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Thanks
http://www.dieselgeek.com/golf_iv_main.htm
Also the dealership I found the Castrol at is the Brand new VW dealership in Brandon Florida so far I like them better than the Lakeland dealership
http://www.dieselgeek.com/a4steelplate.php
I hope this is what you need
http://www.worldimpex.com/item_detail.html?sku=238687
http://www.ecdiesel.com/about/product.asp
My Golf TDI started acting up yesterday (just passes 88,000 miles), first warmer day of the year. Problem seems very similar to yours in that the car does not want to accelerate. Engine runs smooth, but as I was going 85 mph it did not want to quickly accelerate to pass. Later on I noticed it was hard to get it up to speed on some mountains. Just seems like it doesn't have the power past 2000 RPM's. Engine is not running hot either.
Thanks.
Got my 2004 Jetta TDI in June and love everything about but one thing, and it's a BIG thing. Black greasy soot all over the garage floor. I mean lots of it too. VW Service says it's normal but other owners I've talked to have no problems at all. They were surpised as a matter of fact.
What do you all have to say? Is this normal or do I have a major problem both with the car and my dealership? Thanks
Have you tried switching fuels? You might be getting some extra greasy stuff. I get a small puff of smoke on a cold start if I'm running trusted #2 diesel. Doesn't leave any soot in the garage though. If i run premium diesel, it never smokes.
Can you get this to smoke if you're hard on the throttle? I would think if it's bad enough to leave soot on the garage floor you'd see some smoke in your rear-view.
A lot of areas only get one type of diesel and it all comes from the same refinery. That means all the diesel is bad. I luckily live between several major refinerys and have a lot of different fuels to pick from . Ashland diesel is horrible, and leaves a smoke screen. BP #2 is quite good and just leaves a small puff on cold start-up. BP diesel supreme never smokes and doesn't even have the odor in the garage like the other fuels. The general truck-stops around here carry a generic #2 that isn't bad, it smokes a little more than BP #2.
It's possible your injection quantity is off which could cause more smoke. Or even the timing. Any cold-start problems or hesitation?
Thanks again for your help
I have an '04 GLS TDI (purchased 04/04) and recently purchased an 05 Passat GLS TDI and I don't have that problem at all. I do, however, back them out of the garage on the mornings I let them warm up, but even so, they sit in the same place on the driveway and I haven't had any problems. Does the station where you get your diesel pump alot of it? That could be part of it, old or poor quality fuel. Heck, my F350 Powerstroke diesel doesn't even leave any marks on the drive.
-PR-
03 Ford F350 SuperCrew KingRanch 6.0L Powerstroke
04 VW Jetta GLS TDI
05 VW Passat GLS TDI
If you are getting BLACK smoke, I wonder if you are using enough fuel additive. A cetane improver will go a LOONG way twards reducing smoke.
Thanks....
I will pick up my new Passat on Monday in Portland. Have you found some brands of diesel are much better than others? When I get home I will fillup wtih ECD-1 ULSD and give it the test. I am concerned on the trip down through Oregon. Or should I just put an additive in and not worry about it? I am excited....
I have been guilty of going to truck stops and using the normal #2 brew.
When going through an Oregon station, just make sure the pump jockey doesn't
1. put unleaded gas in your #2 diesel tank :mad:
2. let the fuel spill all over your brand new bodywork.
This almost happened at two separate stations!!!??? They must receive some kind of training to make this happen or something??
Cautions aside have a GREAT trip. You will have a lot of good highway miles! Let us know how you like the Passat!
Caution- if you have been using dino and make the switch, it is claimed that the Bio is an efficient solvent and will dissolve residues in the fuel tank and lines. These residues can clog the fuel filter and cause a decrease in performance.
Funny Bio-diesel story: I was filling up at Fleming's Shell in West Chesterfield, NH, about 1/2 mile from Brattleboro, VT. A guy at the Dino-pump said to me "You can't put that bio-diesel in your car, that is only for farm equipment". I laughed, told him that is all I use and challenged him to give it a try in his truck (I think it was a big Ford, Harley Davidson edition). The price was the same ($2.37). On 2 additional fill-ups, I had great conversations with people who were giving B-20 a try for the first time!
The local and very good Mobil One Delvac supplier sells bio diesel, but conversely it is deep in the San Jose industrial area (24 miles R/T) for me. Of course, the last time I checked it was app 1 dollar more than the #2 brew. This is in interesting contrast to bio diesel that was available on the main drag in a so called "Mom and Pop" location into downtown Durango CO.
If one has no choice but to take a BRAND NEW engine on the highway for 100s of miles, make absolutely sure that the cruse-control is not used and the roadspeed is varied every 30 minutes or so.
Also include the all-important "short bursts of full-throttle accelleration" followed by decelleration. This is the only way to begin to seat the rings -- expecially with a turbocharged diesel engine.
Taking a BRAND NEW engine on a long roadtrip and using cruse-control is just asking for troubles later in the life of the engine. (oil-burner, low MPG, poor compression.... etc. )
A brand new car will always have the 200 mile under 55 mph for the tires to break in. Next is the break in of the brake pads/rotors. Then the (hopefully) gentle break in of the suspension. The most important will probably be for the engine and transmission combination.
As most probably know, driving a diesel has a different emphasis.
In planning out our trip I found this list of ARCO stations in California that now sell ULSD. It is BP ECD-1 the stuff that will be mandated next year.
I have more stations in my area than I thought.
http://www.ecdiesel.com/documents/ecd-1_retail_list.pdf
Incidentally, one of the dealers in Portland today is advertising 2005 Passat TDI GLS sedans [at least five are claimed available] at $21,995. I'll admit that got my attention...
I think Portland has some good prices. I was thinking of buying a second one just in case they quit bringing diesels into this country. You know CARB and the hatchet they wield.
Be aware that running the higher PSI will make for a more bumpy ride. The reccomendation in the owners manual is intended to provide the most supple ride.
I regularly get between 600 and 800 miles per tank of fuel. (the delta is larger on an efficent vehicle because every variable 'amplifies' the MPG change)
I have a VW passat sport 1999 1.9 TDI. I have noticed a small knocking coming from under the car when it has reached engine temp or I have been driving for 5-10 mins from cold. If the engines warm the knocking starts only 1-2 mins into the journey. This noise has been getting progressively louder over the last few months. I think I have located where the noise is resonating from but its not the source - I don't think. Under the car on both the left and right hand side are 2 steel pipes side by side recessed into the floor (either side of the exhaust) now on the right hand side when the knocking is happening one of these pipe is vibrating at exactly the same time as the noise. The other side is not. Are these brake pipes - Could this be air in the system - I do not notice any braking problems. The noise may not be knocking it could be air but as its constant noise it just sounded pump like - the noise does not speed up with engine revs - its constant. Why would it only kick in after a time - it occurs when moving and stationary with handbrake on. Can anyone please help me - thanks in advance!
You might also check with the Internet sales man at Armstrong Buick VW in Gladstone, Oregon, South of Portland. I paid more than that with leather and 17" wheels. It was still under invoice. That is closer to Jetta GLS TDI pricing. A great deal if you can get a Passat GLS TDI for $21,995.
What is the price difference between B20 and unleaded regular at this time? Is the B20 more than # 2 diesel? I have one dealer in San Diego that sells B20 and have thought about using it. I can get BP ECD-1 ULSD in several ARCO locations now so fuel is not a big deal.
The B-20 is at a mom & pop store that sells Gulf fuels. They say they do not make anything on the B-20, but keep it because they are trying to help establish a market for it.
Who was the person that always answered posts on this forum with a call to switch to B-20? It was he (or she) that helped to educate me and make the switch!
Link to the Recall Letter
My Passat is scheduled for Tuesday and my Jetta is scheduled for Wednesday. The dealer said it takes a couple of hours to complete the job......
BTW....pictures...where are the pictures? I posted pics of mine over in the Diesel Fuel Economy and Chips Thread.