Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Phil
below to see for yourself that Honda did infact
change to a smaller filter. The site will show
the smaller filter with the same part or order
number of 15400-POH-305.
http://www.hondaaccessories.com/odyext02.html
http://www.handa-accessories.com/odymaint02.html
By the way, the dealer charged me $5.66 per filter which included a crush washer. I guess I will be a repeat customer with them for this item. I just wish the parts guy had said something. I had even remarked to my son how small they were when I bought them. Oh well!
Phil
Having said that, it has also been very reliable engine-wise. Always starts,takes a beating on our awful country roads and handling is excellent. Question is, anyone have any higher mileage vans that, once the kinks are out, have proven to have been worth keeping? Mine is an LX so no wierd door problems-don't need the toys.
Just replaced front brake pads, have relatively smooth ride and quiet rear brakes so am thinking of trading in while all is well for 2004 Sienna (going to Toyota since our trouble-free 1997 T-100 with 120,000+ miles rides smoother than the van) or saving $$$ and keeping the van til it drops. Oh yeah, they want amost $1000 for timing belt tune-up at 105,000 miles!
Thanks for your time/input!
I feel I need to decide before the value tanks after the van reaches 100,000.
1. removing the heating knobs- 3 of them
2. prying on the right hand of the panel where the right heating knob was located- carefully i had the gear shirter placed on the 1 position-keep your feet on the brakes- to easily remove the panel. keep everything in tacked and don't remove any wiring-just pry away to see 4 screws
3. i removed the four screws plus the 2 screws above the steering wheel.
4. now pry the other panel which was held by the 4 screws-starting from the right hand side.
5. the tough part finding the very small light bulb with the base colored grey-turn counter countwise and remove the old bulb- insert the new bulb-carefully not dropping it- keeping turning bulb into it fits into slot-if done correctly the clock will light immediately.
6. wow! now you can see your clock again- assembly everything back in reverse over
7. the task took me about 30 minutes
i should have visited this site before having the honda mechanic try to teach me some trick
I made an appointment to drop off my '02 Odyssey for the tensioner recall. I bring it in promptly at 8:30 am when they scheduled me. There's this long line of "losers" all waiting to check their car in for service. I say "losers" because they have to wait in these long lines and pay a huge premium to have a guy with a tie put a number on top of the car.
I get no curtesey rental car and after waiting 1 hour for the shutle I decided to try and take the bus home.
At the end of the day, I get a call to inform me that they were not able to perform the 3 hour task on my car that I left with them ALL day. I too am a loser without my car while it sits in the Honda service parking lot.
Los Gatos Honda; home of the dealer mark up
I am not able to figure out how to get airflow just with FAN WITHOUT CLIMATE CONTROL. Basically I would like to get outside air to get into car through intake(not through windows, because I have back and shoulder problem). When I swicht Climate controll off I am not able to use fan. When Fan is on - Climate controll is starting working... Does anyone have solution?
Good luck!
We have taken our Odyssey from coast to coast and it has performed like a champ. It truly is a magnificient van! I have been very happy with it.
Steve, Host
2001 Handbook defines "severe" driving as driving mainly in severe conditions. Driving occasionally in severe conditions, one can use the normal maintenance schedule. OK
Living in Mesa, AZ, daytime temp gets above 90F from May to September, which is one of the conditions Honda considers to be severe. My driving style is fairly mixed; mostly commuting (25 hwy miles each way), some start-stop driving at weekends, 2 or 3 road trips per year. 12500 miles per year total.
I'd like some help deciding which schedule to follow. I can guess what my ($85/hr) Honda dealer will say. What about other owners in hot climates?
One solution would be to follow the normal schedule October-April, severe schedule May-September. Any comments?
Thanks for the potential fix about the brakes somehow being the culprit on the rattle.....but no dice. I'm wondering if it's ice build-up between the hood and windshield. It's been quite cold here in the NE and I can just see a little piece of ice lodge in somewhere rattling against something.
Maybe I'm just grabbing at straws --- as they say.
our 03LX had a few annoying rattles at about the 1K mark which were quickly identified and fixed by the dealership closest to our home.
one was a rattle which occurred when i got going about 35-40MPH and sounded at first like it might be at a point high on the driver door or rain gutter.
however after sitting in the passenger seat with my wife driving, i could tell it was really comming from somewhere more near the driver's footwell. i thought it might be the front driver side wheel well plastic cover.
i mentioned this to a service rep and he heard that one right away during a test drive with me and was confident he could fix it. get this: when i initially drove down to the dealership - it wasn't happening. i told this to the service writer because i didn't want to waste anyone's time. he insisted a tech ride with me.
...a good foreshadowing of success...
and during that drive with the tech (he was driving), he asked me if i heard an additional intermittent but very low level rattle when we went over small bumps... on the passenger side front. i said i could, and while i had heard it before, it rarely occurred.
he had a smile on his face and said he'd see what could be done about that one too.
when i came back to get the car a few hours later, he said they fixed the mounting of the hood release cable, but also disassembled something at the front passenger strut tower and lubricated the interface between the strut and the body. he said it's something he's seen before.
remember the smile? i think he knew the probable cause of both rattles before we were more than 1/4mile down the road during the test drive.
lastly, i could be mistaken, but it seemed like they added some tiny pads to the rear hatch in a few select places that i didn't remember being there when i initially purchased the car (at another dealership mind you).
i had noticed tiny rattles at the hatch when going over the speed bumps in my neighborhood. with those pads in place, no rattles.
suggestion: sit in various other seats with someone else driving. locating the source and providing that information to a tech could be important in locating the root cause.
a good customer-focused dealership and a knowlegable / confident tech rep in the car with you during a test drive so you can both experience the noise: well there's probably no substitute.
the only rattles i hear now at 6K are because of a child's toy or sippy cup not stowed -or- sometimes one of the seatbelt latches against a pillar.
may you experience the smile.
The steering shaft resistance varies because the
ground path does not have full contact through the
bearing.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dimple the copper shield on the steering column ball bearing in eight places..
Dont know why your dealer has not tried this yet as the bulletin has been out since may 20th..but have them try this
Let's go USA..........
the Hondas are not any better than a Chrysler MiniVan
Let's go USA..........
Make up your mind. Or was this just a typical basher's post?
Thanks.
_ Alex
thanks again..
_Alex
Steve, Host
One more thing. If you have traction control and spin the tires alot, you will be wearing the brakes out faster, since you will be using the brakes for starting and stopping. My traction control has only come on a couple of times since I have owned my van.
Remember, nice and easy.
I'd rather replace the pads at $109 than the 3 sets of tires we've worn through (on the 4th set now)at $400!
Rear brakes had the squealing problem so new shoes and drums put in under warratny. Our accord didn't need new pads until 90,000 miles. This van is just very heavy.
Anyone have an Ody with high mileage? How is it holding up? Yes, looking for a reason to keep ours v. the hell that is new car buying.
Another point, I usually don't let my brake pads get too low before changing them. I'm sure I could have squeezed another 10,000 miles out of them, but I don't trust thin pads.
My Accord got more like 50,000+ miles on a set of pads with the same 2 drivers. It weighed much less than the Ody and didn't have Traction Control.
Brakes are not applied when the TC engages, so how do you figure brake wear has anything to do with TC?