We have had nasty driving for a week now (as I'm sure subkid has up north), and the Forester has been terrific to drive. I actually have only had the ABS kick in once - the 4 disk brakes do a great job of slowing the vehicle, and the AWD just gives so much control. I don't know what a traction-control system would add, but I can't believe it could get much better than this.
Cool, Mike. Someone else did an oil analysis and it also came out normal, was it hypov IIRC?
Faye: I'd suspect a loose harness. I kind of doubt the speakers are on a seperate fuse, but check that just in case.
The Forester's radio is very easy to access, much more so than the Legacy's. If you feel up to doing it yourself, let me know and I'll try to find some pics.
Yes, I agree with your point. Zero friction equals zero braking, no matter the technology.
Christine: sounds like you've had more than your share of problems. But I'll tell you...our 626 has a lot more costly problems by that mileage, so it could be worse.
The seat heater failure is rare, maybe the first I've heard of that. The O-ring seal failure on the oil pump is not exactly common, but I've seen it. Bulbs blow, that's normal for any brand. I'm sure Sylvania or some other company makes them universally, for several manufacturers. Window seals were replaced - their angle can be adjusted. See if that repair is warranteed.
I had a strange problem with my '04 XS this weekend. I went to put my new license plate on the back of the car, and the plastic housings that the screws screw into started turning with the screws so that I could neither tighten nor loosen the screws beyond that point. There is still a good 1/4" of play between the screws and the license plate.
I tried everything I could think of to no avail, and I finally called the service dept. and they told me that this was a fairly common problem with Subarus for some reason and that if I brought it by, they'd fix it. I'll probably do that since I only have 700 miles on my car and don't want to risk breaking something this early (I'm a novice with car work at best), but I figured you guys would want to know and I'm interested to hear what you have to say.
Any ideas? I think that if I was able to remove the hard plastic casing on the back door under the window, I could probably get to those plastic housings from that side.
I did one on the OB and the WRX. The WRX UAO was very good at 5,400 miles on Mobil 1 10W30 (life still left in the oil). The OB's was also good with 10W30 GTX at 3,800 miles. I used Blackstone as well.
yes, I had a very nice experience over the last couple of days. You wouldn't believe it, but that very morning when we woke up with the snow and icy streets, I got up a half an hour earlier, just to take a car for a spin out there before going to work. On streets, I couldn't tell there were anything troubling. ABS didn't go off because I was soft on brakes. Actually, I figured out how bad it was only after I took my small FWD car to work (wife gets to drive Forester ). Then, I took it to the empty parking lot and started pushing it until I brought it into a skid. It was a plain ice sheet covered with 10 cm of snow. Acceleration - no problem. ABS kicks in all the time with the feeling that would be best described as a plastic gear where teeth are constantly breaking under the pressure of one's foot. I can't tell I was impressed with the stopping distance, but I was able to steer all the time. I liked the fact that after being brought into a skid, car was easy to bring back under control. Didn't feel any shifting of torque between front and real wheels or jerkiness often described by CRV owners. Over all, I was impressed with its snow/ice handling ability and a little concerned how fast I had to go to feel I'm in (controlled) trouble. There's no way I would ever, under the circumstances, go that fast in my other car. Forester successfully masks bad driving conditions, so that can cause a problems if one isn't careful.
Over couple of days, I tried to push it a little on the streets, just to get comfortable with the car before real winter starts (FYI - real winter in Canada means 50 cm of snow, -20 most of the time, black ice on highways and on top of that everybody drives like it's summer time because everybody had it enough and nobody cares any more ). It's my impression that, when pushed too fast into a turn or sharp curve, car initially under steers, then over steers and finally gets it right. But it is controlled all the time and easily corrected with only slight move of steering wheel without taking a foot from the gas pedal. And once used to it, it's very predictable.
I filled up my 2003 Forester 2.5X with 87 octane, then didn't drive it for one day. Upon return, it took quite a bit of cranking to start up, then ran so roughly it sounded like only 3 cylinders firing. I then let it sit for ten minutes, and it started up and ran fine. Subaru tech guy told me Foresters need 89 octane to run right.. I've never used anything but 87 octane and never had a problem til this one instance of leaving the car sit for a day. Have always bought gas at this same place. Thoughts?
As your long experience shows, 87 octane is fine. The technician was blowing smoke with the 89-octane comment.
From your description, I'm guessing your last fill-up might have included a small amount of water in the gas. By any chance was the last service station a low-volume seller?
Try putting an inexpensive can of gas-line anti-freeze into your fuel tank. It is mainly alcohol, which binds with any water in the bottom of your fuel tank so that the engine can eliminate it. It also lowers the freezing point of the water so that it can't freeze in the fuel line, leaving you stranded.
I'm not big on additives, but I typically run a can of gas-line antifreeze through my cars about once every other year.
hey, if you live in the midwest or anywhere where gasohol is standard, you'd be running 10% ethanol through your fuel lines everday! I will have to admit it beats putting the isoheet in the tank in winter!
in States where they use summer and winter blends of fuel, spring and fall always seem to bring complaints about vehicle performance - in such States. I think the transition is difficult for the systems to adjust too. After a few fills with the "fuel of the season" the problems abate. Just to be sure, you should always have a dealer check it out. From what I have read/learned, it isn't just a Subaru issue. I think most newer vehicles experience this to some degree.
I think there were a bunch of post here about fuels awhile ago. We do have some fuel experts here at Edmunds that were very helpful in explaining all of this.
Let the fuel pump prime, also. Turn the key to the on position, but give it a couple of seconds. You'll hear a "whirr" sound, that's the fuel pump. Then start her up.
Another thing is have your battery inspected. At a minimum check the fluid level and top off with distilled water.
I need the experience of the crew to diagnose a possible problem. my 98L started to make a whirling noise when I take a left hand turn at speed or a curve that lean the car to the right. The noise only occurs if the car is leaned toward the passenger side, once I come out of the curve the whirling noise is gone. I had the bearings replaced not more than 10K miles ago, I don't know if they have gone bad all over again or if its something else.
This is a Forester L, did they replaced both rear bearings?
Do a quick visual inspection of the right side suspension. Check the boots, look for leaking grease. While you're at it, spray some lithium grease on the sway bar bushings, those can squeek.
You want water with the lowest possible mineral content - hence distilled - the minerals tend to degrade the plates inside the battery and reduce its ability to hold a charge.
My LLBean just turned 50K. I noticed a strange sound coming (I think) from the rear right of the car. When I turn the steering wheel to the left - over a 1/2 turn - I get a scraping sound like metal on metal. Once I straighten the car, sound goes away. Doesn't happen when I turn right and doesn't happen when standing still - need to be going over 5 mph.
So, not power steering? Wheel bearing - but sounds like metal scraping on a rotor? Happens when not braking.
Juice - last guy on the lug nuts was the dealer when the subie got new shoes about 3 months ago. Now, since the car is at the dealer today, and they are checking the brakes, the lug nut torque originally applied becomes moot (since I assume they will have to remove wheels to check rotors). I will have nae recourse. If the rotors are warped, I guess they will turn them if there's enough stuff left, or I'll be buying new. Any guess on what to expect?
no problem - now there's a brake problem? I'm not saying it's the cause, but it bears investigation. If you want, please call 1-800-SUBARU3 with the VIN and get a case started. Please ask the Rep. to review it with me.
I swear, I see have seen more Subarus - mostly non-turbo Imprezas - in the past week than for as long as I can remember. Its like everyone parked their "summer cars" as soon as the snow and cold hit!
Juice - I'm not up to working on this myself, but I'm sure my husband is . I'll have him check fuses. If you've got radio access pictures handy, that would be great, but don't go to a lot of work to find them.
Hmm, I didn't take pics when I did the radio, I used bitman's pics and Pat's advice. But both of those were for Legacys IIRC.
Any how, you start under the arm rest, two screws come off and then the center console tilts up and out. Move forward, do the shift surround. That leaves room for the center console to come out.
It's not hard, just don't use too much force so the interior doesn't crack.
I wonder if anyone out there has any idea or advice about my predicament. I bought a 2004 Impreza TS Wagon 2 days ago. It has 48 kilometers on it. I parked the car in front of my house last night, about 24 hours ago, and did not get back into it until now. It won't start. It turns over, but then won't catch. I am in Edmonton, Alberta, and it is cold. It is -15 celsius, which is probably around 5 degrees or so farenheit.
I can't call the dealer until tomorrow morning. Does anyone have a clue as to why this would happen?
I'll be having a good stiff drink while waiting for messages.
It's too new to start anything on your own. Just want to remind you that your car is covered by Subaru Care, so read your papers to find out what number to call for towing (don't let them try to jump start a car).
Or, plug it in overnight and try again tomorrow morning, you might just get lucky. Make sure all the accessories are off.
Given that I'm a little OC about the new Outback that will be parked outside this winter(chivalrous or stupid, your call) whats the general rule of thumb on starting the car- ie when is it warm enough to start moving- when the temp gauge moves- I'm in NJ so we sometimes get a bit cold here
that's an old topic, you'll hear a lots of opposing opinions. Generally, there's no need for long warm-ups. Definitely, not until temp gauge moves. Unless you get -20c or -30c (highly doubtful it in NJ), you'll be OK with just running it for a 15-20 seconds.
What I usually do is start a car and then go around and scrape the windows. It gives it a plenty of time to warm up properly (and I get my morning workout and warm-up too).
How much gas is in the tank? I am inclined to think that some moisture in the gas, due to car sitting on dealer lot, has frozen or otherwise giving you this problem.
Could be frozen condensation in the fuel lines, I agree.
But wow, on the first tank! You could try DryGas.
Also, let the fuel pump prime before you crank it. Turn the key to the on position and listen for the whirr the pump makes, only then try to start her.
A block heater might be a good option if you encounter those temps frequently.
I've heard several folks mention that the lug nuts were overtightened during tire rotations, leading to warped rotors. I'm scheduled for my OBS's first rotation next Monday. Should I specify a particular poundage, or would I just be insulting the dealer? Inquiring minds want to know.
Just ask the torque specs, pretend you're just curious. If they say 68-75 or thereabouts, you're fine. If they give you dumb looks, ask then to look it up!
Late to the conversation, but I will second (third?) the analysis of a failed rear wheel bearing. I had the same thing happen with my '00 S, even to the point where the replaced bearing failed again shortly (approximately 5K miles) after replacement.
Overtorquing led to deformation of the bearing housing and premature failure of the part. Even if torqued properly, the old design bearing still has a propensity to fail. Try to get your service department to use the Legacy rear bearing. I once posted the parts numbers for these but don't have them handy.
On the plus side, my experiences introduced me to the famous Patti (a/k/a subaru_team on this board) and a great customer service relationship with SoA.
Hope this helps.
Ed (edit: need spell checker or at least more coffee)
Well I feel dumb. I flooded the car. My old SUV was not fuel injected and I needed to step on the gas when I turned the key. Especially in the cold weather.
there have been some good stories around here about goof ups with our cars, myself included. I mayhave the strangest one, in fact. I sustained over $500 worth of damage from a flying wheelbarrow. I'll leave it at that.
If you ever manage to flood it again, just hold your foot to the floor on the gas peddle when starting. Do not pump the gas. It's the same as you would do with a flooded carberated engine. Glad you got it started.
I have a detached garage, which means they don't finish the inside with drywall, insulation, etc. In other words, the 2x4's and rafters are exposed, which makes for easy storage, etc.
Well, I came up with the brilliant idea of "hooking" the front (and only) tire of my wheelbarrow up and over one of the rafters. Worked great for months, and nobody is confessing to bumping it, but it either did get bumped, or I hooked it a fraction of an inch too little. I came out to find my hood and driver's side front fender dented nicely. The handle also put a 50 cent piece sized hole in our jogging stroller. Uhg. The wheelbarrow is now secured to the wall, far away from the cars.
Jim that sounds more like a "diving" wheelbarrow as opposed to a flying wheelbarrow. Wonder if it made any tricks like a twist or pike before landing. 8~)
Comments
Faye: I'd suspect a loose harness. I kind of doubt the speakers are on a seperate fuse, but check that just in case.
The Forester's radio is very easy to access, much more so than the Legacy's. If you feel up to doing it yourself, let me know and I'll try to find some pics.
-juice
Christine: sounds like you've had more than your share of problems. But I'll tell you...our 626 has a lot more costly problems by that mileage, so it could be worse.
The seat heater failure is rare, maybe the first I've heard of that. The O-ring seal failure on the oil pump is not exactly common, but I've seen it. Bulbs blow, that's normal for any brand. I'm sure Sylvania or some other company makes them universally, for several manufacturers. Window seals were replaced - their angle can be adjusted. See if that repair is warranteed.
Larry: thanks for the update.
-juice
I tried everything I could think of to no avail, and I finally called the service dept. and they told me that this was a fairly common problem with Subarus for some reason and that if I brought it by, they'd fix it. I'll probably do that since I only have 700 miles on my car and don't want to risk breaking something this early (I'm a novice with car work at best), but I figured you guys would want to know and I'm interested to hear what you have to say.
Any ideas? I think that if I was able to remove the hard plastic casing on the back door under the window, I could probably get to those plastic housings from that side.
I still can't believe I ran into this problem.
-Dennis
yes, I had a very nice experience over the last couple of days. You wouldn't believe it, but that very morning when we woke up with the snow and icy streets, I got up a half an hour earlier, just to take a car for a spin out there before going to work. On streets, I couldn't tell there were anything troubling. ABS didn't go off because I was soft on brakes. Actually, I figured out how bad it was only after I took my small FWD car to work (wife gets to drive Forester ). Then, I took it to the empty parking lot and started pushing it until I brought it into a skid. It was a plain ice sheet covered with 10 cm of snow. Acceleration - no problem. ABS kicks in all the time with the feeling that would be best described as a plastic gear where teeth are constantly breaking under the pressure of one's foot. I can't tell I was impressed with the stopping distance, but I was able to steer all the time. I liked the fact that after being brought into a skid, car was easy to bring back under control. Didn't feel any shifting of torque between front and real wheels or jerkiness often described by CRV owners. Over all, I was impressed with its snow/ice handling ability and a little concerned how fast I had to go to feel I'm in (controlled) trouble. There's no way I would ever, under the circumstances, go that fast in my other car. Forester successfully masks bad driving conditions, so that can cause a problems if one isn't careful.
Over couple of days, I tried to push it a little on the streets, just to get comfortable with the car before real winter starts (FYI - real winter in Canada means 50 cm of snow, -20 most of the time, black ice on highways and on top of that everybody drives like it's summer time because everybody had it enough and nobody cares any more ). It's my impression that, when pushed too fast into a turn or sharp curve, car initially under steers, then over steers and finally gets it right. But it is controlled all the time and easily corrected with only slight move of steering wheel without taking a foot from the gas pedal. And once used to it, it's very predictable.
I'll post more, once real thing kicks in.
K
If it were me, I'd yank it out with pliers, then get a slightly fatter self-tapping screw to replace it.
But go to your dealer, yours is so new.
-juice
I then let it sit for ten minutes, and it started up and ran fine.
Subaru tech guy told me Foresters need 89 octane to run right.. I've never used anything but 87 octane and never had a problem til this one instance of leaving the car sit for a day. Have always bought gas at this same place.
Thoughts?
From your description, I'm guessing your last fill-up might have included a small amount of water in the gas. By any chance was the last service station a low-volume seller?
Try putting an inexpensive can of gas-line anti-freeze into your fuel tank. It is mainly alcohol, which binds with any water in the bottom of your fuel tank so that the engine can eliminate it. It also lowers the freezing point of the water so that it can't freeze in the fuel line, leaving you stranded.
I'm not big on additives, but I typically run a can of gas-line antifreeze through my cars about once every other year.
I will have to admit it beats putting the isoheet in the tank in winter!
I think there were a bunch of post here about fuels awhile ago. We do have some fuel experts here at Edmunds that were very helpful in explaining all of this.
Patti
Another thing is have your battery inspected. At a minimum check the fluid level and top off with distilled water.
-juice
I need the experience of the crew to diagnose a possible problem. my 98L started to make a whirling noise when I take a left hand turn at speed or a curve that lean the car to the right. The noise only occurs if the car is leaned toward the passenger side, once I come out of the curve the whirling noise is gone. I had the bearings replaced not more than 10K miles ago, I don't know if they have gone bad all over again or if its something else.
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Mike
Do a quick visual inspection of the right side suspension. Check the boots, look for leaking grease. While you're at it, spray some lithium grease on the sway bar bushings, those can squeek.
Maybe the shocks are due for replacement.
-juice
Why do you use distilled water? Does it make a difference if you use regular tap water? If it does, I will start using distilled water instead.
Larry
So, not power steering? Wheel bearing - but sounds like metal scraping on a rotor? Happens when not braking.
Anyone with similar experience???
Thanks in advance,
Ralph
Owen
Thanks!
99 cents at Wal Mart or Target.
Ralph: debris in the brakes? Though a wheel bearing can make a scrunching sound, our 626's did when it was failing.
grugru: check the lug nut torque. Though if it's warped it may already be too late.
-juice
New rotors at a dealer can add up, $400-500 is my SWAG.
-juice
Thanks!
Patti
-Colin
-juice
Thanks,
Faye
Any how, you start under the arm rest, two screws come off and then the center console tilts up and out. Move forward, do the shift surround. That leaves room for the center console to come out.
It's not hard, just don't use too much force so the interior doesn't crack.
-juice
-juice
I bought a 2004 Impreza TS Wagon 2 days ago. It has 48 kilometers on it. I parked the car in front of my house last night, about 24 hours ago, and did not get back into it until now. It won't start. It turns over, but then won't catch. I am in Edmonton, Alberta, and it is cold. It is -15 celsius, which is probably around 5 degrees or so farenheit.
I can't call the dealer until tomorrow morning.
Does anyone have a clue as to why this would happen?
I'll be having a good stiff drink while waiting for messages.
Thanks,
Anniedee
Or, plug it in overnight and try again tomorrow morning, you might just get lucky. Make sure all the accessories are off.
BTW, where did you get it from?
K
RT
that's an old topic, you'll hear a lots of opposing opinions. Generally, there's no need for long warm-ups. Definitely, not until temp gauge moves. Unless you get -20c or -30c (highly doubtful it in NJ), you'll be OK with just running it for a 15-20 seconds.
What I usually do is start a car and then go around and scrape the windows. It gives it a plenty of time to warm up properly (and I get my morning workout and warm-up too).
K
Greg
Greg
But wow, on the first tank! You could try DryGas.
Also, let the fuel pump prime before you crank it. Turn the key to the on position and listen for the whirr the pump makes, only then try to start her.
A block heater might be a good option if you encounter those temps frequently.
-juice
Oh and for this--
quote: I'll be having a good stiff drink while waiting for messages.
I suggest Crown Royal, eh. Always keep it on hand for such emergencies. Well OK maybe general purpose use too.
-Colin
Jon
-juice
-Dan-
-juice
Overtorquing led to deformation of the bearing housing and premature failure of the part. Even if torqued properly, the old design bearing still has a propensity to fail. Try to get your service department to use the Legacy rear bearing. I once posted the parts numbers for these but don't have them handy.
On the plus side, my experiences introduced me to the famous Patti (a/k/a subaru_team on this board) and a great customer service relationship with SoA.
Hope this helps.
Ed (edit: need spell checker or at least more coffee)
Greg
So now I know not to in the Subaru.
All is fine.
It came from Rally Subaru in Edmonton.
(and my drink of choice is a nice single malt)
Annie
Jim
Chuck
Patti
Well, I came up with the brilliant idea of "hooking" the front (and only) tire of my wheelbarrow up and over one of the rafters. Worked great for months, and nobody is confessing to bumping it, but it either did get bumped, or I hooked it a fraction of an inch too little. I came out to find my hood and driver's side front fender dented nicely. The handle also put a 50 cent piece sized hole in our jogging stroller. Uhg. The wheelbarrow is now secured to the wall, far away from the cars.
Jim
Jim