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Just my opinion on nitrous - it's cheap, easy, and should only be considered for track use. The sudden burst of power can be down right dangerous for the untrained, and it is hard on the car, so expect problems to arise.
I also just wanted to say that this is by far the best discussion on the board, and the care- free attitude of Miata drivers certainly increases my urge to get one. I've found that not many people understand the car. Most people I speak to wonder why I don't get a Celica or Prelude or something. One guy I know is convinced I might as well get a neon! I find that a unique quality about the car - it's truly a car for the driver!
As for wheels, it really depends on the driver. Many, more I would say, people just drive it because it's a fun affordable convertable, and not so much for performance. In those cases, a heavier wheel would barely be noticed, and spending a ton of money on a super lightweight wheel with performance tires could really just be a waste. If you're thinking of bigger wheels it's important to think about what kind of driver you are before dumping too much money into it. To spend thousands on 15 lb wheels (or whatever) would mean (to me) that you take it on the track. Personally, I plan to have an extra set of tires/rims for autox, and for the street I intend to keep the car pure.
The RELATIVELY simple, low-boost, low-cost turbo that Toysport engineered for the Corolla/Celica/MR2 includes a new exhaust header, intake piping, wastegate and blowoff valve, plus an APEXi fuel management system -- all of which are unnecessary with a supercharger. Not to mention the fact that, because you don't have to worry about the extra piping, it's a lot more compact and easier to install. You can also increase boost by means of a simple pulley change.
Advantages of a turbocharger are: tuneability, even greater efficiency, and, with a boost controller, the ability to increase boost at will, anytime you want.
As for nitrous, it's safe if you don't get crasy (sorry about the 's' -- I lost the other letter on my keyboard....think I spilled some water on it) with it. A 50 or even 75 shot is pretty safe, and will give you an extra 30-40 hp for those times you really need it. I don't care for it because it's such a narrowly focused application (I like to drive with my foot down ALL the time).
Would you say an SC is a more or less complicated piece of machinery, next to your typical turbo unit? (just the two units compared, not the systems they attached to or utilize).
And what about rebuild expense? Could I get one of those TRDs rebuilt for say around $400? That's what the Saab turbo used to cost me (me doing the labor of course, early and often!).
I'll e-mail that technical paper to you -- thnk you'll enjoy it. Also, if you haven't already, check out Overboost.com -- forced induction is their specialty.
Does anyone have some experience dealing with a problem like this? I was wondering if duct tape on the interior side would help?
Thank you. I need consolation. And my baby has only 8600 miles on it, too! Waaaaaah!!!
Not much you can do if you want it to look like new again, except pull the top off and either sew it (not so attractive) or replace it. This is probably covered under your insurance (for a replacement top), but still there's probably the deductible.
There are stick=on canvas patches that are fairly sturdy and watertight (visit your local camping store) but it may not look so great.
This is feasible. I used the plastic from an inside storm window kit and a hot melt glue gun. I left the outside of the old window and glued to that. Silicone rubber would probably be better than the glue gun. It lasted until I sold the MG but it was 10 years ago so I don't remember how long that was. Try it if you're short on funds. Even if you don't like the results it won't cost much to find out.
Seems like no big deal to me. I'd take the warranty and the $500 right to the bank. Nothing on the car you bought has changed, right?
Now that I think about it, I wish I had an offer like that on all my cars!
Mod Squad: I love it. The big caveat is that your insurance company may not cover you. Mine actually asked if there were any "racing modifications" on mine before they priced my insurance.
-juice
-juice
Take it to an independant and see what they say. You can then decide whether to have them fix it and try to get Mazda to reimburse you for it, or take it back to the dealer and show them what nimcompoops they are.
http://www.sandiegomiataclub.org/SDMC/Miata.html
Take care,
Blake7
I did both of these myself, and then the rear diffy fluid as well. There are complete instructions with photos here:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=117212&a=1484919&p=15038845
He used Redline oils, which you have to order. I used Mobil 1 gear oil, 75w90 weight, for all three (gearbox, turret, diffy) and I've noticed a slight improvement at startup.
-juice
Shaw
I remove the oil filter by hand. I use my left hand and reach in from the top. Thick arms may not fit, though. I tight filter makes this tough.
-juice
by the way, all lubricants break down over time.
just an idea.
ace
Those gear oils are 6+ years old now.
-juice
Shaw
Wear long sleeves since the engine should be hot (in order to drain the oil completely).
-juice
ace
I doubt mine would fit in the trunk of my Miata, enough that I haven't even tried it.
I'm sure they will not fit in an MR2, which manages to make the Miata look practical.
-juice
ace
-juice
Yorba - If you are talking about the MR2 Spyder, I think the passenger seat is obviously your only solution. But the second generation MR2 trunk would easily swallow two reasonably sized golf bags.
Keep in mind these are sports cars, folks.
-juice
2. The left taillamp plastic cover is broken, I need to get that replaced, any estimates on how much on JUST the plastic cover.
3. Driver's side mirror is cracked. The mirror itself and the outside plastic is cracked. The power mirror motor seams to be fine. Do I need a full replacement or can I just get the mirror and the outside plastic separately and cheaply? Any estimates?
Thank you
You can find a salvage yard that specializes in Mazdas, or just hit the local junk yard for that lens you want. I found a latch for my center console at the junk yard - piece of cake.
Again, for #3 I would hit the junk yard. It will cost you next to nothing and you can get only the things you need.
-juice
A person who does not take good care of his sports car does not deserve to own it.
i'll second the suggetsion for the junkyard. find the biggest one in your area or find one that specializes in imports. you'll probably have to do a little searching. there's also a used wholesaler/retailer on the web for mazda's. they're on maiata.net too. do not go to the dealer for these body parts. you will be shocked by the prices. i would guess $80 to $100 for the rear lense and they probably won't part out the mirror, so figure $300 to $400.
while you're at it get the oil changes and rotate the tires. if your firned is that much of a bonehead, then the miata probably needs it.
one question, though. you say the alarm goes off??? the battery can't be completely dead, but probably close enough to warrant a new one. and one more... who gets an alrm put in without an ignition kill feature?? you shouldn't be able to start the car with the alarm going off. i'd upgrade.
my opinions.
ace
-juice
I have a lot of tread left on the current ones, but it never hurts to start researching early.
-juice
The best way to tell is to try it out. Maybe even test drive a used one for at least 15 minutes, and see if you can stay comfy.
I'm such a tight fit that I take my wallet out of my back pocket, and can't wear boots! Small shoes are a must for me!
-juice
the first generation miatas top out at about $15K for a loaded '97 M ed. or STO.
as for a chip.... highly unlikely. i don't think that a single one has ever been produced, even for the first gen. miatas that does anything but screw up the fuel delivery and mess with the power curves.
as an added feature to picking up an earlier one, you will have access to many more power modifications.
the miata is a very dependable car, with very sound mechanical systems. the used market is an excellent alternative to paying for a new one, especially when it will be used only as a second car.
my opinions.
ace
I just purchased about a month ago used '96 with 37000 kilometers for 14250$CAN. Base model no options. Never winter driven. So far I love it.
I bought it in the Toronto area.
My trunk wont open, all of a sudden, and its not a frozen lock. I did load up the trunk recently and forced it just slightly, and now this. Any ideas or suggestions if I can get inside any other way?
DESPERATE