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Im at a loss on this and its something that popped up about a month ago.
our 99 TDI Beetle has absolutely no get up and go.... and will top out at about 70 mph flat highway. I was thinking fuel and air so I replaced fuel filter and air filter...
I'm not burning oil, engine sounds good, no jerking or anything like that. It just will not perform. Starts fine (replaced glow plugs last year...of course got soaked for the job for VW to get rid of the check engine light. We live in relatively cold climate but have had no starting issues and have been through a several tanks of diesel.
The light is back on ...and of course now I am stuck driving slow. Wondering about a waste gate issue? Anything I can do before I go kicking and screaming to VW?
If you do some research about this on the internet, you will find several do-it-yourself cleanings complete with photos.
I'm wondering if you have a obstruction in the fuel supply (tank vent??) that limits the fuel flow and therefore the speed. Can you find a flat spot in lower gears at same rpm? If so that would suggest a fuel supply problem.
I didn't really find a "flat spot" ...but if I ever need to step on it, go up a hill, or go flat beyond about 70 it will just not do it. Thanks so much ..everyone for the input. I was really getting worried. in this day and age...getting 50 mpg is like gold. I really enjoy the savings.
The dealer is asking $18,999, Blue Book is $19,150
Any thoughts on the price. Seems like there are used TDI’s showing up on the lots these days. I wonder why?
Consider getting 4-wheel alignment before installing QUALITY tires with a milage-warantee. Rotate them at least once a year. They should last for well over 50,000 miles.
Thanks for the info on what to do.
For me, it is important to have traction and safety in the winter months here in Vermont. The WRG2 is one of the only tires on the planet which is rated for summer AND winter (not just an "all season" tire which is NOT rated for snow.)
NOKIAN also stands by their products. I used to own a 4X4 Honda Civic which used to really wear through tires. I went back to the tire-seller to exercise the tire-warantee and NOKIAN replaced all 4 tires for about $15/tire (pro-rated pricing) They did this about 3 times over the time I owned that vehicle!
Also, I demand low rolling resistance to get the most MPG out of my Jetta TDI. These tires deliver with up to 56 MPG on the highway. (I have xcell charts to prove it!)
My eldest daughter has a NB (New Beetle) with 4 NOKIAN WRs on it. I have driven it in the snow and it does well.
If winter performance is not a priority for you... NOKIAN also offers summer-only tires.
When price and longevity are considerd, there are better tire-choices available than Michelin.
We tend to keep cars a long time. I traded a 1993 Explorer with 208000 miles, we purchased new, for the NB. $1,200 they gave me.
Bpeebles, would you be so kind as to tell me the fuel treatment you use. I know it has been gone over hundreds of times, but I have been away from the threads for a while.
What sweet ride, can’t wait to take it over the mountains (Cascades).
Best regards,
Shipo
Usually when I accelerate the oil pressure light blinks and is accompanied by beeping. This only happens when I'm accelerating, and it happens more on some days and not at all on others. My check engine light isn't on either. I'm not low on oil either, and it has always had it's scheduled oil changes.
Is there something I can do to eliminate this? I know oil pressure can be detrimental to the engine if it's too high or too low. I'm worried about driving it so I've been driving as little as possible.
I hope you can help!!
Thanks in advance!
Using the input from these 2 sensors and other details such as engine RPM, this setup can sense several possible problems
*) OilFilter plugging up
*) OilPump not providing enogh pressure
*) too much oil 'bleeding out' of the main bearings
*)...etc
I am assuming you are not seeing the light flashing if you just rev the engine in neutral. I am also assuming this happens more when the engine is HOT. (oil thins out when it is hot)
I have seen this exact same problem many years ago on my daughters 1st VW gulf. The engine in that car had many hard miles on it and the bearings were getting 'lose'. I was able to keep the engine going for the 2 years that she owned it by adding a can of STP OIL TREATMENT each time I changed the oil.
This worked because STP OIL TREATMENT is a viscosity improver (oil thickener) which helps keep the oil-pressure pumped-up when the oil is hot. Also STP OIL TREATMENT contains a big dose of detergents which can clean up the inside of an engine.
I did a couple oil/filter changes using STP OIL TREATMENT and the cheapest oil I could find. (about 1000 miles apart). The oil I got out of that engine was black black black. I knew the STP OIL TREATMENT was removing years of gunk.
After that, I did one more oil/filter change with quality oil and STP OIL TREATMENT... The engine ran smoother, quieter and the oil-pressure light never came on again during the 2 years my daugher drove that car.
You asked for a low-budget solution... I cannot guarantee anything but what I described above is a lot cheaper than tearing the engine apart or replacing it.
Also I assume you know that your 1.8t engine REQUIRES synthtic oil. VW/Audi had issues with some 1.8T engines which had NONsythentic oil run in them. The oil would overheat and start to break down leaving goop sticking to the inside of the passagways. (Almost like what cholestoral does to arteries)
Good luck... let me know how it works out for you.
Hmmm, maybe things have changed over the years, however, STP used to be an absolutely slam-dunk way to sludge up an engine in a very short period of time. The fact is (or was) that all of the detergents in the world couldn't stop the pariffin wax that was a significant reason why STP was such a thick oil (yes, "thick" oil, not oil with viscosity improvers).
For my money at least, I I'd rather put tar in an engine than STP.
Best regards,
Shipo
Let me be clear - do not any oil-treatment on a normal basis and instead use only real GERMAN MADE OIL that VW uses in German built vehicles.
HOWEVER: The original appender asked for a LOW BUDGET way to alleveate a problem with oil-pressure sensor alerting when engine under load. My response assumed that they would prefer not to order oil from Germany nor rebuild engine. With a high-milage engine and the other option is to tear-apart engine.... using STP Oil Treatment is a GREAT alternative in my book!
- ExxonMobile:
- - Mobil 1 0W-40
- Valvoline:
- - Synpower MST 5W-30 & 5W-40
- - Synpower HST 5W-40
- Pennzoil:
- - Platinum European Formula Ultra Full Synthetic 5W-30
- - Platinum European Formula Ultra Diesel Full Synthetic 5W-30
- - Platinum European Formula Full Synthetic 5W-40
- Quaker State:
- - Q European Engine Ultra 5W-30
- Castrol
- - Syntec 5W-40
- - Syntec 0W-30
Please note that of those listed oils, only the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 is made in Germany.
FWIW, the complete list of approved oils can be found here:
http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0- - - 023.File.pdf
Regarding the OP for this thread; I didn't respond because I didn't feel there was enough information in the post with which to formulate a response. The fact is that unless the OP has used 502.00 oil since very early on in the life of that engine, and changed it at least every 5,000 miles, the engine is probably heavily sludged. If that's the case, then one of the first indicators that the sludge is in there is when the oil pressure light starts blinking. The thing is, the blinking light is typically because the oil pickup screen has become clogged with sludge. If that's the case, then thickening the oil with STP will only hasten the demise of the engine as it will be even more reluctant to make its way through the pickup screen.
So, to the OP:
The first thing you should check is the oil pressure sensors, however, to do this you'll probably need to take the car to a mechanic familiar with the 1.8T and have him put a mechanical pressure gauge of known accuracy on the engine. If the pressures look good then you probably have a sensor or two that is in failure mode (this is a relatively rare but not unknown problem).
If the pressure is genuinely low, the next thing the person on a budget might want to consider is pulling the oil pan (a job I haven't done on your particular car but have heard that it is pretty easy as there aren't too many obstructing components below the engine) and inspect the oil pickup screen. If it's clogged, pull it and either figure out how to clean it with some sort of a solvent, or buy a new one.
Long story short, whatever you decide to do, do NOT put STP in your engine.
Best regards,
Shipo
However, the drain period you suggest of 5000 miles is, I believe, merely a device used in the U.S. market to generate income for Service Departments. Same engine, same oil spec here in Europe gets 10000 mile oil changes, (IIRC), as a VW recommendation in the handbook and current editions are 20k. Even the later TDi engines now go for 20k miles between changes - using the correct spec oil. Low-miles between oil changes seems to be a feature of the U.S. market which Europe would never tolerate. My 2004 1.9 TDi 130bhp had an interval of 10k miles and that is now 20k miles on the later ones. My Volvo S60 with the D5 engine runs 18k between changes under full warranty, sames as the petrol-engined variants. The oils and the engines are certainly up to it but the Service Dept doesn't get as much profit. I cannot imagine a 1.8T engine sludging up - using the correct spec oil, anyway. I can't remember when 5k oil changes ceased in Europe; it's so long ago, (except, perhaps, for some very exotic stuff but certainly no "production" cars).
I have related elsewhere a local taxi guy running 410k miles in 4 years without any problems other than tyres, a clutch and service items. That was a 1.9 TDi engine running on 10k miles oil changes and the car is still in daily use by his wife.
As for STP in modern engines - no thank you. With a TDi engine it might just invalidate the warranty as you have contaminated the original oil spec.
Just some thoughts from the U.K.
Best regards,
Shipo
While this might seem like a small thing, The TDI's "oil use" has been app 8oz per 10,000 miles or app 1/2 qt (16 oz) per 20,000 to 25,000 miles OCI. Incidently the oil used since oem fill and recommended oil change at 5,000 miles, Delvac One 5w40, aka Mobil One Truck & SUV 5w40, aka Mobil One TDT 5w40, does not carry the VW 500.00 series rating. While I would recommended using oils with the VW ( du jour) approved ratings, this oil seems to perform in an almost stellar fashion.
For the 2.0 and 1.8T I have heard of consumption up to 1 qt per 1,000 miles (and even less than 1,000 miles !!)
Best regards,
Shipo
The "needle in the haystack problems" remains however.
So for another example, I could have selected the 2003 TDI with the O1M automatic transmission....... :lemon: Perhaps the outcome COULD have been FAR different on the transmission despite a GREAT TDI engine
Not to get anyone's dander up, but @ first look, it looks like a VW Jetta Sportwagon, albeit higher and bigger/chunkier. link title VW Sportwagon link title
It will be interesting to see/hear how the 3.0 V6 TDI does. @221 hp/407 # ft and EPA of 17/25 mpg, it does set the bar/s very high, both for SUV's and INXS of 4,000 #'s segment vehicles. With a 26.4 gal tank, a 650+ miles range is nothing to sneeze at either.
I am swagging after 10,000 miles initial break in, 26-30 mpg will not be difficult to achieve.
Vs a TLC getting 14-16 mpg ( mid point of 15 mpg) , getting 25 mpg , I will take 67% better fuel mileage !!!!!!!!!
To put it in perspective, Jetta TDI 2.0 I4 @140 hp/236 # ft, EPA of 29/40 mpg. It is getting a range of 39-45 mpg. During the normal commute, (can't be herky jerky) more like 41-44 mpg. During a break in 2,300 miles trip/run (lots of spots to be herky jerky), it posted over all 43.5 mpg. (or so)
Highway 5 N/S, S/N was actually in construction herky jerky, (more like perpetual , but another issue) so it was simple to blend in. :shades: :lemon: Vancouver's WA,BC were both BAD. Portland's and Seattle's downtown's traffic was a rolling parking lot- (I am being too optimistic here I know). All in all a great trip.
Next ?
Here are some other possible contributing factors.
The turbocharger and intake manifold have a habit of plugging-up if you do not follow the advice of how to keep things cleaned out.
You *MUST* use full-throttle accelleration several times per tank of fuel lest the trubocharger and intake manifold may get plugged up with soot/oil mixture.
Also, the use of sub-par fuel or the wrong engine-oil has been shown to contribute.
You may also consider checking your MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor), if it is not measuring the flow properly, you could get that black smoke.
Any advice on whether to change the timing belt (at about $1000) or wait?
Thanks!!
My son bought one of the on-line tool kits for TDI timing belt changes and said it was a piece of cake and <250$.
I'll borrow the tool kit the next time.
It's fairly easy to keep tabs on the belt by pulling the top cover each oil change as the schedule mileage approaches to inspect the belt.
I think you have a bigger problem with that car, however. The oil-pump chain design is apparently flawed and has/will fail on 100% of USA passat TDIs, usually before 100k miles. Apparently it is a multi-thousand-dollar repair.
Go to TDICLUB passat/B5 forum to learn about it.
I understand VW won't sell the replacement oil-chain-drive system/part -they sell a gear-driven system now instead.
Tire rack says they are about 1" taller than the 55's and says 'they won't work"
The 60's are 66.00 each, the 55's are $77.00 each...that one I don't get either, $11.00 more for a smaller tire?
I think I could use a little more clearance under that low hanging Jetta this winter.
Your 205/60R16 should measure out at approx 652mm. Typical tread depth ranges about 10mm on the diameter measurement due to wear. The 205/55R16 would be about 631mm which is close to my Jetta's.
The tire shops will not go outside the spec range due to emission control req'ts but at least in NY the diesel does not have emission testing so the risk is probably non-existent to use a slightly larger diameter tire. You should recognize that your rpms and speed will read low by about 4% so don't drive on the "edge". My Jetta reads low by about 3-4% anyway, at least that's what all the radar checkpoint displays say.
I'd try the 60's!
Not my Jetta, but it is such a beautiful photo, I thought you would all like to see it anyway.
I will be shopping for that hood deflector today..on the 2500 mile trip home with my mint white Jetta from Texas last week, I picked up multiple rock dings right down to the metal, and who knows how many bits of flying crap hit the windshield.
Anyway, thanks for all the input on this, I like the idea of going with the 15" steelies and 195 65 15's, a set of 4, Tire Rack balanced, installed and shipped comes to $529.56.
At only $132.00 each that seems to be the best deal around for new snows, rims, balanced, installed and shipped to the door..
The same set up with the 16" wheels is $100.00 more and the tires overall numbers are pretty much the same. I assume the disk brake system will tuck into the 15" rims without a problem.
I'm looking at the General Altimax Arctic, or the Firestone Winterforce, both have a very aggressive directional tread that is similar to the Nokia's I have on our 2007 Nissan Versa.
(those really kill my already bad mpg's in that car but the tires are great)