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But again, I have no idea what this does to dyed materials.
The drip under the driver's left foot might be the windshield gasket--original windshields have the Benz "signature" on a sticker on the passenger side, replacement windshields don't and sometimes they mess up the gaskets when they replace the windshield...running some LATEX black caulk along the windshield gasket often works--you can work latex easily into the gasket edges, and it's so easy to clean up afterwards---no sticky stuff! don't wet it for at least a day though.
Another possibility for a leak is the fresh air cowl under the windshield. You can lift that up (remove screws, remove wiper arms) and see if the drain in there is plugged up with leaves and debris. Normally you can pour a little water into the fresh air cowl and you should see the water drain out behind the front tire area.
Brake fluid and radiaor flushes are an excellent idea, and so is checking valve adjustment. I don't think a compression test is necessary if the car starts right up when cold.
On any diesel, if you have to crank 'em a lot when they are cold, that's an immediate sign of a problem.
Vacuum leaks are common...check under the hood for these first...there are plenty of little "junction" areas for vacuum lines with loose hoses and or cracked plastic junction blocks.
Primary concerns for cold starting are an anti-gel in the fuel and a super strong battery. In severely cold weather, you can add a little gasoline to the fuel, maybe a gallon or so.
the cruise worked fine, and rarely did i go over 80--usually drafting behind a semi downhill, etc.
test the cruise on the highway---you may notice it pulse when the turn indicator is used....
you will probably spend a lot of time pushing it up...
check your oil every stop....never go below 1/2 qt low if its a leaker... i also use lucas oil stabilizer
make sure that rubber gasket on the oil fill cap is not cracked/damaged/too hardened- otherwise motor kaputt!
get a pre-trip inspection on brakes, steering..
change both fuel filters if u loose power..
join AAA...
if the odo/ speedo starts clicking, use a screwdriver on the front (dont bother removing the whole inst panel) and pop the numbers back to 30k less...clicking stops!! i only did this because i don plan on reselling it...
never prime your engine with more than a squirt of wd40/ starter fluid. in montana, when running the injector pump dry from a plugged veg oil filter, then switching back to diesel--wouldnt start so i primed with wd40. no start...thought more would help, then, all of a sudden, engine went to 6000 rpm. I was lucky-- didnt blow and I made it back to mass, when a month later the brakes went out..
great car otherwise, tough as nails, great cooling system--
enjoy!
Really? Would a '77 300D have one of these washers? I bought mine without...but I have been losing about a quart of oil per 1700miles.
Would this be normal?
I suspect an oil cooler line's a little loose if not, as it seems to be dripping right under that area.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
-Ryan
A quart every 1700 miles is good compared to most high mileage old 300Ds.
Decided to run to the store in my new smooth ride. Got there and when I came out...it wouldn't start. I've gotten a new battery, and glow plugs. It acts like it wants to start..but hasn't so far...any idea's?
Any ideas what this noise could be?? :confuse:
I did read a post somewhere that says the light would still come on if the fuse was cracked and not getting the power to the GP's. So I will check that when I get home tonight.
One thing I forgot to mention was that after I got the car running again (after the fuel filter change,) I went to the store. When I tried to start it again the GP indicator light would not come on. And it would not start. So I put in a new battery and Glow plugs. The indicator light is working now but not starting. Maybe it is the fuse? That would be nice. I first thought was I had got air in the injector line.
does it start instantly when warm? If not, then it could be a glow plug issue. If it won't start easily when warm, then it might be air in the lines, tight valves or lousy fuel.
All a diesel engine needs is good compression and some clean warm diesel oil...there's not much else involved.
Will it start if there is air in the system?
I know about the primer pump...is there anything else I can do?
The remote starter is just a simple device that allows you to crank the engine while you are bending over it.
I suppose you could start at the injector lines at the pump, to make sure there is no air between the pump and the injectors.
I'm about to pay a mechanic to pull the dash and replace the lights, but if there is a thingy... let me know
If that doesn't work, maybe yours has been long since lost. That was the case with mine, as someone replaced the speedo and lost track of where the petentiometer for the dash lights went. If this is the issue, and since the bulbs make it like reading the gauges by candlelight anyways, simply remove the cluster by pulling and prodding and then splice a wire between the two contacts where the poteniometer should have been. Then, your console, gauge and running lights will all go on when you turn the headlights on.
-Ryan
I drove an hour and a half to a nearby city and back yesterday and then parked my car for three hours or so. when I got back in it kind of turned over weakly for a few seconds and then stopped. each time I tried to start it again the dash lights would just come on and nothing else would happen.
I just got this car a few months ago and when I checked the battery it was over six years old. so I replaced it. unfortunately, the same thing is happening.
does this sound like a typical MB situation?
its a 1983 300D Turbo.
If the former, check your battery cables and your starter motor; if the latter, check for a strong battery drain and a weak alternator.
Also, if the former--you could have gotten a sleepy battery off the shelf. Diesels need VERY strong batteries to crank over.
Thanks.
If the jump start won't crank it, check your cables for corrosion and bad ground.
If you are careful you can also by-pass your cables entirely with the jumper cables and go directly to the starter...but don't touch any metal with the positive lead, of course.
Diesels can be tough on starter motors, although I personally never had a problem with one.
The older the diesel, and the more miles it has, the more you need a really strong battery to spin that engine over quickly. Engine compression is, after all, the only thing that a diesel works on...if you have lower than normal compression, you are going to have to crank the engine more times to get it to fire, and sooner or later all that cranking wears out the starter.
A Mercedes diesel in good condition internally should start up immediately, as in LIKE THAT!...if you are cranking before starting, something's not right with it.
Is there any hope in fixing something like this? Could I clear coat the dash with some sort of professional vinyl finish?
My plan would be to try and clear coat it with auto paint, and if that fails, scrape all clears off, original and remedial, from the entire dash.
Or I could buy a new glove box door (yes, that's ruined as well) and put a dash cover on it.
Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
-Ryan
The problem is I just cant get it to start. I've cleaned and ohm tested all the glow plugs and they work. I've cleaned all the grounds on the chasis and block. I've drained out all the old fuel and replaced it with new clean fuel. The injector pump works and the injectors are spraying fuel. I also just did a valve adjustment today(the valves were really off). I has compression because its very hard to turn over the engine by hand when I was adjusting the valves. I even plugged in the block heater to warm up the engine. It cranks over like mad but wont fire.
I am just lost and dont know what else I can do or what could be the problem. Theres 150k on the motor and the entire car is complete except its pretty rust. Any help would be great. If I can't get it going in a few days its gonna become choped up for parts. (near perfect interior)Any help would be great. Thanks
You could try spraying some starting ether and also replacing the glow plugs entirely.
I will be replacing my starter on my 1983 300D Turbo. So- would you recommend having a mercedes shop do this work or is this a job that joe mechanic can do down the road? What do you think is a fair price for this job?