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I just wanted to say it is most important to mention the issues that decrease one's experience with one's car, and I just wanted to express how satisified we are with our Pilot. I think we are fortunate not to have these issues YET.
Thanks to all for helping us keep abreast of the issues and helping us to look for if there are issues.
Good luck to all and stay safe
jensad
I reached the conclusion that talking with people on these forums is way more effective than going to repair shops and have some idiots destroy your car. You read the website, you find out that your problem is actually a "standard feature" on lots of other Pilots, so you simply forget about it, and happily live your life !
Even if it's a "standard feature" as you TiaCia say, still they should have made the steering way harder at high speed. If it's so light, the brain must be used to decide how much to turn the steering wheel. On my Accord (and probably on your CR-V) the instinct was enough, because the feedback from the road was way better. The instinct was acting instantaneously (fast, so safe), but the brain needs some milliseconds to decide how much to turn the steering wheel.
Cheers
Did your Honda dealers offer "Electronic Rustproofing modules" ? Mine did.
I got the CM2000 module made by Final Coat, and I'd like to know if you ever heard about the success or failure of such modules. It's designed for cars, NOT for boats submerged in water (early electronic modules didn't work on cars, because they were relying on water as a conductive environment, but cars are rarely driven in the ocean).
On the "Krown Rustproofing" web site (oil guys), they say that the CM2000 is crap, and show some rusty steel panels unprotected by the CM2000, and other steel panels greatly protected by their oil (chemical). I know Krown is good for metal, but very bad for any rubber in the car (or even some electronics, after 7-8 years). What bothers me is that I know that Krown lies at least 2 times on their website:
1) they say that the manufacturers warranties are never affected by their oil (chemical) treatment. Which is a lie, because in my GMC Savana warranty booklet it's written that GM's rustproofing warranty is void if you aftermarket rustprotect the van (using oil or chemicals).
2) when they evaluate their competition effectiveness (the CM2000 electronic module), they test regular steel, not galvanized steel ! This is cheating, because cars are made using galvanized steel, and the CM2000 manufacturer (Final Coat) clearly states that the module will work on galvanized steel only !
Did you hear stories about people who actually used these modules ? It seems that people in Australia like them a lot ... (salty climate, driving on the ocean's beach, etc). Here in Canada it's even saltier (man made salt !).
Now for the questions:
1. How important is the break in period to overall mileage, really? I must say I've never really been able to adhere to the "don't go over 50 for 300 miles" or whatever it is, simply because I probably would have been run off the road even on the way home from the dealer! Is it that critical? My mileage did improve in the '05 after probably 5,000 miles, so I am hoping for the same this time.
2. My dear daughter opened the passenger door into a metal signpost (a "No Parking 8-4" but it's OK, we were parking at 7!) and the door now has several miniscule chips all in a line, spanning about 4 inches - not a solid stripe (like keying). It's not glaringly noticeable but now I know it's there. The "Nimbus Gray" is all gone but I can't tell if it's down to the metal or not. Should I bother with touchup paint? Will I need to sand, compound, additional clear coat, etc. ? (the internet and its endless amounts of info can be quite overwhelming!) I know something like this will be covered under my lease terms, but it's bugging me.
Second: Many of you will gasp at this but I finally washed my car (by hand, that is) 2 weekends ago (and of course it rained within 12 hours thereafter). But while washing I noticed that two of the lug nuts have what look like black permanent marker written on them. I highly doubt this occurred after I brought it home and feel like it must have been there pre-delivery. Of course I picked it up at night, and never imagined I'd need to study the lugs in addition to everything else. So - does anyone know of a solvent that can remove this without damaging the metal? Or, what do you think the odds are that my dealer will give me two new ones?
OH and just a tip... for those of you with VP and the XM radio trial... search the web for XM $77 deal ... it really works - I now have it for the next year at a net cost of $5.34 per month!! Sweet! :shades:
Thanks everyone - I enjoy this site immensely even though I don't post often.
Cheers,
Kay
Re: the black marker, you could probably take it off with a solvent of some kind, but if you don't have any handy just mention it to the dealer and I'm sure they'd do it at no cost. That's a pretty simple deal for the body shop I'm sure.
Is this normal?
You could duplicate a fan sound by sitting still with the engine idling and turn on the AC. You will hear the fan come on under the hood. A steady muted roar. Then turn off the AC, and the fan should stop.
Is that the noise?
This was just a thought. , but probably not the culprit. Engine Cooling fans tend to be active, more so, when sitting still or moving very slow. They are also generally hard to hear when the car is moving, unless defective.
Might try turning the AC on and off when the noise starts, although I'm thinking that mostly anything mechanical would not be "steady". It would increase in frequency or speed as the car and/or engine does. Although anything is possible.
Can you duplicate the noise while sitting still, in neutral, by revving the engine to around 2000 or so?
Might try looking around under the hood, and under the car, for anything that might be "fluttering" in the wind created by the car moving. A loose piece of molding, insulation, mud flap, plastic shield, plastic grocery bag hitching a ride. etc...
Kip
Anyone have a similar sound? Was it the gas tank?
Thanks
Mike
There have been many post concerning it in these Pilot forums. Also, every once in a while, I get a sickening sweet smell when the car starts after sitting for several hours. Smells somewhat like Anti-Freeze. As my heater fan runs anytime the switch is on, I'm thinking I'm actually dragging some of the start up exhaust into the car, if a light breeze is aimed just right.
Kip
The thing I don't feel right is the fabric driver seat (gray interior). My right hip bone seems feeling the problem of something like the cushioning down under isn't padded enough. It is not pain but feel of the pressure point there instead of my hip weight spreading evenly throughout the whole seat. I now started having consistent shoulder pain for past week or so and don't know whether it is related, reflected from the hip up due to seating position not square.
I know it is not my own hip problem because I traded in 07 Odyssey and that driver seat is pretty comfy, no such problem.
Wonder whether anyone has same problem?
I picked up my pilot a week ago and notices that there is rust between the tires and breaks. Anyone notice this?
Thanks,
Sometimes seats aren't lined up well with the pedals and I've heard people complain about aches from that situation once in a while. No sure how you'd check that or adjust it - someone who does a lot of auto upholstery probably has seen it all.
If the seat angle is off, I wonder if you could take a long ride using the cruise control so you can move your feet around, and see if the pain isn't as noticeable.
The rotor sits just behind the wheel. They are round and flat like a DVD and will be shinny after driving a short distance. They can be seen through the wheel spokes. You may also notice a slight scraping sound when applying the brakes lightly, first thing. That is the brake calipers scraping the rust off.
Kip
Thanks.
The Pilot is just 3 weeks old and seat problems, if dealer finds it is true (replicate it), should be covered under warranty. I plan to give the car to dealer a couple of day and let the decision maker drives it home/work to see the problem.
Kip
It looks like the rear brake pads barely touch the rear rotors, like 99% of the braking would be done by the front brakes.
Did somebody else had the REAR brake rotors not perfectly clean after 600 miles ???
Thanks
A higher % of the braking is done by the front brakes. If your car goes for a while without a bath, you can see more of that reddish-gray brake dust accumulated on the front wheels than the rear ones. There is "valving" in the brake system to deal with all that.
I'm pretty sure the brake shoes actually drag on the rotors a tiny amount, even when the brakes are not being applied. (for what that's worth) Also believe there is no adjustment for the brakes, as in days of yore. All that is built in these days.
Just looked at mine, and they appear to be the same degree of clean. But mine have about 30K miles on them.
Kip
This morning on the way to work my VTM-4 light and the engine light both came on. I don't hear any difference in the motor sound or in performance.
Any suggestions?????
It really freaked me out driving on the freeway and suddenly having all the lights start glowing in my face.
Does anyone know if there are "bad" repairs to watch out for in this car? ie; alternators, a/c, heaters, sunroof motors, power seat motors, etc that honda has problems with?
piglet10
In this case it was a good thing since they found a leaking strut and changed it under warranty, which was nice.
tom
Thanx
Spare tire may not be tight.
Something moving around in the most rearward storage compartment that goes across and just inside where the rear hatch latches.
If you have a trailer hitch receiver and the "Tow Bar" is inserted, it can bump or rattle.
Could also be something like a "Strut" or shock absorber. But not likely.
In my experience, the best car is the one never touched by mechanics (except for regular maintenance). Once idiots start replacing parts ... you never know what new noises you will get ...
I tend to agree that they redesigned the tanks because my 2008 looks silent.
Cheers
I'm the proud owner of a 2008 EX-L 2WD purchased 3/08. It currently has 2,900 miles on it. I'm mostly city driving w/some hwy on weekends. I'm a careful driver, not a lead foot or jackrabbit starter & not a hard braker. Since this is my first Honda & first SUV, this newbie has a few questions...
1) Oil life is currently 50%. Manual states when to "truly" bring it in for oil change but was wondering what you all feel is the best time to do it at & is going to dealer best?
2) While wanting to switch from "D" to D2 or D3, find I cannot do it without coming to a complete stop & this is virtually impossible when I am on the freeway approaching a steep hill at 65 mph. Manual states to lift lever toward you but it did nothing so I chugged up a steep incline in the "D" mode. What am I missing or what am I doing wrong?
3) I'm not power hungry but why am I feeling this car doesn't have a whole lot of pick-up & go? I'm not towing anything, the a/c is off, nothing to prevent it from going....I just feel it should have more power as often I have my foot on the gas more than 1/2 way & it still lugs a bit (flat terrain, not on hills)....any ideas?
4) Rear passenger tire light (TPMS) went on. Filled it, wondering is it best to check all tires every how many miles or so to avoid that light? Manual made it sound very serious when the light went on & I was even afraid to drive it to the service station. (note: tire didn't look flat or low but I filled anyway). Just want to avoid other tire lights going on.
Thanks so much!! I really am enjoying this car but obviously still learning a lot. I greatly appreciate your input & feedback~
1) Regarding leaving it in "D," I guess it's ok if it lugs up a hill, or I drop down to 40 mph & I start smelling funny stuff from the engine? That's what it did last time & I just thought not shifting it to at least D3 was hurting it in some way....Somehow it didn't feel right & still doesn't.
2) I am not afraid to drive a low tire to a service station. When I read the 2008 Honda Pilot manual regarding this issue, it sounded as if the tire was going to burst then & there if I was to drive it any further after the TPMS light went on. When you're not used to a vehicle yet and you read something like that, you're in ultra caution mode, I suppose. (Especially being a female out at 11:30pm at night searching for a gas station.).
Again, this is my first SUV (& first Honda) & I know I'll have to learn lots more as I go along. I simply wanted to ask these questions as I know the majority of the people on these boards are obviously more experienced than I.