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I have almost the same mileage on my CRD and I change oil + filter every 15,000 miles. I expect signs of wear at some point :confuse:
Why in the world did you choose Lubro Moly?
35 years ago we got rid of this type of lubricant because once you start using it you must keep it. Piston ring wear became greater and those who went back to normal oil produced oil fumes. This was the oil chosen by Citroen in the 60's
http://antarama.free.fr/Documents_relook/04_02_huiles_antar.html
It was the sending unit. replaced it ($71) and it all works fine.
By the way for those on the forum who havent installed a Provent yet, they are worth their weight in gold! Helps with oil and EGR issues.
Get about an ounce per 1000 miles that would have gone into the intercooler!
Dave
I did not realize that there was a problem with Lubro Moly oils as you say. The retailer told me that Porsche drivers, turbo and non-turbo, swear by this stuff. At the Lubro Moly website, it even lists the oil I am using as one of the correct ones for the CRD.
Based on your comments, I will switch to something else when I change the oil this weekend either Valvoline or Pennzoil. Both make synthetics designed for the CRD engine.
Many Porsche engines were of "boxer" design, ie horizontal / flat cylinders. We can understand the need of a 'super lubricant' to reduce the effect of gravity in those cylinders. In the late 60's the 911S had thick chrome plating inside the cylinders where the piston rings came into contact. Diamond shaped oil retaining pockets were machined along the stroke of the pistons, and they did not recommend 'Moly xxx' at the time. The CRD engine is much, much simpler
The Lubro Moly oil that I use is a straight synthetic oil. It does not contain the "super lubricant" you speak of, MoS2 or Molybdenum Disulfide. Lubro Moly still makes oils with this substance as part of the formulation and several are recommended for use in diesel engines including the one in the CRD.
1. Avoid stations that do not sell alot of Diesel.
2. NEVER get fuel when the tanker is unloading into the stations tank. this stire up sediment at the bottom of the tank and you will pump it right into your tank!
3. All it takes is one bad tank of fuel to clog up a filter, I got one once in a gas vehicle, although it had mcch smaller filters, I went through 6 of them before I got my tank cleaned out.
bob
Tell me something that I have not read 100 times. I posted one observation, nothing more. Take it for what it is worth, or not.
I attended a diesel seminar years ago and was told that the main reason for not filling up when a tanker is unloading is because the churning can cause the station pump to pick up water. I have never filled up when a tanker was unloading and I have never found water in my fuel in either of my diesels. What I found in my fuel filter was apparently small enough to get through the station filters. Hence, what is the definition of clean fuel?
I was also instructed to avoid large truck stops that service over the road trucks because of the possibility of used oil being dumped into the station fuel tanks. One of the instructors was a retired oil company engineer. Does that make it true? I don't know.
I just replaced #4 glowplug in under an hour. Was not as bad as I thought it would be. Just make sure the engine is cold as you are working with an aluminum alloy head. Also, make sure everything is clean so no foreign material gets into the cylinder. Make sure you disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery.
You will need the following items:
1. Metric Socket Set with a 13mm socket and a 10mm socket (3/8 inch drive)
2. 10mm deep socket (got one at NAPA for $5.00)
3. Flexible joint for the socket set.
4. One eight inch extension.
1. Remove the hoses from the fuel filter.
2. Remove fuel filter assembly and put it to one side.
3. Reach under the intake and feel for the glowplug and wire. Once found remove the wire gently. Much of what you will do here is by feel as it is out of line of sight. You cannot get to this from the bottom. This job is done by feel.
4. Placed the 10 mm deep socket over the glowplug, then plug in the flexible joint, then the extension and finally the wrench itself. Turn the wrench anti-clockwise to remove the glowplug. I loosened it and then turned the extension without the wrench. This went faster.
5. Remove the glowplug and set it aside.
6. Get your new glowplug and put a tiny bit of anti-seize compound on the threads. Place the new glowplug in the hole and start screwing it in using the 10mm deep socket. Screw in by hand until you can turn it no further. Attach the flexible joint, etc. and snug it down. Do not over torque.
7. Re-attach the glowplug wire, re-install the fuel filter assembly and fuel lines. Be sure you purge all of the air out of the injection system before starting.
8. Finally re-attach the positive battery cable.
My 06 is in the shop now with the second glow plug out. 41,000 miles. Fortunately still under warrenty.
Glow plugs fail when they fail. There is no time frame as to when they fail although age, electrical system health, and mileage are factors. In my first diesel, I replaced all four glow plugs every other year or 25K miles as at least one of them invariably would fail. Fortunately, they were easy to access and cost about $11 each.
I have had a 1992 Dodge diesel Pick-up since 8/91. I have never had a glow plug go out.
Are these just junk plugs in the CRD or have I just been lucky?
My Transgo kit should arrive this week, going to send the computer in for the Green Diesel as soon as they return from vacation. I have ordered my ARB Bully Bar Front Bumper, takes a Month to get here from Australia.
My CRD, has 70k miles on it, I intend to keep it for at least 10 years and got it at a great price. I am going to trick it out ASAP and enjoy the benefits for as long as I can.,
Bob
The engine controller tests the glow plugs for internal resistance and if that starts to breakdown then the CEL comes on Each glow plug throws it's own code so diagnosis is easy, replacement interesting. If you wait for the plug to fail totally and the plugs are wired in series, then starting when cold will be a problem because none of the plugs will work.
The glow plugs like the rest of the injection system is Bosch.
Thanks: Bob
http://www.laboutiquedutracteur.com/start-pilote-300ml-pi-671.html
This is a spray that smells like ether. You spray the air filter element and can start a cold engine like if it was warm
If you look at the oil dipstick, you should find a coiled wire with a plug on it. This is the block heater so that might help in cooler weather. I live just outside of Washington DC and if the temp is going to be below 20 F, I will plug my CRD in. I have started my CRD at 9F not plugged in and it did fine but it is easier on the engine if it is plugged in.
Also, make sure the battery is in good shape. You do not need to purchase the Optima type battery as a replacement. I got a Dekka group 34 with 875 amps at 0F! I wanted more power, but nothing was available that would fit.
For what it's worth
It got dangerous when they came out with glow plugs as they were actually in the intake heating up the air, then using ether could be explosive.... I would not use ether on a modern diesel.
Not an unusual problem.
My Optima battery went bad without prior warning and put together with an automatic transmission this means you can't get a 'push' to restart your engine. Flat plate batteries usually show signs of weakness at the end of their lives and give you time to react. I bought a local make (Varta) also owned by Johnson Controls and sold for the price you mention:
http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/publish/us/en/products/power_solutions.html
My new battery is longer than the Optima so I had to saw off the two unused fixation grips. So far so good
I bought a used lify pump and fuel sending unit from a 2005 Dodge 2500 Cummings truck.( $100 delivered). I had to cut off the tab on the top (just used wire cutters) for it to fit in My CRD and I changed the float from the unit I took out to the one I was putting it. I also needed a 4 wire plug instead of the 2 wire existing plug (Plugs were the same just the original was missing the 2 wires for the pump). I took the plug from the inside of the old unit, took it apart and removed the 2 connectors from it and added them to my Jeeps wiring plug wiht 2 wired sopldered onto them. This gave me the 4 wire plug I needed. The Jeep is already wired for a lift pump, you just have to locate the wire under the drivers side,passanger carpet. Simple to tap into. Since I had to drop the tank anyway, I also decided to add a Sedimentator, which I located on the drivers side next to the fuel tank. What a sedimentator does is acts like a pre-filter (without an element) which catches water and debris prior to the main filter. Is is easy to drain and rarely needs to be taken apart for cleaning. It lengthens the time between main filter changes. I also intend to go with a finer grade main filter, to filter out smaller particles.
Bob
I did put notes in my log book from that posting, here they are:
1. Remove water sensor connector from bottom of filter.
2. Disconnect 2 topside Connectors.
a. Temp sensor = blue wire.
b. Heater = Red wire.
3. Loosen clamp on Fuel output line (Drivers side) out of top. Remove hose.
4. Remove filter.
5. Remove water sensor from bottom of old filter and install it onto the new filter.
6. Install new gaskets.
Install new filter (hand tight)
Install hose and electrical connections
7. Loosten air bleeder screw 1 or 2 turns (passanger side top).
8. push pirmer until fuel comes out.
That should do it! best ofluck: Bob
Any thoughts?
If a vapor lock is the cause of the symptom you describe, by removing the front grill of the vehicle you should observe a non linear temperature gradient along the height of the radiator. You must always have a continuous temperature gradient from top to bottom.
When driving a 1/4 mile you cool the radiator and this sometimes helps to re establish the flow of coolant by gravity typically when the coolant pump is broken.
If part of your coolant is lost, cabin heating should not be stable.
Has anyone else experienced this symptom and is it the first sign of TC problems?
Also, I have searched for TC recalls from Chrysler-Jeep and can find no mention of a F37 recall for torque converters.
Any advice would be appreciated.
2005 Liberty CRD
Hans
Sounds like the Torque converter is bad. These are fantastic vehicles once set up correctly. The engine has too much torque for the stock convertor. Sooner or later, (if we drive hard or tow), we will have to up-grade to a stronger convertor. This is not cheap, and all torque convertors are not equal. The Suncoast is suppose to be one of the best, but can cost $800. There are decent ones in the $400 to $500 range that will work for 99% of us.
There is also a Transgo shift kit, that runs around $50 and is not hard for the average backyard mechanic to install. It gets rid of shift lag.
Go to the LostJeep Forum and start reading about your CRD from actual owners. Some of these guys are light years ahead of the dealer techs.
Best of luck: Bob
to move. Pump has to pressurize...... Then when I back out the converter locks up in reverse and will stall the motor. I had one heck of a time restarting one time so I have learned that when it is going to happen I just shift into netural and back into reverse and everything works fine after that. Also have it lock up when I first put it into drive
but its downhill and I can hear the motor almost stall and then I hear
a metalic clunk/ting and it releases. Again only on startup and then
runs fine all day long. Get use to reacting and going to netural or you might find youself into a wall or something at some point.
A second question would be has anyone hooked up trailer brakes? If so, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks again everyone. Jim (gymb2)
Do you know what was done within the F-37 that resolved the drain back?
I have taken to letting it warm up as you have suggested before I put it in gear and it is ready to drive. Thanks for the info.
From what I gather with the F37 recall, they replaced the Torque convertor with another junky one, just buying time to get out from under the warrenty. In some cases they also replaced the pump.
You might try a Transgo shift kit, they run about $50 and are pretty easy to install. You have to drop the transmission pan and it can be a bit messy, but I had no problems doing it and I never worked on an Automatic Transmission before.
It gives you a much more positive shift
Bob