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I'm about to purchase a new car for my son and it will not be a Toyota, and when it's time for me to purchase a new set of wheels it will not be a Toyota either. Totally inconsequential to Toyota though.
I bought the 05 new Corolla in the beginning of last year, only a week after I picked up the car the check engine light on the dashborad came out, I took the car to the dealer and they just erased the light and blamed on me that the problem was because I did not close the gas cap correctly; then the light came up again and I had to send the car to the dealer again and they told me the same thing again; the same repeated 3 times, when the light came up again at the 4th time I was getting impatient and mentioned to them the "Lemon Law", they finally "found out" the problem was a small hole at the canister and changed the part, then the light did not came up again.
Unfortunately after 14 months the check engine light came up again, same as last time, the dealer immediately blame on me that the problem was caused by the overfill of gas oil, they said it happened because most of the gas service men overfill the gas for to round up the price, I told them it is impossible because I do the fill up by myself and I use credit card for payment. Now they found out there is "metal fragment" (maybe it is not the proper word) in the tramission, they need to empty the fluid oil and clean up the "metal fragment", this is the last thing I heard from them and they are keeping the car until next week.
I am so frustrated with Toyota, I understand nothing is perfect that is why there is "warranty" policy to protect the car owner, but why they keep wasting time on blaming the car owner, instead of looking into the car problem and fix it at once!!!????
I live in Brooklyn. I purchased my Corolla at Plaza Toyota on Nostrand Ave., but due to the distance from my job, I took the car to Bay Ridge Toyota. Huge mistake on my part. No that the original dealer would've been any better or different.
In your case and despite the frustration you're standing your ground. Hold on a little bit longer because may be the dealer will fix the car right this time.
Also please remember that the Corolla is a very good car and a good value.
Keep us posted and good luck!!!!!!
Have a nice weekend and a great Labor Day !
Thanks!
:sick:
P.s. Also forgot to mention it has about 220K miles on it. my wife really loves it since she was the one that replace the water inlet hose.
I discovered water has been entering my right Rear passenger side from Underneath the car. I Thought i left the Window open when it was raining, But when i washed my car, I decided to spray water underneath the car... Sure Enough, The floor was Damp. I panicked thinking there is a crack in the Frame of the car. To my surprise, After taking a good look underneath the car, It turns out, there is a Round Rubber Plug Directly underneath where the water is. I am almost certain this is where the water is coming from. I will bring my car to the Dealer to confirm and repair it. Is anyone familiar with these Rubber Plugs? There are Four total, Two in the front and Two in the back.....
i have a problem with the cars power. The car lights become very dim, radio shuts off and the car starts to shake before it cuts off and leaves me on the side of the road. I noticed a while ago (6 months) that my battery light and brake light will go on at the same time. When the light comes on the instrument cluster usually gets dimmer. never really paid attention to it due to the fact everything seemed fine. Just recently it dies. Took it to the mechanic and they replaced the alternator, alternator belt, and a battery. Paid around $500. The day i got it back i noticed that the light was still coming on but everything was still bright. 1 week later the car died again. I guess i wasted my money and will have to pay for something else. Damm mechanic(midas). Can someone please help me
Glenn
Cudahy, WI
i had a '95 corolla. as i recall, the tail bulbs were accessed by turning the grey bulb holders that go into the lense assembly counter clockwise. i think there were three per side. they were definitely accessible from the trunk and easy to remove. i cannot imagine your's being more difficult.
However:
Is there some trunk material (grey stuff) that you can pull down which exposes the wiring and the sockets I'm talking about? If you can find the wires, they should lead you to the three bayonette sockets that are twisted and pulled out of the lense assembly.
Maybe my memory is wrong but I thought it was only necessary to remove a couple of screws if you wanted to pull the whole lense assembly off the car, and then, to do so you'd pull straight back away from the car.
If you pull back the trunk lining material and the sockets aren't visible, i.e. the wires go through the body through a hole, then maybe you'd have to remove the two screws, pull the lense assembly away from the body (straight back), then get to the bulb sockets.
I apologize I can't remember it exactly.
You could go to an Autozone and find a Chilton's or Haynes repair manual, maybe a picture there (or ask a friendly assistant at the counter).
As I recall, replacing a bulb (turning) in the front required pulling the lense assembly straight out away from the car, so maybe the rears are the same.
you will find replacement lenses do infact have alignment pins. i know the front lense assembly did, and yeah, come to think of it the rear too... and they were a bit of a bear to pull out (specially the fronts).
i guess when i was thinking it was an easy exercise, i was thinking of my accords. oh well.
as i recall, and i don't want to mislead you, the rear lenses pulled straight back from the body once you remove the two screws. they didn't swing out to the side, up or down, it was straight back in the direction of a car parked directly behind you if there was one.
it is an "interesting" design. saves two screws. makes it a non-trivial exercise for mere mortals to replace bulbs huh?...
i think when i replaced my bulbs before, perhaps what i did was put a rolled towel against the car fender (the part of the body that goes over the wheel...NOT the bumper) and used something flat for some more leverage right where a gap formed on the side of the lense on the side of the car to get the pins to disengage.
am i making any sense?
i bet you could swing by a dealer or independant dealing with toyotas, maybe even call a shop and they'd tell you there are some pins and it's a procedure that takes a bit of force. the parts department could show you a new lense so you could see the pins.
they would probably take pity on you.
BTW: the manufacturer should offer manuals for sale. also ebay.
My Corolla is just 5 months old and got about 5K miles on it. The Maint Reqd light is on for couple days now. Does anyone know what kind of problem is this? I've changed the oil once b4 3K miles. I don't notice any difference on the engine/performance.
Thanks for any tip.
Wangs04
I think I found the resolution, some have posted on this forum with the same problem, to correct MAINT REQD light. I will try to reset the ODO as soon as I have a chance.
Wangs04
Thanks for the tip.
Wangs04
There was metal in the transmission so the dealer needed to empty the transmission fluid and cleaned up the metal. The main reason why the dealer holding up my car for two weeks because my car got scratched while they were fixing it so they had to take it to the body shop.
Hope my headache is over. Thanks for your mentally support.
I am in need of some urgent help. My 2004 Auto Corolla Sedan stalls and has trouble starting. The major problem is that it has not duplicated any problems whilst at the dealers, even when they had it for a week!
It stalls in park, reverse and drive, always at low speed or whilst idling, and usually a few seconds to a few minutes after the car has been started. it has stalled whilst driving through car parks, whilst sitting ont he driveway, whilst backing out from car spaces, and i don't live in a cold climate either!
Often i have trouble starting the car, with it cranking but not turning over, and then needing to accelarate whilst turning the key to get it going! And sometimes it doesn't start at all.
My local dealer have been very helpful, but toyota technical doesn't believe them, and because they haven't actually seen the problem, they are unsure what to fix.
So far they have checked all the 'usuals' and swapped the ECU, only for my car to STILL stall and have issues starting! I now have the original ECU back, and it's been 3 days without a problem. Usually i get about 2 weeks of perfect car and then a few days of hell. And i baby this car! Always good fuel, serviced properly - by toyota!
Any suggestions or solutions!?! I'm going insane as i spent all my money on a 'good' car so i wouldn't have these kinds of problems! i think it could be a :lemon: but how can i prove this?
Thanks
Perhaps someone out there has a pretty good idea what the problem is or what causing the battery light come on. Any suggestions or remedy is greatly appreciated. Thank you. Prima Donna
Hopefully, that will solve it. Thanks a million and take care.
you can go to an autozone and have them put the alternator and battery under a load test. since your battery is new, you'll probably have no issue there. most likely, alternator.
that said, i suppose it's possible the ignition switch could be going bad, or a main relay, but more than likely it's the alternator.
It has 107,000 milles on it. Very clean. Seems to run well.
My questions are... How reliable is it? Did I make a good choise?
I would appreciate receiving some comments about the Corolla, especially that year if possible. I don't know to much about cars and it's my first one and I'm a bit scared.
make sure you regularly change the oil. if you are burning a bit of oil, you might change your PCV valve. check your engine air filter. change if dirty. both the PCV valve and air filter are cheap.