I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 360 5.9L with 102,000 miles on it. My problem is that it has no power when you stomp down on the pedal. I have changed plugs, wires, o2 sensors, throttle postioning sensor, and coil pack. I am at a loss. Anybody with any thoughts on the matter?
The NO BUS message means your dash has lost communication with the main computer (as opposed to a lack of nearby Greyhound service). It has probably generated a trouble code in the computer, and that should help pinpoin the problem.
Well, it could be a number of things. Does this engine start okay and run fine for a short while, then become very weak? If so, I would suspect a defective catalytic converter.
If this engine starts hard, idles poorly and/or runs rough most of the time, it might be a bad intake manifold gasket.
I'm not sure, but on Dakotas when a "No Bus" message is displayed, a diagnostic trouble code cannot be retrieved via the ignition key diagnostic entry method. This might require an OBD-II reader in order to obtain the problem code.
I have the EXACT same problem with my 99 Ram 4x4. I took the truck to an auto parts store and had them put the code computer on it and there was no trouble codes stored or reported. I don't think the check engine light is actually on for a problem, but just on with the rest of the lights. The truck will still run.
This seems to be a pretty popular problem, has anyone got any other ideas? I'm going to search the web and dealers for any recall notices about the problem. Does anyone know where to go to view any recalls on your vehicle? If anyone would please respond it would be appreciated.
What is the difference between an OBD-II and any other code reader? Does it still plug into the port under the dash? How can you get this checked as you seem to know more about it than most?
OBDII isn't a brand, it's a standard, in fact the second iteration of OBDI. Retained codes can be read and reset by many makes of inexpensive OBDII compliant readers. However, for interactive diagnostics and system manipulation, more expensive and complex scan tools are needed.
I can't speak for your Dodge but it's a common problem on Jeeps. Symptoms are the same and a trouble code isn't set. The cause is poor contact being made in the multiple connection block on the back of the instrument panel. The cure is a tweaking of the connection pins and the application to the sockets of dielectric grease.
I own a 2004 4x4 2500 and the steering box has failed twice in 52,000 miles. The first one was replaced under the warranty I was told that something was wearing out. This second time I had the steering box rebuilded by Benchworks Steering in Scotsdale and they told me that the backlash adjustment was overthighten. Seems to me that the adjustment screw overthighten on its own since it has not been touched. The steering did not align after a turn. It was fine for 25,000 miles but in the last 2 weeks the problem developed little by little to the point it was hard to drive on the highway. Now it drives like new. I still do not know why that happened.
dont forget OBD2 is for 95 and newer vehicles I got mine from walmart for 100.00 and it has already saved a lot of cash its only good if your engine light is on.If your engine light is on you should get the proper codes and solutions that come in the guide with the code reader
I have a lamp out message on my dash. Neither of my rear brake lights work, however the brake light near the roof on the back of the cab does work.
The bulbs are good. I have checked all the fuses and the relays...they are good. I also checked the brake plunger (not the right name) behind the brake petal, its not stuck.
When I intital check my fuses I had one rear right fuse blown and I replaced it. I believe this blew when I connect my boat trailer lights...which are not working either..
Any thoughts or directions on some of the next steps- Thank you very much in advance!
I've no idea................and if you're referring to your last post, you were asking if you should fit smaller tires on the rear. Can't think why that would be a good idea either.
I have a question. I have a Dodge 2500 4x4 diesel 5 speed. It runs good most of the time when Iam not pulling anything in town it is fine if I get on the interstate it will start loosing speed and when the RPM gets to just under 2 you have to gear down then it will pick up for a few minutes and then you can feel it kick back out and you have to keep shifting from 4 to 5 to keep speed and power up. If you are pulling a trailer it is even worse...any info would be great was just kinda wanting to get an idea if it sounded like something major or minor. Fuel filter has been replaced also.
Yesterday I noticed that the A/C was blowing warm air while I was setting still, Once I reached a speed of about 25 the air became cold again. This morning I noticed the Engine light on and ran the Dio. which came back as p1491 I replaced the relay and nothing has changed. Going to the dealer($$$$) to have them check it Thursday.
Anybody else seen this problem and what did you do? Hoping to find something out before I am at the dealer.
If the truck sat for two years with no fuel stabilizer in the gas, it is quite possible that there is a lot of warnish left in the gas tank that got contaminated the fuel system again. Suggest you remove the gas tank, completely clean it, and then clean the rest aof the fuel system. May have to disassemble the carb again and clean it. Did you remove and clean all the carburetor jets, and blow out passages with compressed air when rebuilding the carburetor? Is the carb float adjusted correctly?
I would also make sure that the carburetor is properly adjusted. Does it have any electrical components, such as trhottle position sensor, or fuel mixture adjusting solenoid? Malfunction of one of these can also cause problems. Getting a rebuilt carb if nothing else works may be what it needs.
I had a similar issue with my car. One of the electric fans was not working at at idle the coolant temperature went up and the A/C system shut down. At higher speeds, the cooling was more efifcient, and A/C worked again. If you do not have elctric fan9s), your fan clutch may not be engaging.
The most likely reason is improper toe setting (parallelism of the wheels). Toe is set by adjusting the tie rods. Another alignment parameter that can cause tire scrubbing on the edges is camber. This is the angle the wheels make with the vertical plane.
Some notes on the toe adjustment: Typically manufacturers recommend slightly positive toe adjustment, something like 0.05 degrees. Positive toe means the front wheels are pointing slightly inward in the front of the vehicle. negative toe means wheels poiting outward in the front of the vehicle. Ideally, toe setting should be equal numbers, either both positive, or negative. The range is pretty broad, say -0.1 to 0.15 degrees. If you had one wheel set to -0.1 and the other to 0.15 degrees, your tires would wear very quickly on the outside edge. The ideal toe in most cases is about +0.05 degrees on both wheels. Of course, each manufacturer has their preferred nominal setting and acceptable range.
The most likely reason is improper toe setting (parallelism of the wheels).
I'd like to politely disagree.
The problem was excessive wear on the edge of one tire. Because of the inherent self centering action of the steering, the final toe setting is always the average of the two. A toe setting that's far enough out of range to cause tire wear will always cause that wear to be exhibited on both tires.
I have a 2006 ram 3500 4x4 4dr with the cummins engine at 6000 miles the engine started knocking at idle it know has 10000 miles on it and the engine is still knocking at idle the longer you drive it the worse it gets. it has been in for this three times but it still knocks and the dealer has no idea what is causing it they have done numerous test requested by cummins and they replaced the high pressure injection pump but it did not help. it runs strong and pulls strong but sounds like you know what ideling. Any ideas woulod be greatly appreciated
What does it sound like again? My '03 engine makes normal diesel sounds - what's different in your '06? Have you listened to a different broken-in '06 CTD to tell that there's a different noise from yours?
I have a 97 Dodge Ram 1500 with the big V8 that just started to act slower than usual on the shifting of gears, letting up on the gas seems to help.
The cruise control was engaged the other day which caused the engine to sound like it was being reved up and the rpms to jump causing me to immediately disengage the cruise control.
Changed the tranny fluid and filter but that didn't seem to help.
Check engine light came on previous to this but now is off.
Really hoping this does not require a trip to the shop, as bad experiences in the past with mechanics scare me.
Keep us informed as to what your dealer or mechanic did to correct the problem. This code is common in cold weather climates, mine and two other 4.7 liter engines happened on the same day. I would like to know what caused a p1491 code in the summer.
This is a repeat of a message posted in another forum on this website. I'm putting it here also in hopes of getting a larger group of readers.
I have an 04 HO Cummins with 16K miles. It has a slight ticking sound. The dealer listened to it and said it was one or more sticking injectors. They are going to fix it this coming Friday. My question is: has this damaged my engine? They claim the problem gets worse as time goes on - eventually sticking wide open and melting a hole in the piston. Besides the ticking, they also look for fuel in the crank case - which has not happened yet in this case. Any one else see this kind of problem?
I had the same problem on my 2002 Quadcab. At the dealer, the mechanic replaced the fuse for the A/C cooling fan (the one by the radiator. He reset the codes and problem has not occurred since. Mechanic told me that if problem occurred again, it could be the fan motor going out and drawing too many amps, in which case the fan motor would need to be replaced.
I have a 96 Dodge Ram 1500 with 72,000 miles. I recently put a set of 3/4 ton springs in the front end for about 2 1/2 inches of lift. I also put all the ball joints in and had an alignment done. The problem is the front will start to shake a little bit, almost like the front end is rocking back and forth. Sometimes it will come out of it, others it will get worse. Bad enough where I swear the tires are bouncing off the road. Could the bushings in the control arms be wore out. My friend did the same springs in his Dodge and it drives normal. Thanks..
Did you change your tire size, or tread pattern,, bias or radial tire. You may want to check your all your stablizer bar bushings and bolts. Just an idea. I didnt have this problem with my dodge, but experienced this with my 79 ford bronco and it was my bushings and the bolts were worn on the stablizer bar. Remember just an idea. Hope you find it.
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram with a 5.9 and I think the 46RE tranny. I had to have the tranny rebuilt and ever since then when I use the cruise and set it at like 70 and the rpms are at 2000 they will jump to 2300-2400. I took it back to the shop that rebuilt it since it is still under warranty and they told me there was nothing wrong with it. I talked to another mechanic and he told me that it could be the speed sensor. I am debating on whether or not to replace the sensor and try that. If anyone can help me with this delima I would appreciate it.
I think what you describe is fairly normal though I'm surprised you notice it at a temperature as high as 65 F. What is happening is that the pre-heater is cycling to warm the intake air. That continues until the engine gets a bit warmed up. At least that's what someone told me. However I've never heard the clunking noise so you might look into that.
Anybody else have this problem (and live to tell about it)? The steering on my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, diesel 4WD just locked up. I backed out of my driveway with a left turn. I noticed a bit of noise when I turned right to go down the very short street. Turned left on another street and all seemed normal until I tried to straighten it out. The steering locked up and I could not get the wheels back straight! It would turn more to the left, but with "power steering by Armstrong." However I had to call a tow truck to get it out of the middle of the road because it insisted on turning left. A tow truck driver discovered that with the engine off we could turn either way with effort, but with the engine running no right turns are allowed. I am most thankful this happened while I was going slowly, not driving down the freeway.
Ideas? What cause this? Suggestions on how to fix it?
runs rough, looses power, and won't startI have a problem and and it has been happening for awhile(2 months). I have a 95 ram 178,000 miles 5.9. I searched some of the messages and can't find the same exact problem. I had a code 54 lose of power to distributor. The truck will loose power when floored, it will actually start popping through throttle body. It will run fine most of the time, but then you will be going down the road and loose all power again it starts poppin. then it won't start at all times. I can leave it run all day, but if I turn it off. i will be stranded for about 4 hours, when it cools it will start. I have changed the coil, cap, and rotor. The battery turns it just fine. i was told to change the pick-up coil. Does anyone have any advice on this? The distributor is in a really bad place to pull it out, I just don't want to go through the grief.. Need help bad
:mad: I HAVE A 99 1500 SPORT, O.K., HERE WE GO K, THE TRANNY IS MAKING A NOISE WHILE IN GEAR, SOUNDS LIKE ITS COMING APART, WILL JUMP OUT OF GEAR WHEN GOING DOWN THE ROAD AND SOUNDS HORRIBLE WHEN IN GEAR. IN NUETRAL NO NOISE. IF I PUT THE TRANSFER CASE IN NUETRAL, NO NOISE WHILE GOING THROUGH THE GEARS?
I have the same problem with my 1999 Dodge Ram 4 x 4. I checked with Advance auto parts and the speed sensor is bad. I called my mech. and he said just replace the sensor but be sure and get one form the dealer, not an after market sensor. I called the local dealer and the part is a little over $20.00. It is a simple replacement just unscrew and disconnect the old one and put in the new one. The code should clear after a short drive. The sensor is located on the 4 x 4 at the back and lower side of the transmission on the driver's side.
i am trying to rebuild a 85 dodge 1 ton for a frient, he paid a guy 1600, to fix his truck,the guy took the eng,trans ect,i replaced the eng, now i am replacing the trans,i bought one from junk yard,but it dont have torque converter,i am trying to find one,but dont know what trans i have,the # are,4329482/8445/2985/ if any one can help identify this so i can get right torque converter
I recently came across your transmission problem, I have a 99 Dodge ram with the 318ci 2 wheel drive with the exact problem, my transmission speed sensor had gone bad a couple of weeks ago and last week when I went to drive my truck it would not shift out of 1st gear, have you resolved your problem? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
We're having the same issues with our 94 Ram 1500. Everything except the blowing smoke. We've replaced the converter, the wires, the plugs, the whole shabang. As we speak, we are replacing the throttle position sensor. Hopefully, that will fix our idle problem. Have you had any luck with yours? Thanks! Katherine
:sick: :confuse: We have a 1994 Ram 1500 5.9L 360 and we have had nothing but problems with it after a simple at home tune up. Initially, the oil, oil filter, caps, plugs and wires were changed. After finishing up, we got in the truck only to find that the truck (after about 10 minutes of driving) idles horribly, to the point of stalling. There is also a noise coming from the engine that sounds like a vaccume leak. We have checked all of the hoses and to date have replaced the catalytic converter, new spark plugs (again, just to be safe), the throttle positioning sensor, new muffler. We feel like we're pouring money down the drain at this point. I've read here over and over that when the battery starts to get weak, problems may start popping up. We are going tomorrow to have our battery tested. But if anyone has any ideas about what's going on (things that we haven't already done) PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE help. We love our truck, but we're starting to lean towards a Ford Thanks to all Katherine
I'm posting this for my husband who is not a member. He has a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 and occasionally when he turns to the right it makes a loud, one time pop or click. He has taken it to the dealer a couple of times, but they can't duplicate it. It also happens sometimes when we are pulling our 26ft. travel trailer and only happens when he is turning right. Has anyone else had this problem?
Hmmm - truck worked fine before tuneup but not afterwards - have you checked to make sure you put the spark plug wires onto the correct spark plugs? Are you sure the spark plug wires themselves are good? What happened when you put the old spark plug wires back on (if you still have them)? If I'm you I go over the plug wiring diagram very carefully (maybe even get a second diagram to compare to - typos are not unheard of) and check those wires! Good luck!
Are you replacing the parts at random just becuase you think they are defective? This is not a very efficient way to solve anything. Take the truck to a dealer or to an independent repair shop and have it hooked up to a diagnostic computer. It could be something relatively simple. My coworker had a problem with his Ford pickup and spent hundreds of dollars replacing unnecessary parts and the truck still did not run right. Finally, he took it to a Ford dealer, and they found the problem. It cost him $ 90 for the diagnostic fee and $ 60 for the part.
I know, a lot of people are skeptical about taking vehicles to dealers for diagnosis, but as complex as these control systems are, sometimes it is the best alternative. You do not have to pay them to fix the problem, just let them diagnose it for you. then you can buy the right part and fix it yourself.
1995 Dodge Ram Van 3500, 5.2L motor. I would post on the van area but it is pretty much empty and the drivetrain should be the same. In hindsight, the problem has been noticeable for over a year but now that it has manifested itself into being stranded on the side of the road a few times, I need to get this fixed but I hate to go to a mechanic with an intermittent problem. I'm going to assume the symptoms are related so I'll start at the beginning. About 12 months ago, I noticed what I would call hesitation when travelling about 50mph and trying to keep a steady speed when the gas tank was below a quarter tank. Almost a non-event but when slightly pressing the gas at average speed to maintain speed over a rise, I noticed "skipping/hesitation/slight bucking". No problem if you stomped on it, it would go. Only noticeable when easing the accelerator. At the time, it was not a problem so I just made sure the 35 gallon tank didn't get below a quarter tank. Then over time, I noticed the same behavior when the tank got to less than half and so-on. Then, fill up one day on the way home from work and it started hard. Turned over fine but just wouldn't catch. Finally got it going and stop one block from the house to get the mail and turn the van off. Try to start but no go. So, I walk the last block and come back about an our later, it starts up fine and runs great, no problem. At this point it gets a bit hazy. I'm thinking the fuel pump is "going " bad. In hindsight, maybe it is a heat issue. I may have been so focussed on the fuel pump that over the next few weeks when it stalls and won't start, I put 5-10 gallons of gas in the tank to top it off and it starts right up but now I'm having to keep at least three-quarters of a tank in it all the time to keep it running. Finally I break down and replace the fuel pump. Start with five gallons of gas, it starts right up fine on a seventh of a tank. Still not 100% though. A few instances where it would hesitate (even on hard acceleration) and it stalled this past week. I put 10 gallons in and it started up no problem. So, the new fuel pump didn't fix the problem. I've been scouring the web to see if anyone else has the same problem. The battery is less than two years old, the coil measures ok. I know what your thinking but at no time was it ever out of gas. The gauge works and I also verify by resetting miles when I fill up. There are no trouble codes. MAP, O2 and other sensors should throw a trouble code so I'm not sure what to try/test next. First, I was thinking it was a fuel system problem, then I was thinking it was a heat related issue but the last time it quit was less than half a mile from where I started, hardly time enough to get heated up.
jj, i have the same problem with my 2004 ram 1500, with out dual control. the system has different ducts for each side. have not been able to find a good document to dig deeper with. Kevin
Hi. I have been stumped on this problem for a few weeks now. I have a 94 Dodge ram 1500, 318 Y code. I recently had the cat. converter changed and since then the truck has gone haywire. Here is the deal: when it is started, it will drive fine until around 55 or for about 30 secs. (whichever is first) if I decelerate and try and speed up, it will not shift, blow black smoke, and has crappy fuel milage. I changed the fuel pump, IAC motor, and tuned it up and it gets a little better each time. Now the wierd thing is, When it goes fine and reaches 75 on the highway, it will without warning start lossing speed and here comes the hard shifting and black smoke, however, I can put it in N, switch it off, start it back up and put it in D and it is FINE for another Minute or so. Then the Cycle repeats. I had a Bank 1 sensor too rich code, but so far the 02 sen checks out. Could this be VSS or PCM? Any help would be appreciated. The whole switch off then on to temp. correct the problem leads me to a sensor. Please help me!!!!!
we were having the same problem with our 94 1500.. we replaced everything (the cat, the tps, the cap, wires etc) so we finally broke down and took it to the dodge dealership and come to find out, it was the 02 sensor. About 55 dollars and 10 minutes of work later and we have our lovely dodge back! if you need info on how to change it, just send us a message! katherine
Comments
kcram - Pickups Host
If this engine starts hard, idles poorly and/or runs rough most of the time, it might be a bad intake manifold gasket.
A bad fuel pump can also cause a similar symptom.
Good luck,
Dusty
Best regards,
Dusty
I have the EXACT same problem with my 99 Ram 4x4. I took the truck to an auto parts store and had them put the code computer on it and there was no trouble codes stored or reported. I don't think the check engine light is actually on for a problem, but just on with the rest of the lights. The truck will still run.
This seems to be a pretty popular problem, has anyone got any other ideas? I'm going to search the web and dealers for any recall notices about the problem. Does anyone know where to go to view any recalls on your vehicle? If anyone would please respond it would be appreciated.
Regards- RobH
Thanks and Regards, RobH
I still do not know why that happened.
The bulbs are good. I have checked all the fuses and the relays...they are good. I also checked the brake plunger (not the right name) behind the brake petal, its not stuck.
When I intital check my fuses I had one rear right fuse blown and I replaced it. I believe this blew when I connect my boat trailer lights...which are not working either..
Any thoughts or directions on some of the next steps- Thank you very much in advance!
Anybody else seen this problem and what did you do?
I would also make sure that the carburetor is properly adjusted. Does it have any electrical components, such as trhottle position sensor, or fuel mixture adjusting solenoid? Malfunction of one of these can also cause problems. Getting a rebuilt carb if nothing else works may be what it needs.
Some notes on the toe adjustment: Typically manufacturers recommend slightly positive toe adjustment, something like 0.05 degrees. Positive toe means the front wheels are pointing slightly inward in the front of the vehicle. negative toe means wheels poiting outward in the front of the vehicle. Ideally, toe setting should be equal numbers, either both positive, or negative. The range is pretty broad, say -0.1 to 0.15 degrees. If you had one wheel set to -0.1 and the other to 0.15 degrees, your tires would wear very quickly on the outside edge. The ideal toe in most cases is about +0.05 degrees on both wheels. Of course, each manufacturer has their preferred nominal setting and acceptable range.
I'd like to politely disagree.
The problem was excessive wear on the edge of one tire. Because of the inherent self centering action of the steering, the final toe setting is always the average of the two. A toe setting that's far enough out of range to cause tire wear will always cause that wear to be exhibited on both tires.
The cruise control was engaged the other day which caused the engine to sound like it was being reved up and the rpms to jump causing me to immediately disengage the cruise control.
Changed the tranny fluid and filter but that didn't seem to help.
Check engine light came on previous to this but now is off.
Really hoping this does not require a trip to the shop, as bad experiences in the past with mechanics scare me.
Thanks for any and all help
thanks
I have an 04 HO Cummins with 16K miles. It has a slight ticking sound. The dealer listened to it and said it was one or more sticking injectors. They are going to fix it this coming Friday. My question is: has this damaged my engine? They claim the problem gets worse as time goes on - eventually sticking wide open and melting a hole in the piston. Besides the ticking, they also look for fuel in the crank case - which has not happened yet in this case. Any one else see this kind of problem?
Ideas? What cause this? Suggestions on how to fix it?
Thanks!
Katherine
Thanks to all
Katherine
I know, a lot of people are skeptical about taking vehicles to dealers for diagnosis, but as complex as these control systems are, sometimes it is the best alternative. You do not have to pay them to fix the problem, just let them diagnose it for you. then you can buy the right part and fix it yourself.
katherine