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I'm taking it in after the holidays to get it checked out.
I notice that it happens first thing in the morning on my way to work; when I get off and drive home, it's not as noticeable. It's still rather annoying and I don't want my new ride having problems like that. It feels like something with my left front tire as the steering wheel shakes slightly when this happens.
Crissy1: I just sold my 97 Altima to a 17 or 18 yr old girl. She was absolutely ecstatic over it. As far as safety, the 97 Maxima will definitely fare better since it is so much bigger and is a newer design (its platform dates back to 95, whereas the Altima dates all the way back to 93). Don't go for a 95-96 Maxima though, they had poor bumpers and didn't do good in the offset impact because of a failed seat track. They redesigned the seat track and improved the bumpers on the 97 model. Concerning timing chains, both the Maxima and Altima use them. They usually never need to be replaced in a normal car's lifespan, whereas a belt needs to be changed every 60-100k miles or you risk internal damage if they break. Ford and GM use timing chains on their cars in this size class, but I doubt you are considering them. The only other car that might use a chain is the Camry, but don't quote me on that. I'm pretty sure the four cylinder models use a chain though. The only downside to a chain is a slightly noiser engine at full throttle and when idling, but in most cars nowadays, that's not a concern. My 97 Altima was very reliable. I didn't have any mechanical problems other than the battery exploding (which wasn't the car's fault). At 68k, it wasn't burning any oil and everything worked fine. The interior did have a few rattles and buzzes in it and the ride was rather stiff and jiggly. It was not the nicest riding car in its class by far. The four cylinder has more then enough pep and the brakes are quite strong. I think the Maxima would be a bit too powerful for a beginning driver. I would stick with either the Altima, Accord, or Camry. Hope that info helps.
Has anyone else noticed this? It seems as if the latch that holds it in place is faulty.
Any comments>?
I have 1995 Nissan Altima GXE, that started a problem. When standing idle or slowing down, I see the rpm goes up and down and then goes to zero and the car stalls. I have checked the car with couple of mechanics. They first set the idle rpm, then checked ground of the air intake sensor, changed the distributer and then changed air intake sensor, but the problem persists. Anybody have any input as to what could be the problem. I just want to solve the problem and sell the car.
Thanks in advance.
Toyota took an older engine, tried to upgrade it to make it a ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) and wound up stepping on their crank.
The sales guy was showing if off and he COULDN'T CLOSE IT... tragic... it wouldn't latch.
My question is: The Edmund's paper back describes this as a one touch close/open type sunroof but that is not true is it? Someone with a sunroof on their car please let me know. I believe you have to hold the button down until the position is reached. One touch to me sounds like the driver's window that will lower all the way down with one touch.
The problem with their sunroof is when I hold the close button, the sunroof closes but does not stop at close but keeps going until it is tilted up. To close the sunroof, one has to time it exactly right when to let off the button or bump it, bump it, bump it just before it starts to tilt up. Thanks for the help. Robert
Your parents' sunroof definitely has a problem. Mine stops at the correct point when you hold the button down.
Anyone have advice for fixing a problem like this, where the car doesn't have the problem at the dealer so they can troubleshoot it?
I don't want to take the car back, having the dealer say its fine, drive it to work, and find out that my car doesn't start at 7pm in a parking garage downtown where I work.
Any help would be awesome. Thanks all.
Dinos
read post 20, I have similar problem but have not tried post 20 recommdation. will advise if it works. my 94 altima has been flawless to this point. a very reliable vehicle.
did procedure in post 20 and it worked first time. don't know how long it will last. if problem reoccurs and parts are needed I will post info. good luck on yours.
I have a 4 cyl. auto. 2.5s. Have any of you experienced some tapping noise from the engine hood? It is like a noise from circulation of chain or belt. It is not so noticible when the car is running, but in idling condition, it is very noticible. I took the car to a Nissan dealer, but what I heard was simply 'normal'.
Any of you know how to erase it?
Any comment will be appreciated so much.
From Eugene, OR
I have a 4 cyl. auto. 2.5s. Have any of you experienced some tapping noise from the engine hood? It is like a noise from circulation of chain or belt. It is not so noticible when the car is running, but in idling condition, it is very noticible. I took the car to a Nissan dealer, but what I heard was simply 'normal'.
Any of you know how to erase it?
Any comment will be appreciated so much.
From Eugene, OR
You're in for a real surprise, the computer can only compensate so much and for a so long.
But, for plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor. You need to change them. even for performance and fuel economy purpose. You will be amazed to see how much better the car performs after replacing them. I have done all of that on my car when it had 70K and noticed a real performance and MPG gain.
The distributor on 95-99 altima is not very reliable, if you don't change the cap&rotor, you will stress it and it will fail sooner or later - which will cost you about $300. I have heard a lot of people had distributor went north around 100K mark (most are around 120K though). So, it would be good to replace all of them NOW!
It is farely easy to remove the door panel and inspect yourself before use any chemical - which may make it worse, then you need you pay $$$$ to get it fixed.
I expect the same use out of my 2001 Altima (21k miles).
front wind shield of 2002 altimas?