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They've already reprogrammed the computer, swapped out 3 engine coils, done the MAF sensor & replaced 4 spark plugs which are pretty black with about 1.5k miles on them.
I need some help here. Could this be a Cat Converter problem? Need to fix this car so I can sell it real soon.
Thanks for any help here...I'm desperate at this point.
the Sandman :mad:
The problem is temperature related. It must be at least 65-70 degrees outside AND the engine has to be warm.
It only stalls out once a week. Although one time it stalled out 5x in one day.
> No error codes in the computer.
> No dashboard lights to help out
> sometimes sputters/bucks, but will then smoothen out -- may or may not stall out after that
sometimes occurs when I go shopping. I turn the car off, shop and try to start the car, but it won't start. It will crank all day long, but the engine won't turn over. My theory is that the latent heat of the engine heats up the broken part while sitting in the parking lot (no fans or anything running while the car is off so the engine gets real hot). After about 5-10 minutes, the car starts and I drive away. Stalls out again about a week later.
Each time I take it to a mechanic, the car works fine. PLEASE let me know if you find a solution.
Thanks!!!
Michael
when car starts idle normal then after a minute starts to jump up and down 500 rpm have to feather throttle jumps
over 1000 1500
have also changed the idle control valve and egr
does anyone have any idea whats going on
scanner is coming up clean and everything else has been perfect
thanks
heidib
Battery good
Spark plugs fire/tested with spark
Have gas
My system goes like this:
Fuel tank> HOSE > Fuel pump/filter assembly (has a return hose from
pump to filter) > HOSE > Carb
Unooked hose from carb and no gas came out when cranking.
I tried cranking again with normal setup.
Unhooked hose from the filter between the fuel tank, and no fuel came
out of it.
I don't know what to trouble shoot next, I'm not a mechanic, but have
been learning these steps via the net, and am now stuck.
Thanks
best thing to do is sell it.
Sometimes if you are too vague in expressing your problem, it's really hard to come up with a cogent reply, because problems like "stalling" can be caused by 100 things. When, how it stalls, etc. is very helpful (time, temperature, what was done before, etc.)
thanks
Euphorbia
The car never actually stalls, it runs rough while driving and while idling. And this starts happening right away, the engine isn't even warmed up yet. It only gets better when in neutral.
On top of all of this my car shifts really hard (auto.) and I've had my car up on the hoist and the fluid is fine.
Please help and give me some suggestions as I am really fed up with my car. I've only owned it a year and have sunk too much into it.
Thanks so much
Came to find out it was a brass bushing that was worn out what was causing the oil to seep through from the valve cover compartment.
Make a long story short 3 diffrent mechanics could not figure the problem out, a little of my persistance paid off.
You may have the same problem, take the distributor out and see if it is wet at the bottom with engine oil.
Once the oil wets the inside 360 degrees metal circle the vehicle will do what you described. It will only get worse, I paid 350.00 for a nissan new distributor, I knew the problem was at the worn bushing but I could not fix it, seems like a machinist task.
Let me know what happened.
Recently had timing belt slip due to loose tensioner. Lined up crank, cam, & distributer timing marks. Adjusted tension.
Now very hard to start but when it does runs quite smooth & quiet until warm then stalls. Before the belt problem the I installed new plugs, air filter, dist. cap & rotot. Also new battery.
Could this be valve damage? Why would it run til warm?
ANything els?
What I mean is does your Speedo/tach just drop down to zero even though the engine is still running and you are still moving?
I had a similar problem with a Bonneville several years ago and it turned out to be a bad ECM. Had to replace the whole computer for the car but it wasn't that bad. Your car is still a OBDI computer so it shouldn't be too expensive.
I would say less then 400 dollars for the part and labor.
Actually, sometimes the guages do shut down, but the engine is still running. It's only happened a few times. All the other times, the engine shuts down, too.
My mechanic told me that to replace the computer would cost $1000. How did you pay less than $400?
Thanks so much for the note!!!!
Michael
Thanks!
michael
Can a trouble code be current even if it is stored under history? I am wondering, b/c I have had this problem for so long now, if it is a possibility?
It's hard to say why a car just dies and then restarts, because you can't check it when it's doing the 'bad thing'.
What comes to my mind is a bad fuel pump which can very likely seize when hot and then work again when cooled off, and the second thing is some kind of electrical failure in the distributor pickup or in the ignition module.
I know my Saab, which had a vane-type fuel pump, would do that exact thing.
It may need to fail completely before you'll know for sure. You can't diagnose something that is working at the time of the diagnosis. :sick:
Thanks.
Todd
Todd