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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
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Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jim
I think you've just got a punky radiator.
Good luck,
Dusty
It's very, very rare on a Mopar, but the clicking noise could be from a broken sun gear or input shaft.
Bests,
Dusty
I have a 1999 Dodge RAM Truck, 1500, 1/2 Ton, 2WD Pickup V8-360 5.9L in almost like new condition with 76000 miles on it.
I was enjoying myself, riding down the street, when suddenly all the instrument panal lights came on. The mileage indicator says NO BUS,
and all the warning lights are on like a xmas tree, and the gas guage doesn't work.
That was 3 days ago, and they are still the same.
Other then that, my truck is running perfectly.
If you have had this problem, or know where I can find out information about this problem = please help me. I fiddled with it but couldn't solve the problem.
Thank you so much for any help you can give me.
Do you know of any place I can look for a recall on bulletin about my problem.
Cajun
bluefly@cox.net
.
Dusty
Within the last six months,
The dasboard has cracked in 5 different places, The plastic piece that holds the ashtray in broke off, the plastic piece on the side of the glovebox that holds it in broke, the plastic latch on the little document holder up on the roof of the cab broke off, the plastic emergency brake release broke so now I just pull the brake cable manually.
And by coincidence, my neighbor had a 2000 Dodge Ram Quad Cab and the identical type of thing was happening to his interior. A 6 inch diameter chunck fell out of the top of the dashboard just above the stering wheel along with the dashboard spliting in numerous places similar to mine.
Question: is their a "root cause analysis" available with regards to this "ashes to ashes, dashboard to dust" scenario?
IN RESPONSE TO EVERYONE'S POST, I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE GAS MILEAGE IT WAS VERY POOR. I HAVE 410'S IN THE REAR AND A STICK THATS BASICALLY 4 GEARS OVERDRIVEN. YOU JUST CANT COUNT FIRST GEAR, BUT ANYHOW WHEN I WAS PULLING A LOAD I FOUND THIS GREAT WEBSITE OUT THAT HELPED ME GET MY BETTER GAS MILES. IT WAS CALLED TOWINGWING.COM AND THEY HAVE WIND DEFLECTORS THAT DID TRUELY SAVE ME 10 PERCENT IN GAS AND IT LOOKS GREAT TOO! CHECK THEM OUT AND MAYBE IT WILL BRING THAT POOR MILEAGE UP!
THANKS GUYS,
ANTHONY
PF Flyer
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If you have fuel and spark, you're probably looking at a bad catalytic converter or bad timing chain and gears.
Bests,
Dusty
First thing I would check before you start worrying about swaps: your trans fluid. Slipping, then losing reverse is the sign of low fluid, and it could be something as simple as a pan gasket. When that happened to my 96 47RE, I knew it was time to top off the ATF, and when it got persistent, I had it checked out and found one of the lines to the cooler was shot and leaking. Dealer changed the line and no more probs.
kcram - Pickups Host
You can pressure test the system to verify a leak. Check the overflow bottle for fluid level. If it's where it should be you just might have a bad radiator cap.
Keep us posted.
Best regards,
Dusty
It turns over but will not start. It appears that there is no fuel to the engine, and I can hear the fuel pump run while under it.I tried switching
fuel pump relays in the fuse box with identical ones that I knew worked and it still won't start. Can anyone help me before the dealer racks up a hefty fee for something that may be minor?
tony37642@yahoo.com
Assuming you have fuel in the tank, its possible that a large amount of dirt has accumulated on the fuel pump's inlet strainer. It is integral with the pump.
Another possibility is the fuel pressure regulator/filter has failed and caused a complete shut-off of fuel to the injectors.
Another possibility is the loss of operating signals to the injectors preventing them from opening. That would be an electrical wiring or a PCM computer-related problem.
Unless you have the factory shop manual and have confidence in your troubleshooting abilities, I think this might be one for your dealer.
Good luck,
Dusty
after sitting unused over the weekend, my truck started fine and drove fine, but my speedometer needle is jumping up and down while sitting still at a light or while in park, and my ABS and emergency brake lights come on and do not go off after having been started for a minute or two. the brakes seem fine also. the rest of the dash indicators seem normal.
what's up? computer? alternator problem?
Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks!
Yes. Find another dealer.
The 360 IS NOT known to be a rough idler and your question as to why just now is indicative.
Cracked vacuum hoses most certainly should be suspect. Even if it is not now causing a problem, they should be replaced.
You don't say how many miles are on this engine, but if you're under 40K I would rule out on the first pass a bad valve or something more serious.
Most poor idle or performance problems nowadays are fuel delivery related, specifically the fuel injectors. I've not heard many complaints on Mopars, but dirty injectors or Idle Air Control valve are not uncommon contributors to rough idle and low-speed skips. My suggestion would be to run a good quality fuel injector cleaner through the engine, and disassembly and clean the Idle Air Control valve and port area.
Of course, spark plugs could also be a problem. Check the simple things first.
Best regards,
Dusty
kcram - Pickups Host
I can understand that you don't want to pull everything off, but seriously, going in there with a Banks Six Gun connected is asking to have any warranty coverage pulled from the engine, transmission and drivetrain.
You're supposed to keep that stuff secret!
:--)
I've read on this board that it is a known issue and that DC is working on it. Did you resolve your problem - if so what was the cause/solution?
kcram - Pickups Host
What happens is this. The rubber in the hose begins to deteriorate from the brake fluid. The rubber absorbs the fluid over time and swells, reducing the inside diameter of the hose. When applying brake pressure fluid is forced into the caliper. However, when pressure from the master cylinder is released, the swollen hose actually closes off any fluid flow back into the master cylinder. This keeps the pressure applied to the caliper.
Good luck,
Dusty
Cant keep U joints in the rear drive line since the first month Ive owned it. I average about eight thousand miles per set.
Lost the Tranny...5 speed manual....at 84000 miles.
lost the fuel pickup pump and injector pump at 82000 miles.
Lost injetcter pump again at 87000 and again at 98700 miles.
I now have 99500 and I am scared to keep driving it. it acts like it is starting to starve for fuel again and I think it is the ijecter pump again.
I also had a new turbo and M.A.P. senser installed at 98700
Is this pretty common? The warranty is about to expire and I cant buy and new injecter pump every two thousand miles. That would cost me a dollar per mile just to keep it running.
Also thinking of trading for a new one>? any suggestions? Ford?
Unfortunately, there's no universally correct answer as to which make you should replace it with. Logic and emotion both play major roles!
kcram - Pickups Host
Check your battery terminals and have your battery checked for the proper voltage and load test. A flaky battery will cause all sorts of problems.
Steve