In fact I've owned both Mazdas and Subarus, and the Subaru parts have been a lot cheaper.
Subaru oil filter runs $4-5 from a wholesaler. The hood is just $125 unpainted. The entire bumper is $150. The cup holder mechanism was less than $20. The entire tail light was something like $75. Touch-up paint was less than $5.
When my Forester got hit I shopped around and found prices that were actually lower than expected.
Mazda was the opposite, though in fairness my wife went to her dealer instead of a wholesaler. A gas cap was $28. Oil filters were $8. An O2 sensor was $220 (yeeouch).
We traded her 626 in for a Legacy and parts prices were actually something that helped me talk her into a Subie.
The description of speed dependent H readings could still be an electrical failure. If at 45 mph the alternator output voltage rises to a value that unbalances a poorly functioning bridge circuit with a missing arm, the guage reading would not have voltage compensation and could read high.
But a blown gasket AND a bad guage circuit could co-exist. The engine temperature sensor itself might be an easy, cheap item to replace as a test.
Anyone notice a drop in their mileage recently? I have noticed a 2mpg drop within the last 3 weeks but the driving habits remain unchanged and my 05 GT wagon has less than 7k miles. Nothing wrong w/ the vehicle from what I can tell.
Hi folks, it's been a while since I posted. I have my 02 OB Bean on the road and like it very much. I am a little dissapointed with the milage per gallon though, I know you can expect to lose some because of the AW drive but I was wondering if any of you have heard of or used the 'electronic chip' that can be installed and is supposed to greatly enhance the economy. If gas prices continue to rise I may take a look at the VW Passat TDI, Diesel....... the costs hurt these days because of the need to use above regular grade fuel on this vehicle, I've been using mid grade.......any thoughts to improve fron mid 20's?? Thanks guys, Fitz.
In the interests of helping locate and repair obscure problems either by repairing it yourself or helping your mechanic repair it cheaply I would suggest anybody that has anything to add please chime in here.
In can be anything related such as wiring, mechanical, or body problems.
I will start with one that had a lot of people tearing their hair out. A friend of mine bought a low milage 6 Cylinder Toyota Camry from a dealer. After he had it for couple of days this noise started and it was driving him nuts.
I tried locating it without success the noise was something rolling around when he started the noise would occur and when he stopped he got it again, was like something in the vent. ducts.
Anyway the dealer concurred and pulled the dash and took apart the ventilation system but no luck.After literally nearly disassembling this car over a number of visits, the noise was found!
A marble had got into the seat track and when he started off it rolled one way and when he braked it rolled the other way.
I can hear some of you laughing from here but believe me it was no laughing matter until it was found it was like chinese torture.
of a CarTalk call, where a guy had a golfball rolling around under the floor of his Volvo. I have had many near-similar experiences and have spent hours fishing dropped screws out of the floor or crevices in the dash/console. Seems to be my realization of Murphy's Law whenever I start a car project....
I have just purchased a new Forester XS to replace a 2001 Saturn SL2 which I have towed behind my motorhome all four wheels on ground. The Saturn did not accumulate towed mileage because at Saturn's instructions I removed a specific fuse during towing. The dealer tells me the XS WILL accumulate towed mileage. I accepted that because I want the XS. Is there a solution to towed mileage???
The wife and I just took in an '01 Forester S model w/53k miles on it. I know the 60k service is looming ever so near. I like to do my own service and it doesn't look like Chiltons or Haynes has a manual for it I've seen some listed for the '00 models on ebay motors for around $25 shipped which gets you a CD basically. Is the '00 model similar enough to the '01 to be useful? And moreover, has anyone tried these CD's and found them useful?
I'm going to need to change out the brake pads shortly, the transmission fluid and ant-freeze. I changed the oil already. The lower cowell(sp?) was the most difficult part of that task, lol.
I like manuals...paper ones but not really looking to spend $300 on the shop variety flavor <sigh>
Check the owner's manual for towing restrictions. It is never a good idea to tow an automatic with the driven wheels on the pavement for any appreciable distance because the fluid will be heating, but without the engine running, it will not be circulating normally and will not be properly cooled.
You can prevent the mileage from accumulating by temporarily disconnecting the speed sensor. Please note though, that this may be both illegal and inconvenient.
Welcome! The 01 was a mid-generation refresh for the Forester, so it has a number of differences compared to the 00. However, they are mostly cosmetic if I remember right, so the 00 manual ought to be close.
You can pay for time at techinfo.subaru.com and download all kinds of things for your car. If you knew what to look for, you could pay for a 72 hour session ($20) and then start downloading sections of the manual that you need (it is possible, but difficult, to download it all in 72 hours -- if you have a UNIX/Linux OS, it can be scripted).
For routine maintenance, I think there's probably enough knowledge here to get you going.
And welcome to the subaru crew bigc, I concur with Craig the changes are cosmetic. Mechanically there are no big differences and the '00 Manual should have more than enough info.
Subaru models in general lend themselves well to DIY maintainance and are for the most part simple to do most routine work on.If you have problems ask here, there is enough info among this crew to get you out of trouble.
I just purchased a new forester xs yesterday and when I was driving home I got up to around 60 mph and noticed that there was a loud wind noise coming from the rear. I pulled over and made sure the rear door was closed. I still had the sound. I noticed tonight though that the rear roof rack cross bar is on backwards (there is still a sticker on it that says front with an arrow which is pointing to the rear). Could that be the cause of the whistling and can the cross bar be removed and put on facing the right way?
Also, the bezel around the instrumentation cluster squeaks really bad. Sounds like plastic against rubber. Is this something that needs to be lubed or should it disappear over time?
I got my 2000 Legacy/Outback manuals as individual volumes. Volume 1 covered most of the basic maintenance. (But it didn't include brake pads!)
You can also find lots of information online. There's one particular site that has photos of most routine maintenance, including a very good write on changing brake pads. Try searching derivitives of "scooby".
You can take the crossbars off alltogether if you want (quietest), or just flip the rear one around. The car comes with a tool (torx screwdriver), it should be in the glovebox or in the toolkit in the back.
Best thing for interior squeaks/rattles is to line the offending parts with nylon tape, felt, etc... If you can pinpoint and reproduce the noise, the dealer can probably fix it if you don't want to poke around in the dash.
You might want to do the math first. I'm not sure about down south, but up north winter blends of diesel run about 20 to 30 cents per gallon more the unleaded. Just last week I used some fueleconomy web site to compare a diesel jetta to a subie, toyota Pruis and Honda Civic hybred. The Subie and Jetta were not that different because of the fuel costs. The Passat might actual cost more than a Subie on regular unleaded.
I average 25.1mpg overall. I calculated average per season, and get about 26 mpg in fall and spring, 25 mpg in summer with the A/C on, and 24 mpg in the winter.
So the fuels cost more in terms of mileage than the A/C does, about double!
I imagine if you unplugged the battery that would do it. But then the ECU would be reset and you'd get bad gas mileage for the next tank. For a long trip it still might be worth it.
Can anyone answer if a fuse would have the same effect?
Appreciate the info! It is for basic maintenance that I would need a manual for. I'll leave the timing belt swap (and the like) to the folks that do that kind of thing for a living
Eric, the only "mod" that car will get is a K&N air filter and maybe an air freshner hanging from the rear view mirror.
Craig, thx for the information on the tool for the crossbars. I turned it around this morning so it is now facing in the right direction and the whistling has been completely eliminated. Amazing how much of a difference a slight change in the aerodynamics of a component can make.
I got one of those CD's on eBay a few months ago. It had the entire official Subaru OEM shop manuals for 1998-2002 and 2003+ Foresters. They are Adobe PDF files of each chapter in the manual and are easily printed. It paid for itself the first time I used it.
craig - that bungie trick is pretty nifty! i installed my yakima/subaru bike racks on my factory cross-bars the other day and the wind noise picked up considerably. do you have any suggestions? i really don't think my 2001 WITH the moonroof made so much wind noise with the same bike rack installed, but maybe i'm forgetting? Elissa
I posted a message about a week ago that the sealant had failed and the head gaskets were leaking again in my 2000 Outback. I brought it to my dealer only to be told that the 8/100 warranty was an "extended warranty" and that I would have to pay for the repair to the head gaskets and "go to Subaru to get reimbursed". I called the 800 number and after they discussed it with the service manager of the dealership, I was told that an area manager would be over to okay it. I called the dealership to see if they needed anything from me and they said send in any work done on the car in 2004. After complying with the request, the result was that I was again told yesterday that I wasn't covered because, "the receipts showed only maintenance, and no repairs" during that period. I went through the roof because the car only needed oil changes, etc., during that period. Furthermore they again repeated that the 8/100 was an "extended warranty", and "you should have gotten this fixed while the car was under the original 5/60 warranty". I called the 800 number again and faxed them the cars entire maintenance and repair history (a total of 25 pages) and I am now waiting to hear from them. My wife is ready to sue and has said this is the last Subaru we buy, simply because of the runaround we've gotten. (we've owned Subarus since 1986). Has anyone else attempted to use the 8/100 warranty since they had the sealant added? What has been your experience? If the manufacturer acknowledges that the defect exists and the owner has complied with normal maintenance and upkeep why won't they honor their agreement?
An extended warranty is an extended warranty. I don't see why you'd have to have it fail before 5/60 to get the claim honored now. It is by definition an extension.
Is this warranty that of Subaru's extended warranty or the dealer's house flavor? Does sound like a house flavor to me, and they're avoiding a claim. I can see an Area Mgr. needed to approve a claim on the 5/60 warranty but on an extended warranty I believe not.
This was the warranty that was announced in the recall letter provided that you had the dealer put the sealant in your car. To the best of my knowledge it is backed by Subaru USA.
Colin My initial call to the 800 number resulted in an exchange between them and the dealer, with the 800 person saying that the dealer's service guy really didn't have too much in the way of consumer friendliness. The subsequent call to the 800 yielded a request for additional service records. I am waiting to hear from them now. The car has been at the dealer for a week as of today.
This is just a quick update. The good people at the 800 number (Barry, John and Patricia) have confirmed that the repair is going to be done under the warranty. The dealer has agreed to treat it as any other warranted situation. Thanks to them for following up so quickly and to my fellow owners for their support and suggestions. One final question, by doing the head gasket, are the timing belt and water pump accessible and should they be replaced at this time, ie: 4 years/65000 miles?
While I was driving up the 805 to LA last weekend to try out for "Jeopardy!" - I made the cut and will be on sometime in '05! - a piece of plate glass flew off an old jalopy ahead of me and shattered against my right front headlight. It didn't crack, but the small round lens on the parking light within the assembly dislodged. Is this worth/possible to fix?
Worse, though, about ten miles up the road, my right rear tire went out. It's one of the stock Geolanders on my '03 XS and they all have only 21K on them. A Good Samaritan - Gracias, amigo! - and I got the spare on in under 15 minutes and I continued on my way. Later, I stopped in at a used tire shop and bought a compatible used tire for a spare, and had them switch the old spare onto the regular wheel. The tire that went out went totally out and was useless, which was a drag since there was a lot of life left in it. For $41 all told, I think I got off easy - but I wish I'd gotten that derelict's license plate!
Anyway, will this spare switch mean anything in terms of my next rotation? The tires have only been rotated once since I bought the car, with no apparent problems. Any other issues to be concerned about? Im hoping I can get at least 50K out of these tires, since most of my driving is on freeways and streets, with almost no unpaved or off-road use.
Make sure the "spare" tire's circumference is within 1/4" of the other older tires, otherwise your AWD system could be adversely affected (meaning it may think there is slippage and that could lead to some sort of damage when it happens for an extended period of time).
I lost a tire at 19K miles in my first Outback, and needed to buy four new tires because I exceeded the 1/4" difference in circumference with the new tire.
I admit to getting old. I know someone was posting either here, or one of the other areas asking about LL Bean Tire rotation. Since I cannot remember wher they had psoted, I figured to post what I found out here.
Over the weekend I was at my dealer getting some service done. While waiting, I asked about the tire monitoring system on the 05's, specifically if you could do the tire rotation yourself (which is what was asked here). The repsonse I received is bring it to the dealer. They have to use a computer device to reset the tire monitoring system so that it works properly. I guess if you want this to work properly, for now you will need the dealer to do the rotation.
Comments
In fact I've owned both Mazdas and Subarus, and the Subaru parts have been a lot cheaper.
Subaru oil filter runs $4-5 from a wholesaler. The hood is just $125 unpainted. The entire bumper is $150. The cup holder mechanism was less than $20. The entire tail light was something like $75. Touch-up paint was less than $5.
When my Forester got hit I shopped around and found prices that were actually lower than expected.
Mazda was the opposite, though in fairness my wife went to her dealer instead of a wholesaler. A gas cap was $28. Oil filters were $8. An O2 sensor was $220 (yeeouch).
We traded her 626 in for a Legacy and parts prices were actually something that helped me talk her into a Subie.
-juice
I'm sure my wife's mechanic would appreciate the reference and maybe knock a little cost off our next Honda brake job.
Actually my fave used to be in TN but they folded. I've always used mail order. Lately I've used Liberty Subaru.
Out of state means no sales tax, which sort of covers shipping costs.
-juice
But a blown gasket AND a bad guage circuit could co-exist. The engine temperature sensor itself might be an easy, cheap item to replace as a test.
Craig
~c
Fitz.
In can be anything related such as wiring, mechanical, or body problems.
I will start with one that had a lot of people tearing their hair out. A friend of mine bought a low milage 6 Cylinder Toyota Camry from a dealer. After he had it for couple of days this noise started and it was driving him nuts.
I tried locating it without success the noise was something rolling around when he started the noise would occur and when he stopped he got it again, was like something in the vent. ducts.
Anyway the dealer concurred and pulled the dash and took apart the ventilation system but no luck.After literally nearly disassembling this car over a number of visits, the noise was found!
A marble had got into the seat track and when he started off it rolled one way and when he braked it rolled the other way.
I can hear some of you laughing from here but believe me it was no laughing matter until it was found it was like chinese torture.
Cheers Pat.
-Brian
well...
ok maybe just a bit. glad it ended well.
~Colin
Craig
The wife and I just took in an '01 Forester S model w/53k miles on it. I know the 60k service is looming ever so near. I like to do my own service and it doesn't look like Chiltons or Haynes has a manual for it I've seen some listed for the '00 models on ebay motors for around $25 shipped which gets you a CD basically. Is the '00 model similar enough to the '01 to be useful? And moreover, has anyone tried these CD's and found them useful?
I'm going to need to change out the brake pads shortly, the transmission fluid and ant-freeze. I changed the oil already. The lower cowell(sp?) was the most difficult part of that task, lol.
I like manuals...paper ones but not really looking to spend $300 on the shop variety flavor <sigh>
Anyway, it's nice to be a Subie owner
You can prevent the mileage from accumulating by temporarily disconnecting the speed sensor. Please note though, that this may be both illegal and inconvenient.
Craig
You can pay for time at techinfo.subaru.com and download all kinds of things for your car. If you knew what to look for, you could pay for a 72 hour session ($20) and then start downloading sections of the manual that you need (it is possible, but difficult, to download it all in 72 hours -- if you have a UNIX/Linux OS, it can be scripted).
For routine maintenance, I think there's probably enough knowledge here to get you going.
Craig
Subaru models in general lend themselves well to DIY maintainance and are for the most part simple to do most routine work on.If you have problems ask here, there is enough info among this crew to get you out of trouble.
Cheers Pat.
Also, the bezel around the instrumentation cluster squeaks really bad. Sounds like plastic against rubber. Is this something that needs to be lubed or should it disappear over time?
You can also find lots of information online. There's one particular site that has photos of most routine maintenance, including a very good write on changing brake pads. Try searching derivitives of "scooby".
Jim
Best thing for interior squeaks/rattles is to line the offending parts with nylon tape, felt, etc... If you can pinpoint and reproduce the noise, the dealer can probably fix it if you don't want to poke around in the dash.
Craig
Eric
--jay
I average 25.1mpg overall. I calculated average per season, and get about 26 mpg in fall and spring, 25 mpg in summer with the A/C on, and 24 mpg in the winter.
So the fuels cost more in terms of mileage than the A/C does, about double!
-juice
I imagine if you unplugged the battery that would do it. But then the ECU would be reset and you'd get bad gas mileage for the next tank. For a long trip it still might be worth it.
Can anyone answer if a fuse would have the same effect?
-juice
Eric, the only "mod" that car will get is a K&N air filter and maybe an air freshner hanging from the rear view mirror.
Here's my engineering solution to eliminate Yakima rack noise:
Just some bungie cord wrapped around the bars 4-5 times.
Craig
Elissa
They are being ridiculous.
-juice
If you hear a distinct speed-dependent hum, the bungie will eliminate that. If it's general broadband wind noise, then maybe a fairing would help.
Craig
Is this warranty that of Subaru's extended warranty or the dealer's house flavor?
Does sound like a house flavor to me, and they're avoiding a claim. I can see an Area Mgr. needed to approve a claim on the 5/60 warranty but on an extended warranty I believe not.
-Dave
This was the warranty that was announced in the recall letter provided that you had the dealer put the sealant in your car. To the best of my knowledge it is backed by Subaru USA.
Joknecht
~Colin
I'm leaning with Colin, dealer might not be playing with a full deck.
-Dave
My initial call to the 800 number resulted in an exchange between them and the dealer, with the 800 person saying that the dealer's service guy really didn't have too much in the way of consumer friendliness. The subsequent call to the 800 yielded a request for additional service records. I am waiting to hear from them now. The car has been at the dealer for a week as of today.
-juice
-juice
Worse, though, about ten miles up the road, my right rear tire went out. It's one of the stock Geolanders on my '03 XS and they all have only 21K on them. A Good Samaritan - Gracias, amigo! - and I got the spare on in under 15 minutes and I continued on my way. Later, I stopped in at a used tire shop and bought a compatible used tire for a spare, and had them switch the old spare onto the regular wheel. The tire that went out went totally out and was useless, which was a drag since there was a lot of life left in it. For $41 all told, I think I got off easy - but I wish I'd gotten that derelict's license plate!
Anyway, will this spare switch mean anything in terms of my next rotation? The tires have only been rotated once since I bought the car, with no apparent problems. Any other issues to be concerned about? Im hoping I can get at least 50K out of these tires, since most of my driving is on freeways and streets, with almost no unpaved or off-road use.
Happy Thanksgiving everybody! - Mike.
I lost a tire at 19K miles in my first Outback, and needed to buy four new tires because I exceeded the 1/4" difference in circumference with the new tire.
Congrats on Jeopardy by the way!
Craig
Over the weekend I was at my dealer getting some service done. While waiting, I asked about the tire monitoring system on the 05's, specifically if you could do the tire rotation yourself (which is what was asked here). The repsonse I received is bring it to the dealer. They have to use a computer device to reset the tire monitoring system so that it works properly. I guess if you want this to work properly, for now you will need the dealer to do the rotation.
Mark
You might actually want to put the used tire on there if the circumference matches more closely.
-juice