Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
It may not be your problem, it's possible something else is. MB has a good manual for the climate control, unless your very familiar with the system you really need it.
Sorry if I'm a little fuzzy on some of this, but it's been a long time, and I sold my MB manuals some time ago since mine is long gone.
I can't stress the need for the factory manual enough.
You can check the existing valve for function with a multimeter. Infinite resistance and it's pooched. They aren't too too pricey from the dealership, so it would be very benificial to just replace the mono valve and not have to worry about it.
You might try some toxic injector cleaner---not that whimpy stuff off the shelf, ,but something like BGK-44. Ask a truck diesel shop to recommend something and if he hands you a can while wearing a HAMZAT suit, that's the stuff you want!
But if a $250 investment does no good, definitely bail out of this car. You can buy these very cheaply right now due to the drop in gasoline prices and the apparent tailing off of the "veggie oil" craze.
Looking at 2 300 TE's, one w/about 100K and another w/about 145K. Questions: how can I tell if it is 4Matic? One claims to be, but, there is no badge that says so...is there a gage, controller, etc., in the instrument panel that tells me? If RWD, how to tell if it has limited slip diff, which is apparently an option on these?
Both seem to sag at the rear end, which could be problematic for hauling stuff...is this just a matter of replacing shocks or is there a likelihood of more involved repairs?
Any other items which I should have mechanic look at when considering these vehicles? Used to have a 300D sedan (1977), so, I am not a 'virgin' when it comes to older MBs.
thanks, ray
The sagging rear end is probably a defective load leveler.
As Shifty says, you probably don't want to mess with the early 4-Matic. Failure is almost guaranteed. The system wasn't done right until the 1998+ models, but those have their own set of issues.
Thanks, Ray
Sorry to beat you over the head, but failure to hear the 4Matic message can result in financial disaster for the buyer, so I wanted to make that pretty clear.
I have a line on a couple '95 E320 wagons, both non-4Matic (See? I learn...) Any surprises about which I should be aware? Thanks for any info...
Raymond
I'd say HVAC, engine or systems warning lights and various electrical glitches are what you should be keeping a sharp eye for. If I were buying one of these older Benzes, I'd take a long long test ride and I'll play with every knob and switch over and over again.
As Shifty says, HVAC can be problematic...I think those cars can have wiring harness issues too. Window switches and regulators can fail - not grossly expensive, but annoying. As with any automatic of that age, proof of maintenance is something I would look for.
It's not a good idea to disconnect the vacuum system. If it leaks, your engine won't shut off and your car won't shift correctly.
These little vacuum motors are rebuildable and you can get kits for them for not much money.
It's great that the engine starts right up. If a Benz diesel cranks and cranks before starting, that's usually a very bad sign.
Does anyone know what is the normal braking distance (from 60 MPH) for the 1981 Mercedes 300 Diesel?
Thanks -
I can tell you, from owning two of them, that they stop pretty darn well for a big barge. I had to put mine "on its toes" a couple of times and it stopped as well as most contemporary sedans do today.
So if you're asking because yours isn't stopping well, then you're right, it's not.
Well since you have the panel off, why don't you duplicate the situation where the locks misbehave, and watch what's going on in there?
Does this make sense? At least it's one possible cause.
because the vacuum-operated(?) system is kaput. I though that perhaps (with luck) there might be a rubber vaccum tube located somewhere and I could simply ligature it off so the engine will stop when I turn the ignition key to 'Off'. I'd appreciate any advice,
Many thanks,
Jameslei
How does one access the "Online library" you mentioned? Many thanks once again. James.
James.