top of the truck rails on uneven ground. What has your experience been?
That's good to hear. I'm sure it was just as he said.
But, just for grins keep that receipt tucked away somewhere...just in case.
Best regards,
Dusty
Looks like he will be dumping it when the ESC is up and moving to a new Ram 3500 DRW Cummins/6-spd. Only about 14k left on the ESC (about 6 months with the amount of miles we drive).
Washing your vehicle and using a carpet protector is a job well done
If I remember correctly, is this the transmission that got the Dexron-Mercon fluid by mistake, then flushed out and replaced with ATF+4?
Bests,
Dusty
I think the problem is too light of a rear end being asked to do too much. The truck has a 3.55 rear end and he's towing big loads with it, the truck struggles to pull hills. Its making the truck work harder than it needs to. We are going to get it fixed and get rid of it. Its time for a crew cab dually diesel. Just don't know which one to buy.
I know how you feel. I've seen some pretty pitiful dealers from both sides, as a field rep and as a customer.
I have to say, however, that it would too broad-brush to classify them all like this. I have to say that my last Nissan experience ('93 Sentra) and my current Dodge dealer ('03 Dakota) were very, very good. My Dodge dealer has treated me like I was somebody special, so far. Of course, I've had no issues, either.
My one and only Toyota experience ('99 Avalon) as been quite negative. These people seem to think that they have done you a favor by selling you a Toyota, just for the mere priviledge of owning one. I think Toyota dealers have the full potential of replacing Chevrolet dealers in supreme arrogance.
Best regards,
Dusty
If you're going to continue pulling the heavy stuff a Hemi 3500 would do the trick. Better yet, a cummins!
Best regards,
Dusty
We are going to buy a new truck, unfortunatly the truck we want won't exist until 2005, dealers up here have NO dually/diesels. Doesn't matter if its Ford/Dodge/Chevy. Well, Ford we would want a 6-spd, same with Dodge, neither truck exists. Chevy we can't get a diesel dually until next year since they are in short supply. No biggie, we will keep plugging along with the Dodge.
Talked to Dodge service dept and the truck has ever symptom of a plugging up cat. The cat rattles like crazy, they said the hard starting and rough shifting tranny along with the RPM jumps are all classic symptoms.
That's the ONE thing on this truck that has NO warranty on it, the emissions warranty for a HD Ram is 5/50k, we missed it by 6 mos. So, we are going to be shelling out $500-$800 to fix it. Pretty sad for a truck with 20k on it.
I doubt the truck will last another 6 mos like this, its really having a hard time. So, will have to limit driving it (course its almost impossible to start these days) and get it fixed as soon as we can.
Joe
I assume you're referring to a ring and pinion change over. Fifteen or so years ago a friend of mine did this to a 3/4-ton Chevrolet and it cost him around $1500.
You might try finding an entire rear axle assembly out of a wreck. It could be cheaper.
Best regards,
Dusty
Have you tried changing brands of fuel? I've seen bad fuel cause excessive smoking. Unless your truck just came from the factory with the power turned way up! Is this truck really fast or anything??
If all of your instrument lights are out I suspect a fuse. Unfortunately, I do not have any factory service literature for your year RAM.
In the mean time I would refer to your owner's manual and place an order for the factory service manual. In your situation it'll be worth it's weight in gold. They're around $130 US.
Best regards,
Dusty
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You may also have a case of what I call "babying the motor syndrome". I've never had this occur with my Cummins motors probably because they're pulling constantly. However, I have a VW Jetta diesel and if I drive it real easy with light throttle acceleration for a period of time, it builds up garbage in the intake. Could happen very fast with junky fuel. Then when you get on it hard, all that garbage gets sucked out of the intake and smoke rolls out the back. If you drive it a little harder all the time, it never builds up. If you can full-throttle accelerate numerous times and it always smokes, than you have a different issue. The fact you say it doesn't get driven hard may very well be the problem. These motors run better and get broken in more properly by working them. Even Cummins recommends working them by pulling loads for quicker break-in.
You very likely may just need a reflash of the computer. There are some settings that could be off a bit and will make the motor smoke under hard acceleration. It's not normal, so something needs corrected. I've done mods to my Jetta and you have to adjust the injection quantity in order to keep it from smoking. Probably something very similar on the Cummins, just a setting out of spec.
As for additives, they're a good idea. I don't get too hung up on them, but I do carry some with me in case I encounter some garbage fuel. I don't find the Cummins to be very picky when it comes to fuel. I've filled up at the same stations as others we were traveling with and the powerstrokes were choking on some bad fuel but mine just felt a little low on power. I keep a bottle of Standyne Performance Formula and Power Service (white bottle). I generally will run the Power Service white in the winter when it's cold, especially if I'm fueling somewhere I don't trust the fuel. The Stanadyne is a more powerful additive (and expensive) and I keep it on hand in case I get some nasty stuff like I mentioned above. Between my '01 and my '03 Cummins truck, I've got about 185k miles on these trucks and have never really had a fuel problem.
I am particularly interested in the longevity of the transmission, rear end, transfer case, etc. If the engine goes out it can be rebuilt, but I need a truck that I can rely on to pull cow trailers, and so forth.
I would appreciate any help anyone might be able to offer of the pros and cons of this set up with this mileage on it. I can buy it for $15,500.00 from a local dealer and have the prior owner's name and phone number so I can also call him to see why he got rid of it, but wanted some prior user's experience, if available.
We currently own a 1999 Ram 3500 V10 and its been pretty good, we haul firewood trailers and it doesn't complain about it. We get 10 mpg towing/hauling or empty. On long hwy trips it gets 13/14 mpg.
If I was looking for a truck to haul trailers around and didn't want to spend the $$$ for a diesel I would go for a V10. Then again, that's me. I know the 5.9L V8 is a pretty good engine, but its thirsty and not that great on power (at least in our experience).
The 360 "LA" engine has been around since the early seventies and the Magnum versions have also been very strong and durable. I wouldn't expect much in the gas mileage area, but I'm sure you know that looking at a one ton.
You'll probably replace a track bar in the next 25,000 miles, but thats about a $200 repair.
Best regards,
Dusty
I am trying to get around spending a fortune for a new truck, and good used trucks, especially diesels, are about as expensive as a new one. I do need reliability and the room of a quad cab, as my wife and I have the great joy of keeping our three grandchildren while their Mommies and Daddies work and I know there will be times when we have them that we will need to go places in the truck and take them with us.
Any recommendations on whether I should check out buying this '01 3500 with manual tranny and the 5.9 liter with 76,000+ miles on it? Oh, I do have the previous owner's name and phone number, so before I buy I'll talk to him about it to be sure there is nothing wrong with it and probably get a Carfax on it, as well.
You may find it a bit weak in power, depending on how much you're pulling. No idea what its capacity is on paper, but that's a very heavy truck and you'll likely run out of motor before chassis. Your best bet would be to drive it and pull a trailer if possible. Dealer should have no problem with this on a used truck. If you don't mind taking it slow, the truck might be great. That truck is a bit of a white elephant because most folks willing to put up with a dually/1-ton truck want the diesel power or at the very least a V10. Check the online book values and make sure you get a good deal on it.
Is the $2000 estimate for both the rear and front axles? With a 4x4 you really need to change both since the front and rear axle ratios should match. If the $2000 is for both axles and at a Dodge dealer it sounds like a very good price.
The trucks prev owners used it to haul a truck camper around and being a V10 somehow I doubt it was idled a lot. Those V10s suck gas like there's no tomorrow if idled. The truck is nearly 6 years old, things wear out, its an Anchorage truck, so not used to the extreme cold it went through last winter. It had a rough winter, not to mention hubby runs it up and down logging roads (not the easiest thing in the world on a truck).