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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
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Comments
I thought about the same thing too. In fact, when I thought about it later, I felt I should have insisted on putting in new rotors under warranty or if they refused, to put in new rotors at my expense....rotors don't cost that much I presume.
I think this PC thing is just going over the top folks.
I have no problem with, and sort of like the term grease monkey, and it was applied to me while in college. I'm pleased to be referred to in that way today, particularly since I've practiced as a mechanical engineer for the past 25 years. I take pride in the fact that I don't JUST wear a pocket protector and consult my calculator for every step I take, but can actually turn a wrench, perform some diagnostics, and actually FIX things.
If you don't know who you are, and have a sense of personal value, a label isn't going to fix that. Personally I find greasemonkey to be a term of endearment. I suppose someone could find "honey" or "sweetie" to be insulting too if they really wanted to. -0r under the wrong circumstances.
We waste too much energy on worrying about labels. The intent is what is important. If someone calls you a "mountain of a man", and the intent is an insult because he is saying you're a blockhead and move into action about like a mountain, then fine, be ticked off. But just assuming that a label is derrogatory is just getting out of hand and, to me, appears to often be someone just looking for a reason to be ticked off.
How 'bout looking for a reason to be happy?
Like if you weren't hit by hurricanes Katrina or Rita, or if you were affected, but still have a home to clean up and repair, or if you don't have a home, but your family is OK, or if you've had a tragedy, but you know you're still loved...
However, the pulling occurs again after the tire rotation recently. Now, the two newer tires are in the front when the van pulls to one side.
The Honda service said that I got bad tires again and I have to talk to Michelin's dealership.
I went to Sears. They try to identify which tire is causing the problem. They then showed me that one wheel of the newer tires is wobbling. They said that the bent wheel is causing the pulling.
Well, the Honda service doubt that the bent wheel is the cause.
Please advise what the cause is and what to do with that.
Thanks.
If you isolate it to that tire, you will be back arguing with Sears/Michilin. maybe that one needs to be roadforce balanced?
A new wheel can get expensive (at least an alloy will), so maybe you can keep the offender in the back?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
RSHT is righ about the vibration part. The steering does vibrate at 70+ miles. Honda service did the balance, but it didn't correct the problem.
Before the recent tire rotation, the two new tires was in the rear and there was no pulling. After the rotation, the van starts to pull.
Sears/Michelin did do tire rotation on the same side first, road test, another two or three rotations (another side + swamp+ ...) and road tests. Then they put the suspected tire on the machine for balancing and saw the wobble.
I am all confused now -- is it the tire or the wheel causing the pulling?
If it's the former, I'll have to deal with the Seas/Michelin.
If it's the latter, I'll want to Honda pay for the wheel since it may be the cause of pulling since we bought the van.
Nevertheless, I am "sandwiched" between Honda service and Sears/Michelin.
Your advice are appreciated.
If the rotor surfacing was light, so much so that the thickness still was within the tolerance for new rotors, no foul, no problem. But if any significant amount was taken off below the min. new rotor thickness, now you're basically getting partially worn out rotors vs brand new that were problematic. Fine if it's an old vehicle, not so great if it's new. (Why not just sell them a used van as new?)
I have a 2005 ODY EX-L, NAVI, RES. I have been having a few problems with the 6 disc cd changer. Two of the six slots routinely give me a "disc error" message. I have tried changing CD's, using only factory CD's (no mixes or burned CD's). It doesn't seem to make a difference. I am reluctant to take it back to my dealer at this point. They don't seem well equipped to deal with all of the electronics that this vehicle has on it.
Anyone else experience this problem?
Thanks,
DJ
Those were my sentiments exactly, when I made that original post almost 9 months ago. But, some people do have a tendency to look at the negative side of things.
To all those "greasemonkeys" out there that work on Hondas, DCX's, Toyotas, Mazdas and even Kia's...good job...and keep up the good work.
I can think of no plausible connection between it and failure of the EGR.
The EGR valve allows exhaust gas to recirculate, reducing the amount of fresh air/fuel mixture filling the cylinder. This gives more gas for the fuel-air mixture to heat and expand, without adding more fuel. (If you were to just admit air, you throw off the mixture and temperatures go up. Besides driveability issues, higher temps raise NOx emissions.) The knock sensor is part of the computer controlled/optimized timing. Efficiency improves if the compression is raised, timing advanced, and a few other things that can cause knock, or detonation. The knock sensor is the measuring tool that the ecm uses to determine when the dynamic adjustments to timing, mixture, etc are at the optimum. If the engine knocks, it's gone too far. The knock sensor will sense a knock that is so slight you can't sense it, and at a low enough level to avoid damage.
Being a sensor, excessive impact or electrical input can damage it, but whether or not the EGR functions is not likely to affect it. Unless the engine was running so badly that it beat itself up.
Your thought process is valid, when multiple items fail, there are 3 possibilities-
a) coincidence
b) one failure precipitated the other
c) the first part that was replaced hadn't really failed, and so when the prblm wasn't resolved, the technician (or as I prefer -greasemonkey) tried the next probable cause of the malfunction.
Contrary to a lot of dialogue in tv series as late, there are such things as coincidence -though one should evaluate the possibilities and not assume coincidence.
In your case, I would say it's either (a) or (c), above.
see this honda TSB:
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Honda/1121842800000_1123225200000_05-026/601.html
I have appointment next week to fix wind noise (trim on windshield) and weather stripping on sliding door. Will push dealer for sooner brake replacement at that time.
Any ideas on this I have a 2002 Odyssey Ex with 87k miles. In the last two weeks, the van has shut off twice while driving. Lucky, we weren't going very fast (approaching a stop sign, and in residential traffic). The dealer couldn't find anything wrong but as you can imagine this is a very uncomfortable position. Has anyone experienced this?
Your thoughts are appreciated ...
Anthony
I am curious to know how you moved your antenna outside your vehicle. I would like to try this myself and see if my radio improves. I love XM, but I am very close to canceling as the quality is unacceptable.
Any comments/ideas/suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks
Shannon
Oh yeah, I'm assuming this isn't the normal on/off cycling of the A/C compressor.
thanx justin
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Honda/1121410800000_1123225200000_04-078/index.html
justin
Today, I get to drive a friend's new Charger R/T with cylinder deactivation, I'm very curious how DCX does it - is there a light like Honda? I'm meeting him for lunch tomorrow.
I've driven a couple of the Hemi MDS engines and it's not any different than the Honda; basically seemless. I've only thought I could feel it on the Honda in very engineered circumstances. Basically I've creeped along at low speeds and then tried to accelerate very very lightly. It seems like it stays in 3cyl mode for a bit and then when it kicks out theres a bit of a kick in the power and even with steady throttle it surges a tiny bit (and it's not a gear change). Other than that, I can't feel it whatsoever. And I tend to feel every little thing on a vehicle, having a history in autoracing and such.
Thank for you help.
I don't know if I should be worried about this vibration, it is mildly annoying. If it wasn't a condition of the sale to have the vibration fixed, I would live with it. The service manager has refered me to the GM of the dealership. What can I excpect?
Thanks for any help.
I am having the exact same whistling issue with my 2005 Odyssey. It seems to be on the driver's side, and I have had it to the dealer 5 times now to try to get it fixed. They have replaced the molding and also said that I was missing some clip. Tomorrow I am taking it back in for another try. They told me that they will have a factory rep there for me to talk to as well.
Did you ever get your problem resolved?
When the car is turned off and on again the speedometer problem remains, but the gas gauge is generally okay.
I found a temporary fix for the problem. When driving on high speed roads I aim for the rumble strip at the side of the road. Riding on the rumble strip for about 5 seconds corrects the problem, and gets the speedometer working again sometimes for a week or more.
Sounds like something is loose. Any advice??
Lee
Over the weekend damaged (bent and tore) the underbody plastic shield when pulling back from a parking block. It has to be replaced. Fortunately, it is just a $35 part.
But there was a rash of prblms with instr panels, I don't recall if there was a TSB or not - you might check
Does anyone know if I can request a refund from the dealer if they cannot fix the problem of the door?