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Please feel free to come back here for ongoing discussions about the A6.
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1.) steering wheel vibration above 60 mph.
2.) steering wheel vibration during braking
3.) leaking air conditioning
4.) warped front brake rotors....replaced 4 times....problem not resolved
5.) purchased my own drilled rotors....solved problem at my expense
6.) noisy heater fan blower motor
7.) climate control module failure
8.) drivers/passenger front window infrastructure replacement
9.) driver's manual door lock failure
10.) central alarm system failure...windows going up/down uncontrolled
11.) oxygen sensor failure
12.) leaking valve cover gaskets
13.) secondary fan cooling motor failure
14.) turn signal module failure
15.) vibration in dash
16.)air bag light stuck on
17.) turbo failure at 95,000 miles.....even with mobil1 changes every 5,000 miles.
18.) leaking rear axle seals
19.) front bumper almost torn off from curb stop due to manufacture defect
20.)paint peeled off lower rocker panels almost from new.
21.)upper/lower tie rod end failure at 60,000 miles.
22.) poor remote key fob operational distance
23.) poor fuel filler neck construction...fuel will gush out if on auto fill.
These cars are really a nightmare......totally a lease car that you return in 3 years (under warranty) and never look back. I have never had 1 of these 23 items happen on my 98' TOY camry and don't expect that I will until deep into the 100,000 + miles.
Thanks
ANYONE EVER HEAR OF THIS?!?!?!? THANKS!
Davidreese90@hotmail.com if anyone has any direct answers.
email: balaji.vijendiran@yahoo.com
NormanClayture
Well, here's my problem. I bought my dad's 2001 A6 2.7 with Tiptronic last summer. It's a great car and has only 68,000 miles. But a couple of months ago I noticed that when I started the car in the morning and put it in Drive, the engine revs would speed up to 2000-2200 rpm, while the car would barely accelerate. It was as if the tranny was not engaged with the engine properly and only a tiny amount of power was going to the wheels.
As soon as this happens (virtually every morning at start-up), I ease off the gas pedal for a second or two, then press down again. At this point, the car drives perfectly for the rest of the day. If I drive somewhere, park it for an hour or twon, then start it again, it drives just fine.
Lately, though, the problem has become a bit more pronounced. Sometimes I can rev the just-started engine to 2800 rpm with hardly any power going to the wheels.
My mechanic checked bulletins and found that Audi redersigned the torque converter because the original design was prone to an internal seal leaking, which would cause this problem.
He called a buddy who works in the Parts dept. at the local Audi dealer who said "Yup, that's the problem", and that they stock these new replacement torque converters (at $970 a pop), since they sell one or two a week to suckers like me.
Though Audi recognizes that this is a problem, it doesn't do anything to mitigate the expense of replacing defective converters. By the way, labor is estimated to take 17 hours, since the tranny has to be removed.. so the total deal is like $2,100+... and that's using my own skilled and very fair mechanic. God knows what the dealer would charge.
Have any of you Audi owners heard of this issue or experienced it first hand? What do you think of this situation- is Audi being fair or am I being unreasonable in feeling a bit pissed off?
Thanks,
Andy
Hollis, NH
1. Can somebody direct me to where the cabin filter is? I suspect is under the hood in the cowl, but want to make sure.
2. Also, is the oil filter best accessed from under the car? I suspect I have to remove those plastic panels, but want to confirm.
3. Where are the attachment points for the plastic covers on the engine? I want to swap spark plugs, but don't want to break anything in the process.
I know, I know. Basic questions, but I'm used to BMW's and Jeeps.
-Paul
NOTE:
* Replacement interval for dust and pollen filter
* The dust and pollen filter consists of 2 identical filter elements. Pay attention to correct installation position when installing (direction of flow is marked with arrows).
* If necessary, clean plenum chamber after replacing dust and pollen filter. Pay particular attention to area beneath air intake unit.
* Clean dust and pollen filter mounting slot in Heating and A/C unit before installing new filter.
* There are different dust and pollen filter versions. The two filters have a different air resistance. Particular attention is therefore to be paid to correct version. Control characteristic for actuation of Fresh Air Blower V2 is adapted accordingly in control and display unit, Climatronic Control Module J255.
* Filter with activated charcoal element (as integrated odor filter) is installed on vehicles with control and display unit, Climatronic Control Module J255 Parts List. Such vehicles are equipped with an Air Quality Sensor G238.
Removing
NOTE:
* Depending on vehicle equipment, for certain versions or certain optional equipment (e.g. vehicles equipped with "Global Positioning System"), it may be necessary to remove the glove compartment (it is possible other specific control modules which are installed in this area, e.g. Special Purpose Vehicle Control Module J608 must also be removed).
Depending on vehicle equipment, a foam insulation element may be installed (glued) in area of cover -on certain versions, remove it if necessary.
* Remove cover - A - from lower trim of glove compartment - B -.
NOTE: Cover - A - is held in position in lower trim of glove compartment - B - by way of 4 fasteners. These may be difficult to release and care is therefore to be taken to avoid damaging lower trim of glove compartment - B - on removal.
* Protect floor covering with paper in area beneath slot for dust and pollen filter in Heating and A/C unit in front passengers footwell.
Release fastener - B - and remove cover - A - for dust and pollen filter from Heating and A/C unit.
* Remove first section of dust and pollen filter - A - from Heating and A/C unit.
NOTE: 2 identical filter elements are installed in vertical arrangement in Heating and A/C unit.
* Reach into slot of Heating and A/C unit - C - and pull second section of dust and pollen filter - B - downwards (at tab) and then out of air conditioner slot.
Installing
* Remove leaves, dust and other contamination from mounting slot for dust and pollen filter of Heating and A/C unit - C - using commercially available vacuum cleaner, Suction Nozzle With Brush VAS 6288 (and corresponding hose).
NOTE: Dust and other contamination may cling to Heating and A/C unit. A brush is attached to Suction Nozzle With Brush VAS 6288 for removing such contamination.
* Insert first section - B - of dust and pollen filter into slot of Heating and A/C unit - C - and slide it into upper installation position, paying attention to direction of flow (arrows on filter - D - point towards evaporator).
* If necessary, use steel rule for example to hold first section of dust and pollen filter - B - in upper installation position.
* Slide second section of dust and pollen filter - A - (beneath first section - B - installed) into slot of Heating and A/C unit, paying attention to direction of flow (arrows on filter - D - point towards evaporator).
* Check position of seal - C - in groove - D -.
* Install cover - A -, paying attention to correct positioning in mount - E - and fastener - B -.
* Re-install remaining components removed in reverse order.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------
Maybe in real life it's easier than it looks in the book? Labor time at dealer is only .4 hours, part is $36 dollars, so at the dealer the job might be like $75??
sorry I couldn't post all the diagrams but they aren't very clear anyway. ">
This at least tells me it is in the passenger side dash. I can figure it from there.
-Paul
A6 Cabin Filter, Not The Gold-Plated One
P.S. This will never be fixed. They just don't know what causes it. OR, they know and the only solution is total system and window motor/assy replacement & they are not willing to do that!
So far, every mechanic I've talked to wants to charge me about $90 to have the issue diagnosed. I told them it may have something to do with the ignition coils. They said one ignition coil would cost around $350, and then figure in the labor (30 min - 1 hour). This just seems like a lot of money for a problem that I would not have noticed if it were not for the light to come on.
Any suggestions? Is there somewhere that might fix this for cheaper?
I have found that some of the local shops that specialize in Audi and have the diagnostic machines will do a diagnosis gratis (but they are few and far between). I have had the car to 4 different shops, they all seem to say the same thing but vary in price from $1500 to $5000 for the torque converter-worth doing a little checking around on.
The coils were a recall item in 2003 or 2004 on some models (you might want to check that out).
If it wasn't for the the annoying warning light each time I start the car telling me the Adaptive Light is not working, I would them to stick their $1,000. BTW I think that's just another MFG's scam to get you to have to fix the problem. Anyone know of way to turn the warning light off??
Does anyone also know of a way or had any luck lowering the cost of getting this fixed. How about used units installed at a reliable body shop?
thanks
Scott
I am thinking about doing the job myself, or at least opening it up to to see the extent of the damage. I once did a ring and valve job on an old GM engine but have never tried anything on a modern engine such as this.
My intention would be to do a repair in a reasonable time frame. Am I overreaching here considering special tools, manuals or Audi engine expertise?
By the way, it would be interesting to know if anyone has a comment about the problem: the engine had plenty of coolant (very well maintained), was cruising at 65 and it simply bogged down, I pulled over and it began to steam from the engine compartment. The temperature gauge did not rise until I was on the side of the road. The shop says you can have a leak, lose coolant and burn the engine faster than it can register a high temp. That sounds pretty scary for such a "technically advanced" car.
Pieces of the belt flew into the engine causing $2000 worth of damage. With the dealers help Audi covered the expense although technically it was out of warranty.
I wouldn't take any chances. Haven't given up on Audi - we now own an '08 A6.
As for doing the work yourself, I think if you prepared yourself by buying a FACTORY repair shop manual and acquiring the tools you'll need beforehand, you might take a crack at it. As you say, basically your car is now "totalled" anyway, so what have you got to lose?
However, you will have to take the cylinder heads to a machine shop and have them checked for warpage---this is essentially. And you MUST replace or boil out the radiator---also mandatory. If the heads need reconditioning, that could start to get expensive.
I'd say your probability of success is dependent on the level of your preparation prior to loosening the first bolt.
Finally made the plunge and purchased a CPO 05 A6 w/ 45k miles on it. While I have to admit that I am an avid BMW fan, I thought it would be nice to explore the other side and so far like it a lot.
That said, I have a few questions:
1- 05's include audicare, is there anything I should expect after 45k that is covered(unfortunately I did not receive a service manual, just owners + MMI)
2- It seems as if every 5-7 or so cold-starts it seems VERY rough but then smooth's itself out after 30 seconds or so. Anyone experience this type of start?
3-Checked the oil and it seemed a bit dark. Dealer said it's policy to change oil for every CPO(during inspection/cert) but does audi oil have a different color(sounds like a stupid ques.)
4-Anyone change their own oil on a C6 A6? Any tips? how to remove the skid/plate cover & where to access oil filter.
Thanx in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Help!!!
I would contact Continental about this problem. I don't think it is terribly dangerous but one never knows. You might get some kind of pro-rated settlement out of the deal if you handle it right. The dealer will probably just blow you off and refer you to the tire manufacturer, although a competent dealer will at least help you in the process. You might also check to see if your insurance covers this as some kind of road hazard incident. However, generally it is not such a great idea to make a claim under $1,500 or so.
My Audi , 2006 A6 3.2 Quattro is going off lease this December. (under 30,000 miles) I absolutely LOVE this car and have had ZERO problems with it. The issue at hand is ; Would it be a wise choice to buy this vehicle for the residual of around $24,000? It will have a full year left on the Audi (all-inclusive) Warranty. I have mixed feelings because of some horror stories I read here about high maintenance and repair costs. I was considering a extended warranty for 5 yrs and 85,000 miles (bumper to bumper) but they run around $3000+.
Can anyone enlighten me ?
audi just lowered the msrp on all remaining 2008 A6's by $5000 because of the just announced "slightly" redesigned A6 for 2009. check out the current pricing for 2006 A6 CPO vehicles for sale today that are similarly configured with low mileage, then check the price again in december, it can only go down.
I've seen where others have had the same problem. Does ANYONE know what it could possibly be before I sink money into it? Thanks.
I wonder if there is an override someplace because the battery was dead for so long and the new battery may have kicked in some protector????
All the dealers or repair shops answer the same way. """" Bring the car in"""""".
Any ideas before the repairshop gets it?
Might be the Shift Lock Solenoid. I don't know if you want to tackle this without a book. the solenoid looks in a photo like a small white thing under the shifter/console when you remove it.
You might consult your owner's manual for the location of a small hole to temporarily insert a screwdriver or key to release the shift lever. Most cars have this somewhere.
5 Speed Automatic 01V
Shift Lock Solenoid Switch, removing and installing
Removing
* Remove shift mechanism.
* Remove stop buffer from cable lever.
* Shift to Tiptronic position and remove frame.
* Move selector lever to "2".
* Disengage lever for lock cable by lifting it from its mounting and remove from mounting bracket.
* Press out bolt for locking pawl using drift.
* Remove shift lock solenoid switch together with locking pawl upward.
Installing
* Move selector lever to "2".
* Install shift lock solenoid switch together with locking pawl from above into mounting bracket.
* Carefully drive in bolt for locking pawl.
* Check engagement of locking pawl in "P" and "N" of selector lever using a screwdriver.
* Insert locking pawl into mounting bracket and lock it by feel in both mountings.
* Check locking function of locking pawl: Locking pawl must engage in shift lever position "P" and must lock the selector lever.
* Install frame on mounting bracket (ribbed side must face up) and install stop buffer in cable lever.
* Install shift mechanism.
BTW - I have a 2001 2.7T w/6-speed. 102,000 miles so far (bought new). The adjustment for the lumbar support doesn't adjust. Otherwise no problems.
I have a 1999 Audi A6 and the power windows and sunroof don't work.Is that function is controlled by the main window switch?And is there another fuse for the lights because I tried replacing a fuse and they still didn't work.
Thanks
I'm sure the Audi dealer's parts counter has a diagram of all the parts on microfiche or on CD, which they might even print out for you since you're going to have to buy the parts from them anyway.
Obviously something came loose in the steering column--either the lock, the cam, or the lock solenoid.
2. It can. You using the button to start or the key? button start seems a bit flaky on ours.
3. I'd probably change oil yourself, just for peace of mind. I use Mobil 1 or Castrol (both meet VW/Audi specs - just verify the label). Can't recall if it is 5w30 or 0w40 that I used.
4. You don't have to remove the underside if you hvae the right tools. Filter is on TOP of the engine under that black cover just behind the grey header cover. I'm NOT talking about the black cover that houses the filter/brake reservoir, etc. If you have a fluid extractor, you can suck it out that way via the dipstick. I do that while the A6 is on wheel ramps and it forces oil to the back of the pan. Once I get all I can, I THEN remove the underside cover (silver button screws turn 90 degrees and come right out - easy), open the drain plug and get the remaining fluid. Be careful getting the oil filter out from the top (need 36mm socket IIRC). If you're not careful, you'll get oil all over the engine as you tip it. Plastic baggies are a HUGE help here.
Hope that answers your questions.
I can say after owning this A6 that we will NOT buy another. Even spark plugs (from the dealer) are 19.00 each. I got some NGK's for our A6 online for 8.00 each, which is still high, but a LOT easier to stomach. I'm putting on new pads tomorrow, but they're not dealer. They are aftermarket EBC pads (Redstuff) and they're ceramic.
I'd recommend a Bentley manual if you plan on doing more maintenance yourself. Knowing how to take the stuff apart will be 95% of your problem. If you figure out how to get to the cabin filter, let me know!
-Paul
-Paul