I picked the truck up last night at closing and drove it home.
The tranny mech said he found nothing unusual in the pan or filter, everything looked really good.
Truck seems better, its still harsh shifting, but not as bad as it was and could just be the truck. The slipping seems to be gone. Time will tell I guess. The general manager of the body shop told me to let him know if there are any more problems and they will take it from there.
Hopefully we dodged (no pun intended) the bullet and the truck will be just fine.
On another note......got 13.2 mpg through the hills with it on the way home, best ever. Thought that was awesome mileage since I've yet to see over 17 mpg hwy with my V6 Explorer.
I'm trying to remember if I've ever driven a one-ton Dodge. I'm thinking I haven't, but a number of F350s and C3500s.
My somewhat cob-webbed and fragile memory seems to be telling me that in heavy duty versions of Fords and GMs the automatics shift with a "crispness" lacking in the 1/2-ton series. I guess a fellow RAM 3500 owner could give you a better idea if you can find one to test drive yours.
On "RE" series there is a "throttle valve" cable (formerly known as the modulator valve cable) that can cause abrupt shifts if out of adjustment. They are easy to adjust.
Since Dexron was used for a period of time it is possible that the kickdown band (or front band) is out of adjustment from being incorrectly lubricated, or the kickdown band accumulator is stuck closed from excessively dirty ATF. On Chryslers the kickdown band adjustment can be performed from outside the transmission case and is relatively easy to access. I've seen an experienced transmission tech. do one in five minutes on a lift. A inch-pound torque wrench is required.
By the way, I hope they got all of that Dexron out for you.
I'm sure they did, George, the tranny guy at the dodge dealer is pretty against Dex/Merc and is a good guy, very careful. He looked it over really good and said things looked fine.
If I had driven and/or ridden in the truck prior to this I would know what was normal, but unfortunatly during its steering gear box problem time I avoided the truck like the plague.
I haven't had a chance to ask my husband what he thought, he drove it to work this morning. They have been on a hazmat emergency all day, so his time to talk is very short.
BTW, don't pour hydrochloric acid down the drain, makes for a not so nice mess.
We are in the market for a new truck. Having been a ford owner for many years I have little experience with the Dodges. Am looking at buying a 2004, 3/4 ton diesel but have heard bad things about dodge transmissions. Dealers always try to sooth the soul by saying they have fixed the problem, I would like to hear from owners. I don't want to spend $35,000.00 on a truck to have it sitting in the repair shop most of the time. What are your thoughts on the transmissions and is it worth my time to pursue it any further?
I've got a six-speed, and it's about as bullet-proof a tranny as you can get even with the huge torque of the diesel. The automatics have gotten a bad rap previously, but I haven't heard of any problems in the past year or so of the newer Cummins and the newest tranny.
There were a couple of weaknesses in the Dodge "RE" series automatics some years ago and they have been addressed. Marginal fluid flow to the overdrive unit, punky shift solenoids and the corrosion of the associated wiring was another.
The fluid flow problem was resolved in a number of ways, including a significant increase to flow rate in the '98 model year via a major upgrade. The problem was exacerbated by operation in overdrive in extremely cold temperatures. The half-ton 360 V8 models in 4x4 where the most susceptible because these where used a lot for snowplowing. Also, many people used overdrive during heavy loads when they should not have. Chrysler now defeatures entry into overdrive until the transmission reaches a certain temperature, and PCM reprogramming allows earlier downshifts and torque converter unlock to prevent fluid flow problems at low RPMs.
The shift solenoids were probably even more the problem. Intermittent operation or complete failure was due to the solenoid core becoming magnetized over time causing the device to become frozen in one position. Solenoid packs have new ceramic core solenoids that won't magnetize. The electrical wiring to the solenoid pack was not well protected on earlier models and they were prone to developing bad connections. This has been fixed, too.
Emale has included a link to a site that contends that the 47RE is lacking in lubrication to the rear thrust washer. This may in fact be true. However, a polling of the transmission technicians around here seems to indicate that this transmission is very robust. In addition, this may only be applicable to the 47RE diesel version. My sources indicate that with the gas models the 47RE enjoys long and trouble free life.
The new 545RFE transmission used on the RAM with the 4.7 and Hemi motors has a reputation for being almost indestructable. Complete failures are extremely rare and complaints are very few.
Anecdotal reports from third parties (I know a guy who knows a guy who had a Dodge.....) are often based on incorrect, inaccurate, or completely false information. Having a Ford or Chevy guy meanmouth Dodge transmissions may be an excercise in prurient self-fulfillment.
My advice to you is to check out your local transmission shops for a month or two and take notice of what you see coming in for transmission work. I think you will be very surprised!!!
I just bought my 2000 Ram 1500. It has a 5.9 liter motor with 4 speed automatic overdrive tranny. Recently, the overdrive off light came on and the transmission came out of overdrive automatically. The manual said the tranny will do this if the fluid temp reaches 270 degrees. I was not towing a trailer or hauling a load. I do live in hilly terrain, but I didn't expect the truck to do this. Is this a problem? Has anyone else experienced this routinely? My mechanic said that he thought a fluid/screen change would probably fix it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
VSP900's question about overtemp on his Dodge truck auto reminded me of another problem.
In VSP's case his vintage 360cid 4x4 is probably a 46RE, the 47RE's littler brother. These usually have an in-line anti-drain back valve in the cooling return line. The purpose is to prevent transmission fluid from siphoning out of the torque converter after the vehicle has been shut down. In colder weather with the cooling down of the contracting ATF overnight, the torque converter can be partially drained. On restart, the fluid being harder to pump because of its temperature, the torque converter is not completely full when the driver places the transmission into gear.
At vehicle launch with an absence of the correct amount of fluid the torque converter is still filling causing a pressure drop in the clutches. This causes premature wear of the facings and loads up the fluid with clutch facing material. This material then begins to clog the anti-drain back valve. This can cause overheating of the transmission.
Some independent transmission repair facilities will remove this valve at rebuild. While this will probably prevent a repeat occurence in the same manner, cold weather will still cause siphoning of the torque converter and the comensurate clutch wear.
Although it can cause a partial to full blockage of fluid flow when the fluid is dirty, this valve should be maintained in the system. If the Chrysler service interval is followed neither a blocked anti-drain back valve or dirty fluid should be a problem. If the maintenance history of the vehicle is unknown, I would advise a complete flush of the ATF, a new transmission filter, and a anti-drain back valve replacement.
edmunds will not allow that link i posted and thus deleted the post...and the link was about the 48RE and not the 47RE. if anyone wants to see the link just email me...
as per the 45RFE...i understand it has 727/a5xx mechanicals and a604 electronics/controls. and like dusty said is seems to be a hearty unit...there has to be some out there with tons o miles since it's been out since late '98.
***My sources indicate that with the gas models the 47RE enjoys long and trouble free life.***
Unless a body shop puts the wrong fluid in. ;-) Sorry, couldn't resist. We will be towing a big trailer tomorrow with the Dodge, so should give us a good idea if something is wrong or not.
On another note, the guy who did this to our truck was fired from the body shop on Monday.
Still checking around and haven't quite made up my mind. Lot of money to invest and just don't want to jump in head first without knowing what I am getting into. Appreciate the advice!
In reference to the anti-drain back valve, is that something I can replace while I'm doing the filter swap or is it a pretty involved process? I'd like to do it all while the pan's off if possible.
The torque converter anti-drain back valve is located in the transmission cooler return line (outlet pressure). I've seen two types. Some are constructed like a small fuel filter and have rubber hoses on the inlet and outlet tubes. Others have a flare fitting on one end and screw directly onto the cooling line threads while the other end has a nipple and hose.
The valves are usually black in color (some are a carmel or grey color) and are located near the cooling tank in the radiator. They are not difficult to replace.
The valve allows fluid to flow in one direction only so you need to be sure that it is installed correctly. the factory versions are marked for flow direction. I would recommend flushing and filter change before replacing the valve.
A transmission guy where I live told me to take out that anti-drain valve altogether and replace it with a simple high temp/pressure transmission hose, thus increasing flow and doing away with that valve. Is this dangerous to the tranny?
We pulled our trailer with our Chevy on it (total weight of around 9000 lbs) and the Dodge acted great. No hard shifts, no slipping. Thank you again for pointing out the likely cause of its crankiness. Everything seems ok.
It depends. If you live in a moderate to cold climate, I would leave it in. If your in Florida or some other place where the temps are always above 45F or so, I don't think it will harm it. Just be aware that on cold starts the engine should be run for a few minutes to ensure that the torque converter is filled with fluid and change the transmission filter and fluid every 25-60,000 miles depending on your usage.
I'm very glad to hear that everything worked out well. Your type of success story is unfortunately not as common. In most cases where Dexron was used in a Dodge, the owner is never even aware and flips for the repair on their own.
I'm just glad we figured it out before damage was done. That Dodge is a great truck.
On another note, speaking of paying for repairs. We had our Chevy's t-case repaired in October, the shift fork had broken. Well, its back to the same symptoms and the repair shop swears that's not what's wrong. They took the t-case out of the truck along with the rear driveline, when we declined the repairs they put the stuff in the bed of the truck for us to come pick up. Anyway, they are saying its the planetary and front case half that are causing the problems. FRUSTRATING to say the least. The truck was driveable when it got there, its not now. I'll be glad when that truck is gone, its nearly ruined us financially.
This unit is a 'work truck' platform; no carpet, 5.2 v-8, tow pkg, auto.trans. This truck has logged more time in dealerships than on the road. A bogging condition was (& still is) the worst of the worst. Now with 60 k on the clock & visits to (05) Dodge different dealers, it runs better but still bogs when coldt. Replacements have been computer, throttle body, air control valve, TPC, plugs, wires, & cap. Has had trans flush, coil & O2 sensors. The dealers gave me the song/dance about their computer read system being all knowing & that is pure bull. All of these guys guessed & did a lot of unnecessary work to the truck. The EVAP system is still bad. I was told by the last dealer if I had 'stepped up' to a more costly truck, I would have no problem. review ? It rides good & has a good radio...............
I own a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 5.7l V8. I have changed the oil 3 times and each time have noticed, after adding the specified 7 quarts of oil the dipstick never reads in the SAFE zone. There are no leaks and the vehicle is sitting level. If an 8th quart is added the dipstick reads correctly. My question: Has anyone seen this? My quess is one of two things is wrong, either the manual is incorrect and the engine truly needs 8 Qts or the dip stick is the incorrect length. I realize this sounds crazy but I know 3 other 2004 owners that see the same issue. I have called the dealer an they have been no help. Anyone out there have any answers.
Are you just letting the old oil drain normally or are you doing something else to remove more of it (pump or jacking the front end up)? Just a guess, but if you are, then since the manual assumes normal oil drainage perhaps you're leaving less oil in the engine than normal?
Every source of mine has told me that the 5.7 Hemi's engine oil capacity is seven quarts. If you've got a true seven quarts in the engine and its on a level surface, I would suspect that you have a oil dipstick that's inaccurate. It's likely too short. I saw this once a 401 Buick many years ago. It can happen. I would ask your dealer to remove a dipstick from another Hemi engine and compare the two for length and mark positions.
Most engine makers specify oil capacity with a new filter. The oil filter can represent up to a 1/2 quart or more of oil. I would be surprised if it were any different for the Hemi.
However, until you can resolve this issue it is far better to be low one quart than to be high one quart.
I've heard that the 47RE should not be idled for any period of time in park.Something about line pressures.My 98 V-10 has 65K and has had no trans. problems.During the summer I pull 10,000 lbs. over Colo.passes and I idle in netural when I leave my workplace to have a smoke.The trannie will more than likely outlast me:)
This maybe be an idea, and hair-brained at that, but how much oil does the filter hold? If you put in 7 quarts with a new, dry oil filter, then that may soak up a 1/2 to a full quart of oil, leaving you with only 6 in the crank case. I have always pre-filled my oil filters before I put them on, so I have never had low levels of oil after I change it.
The 47RE doesn't pump fluid while in Park. If the trans is warm, or the weather is hot, it's not a big deal. When it's very cold, I always crack the key then immediately shift into Neutral during warm-up to get the fluid moving. My parking brake is always set at home because I live in the mounts, and let's just say one side of the truck is several inches lower than the other... see below (taken this past December, I'm standing level)
KCRAM, I think you'll find that all Chrysler automatics pump fluid in park. If you look at a hydraulic schematic of the 47RE you'll see that the only difference between park and neutral is that the parking sprag is engaged in park. The specification for line pressures are the same as well.
In neutral or park line pressure is maintained at the regulator, manual, throttle, and boost valves. Of course, in neutral or park they are all closed and no fluid is moving through most of the valve body and shift circuits.
If line pressure and fluid movement wasn't maintained during park or neutral, the vanes in the torque converter -- which is attached to the engine and rotating -- would produce bubbles through cavitation. This, of course, would be detrimental to the operation of the transmission in a number of ways.
You are correct about the line pressure, and I should clarify/correct my statement. The REs have little issue when hooked to gasoline engines. The 47 hooked to a Cummins was always an exercise in "reaching the limits". Right through the beginning of the 2003s, the Cummins was either fully detuned (12 valve) or electronically detuned (24 valve) because the trans was at its torque limit. The trans was physically the same as what was used with the V10, but the programming of the PCM was definitely different. Idling in Neutral released strain in the driveline and prevented a lot of cold-weather "slamming" from Park until the fluid was at operating temp. I can tell you from 8 winters that whether hill or level, the 47RE is not very happy with full-limit torque right out of the gate, and while the trans cooler is a big help in summer, it doesn't get the trans fluid up to temp in the winter quickly at all unless you're pulling a small building.
Heck, there were days I'd shift from Park to 1st with the p-brake set to really get the fluid going.
Supposedly, the higher torque capacity of the 48RE has made this a non-issue in Cummins Rams - my 2005 should arrive December 04/January 05, so I'll be able to tell right away...
Sometimes I try to keep excessive tech out of my posts and use more understandable terms, and it leads to confusion - my bad
Not being very knowledgeable on diesels, what are the factory torque ratings for the older Cummins and the new version?
In Chrysler parlance the 47RE should be rated at around 700 lbs. ft. of torque. I would think that's enough for the detuned versions of the Cummins. However, the margin probably isn't there, although Ford and GM diesel auto trannys are just about the same for torque rating. I'm guessing that the newest Cummins is rated at or near 675 lbs. ft.
I finally brought my Ram to a BFG dealer . They Road Forced the tires and they were all over the 35 lb Road Force max . After optimizing the wheel/ tire assembly all were brought into spec < 35 lbs ranging from 5 to 31 lbs except the left rear( 51 lbs ) . I took the truck for a highway ride and it is much better but the vibe is still present . I called BFG and they have authorized to replace the left rear tire . Hope that will solve and end this problem.
Well, I changed the fluid and filter with hopes that the tranny wouldn't heat up enough to cut off the O/D anymore, but I might as well have stuck my finger up my butt because it didn't work!!! Now what? Take out the anti-drain back valve? Add a tranny cooler? Tranny rebuild??? Any thoughts??? The transmission doesn't seem to be slipping....at least I can't feel it slipping. Also, when the trans temp light came on last week, it set an engine code of P1740. This particular code is not listed in the Haynes manual. But the OBD scanner said it was a TCC (torque converter clutch) or Overdrive solenoid code. The engine light didn't come on until the trans temp light lit up. It didn't set a code when it just turned the O/D off automatically. What's going on here? I'm not towing and not driving hard!!!
Thanks for the info and comments.The only thing that looks familiar in an auto trannie are the clutch baskets and plates-like in my motorcycles.The rest is all a wonder to me:)
Im a long time edmunds TH member but rarely read the Pickups threads, so I would really appreciate any help you might offer. My cousin is interested in buying the above, a 2003 4.7L 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 with 24,000 miles. The asking price is $21,000. I am not sure about features or model specifics, but from what I've read, it sounds like your typical SLT, nothing fancy.
For anyone who has the time, what are the problem areas that should be paid particular attention to with this truck?
It is being sold by a private owner who is looking for something smaller and less consumptive of fuel. If this car carried Chryslers extended powertrain warranty as a new vehicle, does that transfer to subsequent owners?
I know the Dakota is due for a redesign... but since my cousin really only requires a 6ft bed and "better than jump seats", would a discounted but reasonably priced new Dakota be a better choice?
Thanks very much. If people here prefer to email me directly, thats fine too, my addy is in my profile.
Well, the 47RE properly outfitted can easily handle 700 lb-ft, but with the TC used in the production Rams, it was limited to 450 lb-ft. Until 2000, Rams with the Cummins and automatics were limited to 400 lb-ft (1989-1995, and 420 lb-ft (1996-1999). In 2000, they added programming to the Cummins ECM that downrated the engine during shifts, and were able to use the same 460 lb-ft rating of the Cummins with 5-speed manual. The V10 was rated at either 450 or 440 lb-ft.
The 48RE is eating the 600 lb-ft of the new Cummins engine with no reported issues.
Do you have the tow package that includes the oil cooler?.. (Not sure if it's a standard item).. On my 2500 Hemi, it looks like it would hold .5 - .7 qts of oil...
BTW.. my 03 Ram has 18K on it now. No problems at all.. It's still the best new vehical I've ever owned... I also have a 03 Merc Sable... I like it, but the new 300C looks sweet!!!..
P.S. Anyone that gets the 5.7 in the 2500, make sure you get the 4.10 rear end...
Kcram, thanks for the info. For some reason I was thinking the Cummins of older vintages were rated a little higher than the figures you gave me. But, since I'll be 106 in November I guess my memory is just failing (:>).
Emale sent me a link to a web site of a transmission tech. who reports seeing the output shaft thrust washers wearing, I guess prematurely, from lack of lubrication on diesel 48REs. I inquired around here and either there isn't miles enough on any diesels or its just not happening. In fact our local guy said he hasn't touched a RAM of any type in about four months, and the ones he usually sees are pre-'98s. He did say that he's seen that type of problem on Chrysler automatics, but they usually are extremely high miles or never maintained transmissions.
We purchased a new 2003 2500 Cummins auto CC SB with manual shift on the fly 4wd and trailer towing package last Oct. and are curious about a couple things. We do some sand driving at Padre National Seashore several times a year. Previuosly we have owned Nissan Pathfinders and a Ford 3/4 T 4wd auto with a 460. This Dodge is my first diesel. We have never gotten stuck, and have helped pull a few pick-ups out in our Pathfinder.
We went last week in what was the worst, deepest, softest sand I have had to drive in. It seems that my engine was really working hard in 4wd high. I even had to go into 4 low a couple times and I've never had to do that. What is curious though is that one time I had the pedal nearly floored in 4 high and the tires weren't even spinning. I dropped into 4 low and got moving again. Maybe I'm just not used to this truck, but I expected this powerful diesel engine to not work so hard, or at least to spin tires in 4 high in loose sand. Also, can anyone advise me on when or whether to put the drive select in L2 or L1 while in 4 high, or just to drop into 4 low when the going gets tough?
The other thing I've noticed is that according to the trip computer the mpg have dropped off since purchase. Our initial hwy trips were around 17-18 mpg and now I'm running 14-15, and even less in city. We only have 9000 miles so it's still practically new. Is this what other folks average?
With regard to the fuel consumption, your experience is quite normal with a newly-purchased vehicle. It is possible that this is the result of post delivery syndrome Many if not most people are very easy on a vehicle immediately after delivery. It's a normal human response to machinery, especially by males. However, as you get accustomed to driving your pace picks up and you begin a more normal (for you) driving habit. What you may be seeing is the difference in that easy driving right after you got the truck, to a more moderate or faster-paced driving.
As to the 4WD in sand experience, I don't know if I can give any explanation off the top of my head. Since you stated that this experience was in sand that "was the worst, deepest, softest sand I have had to drive in," you would need something to compare this to in order to render an opinion. It's possible that other vehicles would have had the same or similiar experience.
I've been in mud and snow with a 4WD, but never any sand worth mentioning. Unlike snow or even mud, the higher friction coefficiency and increased loading weight would, I expect, make a fairly big difference.
I once witnessed a four-wheel drive F600 burn out a clutch in about ten minutes while trying to extract itself. This truck had sat for four weeks in mud near up to the axles. Of course, after four weeks the mud had dried and this truck was embedded. I watched as the driver at full throttle try to break the tires loose. Surprisingly, it took a dozen or so "hole-shot" clutch dumps before we saw one tire spin. The engine stalled repeatedly. By the time the humans realized that they'd have to do a little digging, the clutch was history.
Maybe some much more experienced person that I will make a comment on your sand experience.
Thanks for the input. Some of the other beach drivers have told me to lower my tire pressure for sand. I haven't had to do this before, but with a heavier truck they said it will make a big difference.
I am thinking about buying a new Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel with an auto trans. I have bben reading the msg board. One guysaid he was going to buy a 2005 yr mdl instead of a 2004. Is there anything anyone can warn me of about buying a new truck? 2004 or 2005? Any trouble eith the new auto trans? Thank you for any help - cephas
I recently purchased a new 2004 2500HO Diesel with crewcab and Auto Transmission. I have the 3:73 rear axle gear ratio. My problem has been horrible fuel economy. This is my 5th Dodge diesel but my first automatic transmission. I had a 3500 diesel (2001) with 4:10 rear axle. It got better mileage than I have been getting with new vehicle. So far, running empty, 14 to 15 mpg. Pulling 28' gooseneck flatbed I get 8 to 9 mpg when full and 10 to 11 when empty. I have put 9000 miles on it in 6 weeks. What can I do?
I dunno, my '03 jumped up a bit around 15k miles. I'm not getting tremendous mileage with mine either, but it's a 1-ton 4x4 six-speed with 4.10's so I didn't expect it. I get between 8-11mpg pulling between 13,000#-15,000#, usually at 70-75mph. I do very little empty driving so it's hard for me to put an exact number on it. The last time I was empty was a 500 mile trip with 50-60mph headwinds. Running 75mph I got 14mpg for that leg. I've noticed these new Rams are heavier than the previous generation, probably from the added cab size.
Sebring, thanks for the input. My 01 that I traded in was a 1 ton six speed with 4:10's. I got basically the same mileage as what you do. I was just hoping to get better mileage with the newer HO engine and the 3:73 rear axle. Hopefully it will pick up within the next 6 to 10 thousand miles. I pull gooseneck trailers constantly with it.
I am thinking of replaceing my spark plugs .How difficult is this? I have never worked on a overhead cam engine just older engines.Any advice would be helpful. Thanks
It is not a complex job, but there is some preparation that might be considered a little tedious.
The 4.7 uses coil-on-plug, meaning that each spark plug has its own coil. This is easily removed by removing one bolt. Once the coil is out of the way the spark plug is removed in the conventional manner. You will need a deep socket and extention since the plugs are recessed into the cylinder head.
I'm not sure about the RAM version, but on the Dakota you will need to remove the air intake. Marmon clamps are used so removal is very easy. You will likely find it necessary to loosen and move some cooling lines that run across the top of the engine. Use care to avoid breaking the plastic snaps that hold these onto the throttle body.
I purchased a 2004 cummins this year. It is the HO version. It seems to be about the best vehicle i've ever owned. It's just great to drive and I get great gas mileage. 22 hwy and 14 pulling 28 ft 5th wheel. Here is my only complaint so far. I've gotten stuck twice. Both times i was on wet grassy conditions. The tires were sunk down only 2-4 inchs. The rear wheels just kept spinning and couldnt move in either direction. I do not have positive traction and its a two wheel drive. But I've owned several vehicles, trucks cars etc that I've never had this kind of problem with. In fact i traded in a '99 cummins and never had this kind of problem. Do yo think its caused by the higher torque/Hp that these trucks are putting out now days. Also i suspect most of the weight is in the front on these heavy diesels. It just seems like an odd problem I've never had in the past. I'm almost afraid to pull off to the side of the road if it's been raining. Any thoughts on my problem would be apprectiated. Jack
I assume that traction in all other conditions seem normal, so I think this is a case of collective effects. As you noted a diesel has considerable low-end torque and is much more front-end heavier that the eqivalent gas version. I can see were it would be harder to modulate the engagement power to the wheels. There is probably a negative influence from the tires as well, although tire pressure can have an effect too.
My Dakota 2WD with limited slip goes through snow like a 4WD with my 650 lb. ATV on the back. In fact, last year I climbed an ice covered road that a 4WD could not make.
Comments
The tranny mech said he found nothing unusual in the pan or filter, everything looked really good.
Truck seems better, its still harsh shifting, but not as bad as it was and could just be the truck. The slipping seems to be gone. Time will tell I guess. The general manager of the body shop told me to let him know if there are any more problems and they will take it from there.
Hopefully we dodged (no pun intended) the bullet and the truck will be just fine.
On another note......got 13.2 mpg through the hills with it on the way home, best ever. Thought that was awesome mileage since I've yet to see over 17 mpg hwy with my V6 Explorer.
Gotta love a story with a happy ending. Good luck!
Sounds like the gears and TC survived the DexMerc... As they get used to the proper lube, they'll smooth out a bit.
Jolie, I'll keep my fingers croased for ya
kcram
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My somewhat cob-webbed and fragile memory seems to be telling me that in heavy duty versions of Fords and GMs the automatics shift with a "crispness" lacking in the 1/2-ton series. I guess a fellow RAM 3500 owner could give you a better idea if you can find one to test drive yours.
On "RE" series there is a "throttle valve" cable (formerly known as the modulator valve cable) that can cause abrupt shifts if out of adjustment. They are easy to adjust.
Since Dexron was used for a period of time it is possible that the kickdown band (or front band) is out of adjustment from being incorrectly lubricated, or the kickdown band accumulator is stuck closed from excessively dirty ATF. On Chryslers the kickdown band adjustment can be performed from outside the transmission case and is relatively easy to access. I've seen an experienced transmission tech. do one in five minutes on a lift. A inch-pound torque wrench is required.
By the way, I hope they got all of that Dexron out for you.
Best regards,
Dusty
If I had driven and/or ridden in the truck prior to this I would know what was normal, but unfortunatly during its steering gear box problem time I avoided the truck like the plague.
I haven't had a chance to ask my husband what he thought, he drove it to work this morning. They have been on a hazmat emergency all day, so his time to talk is very short.
BTW, don't pour hydrochloric acid down the drain, makes for a not so nice mess.
The fluid flow problem was resolved in a number of ways, including a significant increase to flow rate in the '98 model year via a major upgrade. The problem was exacerbated by operation in overdrive in extremely cold temperatures. The half-ton 360 V8 models in 4x4 where the most susceptible because these where used a lot for snowplowing. Also, many people used overdrive during heavy loads when they should not have. Chrysler now defeatures entry into overdrive until the transmission reaches a certain temperature, and PCM reprogramming allows earlier downshifts and torque converter unlock to prevent fluid flow problems at low RPMs.
The shift solenoids were probably even more the problem. Intermittent operation or complete failure was due to the solenoid core becoming magnetized over time causing the device to become frozen in one position. Solenoid packs have new ceramic core solenoids that won't magnetize. The electrical wiring to the solenoid pack was not well protected on earlier models and they were prone to developing bad connections. This has been fixed, too.
Emale has included a link to a site that contends that the 47RE is lacking in lubrication to the rear thrust washer. This may in fact be true. However, a polling of the transmission technicians around here seems to indicate that this transmission is very robust. In addition, this may only be applicable to the 47RE diesel version. My sources indicate that with the gas models the 47RE enjoys long and trouble free life.
The new 545RFE transmission used on the RAM with the 4.7 and Hemi motors has a reputation for being almost indestructable. Complete failures are extremely rare and complaints are very few.
Anecdotal reports from third parties (I know a guy who knows a guy who had a Dodge.....) are often based on incorrect, inaccurate, or completely false information. Having a Ford or Chevy guy meanmouth Dodge transmissions may be an excercise in prurient self-fulfillment.
My advice to you is to check out your local transmission shops for a month or two and take notice of what you see coming in for transmission work. I think you will be very surprised!!!
Best regards,
In VSP's case his vintage 360cid 4x4 is probably a 46RE, the 47RE's littler brother. These usually have an in-line anti-drain back valve in the cooling return line. The purpose is to prevent transmission fluid from siphoning out of the torque converter after the vehicle has been shut down. In colder weather with the cooling down of the contracting ATF overnight, the torque converter can be partially drained. On restart, the fluid being harder to pump because of its temperature, the torque converter is not completely full when the driver places the transmission into gear.
At vehicle launch with an absence of the correct amount of fluid the torque converter is still filling causing a pressure drop in the clutches. This causes premature wear of the facings and loads up the fluid with clutch facing material. This material then begins to clog the anti-drain back valve. This can cause overheating of the transmission.
Some independent transmission repair facilities will remove this valve at rebuild. While this will probably prevent a repeat occurence in the same manner, cold weather will still cause siphoning of the torque converter and the comensurate clutch wear.
Although it can cause a partial to full blockage of fluid flow when the fluid is dirty, this valve should be maintained in the system. If the Chrysler service interval is followed neither a blocked anti-drain back valve or dirty fluid should be a problem. If the maintenance history of the vehicle is unknown, I would advise a complete flush of the ATF, a new transmission filter, and a anti-drain back valve replacement.
Best regards,
Dusty
edmunds will not allow that link i posted and thus deleted the post...and the link was about the 48RE and not the 47RE. if anyone wants to see the link just email me...
as per the 45RFE...i understand it has 727/a5xx mechanicals and a604 electronics/controls. and like dusty said is seems to be a hearty unit...there has to be some out there with tons o miles since it's been out since late '98.
Unless a body shop puts the wrong fluid in. ;-) Sorry, couldn't resist. We will be towing a big trailer tomorrow with the Dodge, so should give us a good idea if something is wrong or not.
On another note, the guy who did this to our truck was fired from the body shop on Monday.
The valves are usually black in color (some are a carmel or grey color) and are located near the cooling tank in the radiator. They are not difficult to replace.
The valve allows fluid to flow in one direction only so you need to be sure that it is installed correctly. the factory versions are marked for flow direction. I would recommend flushing and filter change before replacing the valve.
Best regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Continued good luck.
Bests,
Dusty
On another note, speaking of paying for repairs. We had our Chevy's t-case repaired in October, the shift fork had broken. Well, its back to the same symptoms and the repair shop swears that's not what's wrong. They took the t-case out of the truck along with the rear driveline, when we declined the repairs they put the stuff in the bed of the truck for us to come pick up. Anyway, they are saying its the planetary and front case half that are causing the problems. FRUSTRATING to say the least. The truck was driveable when it got there, its not now. I'll be glad when that truck is gone, its nearly ruined us financially.
Most engine makers specify oil capacity with a new filter. The oil filter can represent up to a 1/2 quart or more of oil. I would be surprised if it were any different for the Hemi.
However, until you can resolve this issue it is far better to be low one quart than to be high one quart.
Let us know how this is resolved.
Best regards,
Dusty
kcram
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I think you'll find that all Chrysler automatics pump fluid in park. If you look at a hydraulic schematic of the 47RE you'll see that the only difference between park and neutral is that the parking sprag is engaged in park. The specification for line pressures are the same as well.
In neutral or park line pressure is maintained at the regulator, manual, throttle, and boost valves. Of course, in neutral or park they are all closed and no fluid is moving through most of the valve body and shift circuits.
If line pressure and fluid movement wasn't maintained during park or neutral, the vanes in the torque converter -- which is attached to the engine and rotating -- would produce bubbles through cavitation. This, of course, would be detrimental to the operation of the transmission in a number of ways.
Best regards,
Dusty
You are correct about the line pressure, and I should clarify/correct my statement. The REs have little issue when hooked to gasoline engines. The 47 hooked to a Cummins was always an exercise in "reaching the limits". Right through the beginning of the 2003s, the Cummins was either fully detuned (12 valve) or electronically detuned (24 valve) because the trans was at its torque limit. The trans was physically the same as what was used with the V10, but the programming of the PCM was definitely different. Idling in Neutral released strain in the driveline and prevented a lot of cold-weather "slamming" from Park until the fluid was at operating temp. I can tell you from 8 winters that whether hill or level, the 47RE is not very happy with full-limit torque right out of the gate, and while the trans cooler is a big help in summer, it doesn't get the trans fluid up to temp in the winter quickly at all unless you're pulling a small building.
Heck, there were days I'd shift from Park to 1st with the p-brake set to really get the fluid going.
Supposedly, the higher torque capacity of the 48RE has made this a non-issue in Cummins Rams - my 2005 should arrive December 04/January 05, so I'll be able to tell right away...
Sometimes I try to keep excessive tech out of my posts and use more understandable terms, and it leads to confusion - my bad
kcram
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In Chrysler parlance the 47RE should be rated at around 700 lbs. ft. of torque. I would think that's enough for the detuned versions of the Cummins. However, the margin probably isn't there, although Ford and GM diesel auto trannys are just about the same for torque rating. I'm guessing that the newest Cummins is rated at or near 675 lbs. ft.
Bests,
Dusty
Im a long time edmunds TH member but rarely read the Pickups threads, so I would really appreciate any help you might offer. My cousin is interested in buying the above, a 2003 4.7L 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 with 24,000 miles. The asking price is $21,000. I am not sure about features or model specifics, but from what I've read, it sounds like your typical SLT, nothing fancy.
For anyone who has the time, what are the problem areas that should be paid particular attention to with this truck?
It is being sold by a private owner who is looking for something smaller and less consumptive of fuel. If this car carried Chryslers extended powertrain warranty as a new vehicle, does that transfer to subsequent owners?
I know the Dakota is due for a redesign... but since my cousin really only requires a 6ft bed and "better than jump seats", would a discounted but reasonably priced new Dakota be a better choice?
Thanks very much. If people here prefer to email me directly, thats fine too, my addy is in my profile.
~alpha
The 48RE is eating the 600 lb-ft of the new Cummins engine with no reported issues.
kcram
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BTW.. my 03 Ram has 18K on it now. No problems at all.. It's still the best new vehical I've ever owned... I also have a 03 Merc Sable... I like it, but the new 300C looks sweet!!!..
P.S. Anyone that gets the 5.7 in the 2500, make sure you get the 4.10 rear end...
Emale sent me a link to a web site of a transmission tech. who reports seeing the output shaft thrust washers wearing, I guess prematurely, from lack of lubrication on diesel 48REs. I inquired around here and either there isn't miles enough on any diesels or its just not happening. In fact our local guy said he hasn't touched a RAM of any type in about four months, and the ones he usually sees are pre-'98s. He did say that he's seen that type of problem on Chrysler automatics, but they usually are extremely high miles or never maintained transmissions.
Bests,
Dusty
i sent you that link...
We went last week in what was the worst, deepest, softest sand I have had to drive in. It seems that my engine was really working hard in 4wd high. I even had to go into 4 low a couple times and I've never had to do that. What is curious though is that one time I had the pedal nearly floored in 4 high and the tires weren't even spinning. I dropped into 4 low and got moving again. Maybe I'm just not used to this truck, but I expected this powerful diesel engine to not work so hard, or at least to spin tires in 4 high in loose sand. Also, can anyone advise me on when or whether to put the drive select in L2 or L1 while in 4 high, or just to drop into 4 low when the going gets tough?
The other thing I've noticed is that according to the trip computer the mpg have dropped off since purchase. Our initial hwy trips were around 17-18 mpg and now I'm running 14-15, and even less in city. We only have 9000 miles so it's still practically new. Is this what other folks average?
I would really appreciate any comments.
With regard to the fuel consumption, your experience is quite normal with a newly-purchased vehicle. It is possible that this is the result of post delivery syndrome Many if not most people are very easy on a vehicle immediately after delivery. It's a normal human response to machinery, especially by males. However, as you get accustomed to driving your pace picks up and you begin a more normal (for you) driving habit. What you may be seeing is the difference in that easy driving right after you got the truck, to a more moderate or faster-paced driving.
As to the 4WD in sand experience, I don't know if I can give any explanation off the top of my head. Since you stated that this experience was in sand that "was the worst, deepest, softest sand I have had to drive in," you would need something to compare this to in order to render an opinion. It's possible that other vehicles would have had the same or similiar experience.
I've been in mud and snow with a 4WD, but never any sand worth mentioning. Unlike snow or even mud, the higher friction coefficiency and increased loading weight would, I expect, make a fairly big difference.
I once witnessed a four-wheel drive F600 burn out a clutch in about ten minutes while trying to extract itself. This truck had sat for four weeks in mud near up to the axles. Of course, after four weeks the mud had dried and this truck was embedded. I watched as the driver at full throttle try to break the tires loose. Surprisingly, it took a dozen or so "hole-shot" clutch dumps before we saw one tire spin. The engine stalled repeatedly. By the time the humans realized that they'd have to do a little digging, the clutch was history.
Maybe some much more experienced person that I will make a comment on your sand experience.
Best regards,
Dusty
John
I am thinking about buying a new Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel with an auto trans. I have bben reading the msg board. One guysaid he was going to buy a 2005 yr mdl instead of a 2004. Is there anything anyone can warn me of about buying a new truck? 2004 or 2005? Any trouble eith the new auto trans? Thank you for any help - cephas
The 4.7 uses coil-on-plug, meaning that each spark plug has its own coil. This is easily removed by removing one bolt. Once the coil is out of the way the spark plug is removed in the conventional manner. You will need a deep socket and extention since the plugs are recessed into the cylinder head.
I'm not sure about the RAM version, but on the Dakota you will need to remove the air intake. Marmon clamps are used so removal is very easy. You will likely find it necessary to loosen and move some cooling lines that run across the top of the engine. Use care to avoid breaking the plastic snaps that hold these onto the throttle body.
Best regards,
Dusty
Here is my only complaint so far. I've gotten stuck twice. Both times i was on wet grassy conditions. The tires were sunk down only 2-4 inchs. The rear wheels just kept spinning and couldnt move in either direction. I do not have positive traction and its a two wheel drive. But I've owned several vehicles, trucks cars etc that I've never had this kind of problem with. In fact i traded in a '99 cummins and never had this kind of problem. Do yo think its caused by the higher torque/Hp that these trucks are putting out now days. Also i suspect most of the weight is in the front on these heavy diesels. It just seems like an odd problem I've never had in the past. I'm almost afraid to pull off to the side of the road if it's been raining. Any thoughts on my problem would be apprectiated.
Jack
I assume that traction in all other conditions seem normal, so I think this is a case of collective effects. As you noted a diesel has considerable low-end torque and is much more front-end heavier that the eqivalent gas version. I can see were it would be harder to modulate the engagement power to the wheels. There is probably a negative influence from the tires as well, although tire pressure can have an effect too.
My Dakota 2WD with limited slip goes through snow like a 4WD with my 650 lb. ATV on the back. In fact, last year I climbed an ice covered road that a 4WD could not make.
Best regards,
Dusty