Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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  • dylvanadylvana Member Posts: 2
    Thank you times a billion. I not long ago put a set of 02 sensors on so that didn't hit me, but after I read your reply, I went and put the one I took off. (I save them if I replace something before it goes bad) And so far, it hasn't acted up yet! Thanks a million!! I owe you. It feels kinda embarrasing because I am an ASE certified mechanic. Yet I still have to pass engine performance to become a master. I went about this problem with brains and trial and error instead of breaking out the diagnostic equipment and doin' it right. I guess I was hoping it was a loose vacuum line or something caused by something 'other than' work 'I' perfomed LOL! Again, thanks for the info!
  • xvx_katherine_xvx_katherine_ Member Posts: 4
    Glad that we could help. We went thru weeks and weeks as well of pure confusion before we broke down and took it to Dodge. I'm glad you've gotten your truck back!!
    Katherine
  • tygerfarrtygerfarr Member Posts: 1
    I am having trouble with the #7 cylinder not firing and I've changed plugs, wires, dist. cap, etc. I've had 3 different people hook up the diagnostic to it and found 3 different problems. Fixed 3 different problems same results nothing. I was told that if you had a dead cylinder it would dump the extra gas into the exhaust and cause the cat. to clog up. Also, I was told that I might have a pcm problem. Other than the cylinder, I have rough idling, surges or jumping when doing lower speeds, loss of power and bad fuel mileage.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I was told that if you had a dead cylinder it would dump the extra gas into the exhaust and cause the cat. to clog up

    Well, that's true if the cylinder isn't firing because of an electrical problem, but not if the misfire is being caused by a dead injector.

    For a cylinder to fire you need a spark, fuel, and compression. If it has those it will fire, and all are easy to check.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    a dead cylinder should not be a hard thing to figure out. First you do a compression test. If ok, hook up a noid light to the injector plug, see if it's firing. If it is, then you check for spark in that one cylinder. It's got to be one of the three...the compression, the injector (fuel) or the spark.

    You need to find someone who isn't guessing but knows what he's doing.
  • schussschuss Member Posts: 2
    Truck was running great until it sat for about a hour after a 20 mile trip, and it ran for about 5 mins and stopped. It was like someone hit a kill switch, and the engine just stopped and truck rolled to stop. Then it would turn over and almost start...waited 10 mins and it fired off. Drove for about 5 mins more and it stopped again, same thing as before. Turned over for a bit.. nothing, then it fired off and ran really rough and stopped after about a min or two. The engine is not getting a spark, replaced coil last summer, replaced distributer cap and rotor, still no spark at engine. There is spark out of the coil. Not a fuel problem, new pump and filter last summer to. Engine is not seeing any spark. Could be wires?, but all 8 at once? Thanks for any help
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Could be wires?, but all 8 at once?

    Unlikely, but it could be the one wire from the coil to the cap. Could also be the rotor arm or the cap itself. Finally, just because it was replaced last summer doesn't mean the coil can't be bad.
  • schussschuss Member Posts: 2
    Yeah, i got a spark out of the coil when i grounded it, so i think the coild is good. I replaced the cap just the other day (sorry about that is poorly worded). I guess it could be the wires though, i think that is next.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    One way to check spark plug wires is to run the engine at night, in complete darkness. Look for sparks arking from the wires to the engine. Also check the ends of the wires, where they fit on the plugs and the distributor. They should be clean and tight.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    yesterday...2004 Ram 1500 Hemi 2WD...she was in a McD's parking lot, only moving forward about 3-5 mph, and she suddenly lost power steering and the dash engine light and parking brake light came on flashing...the engine was running fine, car did not stumble or stall, but she had to use all of her strength to turn the steering wheel...once she was out of the way, she stopped, turned the engine off, turned it back on, everything was fine...vehicle never did this before, but loss of power steering made it quite stressful/difficult to steer, esp at very low speed...

    I took it to local shop (not Dodge dealer), they hooked up their computer to look for some diagnostic code, but there was no code, so nothing could be diagnosed, at least at this time...

    I thought she might have been up against a curb, which would make it difficult to turn the wheel, but she was in the middle of the parking lot, and that would not explain why dash lights would come on...

    Has anyone experienced this situation, and could you resolve it???...she is obviously quite afraid that it might happen again...thanks...
  • ram250vanram250van Member Posts: 4
    Did you ever get to bottom of this. I have same issue and have been searching but cannot come up with fix
  • ram250vanram250van Member Posts: 4
    Did you ever get this resolved. I have same issue and cannot find answer
  • soho033soho033 Member Posts: 1
    Hi; I have a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 V6, my problem only occurs when i make a left turn. My truck loses power (I can rev it up to no avail) so I back off the gas and there's a hard bump ( like bumper cars) then it will accelerate! Is this a fuel pump problem? Seems odd that it only happens when I make a left turn. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If you can rev it up it's not a fuel starvation problem, most likely transmission. Sounds like you're low on fluid and it's maybe not picking it up as you corner.
  • scarescare Member Posts: 2
    I have been looking though the archives and see that I am not alone in my transmission problems. Fortunately, I have read posts that suggest that my problem may not be as expensive to fix as I feared, but I will post my issues here to get your opinions:

    96 SLT Laramie 5.9 automatic with 200k mi. on it.

    Does not like to shift into reverse or what feels like 3rd gear. Going forward it revs to about 3500 almost right away once I put it in gear and give it gas, then stays around 3500 while going 30-40 mph, but I never feel a shift once I get to that point (never kicks down), so I don't try to go any faster (it used to get up to 70 mph faster than I could believe). When I try to shift into reverse, it often does nothing at all regardless of how may times I try to shift, turn the truck off/on, etc. On the times it does shift into reverse, it does so with a big kind of 'clunk' and then jumps into gear. I have noticed that it takes longer to get to this relatively usable condition when the weather is cold.

    What are the things that I should be looking for? Is this something that I can do myself (with 200k, I don't want to spend too much)?
  • titanium29titanium29 Member Posts: 38
    Hey Mr. D.
    I have a new '06 3500 with the Cummins 5.9HO 610 Diesel. In the past, I have here and there done my own oil changes on my gasoline engines, partly due to costs, but just as often for convenience.

    In regard to this new diesel truck, would you. A. Recommend strongly that I have the dealer do the oil changes out of warranty concerns and get used to the cost. B. Make sure I use Mopar oil filters and recommend I use ???? brand oil, making sure I ??? (such as fill the new filter with oil to protect my turbo), or C. maybe another option like a lube/oil specialty shop?

    Also, it LOOKS like changing the fuel filter is a straight forward job by a drop in cartridge in the housing that I can drain water from the filter at. True?

    And last but not least. Is a 5000 mile (nice, round, easy to remember) oil change interval a good one, or wasteful by far? I tow 2-3 times a year for < 100 miles each time.

    Thanks.
  • scarescare Member Posts: 2
    I forgot to mention, the truck is 4x4.
    I also put an OBD-II scaner on it and pulled these codes:
    P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfuction
    P0783 3-4 Shift Malfunction
    P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

    I doubt that the misfire has anything to do with it, but 740 & 783 definitely do. Does a 740 code mean it could be an electronic problem that does not require cracking the transmission open for? And is it indicative of a common, specific error when 740 and 783 are found together?
  • ram250vanram250van Member Posts: 4
    I was attempting to start my RAM. when you turn the key your test lights normally come on... well my check engine light did not come on. If I leave the key in the on position, I will hear a clicking coming from relays behind the master cylinder. Clicking wiil start out faint and slow and get increasingly faster and louder until check engine light comes on and then goes out. At this point turn the key and it starts.

    This is only a cold weather issue. In summer, starts up with no problem. As it get colder, the time it takes for the relays to begin clicking and finally finish clicking so I can start gets increasingly longer. I have waited up to 1hr for clicking to start and have had clicking last for more than 10 minutes before it stops.

    It also does not matter weather engine is hot or cold. On cold days, I can turn engine off hot and 5 minutes later, it will not start till it goes through the clicking motion.

    i have already replaced the relays themselves with no change.

    so does anyone have any idea why this is happening any clue at all would be helpful as this vehicle is my work vehicle and it has to carry me around the midwest HELP!
    Replies to this message:
  • loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    Not speaking for Mr. D, but my personal experience with my '03 CTD Ram is to have all oil changes done by the dealer. I wouldn't go to a Jiffy Lube type shop unless they were endorsed by Cummins. Supposedly the fuel filter change IS a quick drop-in but I have always had the dealer do it. Finally, I think 5,000 miles is about right, esp. with light towing. There's almost no way to meet the requirements for the 7,500 mile interval schedule, and I think 3,500 is too often.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    First thing I'd check is the battery and cables. Sounds like you don't have enough juice.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • ram250vanram250van Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply, already thought of that. It cranks strong so I would disagree. I have also connected a charger to it an that made no difference. I was told by another to check grounds. They said that the relay is given positive and complets the circuit by finding ground. I check and see no loose or disconnected grounds. This morning, key has been in start position for an hour and a half and still nothing. It seems that the system cannot complete its self test and give ok to start until this relay makes connection. It is very strange to me that the cold has anything to do with electrical except for a battery.
  • azramazram Member Posts: 2
    I have an '01 Ram 1500, 4x4, 5.9l that requires replacement of the rear-end. The axle that I would like to use in place of the original is out of an '05 Ram 1500, 2WD. The '01 has rear drum brakes and the '05 has rear disc brakes. If at all possible I prefer to adapt to the disc system on the newer axle. I realize that I will have to modify the brake lines to hook up to the new callipers, but I'm unsure of what else will need to be modified or replaced to accomodate this change. Any help and ideas are greatly appreciated. I am planning on beginning this axle replacement next weekend.
    ~Az~
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I've never done that particular swap (I doubt that many have), but generally when going from drums to discs at the rear you'll need to change the proportioning valve, emergency brake hookup, and possibly the master cylinder.

    Make sure also that any ABS/speed sensor in the axle housing is compatible with what you have at the moment.

    Finally, as you've a 4x4, it's critically important that the new axle has the same final drive ratio as your old one.
  • azramazram Member Posts: 2
    Thx for responding... I'm hoping not to have to change the master cylinder, as they visually appear to be very similar. Ive been told that the ebrake shouldnt pose much of a challenge and that the ABS sensor will need to be switched from the old axle to the new one. That leaves the proportioning valve. I've heard that this might need to be modified to accomodate the increased pressure required by the disc system, but i've little idea how to go about this. On some vehicles it is as simple as removing the needle valve and spring from the proportioning unit. Not sure if this will work on this switch. As for gearing match between the front and rear, they are slightly different... the new one is 3.95 and the old in 4.10. I rarely use the 4x4, so i plan to change out the gearing in the near future and will refrain from using 4x4 in the mean time.
    ~Az~
  • apettyapetty Member Posts: 1
    2002 Dodge ram 1500 quad 4x4, all gauges went out so I called the dealership and the garage told me the price off the top of his head. 550 plus installation and the truck sits for three weeks while they order the dash from the factory. If they have done so many full replacements on this then there should be a friggin recall. Diamler says there isn't a problem but if you look through the message boards you will notice a real problem going on. Needless to say, I need to know if there is an easier solution to fixing this problem. Is there something that I should try first or just buck up and fork out the money and let this moron dealership keep my truck. Don't like this dealership at all. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks in advance
  • ramthunderramthunder Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 2500 Hemi. It has 46000 miles and I have a underbody vibration. I took it to the dealer and they said I had a blown baffle in my muffler. I went out and got a Magna flow muffler and I still have the vibration. It only happens when driving around 2000 - 3000 RPM. When I have it in idle and rev it up I get no vibration. I checked my underbody heat shields and they are all tight. Does anyone have any idea's what it might be?
  • pegleg95pegleg95 Member Posts: 3
    I have a problem for all you experts out there. My 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.2L Auto) got a check engine light two days ago. It had been fine the day before. In drive, the truck starts slowly (no power, torque converter?) up to about 10-15 mph and then drives normally there after. If I romp on it, I get power but it tachs out 1st gear until I let off the gas and then shifts into 2nd for a very short time. If I'm not going fast enough when I let off to force it into 2nd it will shift back into 1st at a very high RPM. After romping on it, it will behave this way (tach out 1st, short shift in 2nd, etc.) until I shut it off and restart it and then it goes back to having no power at takeoff but otherwise behaving normally. I had the code scanned at AutoZone and they got a "Manufacturer's Code". The guy there tried to reset it but it just came back. He then told me to unhook the battery and hold the cables together for thirty seconds and it should reset and run properly. I don't think he knew what he was talking about because even though this did reset it it just came back within 10 secs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I had the code scanned at AutoZone and they got a "Manufacturer's Code".

    A 'manufacturer's code' is a non-standard OBDII code and so cannot be identified by a generic OBDII reader.

    Any code is there to notify you of a problem.........the code itself isn't the problem. Resetting the computer to remove the code doesn't fix anything, as you've found out. You have to fix the problem that caused the code, then do a reset to remove it.

    You need to have the code read by a dealership, or an independent shop that's a Dodge specialist.
  • bruce31bruce31 Member Posts: 1
    Last night for some reason my keyless entry quit working and when I put the key in the ignition, the truck will not turn over and the anti theft light starts blinking and keeps blinking for several minutes after you take the key out of the ignition. Do I have a problem with the
    anti-theft system
  • pegleg95pegleg95 Member Posts: 3
    Just a little more info. I drove it tonight and noticed that the lack of power at take off is due to the fact that it is starting out in 2nd gear. If you manually shift it into 1st it will start out in 1st and you can shift through all the other gears and everything seems OK (still have CHECK ENGINE light though).The only other thing that seems strange is that when manually shifting through the gears, it will not shift into 2nd at the 2 position but will once you get to D.

    FYI - I knew that the kid at AutoZone was a moron but was willing to try anything because I am trying to sell this truck and don't want to sink a bunch of money into it first. I should have traded it in a week ago when I was at the dealer (and the truck was still trouble free) but I thought I could do better.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    There is a way for you to retrieve codes manually. Get pencil and paper in case there are more than one code. Put the key in the ignition and cycle it in the following order.On-off-on-off-on, but do not start the engine. Code(s)will appear in the trip odometer.
    Go to a dealership and ask what the codes are.
  • cpennisoncpennison Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Ram 1500. My check engine light came on so I went out and bought one of those handy dandy readers. When I checked for codes it came up with P1491 which equates to Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit. I take it the Rad is for Radiator. But in looking online I came across this web page that said…

    &#147;An occasional problem on this vehicle is the failure of the Condenser Fan Motor (4.7 VIN N and 5.9L VIN Z engines only). This problem may cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate.&#148; This came off of autos.msn.com vehicle ratings page.

    I have had trouble with my AC the last few warm days that we have had. When the engine is idling the vent blows warm moist air, so I am thinking that I need a new compressor. My question is could the failure of the condenser fan motor or the compressor cause the P1491 code. :confuse:

    Thanks for the help.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    When the engine is idling the vent blows warm moist air, so I am thinking that I need a new compressor.

    Why assume the worst? It could just be low refrigerant.
  • cpennisoncpennison Member Posts: 2
    Why assume the worst? It could just be low refrigerant.

    I have already checked the refrigerant and it is fine. Only at first was I assuming that the compressor was going. Then the check engine light came on with a P1491 code (Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit) and I was wondering if that could case the AC too work only during normal driving. There was also the quote about the condenser fan motor, and I was wondering if that would also cause a P1491 code.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    P1491 refers to the compressor fan relay. Check the relay and fuse #39
  • dancingtwodancingtwo Member Posts: 3
    Hope someone can help with this one. I have an 01 1500 series with overdrive and transmission always appears to want to take off in third gear. The code comes up on the scanner as a P-1762 govenor pressure sensor.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
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