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Comments
i thk i had a similar problem,the pump stops on my car at about 16.5 to 17.0 gal,and i thk the capacity is 18.5,dont know why this happens.the fuel level indicator shows,16.5 when stopped at 16.5,but i fail to unerstand,why the pump stops,without the tank getting full.
When I try to back of my car from the parking lot in the mornings,i hear a fairly loud squeaking noise,it is like this,early mornings,when i engauge in to the reverse gear,and then pull the car backwards to get out of the parking lot,i step on the brakes intermittently as needed.At these times i hear this squeaking noise.This noise is more prominent when i am backing off.Is this noise coming from the brakes,or from the suspension?
Besides,what might be the reason for a funny sound from the engine?cold wheather?
I have 54k and my dealer says my breaks can last at least another 10k. :shades:
Anyone know why the dealer must do it? I assume the tire dealer wouldn't turn away business if they could have done it, but it seems odd that this is a VW-only service. I don't want to pay dealership prices for the service--it's bad enough to have to buy wiper blades, ect. from the dealership!
However, in some instances, the front subframe assembly may need to be loosened and adjusted. Many alignment shops either don't know this or won't do it, apparently due to specialized tools required.
If the headlights STAY on, just as bright, when you turn the key to start, then yes, you probably have a starter or ignition key problem. If the headlights go out immediately when you turn the key to start, it's probably a bad battery or alternator.
And don't charge the battery up with the alternator. Always use a battery slow-charger.
how long does it take to write up flash program- can I get 8 yr computer wizkid to whip me up a new flash program!!
Maybe instead of "drivers wanted" they should consider "engineers needed"
put on 7000km on new toyota tundra in one month (offroad even)and it works way better. Maybe should have bought highlander hybrid for instead of passat
:mad:
not knowing that much about VW's, it seems like an inconsistent fuel delivery / or air/fuel scheduling problem. what about an intermittent fuel pump? what is scheduling the fuel injectors? what about a quirky throttle body and/or sensor? what about a bad connection to the MAF/IAF sensor? possibilities abound.
could your dealer swap out the MAF/IAT (Mass/Air Flow, Inlet Air Temp), TPS (Throttle valve Position Sensor) or ECU? any loose connections to any of these devices?
the problem you have is intermittent. this makes me think of a loose connection, or a part that isn't working properly. i don't think some flash is going to help you. if your car required a re-flash, i'd think you wouldn't be alone.
I am concerned about the surge as it is now winter in canada and if you're on black ice and you have a change in velocity or power transfer it could cause you to loose control- this is the car that my wife and children mostly ride in- very precious cargo- this becomes a safety concern for me.
also $36,000 car should run a little better I would think.
:mad:
I will mention about the MAF/IAT, TPS etc.
thank you
How did you know it was almost empty?
Volkswagen DOES NOT stand by their product, beware! More horror stories to come, nobody is going to believe how bad it has been.
Dave in VA
:lemon:
Sorry, but that is ridiculous. There is a reserve. Unless you run the tank dry -- which you should NOT do since it kills the catalytic converter, or so I understand -- you are NOT dealing with an empty tank. Maybe you are filling on a slant. Maybe the tank is slightly slanted. Is it that big a problem?
This past weekend I drove from north of Boston to Cape Cod - a 75 mile trip each way. When I started the trip, it told me 135 miles to empty. It didn't budge off that for 20 miles. On the way home, it started out at 80 miles to empty. 10 miles from home, it was at 0 miles to empty. Guess what, at the gas station 8 miles away I was able to pump only 13.5 gallons.
It's not perfect.
Did you drive with "Please refuell" message on? How many miles you were able to drive with it and how many galons you were able to put afterwards?
This is not my first and only VW. For the past ten years I had nothing but VW's but this problem I am having with Passat is unique or maybe, you guys are right, maybe it's just me, who knows?
Thanks!
"If airplanes used the same computers that cars do for calculating fuel consumption, they'd be falling out of the sky."
No they would not, and for the same reason - VW does not want the tank run dry. So even when the computer says it time to refill, it is conservative, giving you ample time to do so.
But really the computer is not actually measuring gas flow or gas level...it is only estimating it.
The best way to deal with all this is to find out what your reserve tank holds--in this case, your gasoline warning light IS triggered by an actual analog device--and if you know your usual gas mileage, you'll know about how much time you have left to get gas.
I would never rely absolutely on the computer to tell me when to get gas, that would be a mistake IMO. The light is a better source of info for this critical function.
As I understand it, the computer is actually measuring the amount of time that the fuel injectors are open. So, yes, it is actually measuring fuel flow.
The fuel warning light always lights when about 12.2 gallons have been consumed and the needle just touches the top of the red end of the gauge (which looks to be about a 1/8 of a tank) in my car. The gauge itself is very linear on the way down from full. It's not a car that you can fill up and run for 50 miles before the gauge moves (like my wife's Accord). Fill and drive it 12 miles, and the gauge shows about 1/2 a gallon down.
I absolutely agree with you - I wouldn't rely on a computer to tell me when to get gas, either. And you're right - oce you get to know the gauge, you are good to go. And if you reset the trip computer (there's two trip computers - reset #2) every time you fill up, you'll know exactly how much farther you can go on the reserve. There's no guessing involved (but maybe a little mental math).
It's just idiosyncratic to Passats. Once you get acquainted with the gauge, there's no problem.
Hmmm...if the computer measures TIME of injector opening, that's good, but what about volume?
But gee 1.3% is pretty good, better than I thought.
Yeah, about that 1.3%...sometimes it pays to be obsessive-compulsive.
Any advise on how to proceed?
What year is your car?
What engine? 1.8T or V6?
How many miles on your car?
How often do you change oil? Both in miles and time?
What kind of oil did Walmart use? Synth or not?
Have you been using synth before this?
Was it the MIL light that went on? Was it falshing or on steady?
I haven't contacted the dealer yet. I want them to pay for my coat.
I wish the lemon law were more lenient cuz this car would be a BIG :lemon:
Thank You.
That is funny!!
At our 30K maintenance, we got the standard hoopla performed, including rotating the tires. 2 days later, the rear brakes were down to bare metal. Took the car back, and they replaced the pad & rotors under warranty. (How could they rotate the tires & "inspect" the brakes for the maintenance and miss this??)
Ok, now we are at 46K. We brought the car to a tire shop for new tires, brake pads (not sure why they were so low at 16K) and inspection. We got a call this morning that the rotors are shot too and they cannot be resurfaced!!! How can brakes & rotors be destroyed in 16K of standard commuting???
The service advisor said that they are a wear item and would not be covered - and that our driving style must be hard on the brakes. I asked how it was possible that the factory brakes lasted 30K, and after they replaced them they only lasted 16K????? At that point the service advisor transferred me into the service managers voice mail. That was almost 3 hours ago.
What do you guys think? Should I just pay the tire shop to replace them or should I try to hold the dealer responsible?
ARGGGG! As soon as the 06 Infiniti FX comes out, we are dumping this :lemon: !!!!!
This is my guess.
Krzys
I think we are just getting it fixed by the Tire Shop. We will only be keeping the car for another 3 months.. as much as it sucks to pay full price for a set of breaks we are just not in the mood to fight with the dealer over a warranty issue or pay DEALER full price..
You should expect to do rear pads/rotors every 20k +/-. This is a characteristic of the car and VW will not resurface the rotors, as they are thin/disposable. If you have an independent shop resurface the rotors, you will accept all liability with the independent shop.
I really enjoyed my 2003 Passat but dumped it end of lease due to the following:
Expense/frequency of brake service
Dealerships, while friendly, did not seem to know what they were doing in serving the car
Lack of confidence in VWOA
Lack of confidence in warranty claim process (i.e., if I bought off-lease, would VWOA honor a sludge failure, particularly since dealer service records were terribly inaccurate on paper, i.e. said my car had a V6 vs I4, but verbally said they were servicing car per spec.)
Wound up going with a 2005 Acura TL, as these issues plus VW not offering a comparable choice (New Passat V6 was a late arrival and same issues with this will exist above, I thought the new Passat actually felt cheaper than the last gen. particularly the poor exterior design and cheap interior materials) excluding consideration of a future VW purchase. In general, I find the Acura to be a far superior product that is priced equal or better when most competitors are optioned equally.
Bottom line: $168 in parts and labor vs. $450+ at the dealership for the same VW-spec brake job.
If you value your wallet - stay away from the dealer unless you are absolutely, positively sure they will cover the repair under warranty. Other than that, I wouldn't waste my time with the dealer.
I just a diagnostic done less than a month with the 60,000 check up ($127 for this service) and then another because heat gauges and steering wheel would not show. Heat was there but no fan operating and no cruise or radio on steering... $121 later discovered need for $.27 fuse!
Ok could this second click be a fuse problem? If so which one or any other possibilities? Thank you. All this is going on in less than a month and I was told they will start with another diagnostic.. my third one! Any thoughts? :mad: