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Dodge Ram
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Thanks once again for the info. Are the springs still rated for 6500 Lbs or has their rating gone up with the overloads from the camper option?
The Cargo weight listed in the computer print out you mentioned has to be wrong. The sheet I have shows 1373 (Lbs I think it's not clear) while all of the information I've received from the dealers and brochures show a payload of 2780 Lbs.
Ladyblue,
Thanks for the picture. Thats the kind I want if I get one. I've seen some that cover up the entire top piece of chrome while yours mounts above it. If you can find the name I'd like it.
Davids1,
How many miles do you have on your truck? Have you seen any wear and tear on the paint of your hood from rock chips ect. I'm wondering if the Dodge trucks are susceptible to this with their more aerodynamic design. My 91 Ford sure took a beating on the nose.
I chose the bug guard I have for two reasons - 1) I didn't want to cover up the chrome and emblem, and 2) the one I have screws on instead of being taped on. The separate side pieces are only available with the tape, and I was afraid of having the darn things fly off while driving.
cabover:
I'll go outside a little later and look at the name. I got it from the shop that did my cap, liner, steps and window guards. They pretty much picked out the bug shield for me, recommending it over the others that were available.
That print out is not wrong. "Cargo weight" is shown as less than payload because they assume there will be payload besides what is in the bed (passengers are subtracted at a standard rate of 150 lbs per person). Certain options also reduce your payload - when they are listed in the brochures, they are for the base model and a specific powertrain. Adding the SLT package adds AC, power equipment, heavier seats, etc.
Just as a comparison, my payload is listed as 4615 pounds, but my camper printout lists cargo weight as only 3314.
As for the spring packs, I'll look into that for you and tell you what I find out.
where they really did some work to it with the 24valves and all. They did increase the hp and torque in 94,95,96,97 modles, but not enough to make a real big diffrrence. And with only 40000miles its got lots of life left. As for the old style rams, they ram tough, industructable machines, and they can carry alot too. I had a 81 ram and it lasted me until 1996 when I sold it for $2500.00 dollars!. That was the best truck I ever bought, and I know a friend who has a 93 dully 4x4
ram x-cab with the auto tranny and diesel, and he pulls a 30+ft praire shooner fith wheel, and it handles it like there was nothing back there. And the suspension is rock solid, wouln't buge one bit with the fith whell on it. The only down side (to some people), is the engine noise, which I like to hear, but some don;t like it, especialy the older style rams, because they have no insulation for noise. Bside that it a very reliable strong truck.
Do you the actual payload and towing figures for the 93 dodge 4x4 2500, and 3500 dully models?
In my search for a new Ram P/U I found a local dealer who had one equipped the way I wanted, except for color (Flame Red) and the fact that it was on his Used lot. It is a 1999 1500 Reg. Cab SWB, w/SLT pkg. V8, Auto and some other extras. I don't know the mileage as I saw it when the lot was closed. They also have 2 similarlly equipped trucks on the New lot. My question is, besides being a demo or a trade, why would they have a 99 on the used lot? Also, would it have a good chance of still having the factory warranty on it? I know I need to ask the salespeople there, but if it still was like new and had the warranty, and if I could get it for a better price than the new ones, I'd go for it and live w/ the color. I am going back tommorrow to do a test drive and was just looking for a little advice from previous and knowledgeable buyers. TIA!
I'll see if I can find them
I order a 99 ram 1500 with all the goodies, it's the solar yellow sport, on March 1, 99 the dealer said that was the last day you could put a order in for a yellow ram they were discontinue the solar yellow. if this is true how would I be able to fine out how many were made. I have only seen two other one's in this area.
I believe that what the dealer meant is that, that is the last date they can order a 99 Ram with the solar yellow, the factorys have cutoff dates on different options/packages near the end of a model year production. As far the production numbers, Chrysler is the one that would most likely have them, but do not know who to contact.
Good Luck
From what I can dig up, the auxiliary spring packs are good for 500 pounds per side.
dodgeram,
the 93 Ram Club Cabs were GVWR'd at 8510 and 10,100 for the 250 and 350 respectively (the extra zero in the model number came with the new body). That translated into payloads of 2200 and 3600. Still looking up the tow ratings.
The steering wheel audio controls was the one toy I couldn't live without! I use it all the time. What color is your truck? I've had mine for a little over a month now, and except for the creaky doors (still working on that) it's been a pretty great truck.
The older trucks had shorter, stiffer leaf springs than the new design. There was very little flex because of the shorter length of the leaves. In comparison, the new Rams have 60-inch leaves - they can be made softer (in terms of spring rate) while their extra length makes up for the load capacity.
i'm trying to fine out how many was painted this yellow in the ram, in this area i've only seen a couple yellow rams, how many have you seen
i jump in and seen your truck great looking truck
you did gooood!
did you get a good buy on it?
I've seen a couple of solar yellow Rams around here (NJ) and a few yellow Dakotas. They certainly stand out in any parking lot. I guess you would have to ask Chrysler to find out how many were produced.
I'm sure not all quad-cab doors sqeak. I just happened to get lucky! I'm also probably more sensitive to the noise, since my last truck was a three-door F150 that was quiet as a mouse.
BTW, thanks for the compliment. I did get a good buy on it - $500 over invoice, and the kind of treatment from the dealership that is priceless. I really love the truck.
I now have a build date of April 16 and a vin number to go with the change to "D" status. I don't know how long this will take until delivery but I know it will seem like forever! (99 2500 QC Cummins w/ 6 spd)
Ordered my 99 QC 2500 4x4 V-10 replacement for my 97 1500 on Feb 16 and it is being shipped by rail now, pretty cool to be able to trace shipping with VIN/Train Car # on UP & BNSF websites.
Thanks ladyblue for pic, I now have step bars waiting for truck.
Well I've finally decided to purchase my Dodge Ram 1500. Using the CarMeister program through my credit union, I had a local dealer offer me any in-stock or inbound truck for Dealer Invoice minus
$100.00. Is this a good deal? After figuring up the invoice price here on Edmunds, Carpoint, and the credit union's Car WebBook (which were all the same btw), it seems like a good deal. I know they have to be making a profit somewhere (dealer incentive of $500, holdback, ?), my only concern is they will try to hit me up for "additional charges" somewhere. I am just looking for some advice from more experienced Internet car buyers like you guys here. TIA!
rocketjock
We are going to purchase a new 2500 or 3500 QC with the Cummins, but I was wondering if anyone heard if Dodge was going to introduce the 2000's with 4-wheel disc brakes on these models, like Ford does on their SD's. If this was the case, we would prefer to wait and order the 2000 model.
Anybody tied in to the grapevine?
Thanks again.
Cabover
You're welcome! What kind of steps did you order? Hope your truck gets here soon.
rocketjock:
That's a great price. Sounds like you did very well. I paid $500 over invoice and mine was an order. Keep an eye on the final write up for extra charges, but don't fret too much. You're still getting a great deal.
Thanks for the reply. While I haven't contacted the dealer yet as I was working on a deal with another one, it looks like negotiations are at an impasse there so I will give this dealer a call. After reading posts about AutoByTel, AutoVantage and the like, I hope this CarMeiser referral dosen't add up to a "come-on" and then they try to pull a sucker ploy on me once they have me on their lot. I will be dealing with the Fleet Mgr. so, from what I have read here it may be cut and dried dealing. Also, does anyone here know if I should subtract the Dealer Incentive of $500 for Ram Reg. Cabs when figuring dealer invoice on any deal we make? They are already offerring dealer invoice minus $100 and still would like to save as much as I can. Again thanks for a great source of info!
rocketjock
I have the Westin Bars, I have them on my 97 Ram reg cab. I like the fact that I do not have to punch a bunch of holes in my new truck to mount them. Truck is halfway to delivery point on train.
I happened to find out from a dealer that they replaced 29 automatic transmissions this winter on the Ram 3/4 Ton trucks. And that's only one dealer. While the majority of these failed under snow-plowing conditions, I still think it points to a weakness of this trans. to hold up under hard use. I have seen this problem pop up in other user groups and I was wondering if anyone knows how extensive this problem really is, and whether Dodge has voiced any plans to make alterations to it's auto trans. for 2000. I have plans to order a new 2000 3/4T or 3500 duallie in a few months, and although I do not plow snow, I will be getting this trans. and have concerns due to the problems I have heard about. Anyone have any relevant information?
Thanks,
RK
I agree with dodgeram. Transmission failure during plowing is a matter of driver abuse, not the fault of the transmission. Overaggressive rocking between forward and reverse, not keeping the grille unobstructed for ventilation, and diving into snowbanks (instead of slow, smooth plowing) will all kill an automatic in its first winter.
heard that there's some problems with this axle
ratio and a limited slip differential. I plan only occasional towing so I prefer the lower axle ratio for better mpg. Does anyone know of problems with the LSD at this axle ratio?
I hauled my first heavy load today. About 1000 lbs of rock. The 360 V8 with automatic pulled like a champ. I had the O/D off and I could barely feel the load. The truck still had great power and accelleration. It road like a dream with some weight on the rear springs. This truck is a great hauler.
Rich
Did a little investigation into this tranny problem on the 3/4T Rams. Another dealer I visited replaced 16 of them himself, and he said every one was from plowing snow, and the problem in each case was the "reverse bands" were burnt up, whatever they are...
Trying to be fair here...
RK
cdean, you're almost right - it's actually at higher rpm than you would guess. Remember, if you redline first gear or reverse in 4-low, you MIGHT be doing 20 mph or so in a gasoline engine, and maybe 8 mph in a diesel. Add in the plow blade blocking airflow to the radiator and transmission coolers, and onstant shifting between forward and reverse, and it's easy to see why you can overheat an automatic quickly IF you didn't plan your plowing task correctly. When you're plowing a street, you will almost never back up. Conversely, if you're plowing a small parking lot with too large a truck, you will be shifting constantly, The landscaper that does my bank's parking lot doesn't use a truck - they use their lawn tractor with a small blade. Yes, the driver has to bundle up, but the tractor is almost never in reverse, and it cleans the lot much more effectively than a full-size pickup.
thanks for the info.
Guess that would explain why the doors don't always sqeak. Every once in while, they're actually quiet. Thanks for the tip.
thanks in advance
A few variables here. It depends on:
- how cheaply you can buy the engine
- the price of diesel
- your actual mpg difference
- how many miles per year you drive.
Me personally, I can get diesel and regular unleaded for the same price (both currently around 99 cents here in New Jersey). Ny mileage is about 85% better than the comparable truck with a V10, and with the amount of miles I drive per year (~18,000), I actually broke even, counting in the improved resale value of the diesel, in a little over 2 years.
The motor seems to pull forever, but the transmission shifts too much unless you lock overdrive out.
Also, how many miles do I need to have on this engine to consider it broken in?
We noticed a curious result of a few tests using different rear end ratios. ( Dodge 3500 / Auto Trans ) Test driving on the Thruway at 70 mph on the same road, same day, at the same time of night, the onboard mileage computers reported a 2 mpg increase on the 3500 with the 4:10 rear end. Both vehicles had about 60 miles on the odometer. Only difference was the 4:10 model was a Sport, the other was not. Maybe the computers were not correct, or maybe each engine was tuned differently, I'm not sure. Just thought I'd share that, FWIW.
thanks.