I haven't actually been trying to 'build' a truck using the websites, what I have done is take the payload specs in the brochures, and now having visited both a GMC salesman and a RAM salesman today, I have some results that may surprise. Each of these salesmen 'built' me a truck/sales agreement using their in house software, and here are two results which came out: 1. RAM 3500 SRW QUAD 4X2 Cummins 6-spd: The brochure said payload 4580lb, the truck 'built' came in at 3198lb, a difference of 1382lb! The brochure doesn't distinguish between the SHORT/LONG BED or the tranny type, so that may account for some of that, but I was still surprised. The salesman is looking at the details and promised an explanation. 2. GMC 2500HD SRW SHORT BED CREW 4X4 Isuzu/Allison: The brochure said payload 3342lb, the truck 'built' came in at 2770lb, a difference of 572lb. The brochure doesn't distinguish between the various engines available, and that would account for a big part of the loss. The GMC 2500HD with 2770lb payload is marginal for my plans, so I now have the RAM guy 'locating' a RAM 3500 in the spec described above. I have taken all of the advice I have gleaned from these pages to help me choose my truck and I want to thank everyone for their input and time. One exception: I really do not want to go to the long bed unless ABSOLUTELY necessary despite some concerns I have seen in these forums. Do the 'sliding hitch rigs' or other solutions solve this problem or am I asking for trouble with the short bed? Also, I have eliminated my 4X4 requirement in favour of the 4X2. I don't really need a 4X4 and there were payload and trailer tow weight benefits to that decision (and $$$ savings). I also saw some concerns about the height of the 4X4 truck possibly colliding with the trailer on uneven terrain. Is this problem real? The bottom line is: I'm in the market for a RAM 3500 SRW QUAD 4X2 Cummins 6-spd, thanks in many ways to the information provided in this forum.
My '01 is a short-bed and I have no problems. However, the trailers I pull with it are goosenecks, with slightly tapered noses. A fully boxed front 5th wheel type trailer would need some sort of slide. I've not messed with them, but my understanding is the sliders do work, they just take extra effort on your part. It really depends upon your trailer. Here's a pic of my '01 attached to my biggest trailer. It's overloaded, but there is no problem turning on a short-bed with this type of trailer.
The discrepancy I referred to in the RAM 3500 numbers in my #938 related to the way the RAM brochure was laid out. Some of the information applied to SRWs, but the payload column provided the payload for the DUALLY, which is why that number dropped so drastically when I 'built' my SRW RAM.
YOU DO NOT WANT A SHOT BED FOR YOUR 5th WHEEL!!!!!!!... I have a 38' 5th wheel on a '03, 2500 SLT, 5.7, auto, short bed, 4X4. I love the truck, but have had (small dent on c-pillar) problems in tight turns. I now have a slider hitch (LOL).. If you look at the resale value of a long bed, the added stability and factor in the price diff of a slider hitch... the long bed is by far the best way to go...
BTW, my next truck will have the 4.10 rear end, long bed, along with the cummins, AND 4X4.. Didn't think I would ever need 4X4, but have had to use it several times.. When you need it, you're glad you have it.. My wife made me get a truck w/4X4... Also, 4X4 has a better resale value. Options we would buy again are: adjustable pedals, sliding rear window, red two tone looks good.
I would not get the fold down rear seat shelf.. never use it. Things slide too much on it.
This truck has 20K miles on it, and not one problem.. Best new vehical I have ever owned.. Would buy one again.. but will look at then new '06 Ford 250 when they come out...
Mr stann, if you buy the RAM you'll not be disappointd. We just picked up our third RAM the other day. we have a 2003 2500 and a 2004 1500, both with the hemi engine. Our new RAM is a 3500 dually and we traded in our nissan titan. the titan was a disapointment for towing. wE tow various size horse trailers with all our trucks. the RAms tow very well, better than any of our fords ever did. tHe brakes on the RAM are the best according to my husband. we like the way they handle and ride they have a solid cab and rattle free.
So far we have 40k on the 2003 and about 21k on the 2004. We haven't had to take either truck back to the dealer for anything!!!! I mean weve never had any car or truck before that didn't have to go back for something. Were hoping that this new 3500 dually will be our only hauler since the other trucks will are used for more regular chores and just getting around.
hope you have as trouble free service from your RaM as weve had.
Ihave a question about fluid on auto trans.My truck has 58000 on it with no problems so far and took it to dealer for 60k trans@filter change rear end and fuel system cleanout.They put the 75/140lube in the rearend and mopar atf+3 with new filters in trans.Is the atf+3 ok or should it have atf+4? Thanks Dennis
Any...repeat...ANY automatic with the 4.7 or hemi engines require ATF+4. Those two engines get the 545RFE five-speed auto which was designed around ATF+4.
This is the second report from somebody in here that got the wrong ATF at a Dodge dealership. They should know better. Fortunately, using ATF+3 is far, far better than using Dexron-Mercon, but I would go back to your dealer and demand that you get a complete flush and reinstall ATF+4.
Did your damage occur prior to installation of the slider hitch? Which make/model is it (I'm not familiar with the term LOL???) and what has your experience with it been? I wouldn't mind getting the 4X4 but have also heard in this forum that there are potential problems with clearance between the bottom of the 5th wheel trailer and the top of the truck rails on uneven ground. What has your experience been?
Dusty thanks for the response.I talked to the service manager today about the atf+3 that was showing on my reciept.He told me that when they did the filter @fluid change atf+4 is what was put in.He said he has not updated there reciept print out to show it.There changeing it now .They are well aware of useing the right fluid. dennis
Well, here we are 5k later (after the body shop incident) and it appears our Ram is coughing up a transmission. It shifts terribly and is slipping in O/D. This just started a couple weeks ago, its worse with a load behind it which is odd for this truck, normally a load makes it better. Pretty sad for a truck with only 20k on it.
Looks like he will be dumping it when the ESC is up and moving to a new Ram 3500 DRW Cummins/6-spd. Only about 14k left on the ESC (about 6 months with the amount of miles we drive).
You say the dealerships should know better . You are really giving them more credit than they deserve . Almost every service department is concerned on taking your money . NOT by doing the job right and being compensated for it ,they just want the money . They are not concerned about doing the job right . Washing your vehicle and using a carpet protector is a job well done
Yup, that would be the one. However, I don't think that's what caused this. The truck was always fussy, just got more so with the wrong fluid in it and when it was corrected it resumed its usually fussiness.
I think the problem is too light of a rear end being asked to do too much. The truck has a 3.55 rear end and he's towing big loads with it, the truck struggles to pull hills. Its making the truck work harder than it needs to. We are going to get it fixed and get rid of it. Its time for a crew cab dually diesel. Just don't know which one to buy.
I know how you feel. I've seen some pretty pitiful dealers from both sides, as a field rep and as a customer.
I have to say, however, that it would too broad-brush to classify them all like this. I have to say that my last Nissan experience ('93 Sentra) and my current Dodge dealer ('03 Dakota) were very, very good. My Dodge dealer has treated me like I was somebody special, so far. Of course, I've had no issues, either.
My one and only Toyota experience ('99 Avalon) as been quite negative. These people seem to think that they have done you a favor by selling you a Toyota, just for the mere priviledge of owning one. I think Toyota dealers have the full potential of replacing Chevrolet dealers in supreme arrogance.
I hope you'll excuse my aging memory, but is this a RAM 1500 with a 360? If it is I've seen many of these in this format and they do fine. Now if you are in extremely hilly country and carrying/towing heavier than average loads, then I'd agree with you. Still, I suspect something wasn't right with this truck from day one. I have a neighbor that pulled about 7500 pounds with a straight RAM 1500, 360 4x4 daily. He did rebuild the tranny at about 90,000, but then he never touched it in between, nor did he ever install a auxillary transmission cooler.
If you're going to continue pulling the heavy stuff a Hemi 3500 would do the trick. Better yet, a cummins!
Its a 1999 Ram 3500 V10/auto dually 4x4 reg cab with 19,800 miles on it.
We are going to buy a new truck, unfortunatly the truck we want won't exist until 2005, dealers up here have NO dually/diesels. Doesn't matter if its Ford/Dodge/Chevy. Well, Ford we would want a 6-spd, same with Dodge, neither truck exists. Chevy we can't get a diesel dually until next year since they are in short supply. No biggie, we will keep plugging along with the Dodge.
I would like to hear from anyone who has had experience towing a 5th wheel using a RAM 3500 or other 4X4. We have been able to locate several 2004 RAM SRW 3500's with manual 6 spd trannys in Western Canada but all have the 4X4 option, and we have seen some comments that there might be a problem of clearance between the bottom of the trailer overhang and the top of the truck rail (with a 4X4). Is this problem real with the RAM, or does this only apply to some current model Ford's where the bed depth/wall height was increased to provide more cubic volume in the beds?
had a difficult time starting ,i performed a basic tune up ,and it happened again,when i accelerate heavily, truck bogs down and check engine light flashes briefly.starts fine now but i expect this starting problem to reoccur.if any one has had a similar problem PLEASE RESPOND.
Talked to Dodge service dept and the truck has ever symptom of a plugging up cat. The cat rattles like crazy, they said the hard starting and rough shifting tranny along with the RPM jumps are all classic symptoms.
That's the ONE thing on this truck that has NO warranty on it, the emissions warranty for a HD Ram is 5/50k, we missed it by 6 mos. So, we are going to be shelling out $500-$800 to fix it. Pretty sad for a truck with 20k on it.
I doubt the truck will last another 6 mos like this, its really having a hard time. So, will have to limit driving it (course its almost impossible to start these days) and get it fixed as soon as we can.
I own a 2004 2500hd 4x4 with the 6.5 foot bed. I tow a 4 horse gooseneck trailer. I have not had any problems with the bed side wall clearance. This truck drives and tows better then a Chevy 3500 dually I use to have.
CV joint on drivers side of my brother-in-laws 1995 Ram 1500 4x4 needs changed. Bought a Chilton manual but it's not real clear how to remove the hub to get to the CV joint. Center of hub has a 1 11/16" castle nut that I cannot break loose. There is also 3 "star head" bolts from the back that I can get out but nothing really happens. What am I missing? Any help would be appreciated. Joe
03, 2500, 5.7, 5-speed auto, 4X4, 3.73... I need extra towing ability.. Checked on installing the 4.10 gears... Price seemed very high ($2K+)... Anyone ever had this done.. And what price seems reasonable?
I have just purchased a Ram 2500 with a cummins 600 and a 6-speed manual transmission. I know that diesels smoke when under load, but I also have been told that sometimes it is caused by a plugged up air filter. When I accelarate hard say over 2400 RPM I get a steady plume of black smoke out of the exhaust, I was just curious if everyones cummins does that. Also at start up I assume it is normal for blue smoke (oil) to come out of the exhaust for a few seconds. Thanks for any input. Joe
I assume you're referring to a ring and pinion change over. Fifteen or so years ago a friend of mine did this to a 3/4-ton Chevrolet and it cost him around $1500.
You might try finding an entire rear axle assembly out of a wreck. It could be cheaper.
This truck has a automatic 4/4 and has 4.10 rear end.Do the front@rear axle have 75/90 or 75/140 syn.It is used to tow with.It has about 10,000 miles on it.Thanks dennis
You shouldn't have any smoke with that truck, at ALL. Unless you've added a chip/power box you've got a problem. I have an '03 HO six-speed and beyond a small puff of smoke at cold start-up I cannot get it to smoke, empty or towing. This includes WOT from 2400-3800rpms pulling 15,000#, not any smoke! I pull a gooseneck constantly and there is no residual on the trailer anyway.
Have you tried changing brands of fuel? I've seen bad fuel cause excessive smoking. Unless your truck just came from the factory with the power turned way up! Is this truck really fast or anything??
Hi to all well this is the first time I have had reason to post on Problems and solutions, my 2002 1500 quad cab has a problem. The instrument lighting fails to come on when I turn on the lights at night, all controls are dark too. Can anybody advise or help me as we do not have the luxury of a Dodge dealer in the UK only specialists and as it is a personal import I do not have any warranty just keeping fuel in the tank keeps me poor it's over a dollar a liter here so think of us mad English guys driving American iron on our tiny roads.
If all of your instrument lights are out I suspect a fuse. Unfortunately, I do not have any factory service literature for your year RAM.
In the mean time I would refer to your owner's manual and place an order for the factory service manual. In your situation it'll be worth it's weight in gold. They're around $130 US.
Assuming yours is similar to mine, there is a control next to the headlamp switch that dims/brightens the dash/control lights. It's possible it's been turned all the way down. That's the easiest fix! Does the highbeam indicator or any other dash lamp come on when you start the truck? Those lamps do NOT dim/brighten with the switch.
My truck is completely stock. It is an 04 with the cummins 600. It usually doesn't get driven very hard at all, but on a hard acceleration you will get a stream of smoke out the exhaust. I will talk to my dealer about this. The truck only has 3,700 miles on it. I also do have some residual on the rear bumper from this. I am not to concerned but will ask some questions. Thank you for the fuel idea, I will try something else for a while. You said you run it from 2400-3800rpm. I didn't know that the motor would turn that fast. Where is it governed at? Thank you for your help.
I've never seen a governor. I've heard these motors are good for about 4100rpms according to some technical documents. You don't get much power up there anyway, I was just seeing if the thing would ever smoke.
You may also have a case of what I call "babying the motor syndrome". I've never had this occur with my Cummins motors probably because they're pulling constantly. However, I have a VW Jetta diesel and if I drive it real easy with light throttle acceleration for a period of time, it builds up garbage in the intake. Could happen very fast with junky fuel. Then when you get on it hard, all that garbage gets sucked out of the intake and smoke rolls out the back. If you drive it a little harder all the time, it never builds up. If you can full-throttle accelerate numerous times and it always smokes, than you have a different issue. The fact you say it doesn't get driven hard may very well be the problem. These motors run better and get broken in more properly by working them. Even Cummins recommends working them by pulling loads for quicker break-in.
You very likely may just need a reflash of the computer. There are some settings that could be off a bit and will make the motor smoke under hard acceleration. It's not normal, so something needs corrected. I've done mods to my Jetta and you have to adjust the injection quantity in order to keep it from smoking. Probably something very similar on the Cummins, just a setting out of spec.
Thank you for the reply. How about additives in the fuel. I have a friend who has a 92 cummins and when his injection pump went out at 163k the diesel shop told him to put an additive in his fuel on every fill up. I am not exactly sure what it is but he buys it at carquest auto parts. I think it may be a cetane additive. Amsoil sells something like this. I have also heard that I believe it is the more cetane in the fuel the better, I am not 100% sure of that though. At that same time I also heard that there was a range for how much cetane was in the fuel and most refiners had the minimum in their fuel. I will try and research that some more. Thanks, joe
Yes, the higher the cetane the better. Most #2 diesels are around 45 cetane. There are some premium diesels out there (and just because the pump says "supreme" or "premium" doesn't mean it is) but it's hard to find. BP/Amoco sells a premium fuel called "supreme" and if you can actually find that, it's terrific fuel. About 50 cetane, 30ppm sulphur (compared to 200-300ppm for #2), and it's as clear as water with very low odor. You really have to call the nearest bulk plant and ask them about it. They'll know if there's anywhere locally to buy that fuel. It's a lot more commonly dyed for off-road use so you have to watch out for that as well. Sunoco also has a premium diesel but it's also not really common even though most all their pumps say "premium".
As for additives, they're a good idea. I don't get too hung up on them, but I do carry some with me in case I encounter some garbage fuel. I don't find the Cummins to be very picky when it comes to fuel. I've filled up at the same stations as others we were traveling with and the powerstrokes were choking on some bad fuel but mine just felt a little low on power. I keep a bottle of Standyne Performance Formula and Power Service (white bottle). I generally will run the Power Service white in the winter when it's cold, especially if I'm fueling somewhere I don't trust the fuel. The Stanadyne is a more powerful additive (and expensive) and I keep it on hand in case I get some nasty stuff like I mentioned above. Between my '01 and my '03 Cummins truck, I've got about 185k miles on these trucks and have never really had a fuel problem.
Thanks sebring95 and Dustyk for taking the time to look at my problem it's not that control switch as it still turns on the interior dome lamp and cargo lamp but fails brighten all the dash lights which are not coming on at all, fuses check out ok. the odometer and clock on the radio is the only thing that comes on and dims when you turn that switch. Any suggestions guys.
Well, the next logical check IMHO would be the harness that supplies power to the lights in the dash. Where is that you ask?? I don't know! I would recommend searching for a more technical dodge related site and ask about a wiring schematic. Edmunds doesn't allow me to list links to other sites that have forums where you could likely get this from. There may also be a sub-fuse under the hood that provides power for this as well.
I have a 1998 Ram 1500 w/318 V8, 93000 miles. A few months ago my check engine light came on. I took it to a local dealer who said I needed a top end rebuild. Not believing this, I took it to a local repair shop. The code read 'no. 2 cylinder misfire'. They changed the plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil. A few days later, the light came on -- same code. The shop then replaced the no. 2 injector. A week or so later, the light came on -- same code. Now it comes on sometimes and then goes out. I disconnected the battery to reset the computer but the light just keeps coming back. Any advice from someone out there?
I am looking at a used Dodge Ram truck as described above. It has a five speed manual, 4x4, quad cab, long wheel base, dual rear wheels, and has just under 77,000 miles on it. It drives good, shifts easily, and the engine doesn't smoke or skip. Can anyone give me any feedback as to the reliability of such a truck to use for towing and general transportation? Also, does anyone know the towing capacity of such a setup?
I am particularly interested in the longevity of the transmission, rear end, transfer case, etc. If the engine goes out it can be rebuilt, but I need a truck that I can rely on to pull cow trailers, and so forth.
I would appreciate any help anyone might be able to offer of the pros and cons of this set up with this mileage on it. I can buy it for $15,500.00 from a local dealer and have the prior owner's name and phone number so I can also call him to see why he got rid of it, but wanted some prior user's experience, if available.
Probably be disappointed with the power of that engine when towing. We had a 2001 Ram 2500 with the 5.9L V8 and it was the worst truck we've ever owned. Course it was an automatic and couldn't keep a tranny to save its own life. We traded it for a 2002 Ram 2500 V10, MUCH better truck, more power and strangely enough, better fuel economy.
We currently own a 1999 Ram 3500 V10 and its been pretty good, we haul firewood trailers and it doesn't complain about it. We get 10 mpg towing/hauling or empty. On long hwy trips it gets 13/14 mpg.
If I was looking for a truck to haul trailers around and didn't want to spend the $$$ for a diesel I would go for a V10. Then again, that's me. I know the 5.9L V8 is a pretty good engine, but its thirsty and not that great on power (at least in our experience).
This particular combination has been solid. Some will have the opinion that the transmission is a weak area (based on 1/2 ton experience), but a 360 with a 47RE in a one-ton has been very reliable. Change the ATF and filter at or before scheduled mileage, use only ATF+4, and you shouldn't have a problem with it.
The 360 "LA" engine has been around since the early seventies and the Magnum versions have also been very strong and durable. I wouldn't expect much in the gas mileage area, but I'm sure you know that looking at a one ton.
You'll probably replace a track bar in the next 25,000 miles, but thats about a $200 repair.
This truck has a five speed manual transmission, dustyk. Sorry I wasn't clearer on that. What about longevity on it and the rest of the running gear? As well as the 5.9 liter engine?
I am trying to get around spending a fortune for a new truck, and good used trucks, especially diesels, are about as expensive as a new one. I do need reliability and the room of a quad cab, as my wife and I have the great joy of keeping our three grandchildren while their Mommies and Daddies work and I know there will be times when we have them that we will need to go places in the truck and take them with us.
Any recommendations on whether I should check out buying this '01 3500 with manual tranny and the 5.9 liter with 76,000+ miles on it? Oh, I do have the previous owner's name and phone number, so before I buy I'll talk to him about it to be sure there is nothing wrong with it and probably get a Carfax on it, as well.
The engine and tranny should be fine. The five-speeds are quite robust, although notchy and the gearing is a bit strange. I have a relative with over 300k miles on a 5.9L.
You may find it a bit weak in power, depending on how much you're pulling. No idea what its capacity is on paper, but that's a very heavy truck and you'll likely run out of motor before chassis. Your best bet would be to drive it and pull a trailer if possible. Dealer should have no problem with this on a used truck. If you don't mind taking it slow, the truck might be great. That truck is a bit of a white elephant because most folks willing to put up with a dually/1-ton truck want the diesel power or at the very least a V10. Check the online book values and make sure you get a good deal on it.
I was going to work this morning and the yellow check engine light came on an stayed.Later went by the dealer put new gas cap on problem solved. 60k on this truck .
Is the $2000 estimate for both the rear and front axles? With a 4x4 you really need to change both since the front and rear axle ratios should match. If the $2000 is for both axles and at a Dodge dealer it sounds like a very good price.
Turns out the no oil pressure on start up with our 99 Ram 3500 V10 was more than just an oil pressure sending unit. Looks like its the oil pump, the TPS is also bad causing an RPM jump at hwy speed, a couple leaks, and the tranny is acting up. So its at the dealer for the next few days. We are glad we bought an ESC for it......all this and only 20k on the truck.
Is it possible this truck has a rediculous amount of hours on the motor? IIRC, you're in Alaska right? It's rather known down here in the lower 48 to avoid alaska trucks. We get tons of them on lease/fleet returns and they're usually pretty easy to spot. Ford F-250's are usually what show up and many will have 35k miles on a '99-02 model, but the hour meters will read 5,000. Worn suspension and steering components from being used in rough terrain and motors comparable to a driven truck with 150,000 miles make for a bad deal IMHO. I don't think Dodge had hour meters on the '99 models so you may never know.
It might, but I doubt it. The truck looks new inside and out. I can spot a high hour truck, its all in how they look and run. The slope rigs are easy to spot, just look for the groove in the top of the steering wheel from the guy sitting in it all day with his arm resting on it. Actually, there's other ways, but yes, I do know what you mean.
The trucks prev owners used it to haul a truck camper around and being a V10 somehow I doubt it was idled a lot. Those V10s suck gas like there's no tomorrow if idled. The truck is nearly 6 years old, things wear out, its an Anchorage truck, so not used to the extreme cold it went through last winter. It had a rough winter, not to mention hubby runs it up and down logging roads (not the easiest thing in the world on a truck).
Comments
1. RAM 3500 SRW QUAD 4X2 Cummins 6-spd: The brochure said payload 4580lb, the truck 'built' came in at 3198lb, a difference of 1382lb! The brochure doesn't distinguish between the SHORT/LONG BED or the tranny type, so that may account for some of that, but I was still surprised. The salesman is looking at the details and promised an explanation.
2. GMC 2500HD SRW SHORT BED CREW 4X4 Isuzu/Allison: The brochure said payload 3342lb, the truck 'built' came in at 2770lb, a difference of 572lb. The brochure doesn't distinguish between the various engines available, and that would account for a big part of the loss.
The GMC 2500HD with 2770lb payload is marginal for my plans, so I now have the RAM guy 'locating' a RAM 3500 in the spec described above.
I have taken all of the advice I have gleaned from these pages to help me choose my truck and I want to thank everyone for their input and time. One exception: I really do not want to go to the long bed unless ABSOLUTELY necessary despite some concerns I have seen in these forums. Do the 'sliding hitch rigs' or other solutions solve this problem or am I asking for trouble with the short bed?
Also, I have eliminated my 4X4 requirement in favour of the 4X2. I don't really need a 4X4 and there were payload and trailer tow weight benefits to that decision (and $$$ savings). I also saw some concerns about the height of the 4X4 truck possibly colliding with the trailer on uneven terrain. Is this problem real?
The bottom line is: I'm in the market for a RAM 3500 SRW QUAD 4X2 Cummins 6-spd, thanks in many ways to the information provided in this forum.
My '01 is a short-bed and I have no problems. However, the trailers I pull with it are goosenecks, with slightly tapered noses. A fully boxed front 5th wheel type trailer would need some sort of slide. I've not messed with them, but my understanding is the sliders do work, they just take extra effort on your part. It really depends upon your trailer. Here's a pic of my '01 attached to my biggest trailer. It's overloaded, but there is no problem turning on a short-bed with this type of trailer.
BTW, my next truck will have the 4.10 rear end, long bed, along with the cummins, AND 4X4.. Didn't think I would ever need 4X4, but have had to use it several times.. When you need it, you're glad you have it.. My wife made me get a truck w/4X4... Also, 4X4 has a better resale value. Options we would buy again are: adjustable pedals, sliding rear window, red two tone looks good.
I would not get the fold down rear seat shelf.. never use it. Things slide too much on it.
This truck has 20K miles on it, and not one problem.. Best new vehical I have ever owned.. Would buy one again.. but will look at then new '06 Ford 250 when they come out...
So far we have 40k on the 2003 and about 21k on the 2004. We haven't had to take either truck back to the dealer for anything!!!! I mean weve never had any car or truck before that didn't have to go back for something. Were hoping that this new 3500 dually will be our only hauler since the other trucks will are used for more regular chores and just getting around.
hope you have as trouble free service from your RaM as weve had.
Any...repeat...ANY automatic with the 4.7 or hemi engines require ATF+4. Those two engines get the 545RFE five-speed auto which was designed around ATF+4.
This is the second report from somebody in here that got the wrong ATF at a Dodge dealership. They should know better. Fortunately, using ATF+3 is far, far better than using Dexron-Mercon, but I would go back to your dealer and demand that you get a complete flush and reinstall ATF+4.
As far as the rear axle lubricant, that's fine.
Please let us know how you make out on this one.
Best regards,
Dusty
I wouldn't mind getting the 4X4 but have also heard in this forum that there are potential problems with clearance between the bottom of the 5th wheel trailer and the top of the truck rails on uneven ground. What has your experience been?
That's good to hear. I'm sure it was just as he said.
But, just for grins keep that receipt tucked away somewhere...just in case.
Best regards,
Dusty
Looks like he will be dumping it when the ESC is up and moving to a new Ram 3500 DRW Cummins/6-spd. Only about 14k left on the ESC (about 6 months with the amount of miles we drive).
Washing your vehicle and using a carpet protector is a job well done
If I remember correctly, is this the transmission that got the Dexron-Mercon fluid by mistake, then flushed out and replaced with ATF+4?
Bests,
Dusty
I think the problem is too light of a rear end being asked to do too much. The truck has a 3.55 rear end and he's towing big loads with it, the truck struggles to pull hills. Its making the truck work harder than it needs to. We are going to get it fixed and get rid of it. Its time for a crew cab dually diesel. Just don't know which one to buy.
I know how you feel. I've seen some pretty pitiful dealers from both sides, as a field rep and as a customer.
I have to say, however, that it would too broad-brush to classify them all like this. I have to say that my last Nissan experience ('93 Sentra) and my current Dodge dealer ('03 Dakota) were very, very good. My Dodge dealer has treated me like I was somebody special, so far. Of course, I've had no issues, either.
My one and only Toyota experience ('99 Avalon) as been quite negative. These people seem to think that they have done you a favor by selling you a Toyota, just for the mere priviledge of owning one. I think Toyota dealers have the full potential of replacing Chevrolet dealers in supreme arrogance.
Best regards,
Dusty
If you're going to continue pulling the heavy stuff a Hemi 3500 would do the trick. Better yet, a cummins!
Best regards,
Dusty
We are going to buy a new truck, unfortunatly the truck we want won't exist until 2005, dealers up here have NO dually/diesels. Doesn't matter if its Ford/Dodge/Chevy. Well, Ford we would want a 6-spd, same with Dodge, neither truck exists. Chevy we can't get a diesel dually until next year since they are in short supply. No biggie, we will keep plugging along with the Dodge.
Talked to Dodge service dept and the truck has ever symptom of a plugging up cat. The cat rattles like crazy, they said the hard starting and rough shifting tranny along with the RPM jumps are all classic symptoms.
That's the ONE thing on this truck that has NO warranty on it, the emissions warranty for a HD Ram is 5/50k, we missed it by 6 mos. So, we are going to be shelling out $500-$800 to fix it. Pretty sad for a truck with 20k on it.
I doubt the truck will last another 6 mos like this, its really having a hard time. So, will have to limit driving it (course its almost impossible to start these days) and get it fixed as soon as we can.
Joe
I assume you're referring to a ring and pinion change over. Fifteen or so years ago a friend of mine did this to a 3/4-ton Chevrolet and it cost him around $1500.
You might try finding an entire rear axle assembly out of a wreck. It could be cheaper.
Best regards,
Dusty
Have you tried changing brands of fuel? I've seen bad fuel cause excessive smoking. Unless your truck just came from the factory with the power turned way up! Is this truck really fast or anything??
If all of your instrument lights are out I suspect a fuse. Unfortunately, I do not have any factory service literature for your year RAM.
In the mean time I would refer to your owner's manual and place an order for the factory service manual. In your situation it'll be worth it's weight in gold. They're around $130 US.
Best regards,
Dusty
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You may also have a case of what I call "babying the motor syndrome". I've never had this occur with my Cummins motors probably because they're pulling constantly. However, I have a VW Jetta diesel and if I drive it real easy with light throttle acceleration for a period of time, it builds up garbage in the intake. Could happen very fast with junky fuel. Then when you get on it hard, all that garbage gets sucked out of the intake and smoke rolls out the back. If you drive it a little harder all the time, it never builds up. If you can full-throttle accelerate numerous times and it always smokes, than you have a different issue. The fact you say it doesn't get driven hard may very well be the problem. These motors run better and get broken in more properly by working them. Even Cummins recommends working them by pulling loads for quicker break-in.
You very likely may just need a reflash of the computer. There are some settings that could be off a bit and will make the motor smoke under hard acceleration. It's not normal, so something needs corrected. I've done mods to my Jetta and you have to adjust the injection quantity in order to keep it from smoking. Probably something very similar on the Cummins, just a setting out of spec.
As for additives, they're a good idea. I don't get too hung up on them, but I do carry some with me in case I encounter some garbage fuel. I don't find the Cummins to be very picky when it comes to fuel. I've filled up at the same stations as others we were traveling with and the powerstrokes were choking on some bad fuel but mine just felt a little low on power. I keep a bottle of Standyne Performance Formula and Power Service (white bottle). I generally will run the Power Service white in the winter when it's cold, especially if I'm fueling somewhere I don't trust the fuel. The Stanadyne is a more powerful additive (and expensive) and I keep it on hand in case I get some nasty stuff like I mentioned above. Between my '01 and my '03 Cummins truck, I've got about 185k miles on these trucks and have never really had a fuel problem.
I am particularly interested in the longevity of the transmission, rear end, transfer case, etc. If the engine goes out it can be rebuilt, but I need a truck that I can rely on to pull cow trailers, and so forth.
I would appreciate any help anyone might be able to offer of the pros and cons of this set up with this mileage on it. I can buy it for $15,500.00 from a local dealer and have the prior owner's name and phone number so I can also call him to see why he got rid of it, but wanted some prior user's experience, if available.
We currently own a 1999 Ram 3500 V10 and its been pretty good, we haul firewood trailers and it doesn't complain about it. We get 10 mpg towing/hauling or empty. On long hwy trips it gets 13/14 mpg.
If I was looking for a truck to haul trailers around and didn't want to spend the $$$ for a diesel I would go for a V10. Then again, that's me. I know the 5.9L V8 is a pretty good engine, but its thirsty and not that great on power (at least in our experience).
The 360 "LA" engine has been around since the early seventies and the Magnum versions have also been very strong and durable. I wouldn't expect much in the gas mileage area, but I'm sure you know that looking at a one ton.
You'll probably replace a track bar in the next 25,000 miles, but thats about a $200 repair.
Best regards,
Dusty
I am trying to get around spending a fortune for a new truck, and good used trucks, especially diesels, are about as expensive as a new one. I do need reliability and the room of a quad cab, as my wife and I have the great joy of keeping our three grandchildren while their Mommies and Daddies work and I know there will be times when we have them that we will need to go places in the truck and take them with us.
Any recommendations on whether I should check out buying this '01 3500 with manual tranny and the 5.9 liter with 76,000+ miles on it? Oh, I do have the previous owner's name and phone number, so before I buy I'll talk to him about it to be sure there is nothing wrong with it and probably get a Carfax on it, as well.
You may find it a bit weak in power, depending on how much you're pulling. No idea what its capacity is on paper, but that's a very heavy truck and you'll likely run out of motor before chassis. Your best bet would be to drive it and pull a trailer if possible. Dealer should have no problem with this on a used truck. If you don't mind taking it slow, the truck might be great. That truck is a bit of a white elephant because most folks willing to put up with a dually/1-ton truck want the diesel power or at the very least a V10. Check the online book values and make sure you get a good deal on it.
Is the $2000 estimate for both the rear and front axles? With a 4x4 you really need to change both since the front and rear axle ratios should match. If the $2000 is for both axles and at a Dodge dealer it sounds like a very good price.
The trucks prev owners used it to haul a truck camper around and being a V10 somehow I doubt it was idled a lot. Those V10s suck gas like there's no tomorrow if idled. The truck is nearly 6 years old, things wear out, its an Anchorage truck, so not used to the extreme cold it went through last winter. It had a rough winter, not to mention hubby runs it up and down logging roads (not the easiest thing in the world on a truck).