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Did you ever replace? was it hard?
I got a oil change and since then it started.
Also the door locks won't go down..so it must be that.
I just need a good map for all those hoses!
I use rotella T full synthetic 5w-40 oil so I might not have to worry about coking the turbo but...
With diesel so high I don't want to idle unnecessarily, but at the same time I don't want to shorten my turbo's life.
http://www.manualsunlimited.com/product_info.php?cPath=46_70_135&products_id=118- 53
I'm thinking of the three-volume set--Engine, Chassis and Maintenance---they run about $300 I think.
I have no idea.
I can't afford to pick up an entire set of manuals, nor can I bring it to the dealership (I've yet to find some shadetree guy who knows these cars in Upstate NY). All the fuses are intact and it gave me no trouble driving 4 miles back to my house from school. The faint buzzing would stop when the blinker went on. This is a '92 300D... does anybody know where I should start looking to solve this???
This all started after I was working on the passenger side door lock mechanism. It looks like it was previously worked on and I had to make some adjustments to make it function properly. The vacuum actuator for that door lock seems to work OK. I even saw it lock when I locked the driver side door. (That's when the trunk lid locked and now it won't unlock.)
The power brakes work fine. I disconnected the main line from the vacuum pump and there is plenty of suction.
Any idea how to open the trunk lid? How do you trouble-shoot the vacuum system for leaks? There seems to be miles of vacuum tubes in this thing!
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
Doug
I don't know how else to explain.
Assuming you have the original key....
The original ignition and trunk key are the same.
this is a reply and a question. I own a 1985 300D (also called a TD) with a vacuum system. While converting the car to run on waste veg. oil, I removed some of the vacuum hosing that was brittle and fractured. I experienced the same problems (no shut off, locks malfunctioned, etc .) From what I understand of my 300 D and assuming the vacuum systems are the same for both vehicles, it is without a doubt the vacuum system that is your problem. There is a fuel shut off diaphragm that is controlled by vacuum pressure, and the locks (including the trunk and fuel door), and the transmission, and a few other things are all tied into the system. You do not want the problem to persist by just making the locks manual and opening the hood and using the choke every time you shut down. For one, the transmission does not function properly and it may lead to irreversible damage from what I understand. I would suggest checking all of the tubing and connections under the hood first, look for cracks and feel around connections while the car is running for a bit of air leaking from all connections (it may be sucking or blowing). Putting a bit of veg oil or water on a suspected crack or loose connection might show some bubbling and confirm any suspicions. If the problem is not there, then your life just got complicated, because there is a lot of tubing imbedded in and under the car that requires a jack and removing some door and other panels.
if you can get your hands on a vacuum system diagram, then by all means use it. I have a CD manual and it allows you to access the Mercedes Benz online library. Unfortunately, I have not been able to track down a complete vacuum system diagram to help me re plumb my entire front end.
IF ANYONE HAS AN ELABORATE VACUUM SYSTEM DIAGRAM FOR 300 SERIES, OR KNOWS HOW TO LOCATE IT IN THE MB ONLINE LIBRARY, PLEASE RESPOND TO THIS POST. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I hope this helped,
zak
http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/Chassis/80-900.pdf
-Ryan
It's like buying an IBM workstation or server class computer, the manuals always look the same and have an almost overwhelming amount of information.
I appreciate the help and support. I believe I can track those diagrams down in my manual if I look hard enough. I'm slightly confused though. The diagram seems to have some of the vacuum elements of the front end, but not all. I do not see the fuel shut off diaphragm in the diagram for example, and a few other things. Can anyone explain this? Thanks.
zak
AGAIN, ANYONE HAVE COMPLETE SCHEMATICS ON THE VACUUM SYSTEM FOR A 300D, 1985? The one at giant diesel is incomplete btw.
zak
1985 300d, 180,000, veg oil converted
I am looking at buying a 1983 MB 300D and need some advice. It has around 250,000 miles and I can get it for around $1000. What signs would indicate that it isn't worth it? Is there anything specific that I should look for? I have done some minor maintenance on cars, but don't know much. If it starts, should I bother with an $80 purchase inspection? I need a car, and while i have been looking at Toyotas and hondas, this one caught my eye and now I am having fantasies of having a mercedes. My dad had a 1973 280sl that was a lot of fun . . .
any advice?
Things to check for SURE:
1. Climate control system...does the heat/def work when you dial it in?
2. Does the engine start like RIGHT NOW when you crank it. If you have to crank and crank and crank, that's a real bad sign on a diesel Benz
3. Are the rubber boots ripped on the rear axle CV joints?
4. Do all the gears (4-speed automatic) shift VERY firmly and when they are supposed to?
5. do the brake rotors have deep grooves in them?
6. Does the car puke clouds of black smoke when you step on the gas quickly?
7. Try all the window switches, lights, sunroof, etc.
As for rust and cosmetics, you can't expect much for $1,000.
z 1985 300D 180,000 - 5,000 veg oil converted
The transmission in these shift very firmly. It shouldn't clunk or give you whiplash, but Mercedes didn't design these cars like they do today. You'll definetly notice the shift, but it should hit at the right time. These diesel engines aren't made to run at high RPMs and they'll shift pretty quickly.
As he also mentioned, climate control, ELECTRIC, vacuum, and rubber boots are usual problem spots. The rest of the car, especially the drivetrain shouldn't give troulbe unless you don't keep up with it.
They're safe, economical, "classy" (go easy when pointing that word to these ones), comfortable, etc. etc. My coworkers are SICK of discussing that car (especially when I brag about my miles)!
now - what should I expect to pay for a right taillight assembly?
Good point about RPM---these engines are NOT meant to run at high RPM....80 or 85 mph is all you should ever attempt.
Constant hour after hour extreme high speed operation will crack the cylinder head sure as shootin'. These are not Peterbuilt tractor trailer engines.
Next to fix is the Tachometer.
I have an 85 300DT with door locks that lock and unlock themselves. How do I disconnect the vacuum lines to just the door locks?
Also, how often should I be changing the oil on a turbo?
thanks,
Peter
At the bottom of the door you'll see those cute little vacuum motors.
Be sure to plug the vacuum lines if you take them off, and I think you can disconnect the rods from the vacuum motors, which will make the key turn easier.
OIL CHANGE: You mean how often to change the engine oil? I'd do every 3,000 miles
Oil- yep- as Mr. Shiftright says, 3000 miles is "normal"- but I put the good synthetic stuff, and go upto 5000.
I bought a new 1982 300D turbo for $3400, which seems like it might have been overpriced, but I'll let you guys decide.
- 164000 miles.
- No rust that I have found myself, except for a piece on the trunk lid under the "300D" (right where the rubber piece is). And there is some on the bottom of the inside of the door (2 of the doors).
- When I go over speedbumps, the shocks make a slight creaking sound.
- It drips oil quite a bit (I assume it's quite a bit... about 4-5 drops per stop). By "stop" I mean when I turn off the engine for 2-3 hours. The front underside of the car seems to have a bit of oil on it.
- My auto door locks do not work.
- Heat and AC are just fine (considering what I've read in previous posts). And yes, it takes a minute or two to kick in.
- The paint job is okay (a bit of fading) and it's a nice charcoal.
- The interior is a bit ripped up in places, most noticeably the material on the pillars in between the windows.
By the way, excuse my made-up terms for different car parts... but I know extremely little about cars. To continue:
- The back driver side window makes a "thump, thump, thump" sound when it reaches the top and I'm still holding the button... the other windows DO NOT do this.
- Brakes seem good.
- When I flick on my brights, the lights turn off... I found this out going 65 on a dark highway in central South Florida... scared the crap out of me. I had to resort to using regular lights, plus fog lights... worked well enough, but I'll have those brights fixed.
So tell me what you guys think, and please, any suggestions on what I should do next would be greatly appreciated. I will be doing my 1st oil change soon, but I'll wait to see if there are any replies.
FrangoVAM
Peter
thanks,
Peter
Peter
Thank,
Peter
I guess hit or miss is the best way, no harm done.
There were other green and brown lines also- leave them alone.
Peter
A Couple of things I can tell you based on my'85 300D
With the mileage do be aware that the gears in the main odometer can under some circumstances be striped if you reset the trip odometer while the car is moving. Keep that in mind, as you own the car.
With the noise when you go over speed bumps, that may not be shocks. I just fixed my noises that I initially thought where shocks. So if you get a clunking sound in the rear when going over speed bumps that may be your rear sway bar links, I hear that can be a common cause for that clucking noise, changing those fixed the noises in the rear for me. In the front I had more of a squeaking noise that turned out to be the right ball joint that was about ready to fall out. My noises are gone now and I still have the same shocks.
With the door locks not working, that's common and it's going to be allot of fun to fix, your most likely looking at some sort of vacuum system problem either a leak somewhere or a pump problem. A good part of the car runs on the vacuum system and your window problem maybe because of the vacuum system as well, although I think your windows problem is something else. There are allot of article out there on troubleshooting the vacuum system, have fun.
With your interior something I may recommend, if your springs in the front seats are warn out, put pool noodles between them, I did that and it stiffens that back up check out: http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/W123SeatRepair
With your high beam problem if you didn't mind you could probably hold the stalk out and the high beams would stay on, I just fixed that on mine by replacing the stalk, it is really easy (took me like ½ hour), I found an after market stalk for about $95 on a discount parts website - it works great now and I can run the washer fluid with the high beams on now.
Have fun with the oil change, your oil will probably be very black, that typical. I would recommend buying a box of latex gloves because it is very hard to get that black off of your hands. The other surprise you may have is the oil filter is a basket style (not spin on like most cars) and the canister is not placed in the easiest place in the world to get to.
got it, thanks
Peter
I just took the hollow rubber sleeve, and put 1 end on the splitter and the other end on the other end of the splitter- so made kinda "U-turn"
Changing the oil on this car is a disgusting job and I recommend paying someone to do it. I ALWAYS get my filters from the dealer, no mickey-mouse oil filters for this car!!!
They may not fit correctly inside the cannister.
What might this be? Should I be worried?
Usually if a turbo itself is wearing out, it will whine very audibly and you'll also get a lot of blue smoke out the tailpipe when you start the car up. Of course with all that clatter from the engine, it might be hard to hear. I'd guess that ticking is also there at under 2000 but you just can't hear it.
I'll ask my mechanic to take a look next time it goes in, but I won't schedule a visit just for this.
Clock, radio don't work. 4 ways don't work. With lights on buzzer sounds when going from low to hi beams and the gauges move. Door locks don't work. Any ideas? THANKS.
1- HAS A HARD SHIFT FROM 1ST TO 2ND
2- LOOSE PLAY IN STEERING/HAD MECHANIC TO LOOK UNDER AND HE SAID EVERYTHING LOOKED TIGHT.
2. An alignment might help this if the "play" is when you are driving. They aren't sports cars, so you are going to feel fairly leisurely steering