Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

he11bent

Check out SB 21-004-02:
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 2000 - 2003 (AN) DAKOTA TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH A 4.7L ENGINE (SALES CODE EVA) AND 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION (SALES CODE A36). 2002 - 2003 (DR) RAM TRUCK EQUIPPED WITH 3.7L, 4.7L OR 5.7L ENGINE (SALES CODE EKG, EVA, OR EZA) AND 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION (SALES CODE A36, A64, OR A74).

DISCUSSION:

The clutch housing maintains alignment between the crankshaft and transmission input shaft. The structural cover provides additional powertrain stiffness and reduces noise and vibration. If either one is bolted to the engine or to each other, in the wrong sequence, drivetrain misalignment could result. Misalignment could result in reduced life expectancy of drivetrain components such as the clutch disc assembly, pilot bearing, clutch release components, and transmission.

If misalignment is suspected and the clutch housing bore runout is found to be excessive using the diagnostic procedures in the service manual or if the clutch housing and structural cover has been removed for any reason, the components should be installed using the following Repair Procedure.

hubbsy

i have an '01 1500 ram 4speed auto. The problem is in town at around 35 mph I have to let up on gas for it to shift. Also when I go to pass sometimes it is ok and other times it is like it goes to neutral and back in. I recently pulled a 25' camper at 55mph and occasionly you could feel the tranny kick up about 200 rpm and right back down.

pcarter2

I Have the same problem I think.
If you put it in second, does it coast and if you step on the gas go into first? Almost like there's no second gear?
I can drive the truck normal but it kicks into first to easy and slides into third. Geez...., If you get an answer, let me know. I've been waiting to hear an answer for about a month
Hoping it was a bolt on or adjustment and not a blown tranny.
Thanks,
Paul :confuse:
pgcarter@sacoriver.net

dustyk

The manual transmissions behind the Dodge Cummins engine are very reliable and durable. It is nearly the exact transmission used in GM diesel versions.

Your '02 RAM diesel has the 47RE transmission, I believe. This version is actually more than adequate behind the Cummins for that year. The drive architecture is strong and rated with a good margin for the power of the Cummins in that year. I have never seen or heard of a broken sun gear, planetary gear, input or output shafts in a 47RE behind a Cummins.

Problems with these transmissions are usually prompted by lack of maintenance, incorrect ATF, improper usage, high mileage, or a combination of these. Contaminated (dirty) or oxidized automatic transmission fluid will cause eventual wear or damage to major components. Keeping the transmission in overdrive when carrying or towing heavy loads, especially in very cold temperatures and in hilly terrain, will overheat the overdrive unit. This causes premature oxidation of the ATF, as well as loading the fluid up with wear material, and that causes poor fluid flow in the valve body (shift) components. This in turn causes advanced clutch wear.

Using the incorrect fluid will commit these transmissions to certain death. Never use Dexron-Mercon. Always use ATF+4.

Of the more common serious component problems with this engine-transmission combination requiring major tear down are usually associated with a worn torque converter clutch, worn bands (commonly the kickdown band), or worn overdrive clutches.

Probably the most common problem seen on these transmissions are clogged valve body ports or sticky shift solenoids and clogged anti-drain back valves. Earlier shift solenoids became magnetized over time rendering them erratic or inoperable. I've seen shift cables out of adjustment. The majority of the time shifting issues can be resolved by removing and cleaning the valve body and related components. However, dirty fluid requires complete evacuation of the transmission, and usually requires a replacement of the anti-drain back valve, although they can be cleaned if done properly.

I've seen many of these transmissions go 150,000 miles without problem or tear down. And I've seen some go even further. Keep in mind that by their very nature a diesel truck is going to put more wear on transmission parts if used at or near work capacity.

If the fluid and filter is changed regularly, the bands are adjusted periodically, and overdrive is switched off when towing or carry very heavy loads or in hilly country, these transmissions will go just as far as anything else.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk

I suspect that your mechanic has a anti-Dodge bias.

I managed a fleet of LD pickups some years ago for my company. The 2000 F150 was a pretty good truck, in my opinion. In my experience, however, the Dodge and Ford of that year were about as close as you'll ever get in terms of reliability. They both have their pluses and minuses. You shouldn't go wrong with either one.

Regards,
Dusty

xochiltz1

Have you had any success on what the problem might be? I have a 98 Ram 1500 and having the same problem and worried to drive it. I had it in a shop and they seemed to think the it was an acutator valve in the transmission. I have yet to fix it becuase of the cost is much more that I can handle right now. Have you heard of this being the problem of the shifting? :confuse:

KCRam

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corkscrew

Check the transmission fluid level first. I'm assuming you have an automatic. The manual will tell you how to check fluid level.
Is the check engine light on? If it is on, you can get the code(s) manually. Get paper and pencil in case there are more than one.
Here's how: Put the key in the ignition and cycle it on-off-on off-on. Look at the odometer and in a few seconds numbers will appear. These are your fault codes. Go to Auto Zone, they will tell you what the codes are.

lbjkj

After reading all the post, and talking to the dealership, it is odivious that Dodge has installed alot of faulty ABS modules. It seems to me that all the owners having this problem should get together and see about getting something done! The dealer told me that, ya my ABS module is "defective" and for a thousand dollars they would replace it and the wiring harness. My truck had about 38,000 miles on it when it fried the ABS module, this to me is pathetic. But the big american auto makers can't understand why people are buying foreign cars!

vinci

I am finding that my emergency brake goes to the floor with very little holding power. Is there an adjustment for this or will it require more extensive repairs. My son has removed the rear wheels and find that the emergency brake is a separate brake on the inside of the hub. Is this correct and how do we repair this. I'm looking for all the help I can get.
:sick: Thanks John

marsha7

Unless design has radically changed, there should be a horizontal slot toward the bottom of each backing plate, possibly covered by a rubber dust cover...

Remove the dust cover, and if you stick a flat blade screwdriver (or a wider "brake adjusting tool") you can slowly click a starwheel to push the rear brake shoes (the ones specifically for the parking brake) until they rub up againt the inside surface of the rear disc rotor...then, back off 2-3 clicks so that the wheel spins freely without friction...that is only if the brake shoe surface is too far away from the inside rotor surface...

another possibility is to check the parking brake cable and see if it is snug or slack...if snug, then it is probably the inside brake shoes that are the problem...if it has slack, then when you step on the parking brake, you are pulling up the cable slack without applying the actual brake, hence, no parking brake...in that case, there is a cable adjuster used to take out the slack...

And, it could be both... :P :P

hubbsy

I'm taking it to a guy today that says it is a kick down cable that is sticking. He is a transmission tech for the local Dodge dealer. I will get back with you later to let you know.

joelocal

I have a 2001 dodge ram with 71000 miles. It is showing 2 ORDII codes: P0455 (probably gas cap) and p1762(govonor pressure sensor offset improper voltage).

On the p0455 code - When I go to buy a new gas cap, is a non-oem cap from the local autoparts store ok or do I have to go buy one from Dodge?

On the P1762 code - my transmission is sometimes not shifting properly from first to 2nd to 3rd. It just does it every other time. If I let the truck warm up for a couple of minutes and the gas tank is at least 1/2 full it always shifts ok. What are the easy steps to take for fixing this one? Any ideals?

he11bent

I have an 2003, I bought the gas cap from Dodge. It was like 16 or 18 bucks. I figured if the emissions system was that sensitive, I would just go OEM. I didn't disconnect the battery or clear the codes. it took a few days for the light to go out. That was a month ago.

laswamprat

Hay kolohe1 I've got good news for you on that Dodge V10. I have found two of these ICMs, no I don't want to part with one of them but I can tell you how you can find one. First you need a boneyard to search for a yard with a 94-96 V10 body. I would suggest you get 3 to 6 yards with the body. Next call an tell them "I understand that you have a Dodge V10". If the answer is yes then ask them for the ICM(make sure you describe it and explain that is different from the ECM) Give them the location and the approximate dimensions of the part and ask them to check the body for the part. This worked twice for me. I hope you can find one or two like I did. I put one on one truck to sell it and I have another in case I need it for the other I am driving. Here is the best news they cost $40 and $60 plus shipping. How about that?!!! good luck!!!!! laswamprat

hubbsy

Had it looked at Sunday by a Dodge trans mech. He is saying mine has a shift kit in it for pulling. I'm not so sure. When I talked to him the first time he told me it was the kickdown cable hanging up. He did take it off and put lube in it. I'm going to be pulling again in 2 weeks so I will see. :confuse:

hubbsy

I've not had the problem with second gear. YET. :confuse:

nnfdram

i recently purchased an used ram 94 from a co-worker. he explained to me that the transmission was slipping. i've recently took my vehicle to an amoco for servicing. they instructed me to have my transmission rebuilt. i would like to hear what you friend, who works on transmission, has to say.

hubbsy

Let me get ahold of him and I will get back as soon as possible. How many miles and does it slip all the time.

george3405

My '01 Dodge Ram 1500's ABS motor started running one day and would not shut off. I had to remove the fuse and therefore no longer have ABS and the ABS and Brake lights are on on the dash. Any ideas as to what would cause the motor to run whether the key is on or off? By the way this is a 2 wheel drive with full ABS. Thanks, George.

idelgado

I had a similar problem with a used Grand Am I bought. It would take a few seconds to engage when cold and run fine after it warmed up. It seems that some seals had hardened because the previous owner let the car sit for months.
Sounds crazy but it worked. My father in law, a mechanic all his life told me to mix an amount equal to 1/2 soda can of brake fluid and the other half of trans fluid. Put it in the tranny and let it idle or drive it as usual. After the second day the problem disappeared and I sold the car 2 years later and it still ran fine.

Good luck,

Israel Delgado

xochiltz1

With the increasing of gas prices, does anyone have some ideas of how to increase gas mileage at a reasonable price? I am now putting so much money into the tank and want to minimize it. Suggestions?

loncray

With a Ram pickup, the key is aerodynamics. Keep your speed down - your mileage suffers over 60 or 65 mph because you're pushing a brick thru air. I've seen all kinds of studies about tailgates - up, down, net, nothing.... I think the best thing you can do is use a cab-height cap and keep the rear window and tailgate closed. If you've got the money, get a diesel with 2wd - my 4x4 diesel gets 15 mpg in stop and go traffic even with my lead foot and a high cap on the back - 20 mpg on the highway.

mac24

If you're asking if there is a gadget/device you can fit that will be cost effective in reducing your fuel consumption, then the answer is no!

However, some basic web searching will reveal many simple driving techniques that will help you use less gas for the miles that you drive. You can also find several discussions dedicated to gas mileage here on Edmunds.

corkscrew

Change plugs and filters as recomended by the manufacturer.If you have an automatic, have the transmission flushed and refilled also.
I went from 16 mpg to 19 mpg highway after flushing the tranny.

bigred11

Hi, I having some major misfire problems with my 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. It has a 5.9 and it has multiple misfires at low rpms especially in overdrive. im getting misfire codes on #2, 6, 7, and 5. I've replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributer cap, coil, oxygen sensors, TPS sensor, MAP sensor,and fuel pump. still no improvements. If anyone is having similar problems and found a solution please let me know. The mechanics said its possibly a PCM problem. To add to this, everytime I fill the gas tank above the the quater line, it loses power once its hits second gear and the engine light blinks. any help would be appreciated.

dodge owner
Will

notorioushop

It HAD to happen yesterday.

I've got a sick ritual where I wait until 9pm on tax day to START doing my taxes and then roll up to the post office around 11:30p to drop it off. Well this year is the last year I do that.

I got in my truck, put the key in the ignition, started turning it, all the lights on the dash turned on as usual and as I continued to start it, all the lights in the vehicle when out. Except for the red security alarm light blinking on my dashboard. Walked away for a few minutes and then came back to the truck. All the lights worked again until I tried to start it.

This is apparently the vehicle's built-in security system. Assuming no one was messing with my vehicle earlier that evening, what could have caused this to engage? Is there anything special about the key that could be causing this (key worn or some unknown security device in the chip)?

Is there any simple way to reset it or bypass it without significant effort? Does anyone have any suggestions for things I can try? If I have to take it into the dealer, what is the likely problem and cost to fix (looking for a reasonably educated estimate)? Any help anyone can provide would be appreciated. Thanks.

ramhead1

Sorry.... New here... My 1998 Ram 1500 4x4 (60,000 miles)has an issue with the air conditioning... It blows cold... no leaks...all seems fine... Under acceleration, I thought the air kicked out, but actually it seems to change from blowing out the air conditioning ducts, to the defroster ducts... Has anyone heard of this problem before?... Is there a fix?... Thanks for any answers and/or help..

mac24

I'd take a guess at a vacuum leak. HVAC airflow is controlled by vacuum operated doors. Vacuum is at its lowest under acceleration and its highest on the overun. It's likely one of the vacuum motors is returning a door to its resting position when you hit the gas. Simple problem but it can be a tedious fix (lots of hoses and connections to check ).

kilster

Check for a broken vacuum hose under your battery that connects to the cruise control servo, you will probably find the problem here.

ramhead1

Tnx .... mac24 & kilster... think I found problem... was vacuum hose... was also under battery... So... I have a new problem... I hear a timing chain rattle (I think).. when I am accelerating, and the tranny doesn't kick down.. I did overheat this motor(and tranny) once..climbing a hill in 3 feet of spring snow with ice under... I got to the top..then all shut down... all gauges showed hot... I've heard that this timing chain gear has some type of coating on it and wears down if overheated... Is there a better timing chain, and gear upgrade?... I have the 318....5.2 litre...60,000 miles...Will the chain slip and kill my motor?... Thanks 4 any help.......

kilster

I think the noise you hear is spark knocking, I've only seen some old chains rattle on the 3.9L but not really common for the v-8's I'm going to guess you might have a intake gasket leaking and its sucking oil into the combustion chambers and causing the spark knock. Remove your air cleaner from the throttle body and take a small flash light and look into the intake with the throttle open, if you see oil puddling then I think that may be your problem. Intake leaks are very common. Could be a number of things not making the trans down shift, dont really know where to tell you to start on that one but maybe look at the linkages and throttle cable for the kick down for the trans. Good luck, hope this may help you

ramhead1

Tnx kilster...you must know alot about Mopar... I will check throttle body for oil... I did have intake gasket replaced under warranty at 31,000 miles... Thanks again....

natepenn

I am thinking about buying a 2000 cummins 2500 with the auto transmission. it has 166,000 on it. anyone with general info on these transmissions would surely be appreciated. Is it due for a new tranny??? if not now, how long? are these years known fro having auto tranny issues? thanks to anyone who can help.

mac24

I can't give you specifics, but so much depends on how it was driven, and how it was serviced, during those 166,000 miles..........and transmissions are notorious for getting little attention and service until a problem arises.

natepenn

ok...that's pretty much what I thought. i am not a fan of autos anyway so I'll just take my time and if it's gone by the end of the week, then it's gone. It is at a good price though......thanks for the help

dvnelson

Have a 2001 diesel 4X4. Couple weeks ago in OD felt like someone was flicking a light switch on and off, going in and out of the torque lock up?(rpm goes up and down about 400 - back and forth) Doesn't do it unless I'm driving between about 45 to 55 mph. After that no problems cruises at 55+ just fine. Only when I slow down below 55 and then accelerate again.

pcarter2

Thanks Dusty,
Ive just now been able to get back on the message Board.
Kept getting an error when trying to log on.

As long as I drive it easy it drives fine, but who like to drive easy and pass people in 3rd gear?
On the upside, I'm getting great gas mileage!
Thanks for the advice. At least I've got a list to
check thru now.

Paul

pcarter2

K&N air filter system helps.
Not a bunch, but it helps.

twadwis

My new to me 2003, 2500HD turbo 4wd 6 speed is in the shop after less than 500 miles,(48000 on od) Large dealership where I bought the thing tells me the 2 front u-joints are bad as is one of the rear ones. I have an extended warrantee that will cover the u-joints but now they tell me that some of the trucks are so 'rusty' that they can't get the hubs off with out torching them which of course is going to cook lots of expensive stuff...and of course mine is one of those trucks and the warrantee won't cover the damage they do in getting things apart. WHAT??? Now they are also telling me that the rotors are over 70% gone and would have had to been replaced anyway....that's supposed to make me feel better? I've had to get tough but have managed to get the bill down to $180...I bought a new car and this truck at the same time, $49,000 check and they are acting like they are doing me a big favor in covering the expenses for something they should have taken care of before the truck hit the lot. I reminded them that their sales pitch is a 100 point safety check on all used vehicles. Oh and did I say that I found the spare tire laying in the bed was covering a serious dent in the bed wall behind the cab, the floor is actually separated by over an inch. The final insult is I asked them to see why the lights on top of the cab don't work...they are 'empty', not wired..huh ??
Can't believe I was that careless, unfortunately I bought the truck and it sat in the garage for 2 months, I drove my old truck, 'saving' the new one from winter salt.
One last gripe...this dealer is an hour drive for me so on top of money this all eats time too. There...now I feel better. I really do want to know if this 'frozen hub' thing is happened to anyone else?

dennm

My passenger side seat belt is locked with no slack on my 2001 ram 1500 quad cab. I unbolted the seat belt from the bottom and that just made it worse. Any ideas on how to fix?

ahavens

Twice recently my engine has died while driving. I figure it has something to do with the fuel flow because both times I had about a quarter of a tank of gas left and I was going downhill (Though not very steep at all). I just pulled over and it started right back up. I have been told it could be vapor lock. What's up? It's the 5.2L.

Mr_Shiftright

Modern cars don't vapor lock as a rule...very unlikely. Some vehicles have pumps AND a filter in the gas tank itself (called a ribbon filter). Perhaps this is something you should research on your truck. Otherwise, a relationshp between low fuel level and interruption of the fuel flow suggests to me a weak fuel pump.

jneal

"Otherwise, a relationshp between low fuel level and interruption of the fuel flow suggests to me a weak fuel pump."

Agreed....in-tank pumps rely on fuel level for cooling which is why it is recommended to never drive at 1/4 tank or lower for extended times. This sounds like the pump is getting too hot and not pumping sufficently.

ahavens

Thanks to both of you. Not really looking forward to pulling off the entire fuel tank, but I'll let you know how it turns out.

jneal

If you are going to do the work yourself you might want to try something that most people have found to be much easier than dropping the tank.
Unbolt all but the rear bolts on the bed, just loosen those enough to raise the front of the bed. Raise the bed and prop it securely and then you have access to the top of the fuel tank. You will also have to remove the filler neck hose.

ahavens

Well now that would have been cool. Unfortunately, I have already gone the hard way about it. The good news is that all went well, the rig seems to be idling much smoother, and that pesky check engine light is off. Thanks!

jneal

Glad all went well for you.

nicaraguan_ram

2001 RAM 2500 diesel 4X4 Quad Cab: Engine starts normal but the following will not work: (1) air condition, (2) electrical windows, (3) horn, (4)speedometer + + +. Will pull fuse #12 (?) and engine dies. Replace fuse and start engine and all the above work except right electrical window.

Someone said it sounds like IGNITION SWITCH + pigtail need replacing.

Comments and / or suggestions please. Please e-mail g.e.adams@sbcglobal.net (George) Thanks in advance

Kirstie_H

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